It’s
Tuesday night. Dad’s on a business trip. Mom has four energetic boys chomping
at the bit for dinner. Out comes the canned tuna, a bag of noodles, a can of
cream-of-something soup, and my worst nightmare – tuna noodle casserole.
Okay,
tuna noodle casserole wasn’t really all that bad. In fact, I rather liked it.
But because of that casserole, canned tuna has a bad reputation as being the
last thing between you and starvation.
Here, in
our house, we used high-quality canned tuna quite often. One of our favorite
dishes is pasta with tuna, lemon, and capers. Simple. Tasty. Fast.
Another
favorite way we use it is in hors d’œuvres. When we were in Venice we had it puréed on crostini and dusted with
cocoa powder, and we have made a riff on salmon rilettes using tuna. Both of
these preparations started with canned tuna.
And, of
course, we use canned tuna in our Salade Niçoise. Nowadays, everybody is
trying to make their Niçoise salads fancier by serving them with grilled tuna. I
prefer the traditional method using the best quality canned tuna.
To us,
the secret to our culinary success with these dishes has been using tuna packed in olive oil.
I’m not
in the mood to research different canned tunas, so here are my anecdotal thoughts: Tuna canned in water generally tastes fishier to me. And it feels mushier on my
tongue; it has almost no texture. I’m not really a fan. Certain companies are now canning their
tuna in oil, but not necessarily in olive oil. Sorry; still not convinced,
although it is a step in the right direction.
Tuna
packed (either in a can or glass jar) in olive oil, with no additive but a bit
of salt, has great flavor and texture. My feeling – remember, I didn’t feel like
spending my day on research when the are desert wildflowers to be seen – is
that, perhaps, packing it in water breaks down the muscle fibers of the fish.
I
generally buy Genova brand tuna packed in olive oil from San Diego(this is not a sponsored post), because
it is the most widely-available brand locally. But, I also keep my eyes open when
in Italian import stores for other brands direct from Italy. The quality is
definitely better.
Today, I
am making perhaps the fanciest dish for which I use canned tuna. It is a recipe
(with my edits) from Food & Wine this holiday season. It is
creamy and smooth – it is Pâté au Thon.
I found
this pâté to be an elegant dish to go
with a bottle of Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape sent to me by Susan at the Provence
WineZine for pairing notes. (Click here to see the pairing notes.) Normally, I would think that a white wine is not a
sit-in-front-of-the-fire kind of wine, but this one is different. It is so
full-bodied, unctuous, and comforting that it lovely in the winter as well as
in summer. And I am sitting in front of the fire enjoying it right now with the pâté – a far
cry from that tuna noodle casserole ’round the kitchen table.
Pâté au Thon
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Jill
March 7, 2015 at 2:55 pmLooks and sounds delicious. Great to take to a party. How long do you think it would stay in the fridge so I could make ahead or if there were leftovers?
Cocoa & Lavender
March 7, 2015 at 3:15 pmI have made it several times now, and find it lasts about a week in the fridge. Yes, Jill, it is perfect party fare!
Jill Becker
June 15, 2022 at 8:20 pmThis Jill will try this in the new kitchen soon for sure.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 16, 2022 at 7:42 amYou must be getting excited about the new house! This recipe will be a nice easy way to christen your move!
Sippity Sup
March 7, 2015 at 4:50 pmThe richness that makes white papes so elegant comes from the relatively quick ripening of the grapes. Both the climate and the stoney soil are quite a bit warmer than other French wine growing regions (allowing the grapes to mature quickly). Ken just told me that. He's taking a French wine class at UCLA this semester! GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
March 7, 2015 at 6:51 pmHave you had this wine, Greg? If you haven't, you should get a bottle. Thanks for the info – how nice to have Ken at your fingertips for moments like this. I feel the same way about Mark.
Unknown
March 8, 2015 at 5:21 amThat just looks so rich & elegant! I agree – tuna packed in Olive Oil is the best. One thing I learned to love in Italy is tuna sandwiches with marinated artichokes.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:08 pmTuna and artichokes sounds wonderful! I have never had it, but that will be remedied soon! Thanks, Susan!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
March 8, 2015 at 11:34 amHow could you not like tuna with so much butter and cream. 🙂 The lovely presentation makes it perfect party food.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:09 pmHonestly, Karen, I was hoping no one would notice all that butter! 🙂 It is a great party food!
