Mostly, when I review books for Cocoa & Lavender, they are cookbooks. After all, this is a food blog. But I have a keen interest food and culture, so when offered the opportunity to review FoodSutra, a Memoir of the Foods of India, by Shalabh Prasad, I wrote to Prasad and said yes, knowing full well it contained no recipes.
His book is a well-researched culinaria of the many regional cuisines of India and, while Prasad notes there are certainly similarities among the many cuisines—spices used, methods of cooking, etc.—there are also significant differences that make each unique. The differences can be as obvious to the eye as are ingredients to the palate, yet invisible when they are religious or cultural.
Prasad is a wonderful writer and storyteller, and the book is fascinating. Each chapter name refers to the state or territory, and then breaks down the local dishes one by one to share the history, ingredients, and method—without them actually being recipes.
I started starting reading with the thought that I knew quite a bit about regional Indian cuisine—the pronounced differences between the south and north, east and west of the country—but learned how much more there is to know. I learned of the many differences within each of those regions brought by external influences, whether from other regions or entirely foreign influences such as the Portuguese in Goa. I finished the book realizing how little I had known. I will be rereading this book over and over because there is so much to absorb about India’s cuisines, cultures, and heritage.
Today, I am giving you a recipe inspired by what I learned from Prasad. It is not an authentic Indian dish but one of my own devise. I hope you enjoy it. It contains two ingredients which might be new to you – hing (asafoetida) and amchoor (amchur, amchar) powder. The former is a powder ground from a sap/resin (and has a very pungent odor); just a pinch added makes for great flavor. The latter is mango powder which simultaneously adds acidity and sweetness to a dish.
We had to enjoy it three times because I needed better photos. (Poor Markipedia.) The shrimp seasoning is from southern influences and the cucumber soup is inspired by the combination of a traditional raita and Mark’s cucumber soup.
~ David
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Fran @ G'day Souffle'
September 19, 2020 at 7:15 amThis looks like it would be a good book for me since I’m not familiar with the different regions of Indian food. Mango powder and hing would be new ingredients for me and I’m sure they could certainly enhance my cooking! BTW, I know what you mean by having to make 2-3 batches of a dish in order to get some good photos. Especially frustrating when you have to do-over more complicated dishes several times (and even more frustrating when the background poster boards fall over onto the food and ruin your presentation)!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 19, 2020 at 11:06 amThe mango powder is a fantastic ingredient for adding brightness or a slight tartness. I love it. Hing is from the sap of a tree and is used to give and onion-garlic flavor to things, and is used especially in communities where onion and garlic are not eaten for religious reasons. A little pinch goes a long way!
I have to admit that some of the not-so-stellar photos on C&L are because I just needed to get the thing posted! No time for extra makings and photo shoots.
Ann Marsh
September 20, 2020 at 4:54 pmDavid…where do you buy the mango powder???
Cocoa & Lavender
September 20, 2020 at 6:24 pmHi Ann – Yo can get it at the India Dukaan on Campbell just south of Glenn on the east side, or at Lee Lee Market at Orange Grove and La Cholla. If you haven’t been to Lee Lee, it is a really fun place to shop for international ingredients!
Gerlinde
September 19, 2020 at 8:06 amI am still harvesting cucumbers from my garden and I think I will make the soup once I get some buttermilk. Indian food is something that I am not familiar with.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 19, 2020 at 11:07 amThe soup alone is quite delicious but I highly recommend looking into Indian cuisine, Gerlinde – just wonderful flavors!
John / Kitchen Riffs
September 19, 2020 at 8:55 amI love Indian food! And even though I cook it often and have read extensively about it, I really know nothing about it. The differences from region to region (and within households in regions) are so vast. Sounds like an interesting book. And this sounds like a terrific soup! Good flavors, and not overly spiced (although I really like overspiced dishes, I know most people don’t). Good stuff — thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 19, 2020 at 11:09 amWhen people ask me what my favorite cuisines are, I always say Italian and Indian – and they could not be more different. I love one for its simplicity, and the other for the complicated flavors that sometimes number 30 per dish! John, if you use cayenne for the chile, this is actually quite spicy. I did a full teaspoon when I first created it and it was a little too much for the shrimp.
Rahul
September 19, 2020 at 5:08 pmBeing from coastal region, I love sea food and shrimp is my favorite. Loved the masala shrimp recipe, looks and sound so delicious. I am gonna try the cucumber soup
Cocoa & Lavender
September 20, 2020 at 6:50 amThanks, Rahul. Fish and seafood dishes are some of my favorites, but they aren’t mainstream here in the US. I hope you enjoy the soup.
