Quintessential Memories.

Food memories last. A long time, for me. Back in 1983, an old diner in Albany, NY, was repurposed to become a trendy eatery called Quintessence. It catered to the young, which I was. The signature dish of chef Donnie Graham was his Chicken Teriyaki: chicken breast wrapped around a carrot and scallion then grilled and served with a green salad and a spinach pasta with a sauce akin to Italian dressing. It was really good and, for $3.95, it was affordable for this young bass player who was pulling in $3,500/year. (No — I’m not missing any zeroes;  musicians were/are poor!)

Forty-some years later, I decided to take the dish a step further. I use locally-sourced duck from Top Knot Farms, and served it with fresh and spicy mustard greens (thanks, Nessa!), and soba noodles with shiitake mushrooms from Desert Pearl Mushrooms. The overall result is just fantastic and a fitting homage to the original. 

The teriyaki sauce is simple to make, though it took me several tries to get the balance of flavors right. The difficulty is making the zig-zag cut of the duck breast to form one long piece to wrap around the veggie spears. The wrapping itself takes a little practice, too; patience and a toothpick or two help. No duck? Make it with chicken. It will be awesome. Have fun with this one! 

I paired the Duck Teriyaki with a 2023 Tavel from Château de Ségriès. You can read more about the pairing on the Provence WineZine.

~ David

9 Comments

  1. Mimi Rippee

    February 1, 2025 at 7:14 am

    Another masterpiece!!! You should frame that feature photo!

    Reply
  2. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food A Well-Traveled Tavel - Provence WineZine

    February 1, 2025 at 7:37 am

    […] pairing was a bit tricky. At first glance, my Duck Teriyaki recipe looks like an easy shot. Many rosés pair perfectly with Asian cuisine and that is what I […]

    Reply
  3. Mad Dog

    February 1, 2025 at 7:47 am

    That looks amazing and far more exciting than chicken!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 1, 2025 at 8:34 am

      Definitely so, Mad Dog! I am a huge fan of duck — such great flavor and texture. And it is great that we have a local source here. You are lucky you have such amazing markets there.

      Reply
  4. Gerlinde de Broekert

    February 1, 2025 at 8:45 am

    I love duck and this recipe looks incredible. You are such a creative cook David.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 1, 2025 at 8:58 am

      Aw, thanks, Gerlinde — I must credit the idea to the original chef. But it was a lot of fun to redesign the original! And I love duck, too.

      Reply
  5. Barb

    February 1, 2025 at 9:08 am

    This is quite an intriguing dish! I really like to create recipes based on old memories of food from long ago. I think Chef Donnie would approve of your version!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 1, 2025 at 9:55 am

      Thanks, Barb — I hope he likes the idea. I should have noted that my teriyaki glaze is much stronger than his, but I liked how it lacquered the duck. And the soba noodles on the side? That was a big surprise for me — loved them.

      Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.