Chef Mimi
March 8, 2015 at 1:59 pmBeautiful. I have purchased tuna belly before, in a can, I think from IGourmet.com, and it was fabulous. There are differently different qualities. And by the way, I'm so glad I wasn't raised on tuna noodle casserole!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:10 pmI have to check out iGourmet. Thanks for the heads up, Mimi!
Unknown
March 8, 2015 at 3:55 pmI agree! Tuna in water is nasty, and I was never a fan. Until, the olive oil packed ones, they are really good. I didn't see a photo of your tuna can, but I like the Genovo brand too…it must be the same one. I can't find it here anymore 🙁 so I've been trying to find another brand I like.
Thankfully, we never had tuna casserole growing up, and I made it once myself for the kids. They are not fans. But the worst thing, I cut my finger on the stupid can when I was making the casserole and cut it so deeply I thought I needed stitches. I survived not going to the hospital but have a scar on my thumb to tell me to never ever think of making tuna casserole again.
Anyway, enough of tuna horror stories 🙂
This does look wonderful. I think I might like this, and if you used great tuna, then I know it will taste fab. Tuna is one product that really has to be good to taste good. I just don't know how people buy that dubious cheap tuna in a can!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:13 pmNazneen – our Albertsons market just started carrying the Genova brand. I am sure it is the same one you have been using – do you have Alberstons there? Or Kroger? I always try to remember the adage, "You are what you eat." I do NOT want to be cheap tuna! 🙂
Cathleen | My Culinary Mission
March 8, 2015 at 9:12 pmI used to love tuna noodle casserole! I think my mom may have put in frozen peas as well, or maybe that was creamed tuna on toast? Either way, recall liking them both. This looks wonderful, David! I'll have to remember this one for our next girls night. Always looking for a good white wine also – will research this one. Hope you are enjoying what is left of the weekend!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:14 pmCathleen – you are reminding me that my mother made cream salmon and peas to serve over noodles, toast, or potatoes. I loved that as a kid. The white wine was wonderful – but definitely special occasion!!
Lizzy (Good Things)
March 8, 2015 at 9:44 pmMy mother never ever served tuna… I think the first time I ate it was in home ec class in the 70s… in a mornay! Love the sound of this elegant dish, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:15 pmTuna in mornay? Sounds like you had some interesting Home Ec classes, Liz!
Valentina
March 9, 2015 at 6:04 amI'm definitely trying this, David. My husband loves tuna and he'll love seeing it in a new preparation. Can't wait. Love how it's garnished, too.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:16 pmThanks – I thought it was worth garnishing so it didn't look like a slab of nothing! xo
Anonymous
March 9, 2015 at 2:04 pmThis Pate of tuna must taste oh so delicious with cayenne,lemon juice,zest,sweet paprika and parsley…yum,creamy and perfect for a snack time to remember…we have been hearing from our fish eating friends this very thing…oil canned tuna tastes better and somewhat less fishy than that with water…if we get to find it in store…will be making this beautiful dish for them,thanks so much for inspiring with such beautiful,quick and delectable dishes…Have A Beautiful Day! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:17 pmThanks, Swikruti and Rakesh! It will make a very nice dish to serve your friends who do eat fish! Have a wonderful week!
Cheri Savory Spoon
March 9, 2015 at 2:36 pmVery impressive David, love how it's garnished. I agree with you… I like the texture of tuna in oil so much better. Have a great week!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 9, 2015 at 2:43 pmThanks, Cheri – don't you think garnishing makes a big difference in many dishes? Have a great week, too… gorgeous weather ahead!
Nuts about food
March 10, 2015 at 8:44 amI love canned tuna, but then again some of the best canned tuna in olive oil is fished and canned right here, so I guess we have a wide choice. I totally agree, I dislike tuna canned in water, but as you pointed out, it is important to buy the best quality available, as the oil in cheaper brands truly tastes like engine oil. A while back I made (and posted) a delicious sardine paté but I have yet to try this. Anything tuna in our house is a favorite.
