When I was growing up, I knew I
was lucky to have a mom who was, in addition to being a fine cook, a terrific
baker. Cakes, cupcakes, pies, cobbles, cookies, squares, bread, biscuits – all seemed
to flow effortlessly from her oven. Much later, I learned there is no such
thing as effortless baking… or is there?
In searching for a dessert recipe
to pair with a bottle of Vin Cuit from Mas de Cadenet (“cooked wine” – a very special dessert wine), in Trets, France, just
south of Mont Saint Victoire, I decided to seek out something Provençal.
I started by looking at my friend
Susan’s blog, The Modern Trobadors. I recall her sharing a story about the
traditional Treize Désserts de Noël (thirteen Christmas desserts) served in Provence during the
holiday season. The list from which to choose is much longer than thirteen,
and begins with the “four beggars” (les quatre mendiants), representing
the four mendicant monastic orders: Dominicans (raisins), Franciscans (figs), Augustinian
(hazelnuts), and Carmelites (almonds). You may recall that my Mendiant Tart was based on the four beggars. Basically, you can make anything
using any one these four and it counts towards your thirteen.
Perusing the list beyond the four beggars, the dessert that appealed to me most was pain d’épices –
a spice and honey cake/bread. I made Julia Child’s version last weekend; it was
the first and only time that Julia has disappointed me. The cake was pretty
awful, and lifting it will probably give our trash collector a hernia.
Susan once made us different dessert
from her list, Provençal croquants (also called croquets). They are a hard cookie, similar to Italian biscotti. Her recipe came from
Patricia Wells but, as usual, I thought I would look a little further for other
versions. I found a video of chef Eric Leautey making a very different and much
simpler preparation, flavored with orange blossom water, which Mark and I both love.
When watching the video, my French
comprehension surprised me, as I understood every word. I found the simplicity
of this recipe to be just what I was looking for, and it answered my question:
Is there really effortless baking? Yes – and this recipe is it. Okay, while I made it a little more complicated by blanching, peeling, and grinding my own almond flour, you can buy pre-ground almond
flour (also called almond meal) in most grocery stores.
My mother never lavished
thirteen desserts upon us at any one holiday, although she did make us incredible pies,
cakes, cobblers, and cookies to our great enjoyment. While I don’t think she ever had an Italian biscotto or it’s French sibling, the croquant, I do
think she would have loved to dip one of these in her morning coffee. I
personally know they are good with cocoa, and you should pop over to the
Provence WineZine to see how they paired with the wine.
I wish you a peaceful and love-filled start to the holiday season, and I am ever grateful that you take the time to visit Cocoa
& Lavender.
Croquants – Croquets
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Jill
December 3, 2016 at 3:29 pmAdding to my list of cookies to bake with Veronica and Jack this year!! xoxo
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2016 at 1:29 pmJill – They will be perfect for Jack to teeth on!
Bizzy Lizzy's Good Things
December 4, 2016 at 6:07 amDavid, this sounds exquisite, truly exquisite. Thank you for sharing such lovely recipes on your fine blog xx
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2016 at 1:29 pmThanks Liz – much appreciated!
Chef Mimi
December 4, 2016 at 1:36 pmAbsolutely gorgeous. I'm glad I don't have any around because I'd eat them all, dunked in my espresso.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2016 at 1:30 pmThey make great gifts, Mimi! And I put a lot of the away in a cookie jar so they aren't right in front of me all the time!
Cheri Savory Spoon
December 4, 2016 at 2:08 pmMorning David, baking does not come easy to me but still I shoulder on. I love how the kitchen smells when doing so. Would love to have some of these beauties to dunk in my morning tea.
Beautiful weather we are having. BTW email is fixed. Take care!!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2016 at 1:31 pmCheri – These are pretty fool-proof in the baking realm. And the result is just so nice.
Glad you email got fixed – that was odd! Sorry I won't see you this time in PHX, but soon!
Caroline @ Pinch Me, I'm Eating!
December 6, 2016 at 3:16 amYou would blanch, peel, and grind your own almond flour! These look delicious. I've never used orange blossom water but it sounds right up my alley. Where do you get it? I love a good biscotti with my coffee or tea!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2016 at 1:33 pmWell, Caroline, it isn't hard – and the only ground almonds I could easily find were either REALLY expensive, or not skinned. SO I did it myself! I get orange blossom water at Middle Eastern shops, and some gourmet shops. Someone recommended liquor stores, as it is used in a lit of cocktails!
Colette (Coco)
December 7, 2016 at 12:26 amYou are so cosmopolitan, David.
What lovely biscuits. I can't wait to taste them. xo
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2016 at 1:48 pmYou will love them with your coffee, Colette! xo
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
December 7, 2016 at 1:32 pmIsn't it disappointing when a hoped for recipe fails? And with baking (unlike something like a soup) there is no saving it! Glad you found an alternative. I used to bake biscotti a lot–should get back to it!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2016 at 1:49 pmInger – there was nothing – not even a thick layer of butter – that could save that pain d'épices! I never thought about it that way, but baked items are harder to "save!"
Jill @ Teatime in Paris
December 7, 2016 at 3:24 pmLoved this post, David. You crack me up with that comment about the trash collector! Too funny. Your croquants look just spot on – they remind me of what we have in Corsica at my parents-in-law, except I prefer yours (shh, please don't tell them). Enjoy the festive season and especially your trip to Paris, David! Can't believe I'll miss you as we're in Corsica with the extended family this year.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2016 at 1:51 pmThanks, Jill – having never baked them before, I am thrilled to know they look good, and I won't say a word to your in-laws! As for the trash man – he seems okay, nut I am definitely expecting an added cost for the weight of the bag this week… 🙂
We are so sorry to miss you this time around – but I know you will be having a wonderful time in Corsica!
ChgoJohn
December 8, 2016 at 3:42 pmOf the 2 sisters, Mom baked more than did Zia but that still wasn't a great deal. Both did make biscotti, however, with 1 type intended for milk and the other with the adults' coffee. Each sister made a batch and then they traded half. I know these croquant would have been very much welcomed. I certainly would love them. Any baked good with almond flavoring is aces in my book. Thanks for sharing, David, and I hope you and Mark share a wonderful holiday season.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2016 at 1:53 pmThanks, John – we wish you a wonderful Christmas, too! I hope you try these – they are a bit different from the biscotti/cantuccini we got in Italy. The orange blossom water really makes a difference!
John | heneedsfood
December 10, 2016 at 11:53 amThe orange blossom water would truly make these little darlings shine. Such a lovely thing to nibble on while sipping the vino.
And what a shame about the Julia Child recipe. Nobody likes to eat a rock!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 15, 2016 at 1:59 pmIt does, John – I thought all the flavor would cook out but it is nice and clear and strong.
Marcelle
December 11, 2016 at 5:48 pmDavid, these cookies would be perfect to serve on a Christmas Eve table of goodies. So elegant and delicious-sounding. Now, I have to track down some some orange blossom water! 🙂 Beautiful food!!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 15, 2016 at 2:00 pmLet em know if you have trouble finding the orange blossom water, Marcelle – it is worth having, and would be great as a flavoring in your cookie icing!
Provence WineZine
December 13, 2016 at 3:34 amOh, I love this post! I am making these croquants this year! Between watching the video and reading your directions, they don't look too challenging but they do look very good!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 15, 2016 at 2:01 pmThey are the easiest I have made, Susan!
Agness
December 15, 2016 at 2:27 amThat's a perfect recipe for me because … I'm a big almond lover!!! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
December 15, 2016 at 2:01 pmI love almonds, too, Agness – glad you like the post!