If I were to
tell you I miss New England winters, you would think I had completely lost my
mind, or you would know I was lying.

The bitter,
cold, dark, relentless winters were the biggest reason Mark and I moved to the
Southwest.

Days and
weeks – nay, months! – of snow, sleet, wind and bone-chilling rains weren’t my
thing any longer. (True, there was a time I found it invigorating. What was I
thinking?)

I do miss
our friends every day. I also miss some very specific things: the sweet, tender
lobsters that were available fresh from the sea, and the intoxicating fragrance
of the lilacs hanging in the soft air of late May. Of course, those weren’t
part of winter were they?

Foodwise, I
miss the need for comfort food. Here, in Tucson, the season for rich soups,
stews and slow-roasted meats lasts but a few weeks. Sometimes, it is only a few
days here and there.

It is said
that President Nixon turned on his air-conditioning even in summer so he could
light a fire in the fireplace (while listening to Mantovani, of course); I
haven’t gotten that needy yet, but it has crossed my mind.

After
spending most of my life in areas that were just this side of arctic, I have
amassed quite the collection of comfort food recipes, many of which came from
my mother.

While at the
farmers market last weekend, under a clear blue sky with temperatures hovering
around 70°F (21°C), I saw a butternut squash and had a pang of nostalgia for my
mother’s Autumn Harvest Bisque.

I pretty
much knew the ingredient list by heart – some things you just don’t forget. A
few ingredients weren’t available, and I wasn’t in the mood to run from one
grocer to another. I got what I could, and decided to make the recipe my own.

My impromptu
version is much less caloric than my mother’s, and oddly creamier without using
cream (as she did). Yes, there is still a decent amount of butter involved in a
large batch, but that comes to only about a half tablespoon per serving.

All in all,
this is a very healthy soup – and a hearty one. And comforting. I think Mom
would approve.

~ David

Butternut
Squash and Apple Bisque


1 medium
butternut squash – about 1 1/2 pounds
cooking
spray
6
tablespoons butter, divided
1 large
white onion, chopped
2 leeks,
white and light green parts, halved lengthwise and sliced
2 large tart
cooking apples, cored, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 carrots,
peeled and coarsely chopped
1 small
turnip, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 cups
low-sodium chicken stock
1 sprig
fresh rosemary, chopped (about 1 tablespoon)
6 sage
leaves, chopped (about 1 teaspoon)
1/4 teaspoon
ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon
Chinese five spice powder
1/4 cup
flour
2 cups
lowfat milk (I used 1%)
salt
freshly
ground pepper

Preheat oven
to 400°F (200°C).

Cut squash
in half lengthwise; scoop out and discard seeds and stringy parts. Line a
cookie sheet with foil and spray foil with cooking spray. Place the squash
halves, cut side down, onto the foil. Roast for 45-60 minutes, until squash is
very tender when pierced with a fork or knifepoint. Let cool.

Melt 2
tablespoons of the butter in a large soup kettle over medium heat. Add chopped
onions and sliced leeks, and cook for 5-10 minutes until onions are clear and
soft. Increase heat to medium-high, and add apples, carrots and turnip. Sauté
for a minute or two, then add broth. Scoop out the flesh from the squash and
add it to the kettle. Stir well, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer
the soup for 30 minutes.

Melt
remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan. Add the rosemary, sage,
nutmeg and five spice powder; cook for 1 minute or so, or until fragrant. Add
the flour, and stir. Let cook for 2-3 minutes to remove the raw taste of the
flour. Add the milk and whisk to incorporate. Add this mixture to the soup
kettle, season well with salt and pepper, and cook for 10-15 minutes, until
thickened. Let cool 15 minutes.

Purée soup
in four batches in a blender; pour into a clean pot and reheat. Serve with a
crusty bread and salad.



Makes 10-12
servings.

31 Comments

  1. Jill

    January 31, 2015 at 3:53 pm

    This is a must try!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      January 31, 2015 at 6:55 pm

      It's nice and hearty, Jill! I think you will like it!

      Reply
  2. Andrea_TheKitchenLioness

    January 31, 2015 at 4:56 pm

    DeareDavid, there is absolutely nothing that compares with a delicious bowl of homemade comfort-style soup! Butternut happens to be my favorite squash and I love butternut squash soups.- I would adore this one, the recipe sounds delightful and the pictures speak for themselves – a soup to soothe one´s soul!
    Noch einen schönen Sonntag,
    Andrea & Co.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      January 31, 2015 at 6:56 pm

      Thanks, Andrea! We rarely get gloomy weather here but, when we do, it gives me a chance to make some comforting recipes! Hope you are warm and happy in Bonn!

      Reply
  3. john | heneedsfood

    January 31, 2015 at 8:41 pm

    I bet you're glad you're not in New England now, given the extreme weather they're having at the moment. I adore it up there and even said I could easily live there, but something tells me the winter would be very testing.

    The good old butternut is my go-to when it's soup time. I almost always have some in my fridge, providing it's available. I love cutting it up and roasting it with seasoning and a bit of balsamic glaze.

    I must try putting apple into my next batch of soup. Sounds like a winner!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      January 31, 2015 at 11:55 pm

      I am sure the winters would not be your favorite time. I love how many New Englanders convince themselves of the romance of winter but, once it comes, we hear lots of complaints and get lots of reservations for our guest room.

