If you are British, or have lived in Great Britain, a chestnut might be an old joke – one you have heard countless times. “Did you hear the one about the …” or “A man walked into a pub and…”
For musicians, a chestnut might be a piece of music played way too many times; it has become hackneyed. The Overtures such to William Tell and The Barber of Seville come to mind, as does pretty much anything you’ve heard in a Bugs Bunny cartoon.
To a New Yorker, a chestnut might be more a scent than a thing. There are few aromas as distinct as chestnuts being roasted on the streets of the city.
As a cook, chestnuts are simply much too much work. You need to score them, boil or roast them, then peel them…. and, after all that, they are often mealy and dry. I repeat, they are much too much work.
Rather, they were too much work. Last winter, Trader Joe changed my mind. He delivered cooked, peeled, cleaned, vacuum-packed chestnuts to my grocery cart. It was a miracle. I know they were available before I found them at Trader Joe’s, but they just weren’t available where I shopped.
Upon finding them, a plethora of recipes became possibilities: creamy chestnut soup; mushroom and chestnut stuffing; mont blanc (monte bianco); and this recipe – minimally adjusted from one in La Cucina Italiana – for pork loin with chestnuts.
This recipe is amazing – a way to cook a pork loin that keeps the pork moist and gives you a gravy that includes Marsala and chestnuts. What’s not to like? Last year, after simultaneously discovering the chestnuts and this recipe, I made it three times within two weeks. We were hooked!
I think you will be, too.
~ David
Braised Pork Loin with Chestnuts
1 (2-pound) boneless pork loin roast
sea salt
2 slices salt pork, cut into 1/4-inch-thick batons (about 24)
4-6 fresh bay leaves
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/4 cups dry Marsala wine
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 cup beef broth
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup vacuum-packed chestnuts
Heat oven to 325ºF with rack in middle.
Season pork all over with salt. With a paring knife, make about 24 incisions all over pork and fill with salt pork strips. Tie loin at 1-inch intervals with string; tuck bay leaves under string on the top of the roast.
Place 1/4 cup flour on a baking sheet; roll pork in flour to coat.
Heat oil in a 5- to 7-quart Dutch oven or wide heavy pot with lid over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Brown pork on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes total. Remove from heat.
In a large saucepan, whisk together remaining 1/4 cup flour and wine over medium heat. Bring to a boil and cook, whisking often, until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Add milk, broth, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Gently simmer, whisking occasionally, until sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 5 to 7 minutes.
Transfer sauce to pan with pork and add chestnuts. Cover pan tightly with aluminum foil and lid. Roast, basting pork once halfway through, recovering with foil and lid for 1 hour.
Remove pork from oven and let rest, covered, in pan 15 minutes before serving.
Serves 6-8.
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Ahu Shahrabani
November 10, 2012 at 2:55 pmWow, I've never seen chestnuts in this way! With those bay leaves it must smell amazing. And thank god for good ole' Trader Joe's for always making our lives easier and a little more tasty 🙂
Paula @ Vintage Kitchen
November 10, 2012 at 3:13 pmMy first thought upon reading the title was the same as when I find a quince post: too much work! I can completely understand your happiness upon finding them ready-to-use. I really like them and that pork looks moist and creamy, soooo good! Wonderful recipe David!
john@heneedsfood
November 11, 2012 at 8:36 amLooks just gorgeous. I think I need to look into trying some of those imported vac-packed chestnuts next time I have the urge. It seriously is a pain in the glutes when it involves scoring and roasting. Love your recipe!
Cathy and Heather
November 12, 2012 at 2:03 amWe stopped at Trader Joe's on our way home from the Adirondacks and got three packages of their chestnuts. Can't wait to try this, once, twice and three times!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 12, 2012 at 4:12 pmAhu – I was worried your didn't have TJs in New York – glad to hear I was wrong!
Paula – even if you can't find the chestnuts in this way, I have imagined making this with walnuts, too…
John – I hope you can find the chestnuts Down Under. Have wondered if using jarred ones would work. Might have to try for science's sake…
Cathy and Heather – am on my way to TJs right now to get some to make this for dinner tonight. Also making spätzle and roasted root veggies… Hope you like it!
Magda
November 16, 2012 at 12:38 pmI love chestnuts and I'm one of the few people who don't consider them to be a hassle. I almost always buy them fresh. Vacuum-packed are great as well when you're pressed for time.
This is a stunning dish, David. You know what? This may be the dish I prepare for one of my Christmas gatherings this year!
xoxo
Cocoa & Lavender
November 16, 2012 at 2:45 pmMagda – you are definitely more patient than I! And I am sure the results are worth it, too. I agree – this dish would be beautiful for a holiday table.
Brian
February 15, 2023 at 11:56 amThis was absolutely delicious. Why am I not shoving salt pork in every meat I cook? It was so moist and tender. The sauce was incredible. I will definitely be making this again
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
October 4, 2024 at 6:47 amThis looks fabulous, David! I think this will make an appearance on our table very soon. I like how you lard the pork loin and cook it in liquid. Must come out nice and moist.
And you’re so right about chestnuts. Why are the fresh ones so often disappointing..? I’m blaming shelf life but that’s only a guess. Anyway I totally agree that in this one case prepackaged is the way to g, so much better than fresh. I usually go for the bottled ones, but I now want to try vacuum packed.
By the way, your reference to New York brought me back. That aroma of roasted chestnuts was one of the things that made autumn my favorite season…
Cocoa & Lavender
October 4, 2024 at 10:18 amThanks Frank — larding the pork makes a huge difference. You and I have discussed how hard it is to get pork with some fat!
I haven’t seen jarred chestnuts, but these from TJ are quite good. I think you will be happy. Let me know how they hold up to the jarred ones!
The aroma of roasting chestnuts — it’s so special and I thought specific to NYC. But we caught a whiff in Sicily and enjoyed a bag in Palermo.
Thanks — as always — for your kind and thoughtful comment!