P.S. I also totally agree about the Nicoise!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 12, 2015 at 2:04 pmI love the idea of your sardine pâté, Fiona. I will check it out! I am glad I am not alone in my love of Italian tuna packed in olive oil! Maybe it's what we will have for dinner tonight!
dedy oktavianus
March 10, 2015 at 6:12 pmSimply damn delicious !!!
nice tuna pate…
Dedy@Dentist Chef
Cocoa & Lavender
March 12, 2015 at 2:04 pmThanks, Dedy!
john | heneedsfood
March 12, 2015 at 11:04 amI'm with Lizzy. I think the first time I had tuna was in a mornay, as well. Probably not the best one, either.
Your pate looks and sounds divine, especial with those glorious anchovies!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 12, 2015 at 2:05 pmJohn – from your comment, I am not sure I should run out and try tuna in mornay sauce…
And, as we have discussed, anything with anchovies makes me really happy. Like your spaghetti!
Anonymous
March 16, 2015 at 1:04 amYum! This sounds good. I also survived a tuna-heavy childhood (tuna and pasta bake, which sounds similar to your noodle casserole!) so it's not my favourite, but I'd forgotten how much I like tuna pate. I'm always looking for new ideas for T's lunchbox too, and he is a bag fish fan, so I might see if he'll go for this.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 17, 2015 at 3:06 pmWow, Ruth – Tim is a lucky boy if he gets tuna pâté in his lunchbox! Save some for you and Young!
Anonymous
March 16, 2015 at 4:01 amHahahaa…! Yes, my mother made the same thing! As John and Lizzy said, we call it 'tuna mornay' here in Australia (but it's basically a tuna casserole with pasta) and I am pretty sure that most school children were tortured by it at some point of their childhood! This is a much prettier way to use quality tuna 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
March 17, 2015 at 3:07 pmMaybe I ought to give Tuna Mornay a try, Laura! Glad yo like the pâté recipe!
Andrea_TheKitchenLioness
March 16, 2015 at 8:15 pmDavid, no horror tuna story in my childhood – we never ate tuna, ever – so I have quite an open mind. Your Pâté au Thon looks elegant and like a perfect dish to share with family and friends, with some lovely crackers, some grapes maybe…
A nice recipe – thanks for sharing all your lovely pictures and stories and recipes!
Andrea
Cocoa & Lavender
March 17, 2015 at 3:08 pmYou are most welcome, Andrea! This is a nice dish, and grapes would, indeed, be a nice accompaniment!
Provence WineZine
March 20, 2015 at 12:10 amDavid ~ This Pâté is definitely on my short list AND I think it sounds perfect for a rosé tasting we are hoping to have soon! I am so glad that you loved the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, too, and I want to try it with that wine, too! Oh, so many food and wine combinations to try….sigh…will I live long enough?!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 20, 2015 at 3:20 pmThis pâté even tasted good with the Italian red we had last week, Susan. Looking forward to the new rosés!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
March 21, 2015 at 4:06 pmTotally agree about Italian tuna! So much better than most tuna we can find in the US.
It's so funny that you started out with the Tuna Noodle Casserole horror story. When I was first married, I usually cooked what I knew how to cook and what I'd learned at home, which was mostly Italian and also British. One day, I decided to delve into American cuisine (which I'd honestly never done before) and figured my new husband would like something that his mother would have always made: Tuna Noodle Casserole.
OMG.
Let's suffice it to say that my husband asked me never to make it again. And I never have (25 years later)!
Your pâté sounds wonderful, especially paired with the wine. I'll have to remember it for our next cocktail party, whenever that may be.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 23, 2015 at 2:02 pmGood for your husband telling you "no more" to the casserole. I think you will like the pâté – it actually is just nice to have around for snacking during the week!
Little Fish. Big Flavor. – Cocoa & Lavender
May 30, 2022 at 10:46 am[…] month and, again, are a nice source of umami. They also make an appearance in my Salsa Verde and Tuna Pâté. A few anchovies is all it […]