      I think butternut is my favorite of the squash family, and I just saw a recipe for butternut squash agrodolce that sounds similar to your recipe. Gotta try that!

      Reply
  4. Lizzy (Good Things)

    February 1, 2015 at 1:42 am

    Oh no, I think my first comment was eaten up somewhere. Oh well. Love the addition of apple in your soup… and this is a gorgeous post, David. Glad you moved away from those cold dark winters!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 1, 2015 at 6:04 am

      Thanks, Liz – both for your comment AND for posting it twice! Yes, we are really glad to be here!

      Reply
  5. Diaries of an explorer

    February 1, 2015 at 9:28 am

    Lol David the good recipes always come from the mom! 🙂 It is a knowledge that should not be wasted, but unfortunately nowadays what was trasmitted from generation to generation is going to be lost…

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 1, 2015 at 3:52 pm

      You are so right, Marco! And I think Italian people are really good about keeping traditions, but even that is changing. I have catalogued all my mothers recipes in a book, and now am doing my mother-in-law's mother's recipes so they will be around for generations.

      Reply
  6. Sippity Sup

    February 1, 2015 at 6:19 pm

    Bring on the butter, leave the snow where it belongs. GREG

    Reply
  7. Anonymous

    February 1, 2015 at 9:17 pm

    Actually I know what you mean, living in the sub tropics is great but sometimes I miss the cold…. mostly when it is so humid and hot here 🙂 That is such an interesting list of ingredients in your soup, I have never tried apple with butternut in a soup before. I will look forward to trying this when it cools down enough here to enter the kitchen 🙂

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 2, 2015 at 2:01 pm

      The nice thing about the apple, Karen, is that it isn't really overwhelming – it blends in perfectly.

      Reply
  8. Cheri Savory Spoon

    February 1, 2015 at 10:23 pm

    Hi David, I'm one of those people that can eat soup all year round, especially ones like this. love that you added Chinese five spice here, looks delicious!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 2, 2015 at 2:02 pm

      Thanks for noticing that, Cheri – I just decided to add it for a little extra zing! It worked beautifully.

      Reply
  9. Provence WineZine

    February 3, 2015 at 12:30 am

    Having made at least one of your versions of this soup, I can already attest to LOVING it…but, just to be sure, I plan to make it this week! Gorgeous photos, too!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 3, 2015 at 2:55 pm

      Susan – this soup is perfect for the weather you are having! xo

      Reply
  10. Anonymous

    February 3, 2015 at 4:29 am

    Simply damn delicious pumpkin soup!!!

    Reply
  11. Valentina

    February 4, 2015 at 8:47 am

    prettiest beet ever!

    Reply
  12. Unknown

    February 4, 2015 at 4:47 pm

    The places where you find the harshest weathers are also the places with the prettiest summers 🙂
    I don't mind the cold and love living in Colorado, and the upside of dealing with a few inches of snow is the absolute beautiful summer and autumn we have here.
    It's funny you are eating soup in warm Arizona and I've been craving salads in cold Colorado! I think I've made more salad this winter than I did all last summer!
    The soup is beautiful and definitely winter food. I'm curious, is the five spice your addition, or your mother's? I bet it tastes really good with the hearty flavour of the pumpkin. Gorgeous!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 5, 2015 at 2:14 pm

      The good news for me, Nazneen, is that I like the summers here in the desert! 🙂 So I get to be happy all year-round!

      The addition of the five spice powder is definitely mine. I am not sure if my mother even knew what it was! It works perfectly with the flavors in this soup.

      Reply
  13. Provence WineZine

    February 5, 2015 at 9:53 pm

    David, What do you recommend as a substitution for five-spice powder? It's too cold to go out again? Thank you!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 6, 2015 at 1:12 am

      Susan – you can easily approximate the flavor of the five spice powder by using pinches of cinnamon, ground anise (star anise is preferred), cloves, Szechuan pepper and ground fennel seed. Using just the fennel, cinnamon and cloves would be perfect for this soup.

      Reply
    • Provence WineZine

      February 8, 2015 at 4:43 pm

      David, We made the soup on Friday evening for a small dinner party. Rave reviews! it was delicious, soothing, and a gorgeous color. Not having the five-spice powder, as you know, I followed your advice (in part cause my spice cabinet needs replenishing)–we used cinnamon, star anise, and cloves. It was such a success–thank you!

      Reply
    • Provence WineZine

      February 8, 2015 at 4:45 pm

      One more thing–for those of you without much time…I didn't have much time before the dinner, so I baked the squash the night before and was able to quickly assemble the ingredients for the delicious soup just before the guests arrivedl

      Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 8, 2015 at 6:46 pm

      That is a great suggestion, Susan! It would also be a good idea to make a lot and freeze some for easy usage later. Glad the spice combination worked!

      Reply
  14. Unknown

    February 7, 2015 at 7:49 pm

    Great photos, always! I love butternut squash soup, too. The great thing is, you can always fly to Maine for lobster without having to live in the freezing cold weather year-round. Hmm…thinking of adding that to our list of things to do!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 8, 2015 at 6:46 pm

      That is exactly the way we look at it, too. Maine isn't that far away, and they do actually ship live lobsters here just in case…

      Reply

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