A Quince By Any Other Name.
Long ago and far away (well… Portsmouth, New Hampshire, in the 1990s), Mark and I frequented a very elegant Spanish tapas restaurant called Ciento. We enjoyed a variety of wonderful small plates, one of our favorites being the plate of aged Manchego cheese served with a fruit paste we had never encountered: membrillo.
In Spanish, the work membrillo is used for both the fruit (quince) and the paste made from the fruit. Little did we know then, that it would also be a tradition in our future home in the Sonoran Desert. And, here, you find quince paste called membrillo, cajeta de membrillo, or dulce de membrillo. No matter what its name, it’s delicious.
In Tucson, we find quince at our farmers market and in some local grocery stores. We buy the tidy blocks of homemade membrillo for sale at festivals, and from street vendors in Sonora, México. Once, when touring the missions in Sonora founded by Father Kino, we had the opportunity to meet a woman — almost 100 years old — who made a cauldron’s-worth of membrillo in her back garden. We bought several blocks to bring home; hers was fantastic but the memory of her stirring the cauldron and ladling it into molds is a treasure.
Making membrillo is as simple as making jam, though it cooks a bit longer. Like jam, you need to make sure it will set; unlike jam, it is not a spread on toast; it must be dense enough to slice for serving. My recipe is a combination of many, including the one from the class I attended at the Mission Garden, one of the gems of Tucson. The Mission Garden an historic recreation on the site of the city’s original mission, in which the space is used to demonstrate the many kinds of gardens that have existed in Tucson, including those of prehistoric Native Peoples, O’Odham, Spanish, Mexican, Anglos, Chinese and African-American residents.
~ David
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FEL!X
October 19, 2024 at 5:27 amHow I love quinces!
Whenever I can get some (brong from EU by friends!) I use them for several dishes – but before all: as a yelly / jam wich my mother always prepared…
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 7:24 amI also love quince jelly or jam, Felix — but membrillo is my favorite. Sorry it’s not possible to find then there!
Yvonne
October 19, 2024 at 11:13 amThank you for the reminder of the sweet perfume scent of cooking quince! I once had a tree at home in British Columbia (Salt Spring Island) and made quince jelly with the fruit. I used a jelly bag and the result was a gorgeous sparkling red, almost translucent, fragile textured spread.
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 9:19 pmThanks, Yvonne — I’m glad this brought back fond memories. I’ll need to try quince jelly again.
Mimi Rippee
October 19, 2024 at 6:43 amAhhhh. Isn’t it so nice to have a best friend for so many years and look back on great dining experiences?! We’ve been together 42 years. We were just talking about being in Spain and having manchego with rosemary inside. Not coating the cheese. And drizzled with olive oil. Served with Iberico ham. But I digress. Beautiful membrillo.
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 7:26 amCongratulations! We are about to hit 30 years, which is so hard to believe! Oh, that rosemary-studded Manchego sounds wonderful!
Mad Dog
October 19, 2024 at 6:47 amThat looks perfect and I love those tiles!
There is also a Mermelada de Membrillo and the Portuguese word for quince is marmelo – marmalade was originally made with quince.
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 7:28 amGreat to know the Portuguese version, Mad Dog! The “tiles” — while they might look Spanish or Portuguese — is actually a Sicilian tablecloth!
Mad Dog
October 19, 2024 at 8:58 amAmazing!
Carolyne
October 19, 2024 at 7:04 amOne of my favourite combinations – membrillo and manchego!
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 7:28 amTruly a perfect combination, Carolyne!
Barb
October 19, 2024 at 7:31 amSounds like a lovely combination, I like foods that bring back wonderful memories. Beautiful presentation, as always!
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 8:31 amThanks, Barb — it is delicious. I hope you can try it someday.
Ronit Penso
October 19, 2024 at 9:35 amMouthwatering! Coming from a Sephardic family, Membrillo, both fruit and paste, is an essential part of the cuisine. I’m eagerly waiting to find some nice fresh quince and start cooking with them. 🙂
David Scott Allen
October 19, 2024 at 9:18 pmIt’s such a wonderful fruit — so versatile.
sherry
October 19, 2024 at 10:32 pmgood on you for all that hard work! Jams and fruit pastes take a bit of diligence :=) but worth it of course.
cheers
sherry