Eha Carr
September 19, 2020 at 6:22 pmThank you for both the book title and description and the great recipe. I have been interested in the food of the Indian sub-continent since my late teens and this volume sounds perfect to fill in the very many gaps in my knowledge and make me look differently at what I know. The prawn and cucumber recipe I cannot wait to try ! All my favourite ingredients used in an original way . . . I learned to use asafoetida some three decades back when foodie TV shows were still scarce here and a wonderful vegetarian chef convinced us all to try hing powder – but carefully, just a tad 🙂 ! Well, its many names range from ”Food for the Gods’ to ‘Devil’s Dung’ 🙂 ! Amchar I always have in my spice cupboard but know a lot less . . . I suppose as it is classically a Trinidadian spice . . . great homework ahead . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
September 20, 2020 at 6:52 amFunny, I had no idea of the roots of amchoor/amchar powder. But it adds such flavor.
It is a fascinating book, Eha — I’m so glad I have it as a reference!
Eha Carr
September 20, 2020 at 6:27 pmGreat ! I have learnt something again ! Wrote about amchar off the top of my head having made the very tasty Trinidadian chutney more than once ! Well, the word has about four or more spellings . . . this is the usual Aussie one. And mango powder mostly does come from India but Trinidad, naturally, has more than 50 % Indian roots . . . now I know 🙂 !!!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 20, 2020 at 6:42 pmAlways fun to learn through food, isn’t it?
Christina Conte
September 20, 2020 at 7:59 pmHow wonderful of you to review the book sans recipes! I love what you came up with as I do love Indian food, and shrimp! The cucumber soup is a lovely addition, too! I don’t think I’d have a problem having this three times! Ha! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:52 pmIt is a rare moment when I read a book that doesn’t have recipes – but, as it was about food, I truly enjoyed making an exception. I do think you would like the dish!
Valentina
September 20, 2020 at 9:02 pmDavid, you constantly have me shopping for new to me ingredients. Now I’m going to have to get mango powder. I’m excited! What a delicious meal — the cool soup with the warm shrimp is such a fantastic combination. I’m thinking LUCKY Markipedia! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:52 pmI think you have had me out shopping for a few, too, Valentina! I still dream of finding fresh passion fruit! And, no, Markipedia doesn’t complain too much! 🙂
2pots2cook
September 21, 2020 at 3:31 amI love India. Very much ! We both enjoy Indian food and are also aware of so many wonders yet to be discovered. Needless to say, my suitcases were always filed with the spices when coming back from there. The longest period of time I spent at one place was an Ashram and I’ve been there for three weeks eating Northern dishes most of the time. It, as you write, just made me understand how many more places and culture I do have to explore and learn … one of things I just added to my list is mango powder. Must have ! Definitely ! Thank you for the beauty !
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:53 pmHow wonderful that you have been able to travel to India. It is one of my dreams. Yes, Davorka – the mango powder is a must have!
ChefMimi
September 21, 2020 at 5:36 amI imagine this is a fascinating read. Such a different culture, or really I should say cultures. Generalized Indian cuisine is one of our favorites, and I often create my own Indian-inspired dishes, unless there’s a specific recipe I want to follow. But as you know, once you’re familiar with a cuisine’s ingredients, it’s easy to create. And I love what you did hear. The combination of the curried shrimp and cucumber soup sound like a perfect meal.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:54 pmMimi – I wish we had more diversity in our Indian restaurants here in Tucson, but I will take (and enjoy) what I can get. You are right – once you know the ingredients and a few basic methods, there is so much you can do!
sherry
September 21, 2020 at 5:54 amthis sounds very delish david. what a shame hubby doesn’t eat prawns (your shrimp). i love cucumber soup too. i know very little about indian cuisine, so i would have much to learn. i do have a copy of charmaine solomon’s complete asian cookbook (she was a well-known aussie cook of sri-lankan heritage). hubby has been making a curried chicken dish from it for many years. love a spicy dish!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:56 pmI want to come down there and take you out to a seafood dinner! I have to check out Charmaine Solomon – sounds wonderful!
sherry
September 25, 2020 at 6:07 pmsounds wonderful! come on down and visit post-covid!:-)
Ron
September 21, 2020 at 9:37 amDavid, you’ve introduced me to a book I’ve just placed on my Christmas wish list. I love reading about food cultures and food history, so I’ll wait with anticipation until Christmas.
Having traveled in and out of India in my working years I had an opportunity to experience asafoetida in non-ground form. I gotta tell you, it wasn’t a pleasant smell. Perhaps that’s why I’ve never cooked with it. Maybe I should give the processed version a try.
Your recipe looks wonderfully tasty. I think prawns served this way would be divine indeed.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:57 pmRon, the processed version of hing is pretty awful – think 2-moth old rotting sneakers in a boy’s high school locker room. But a little pinch does positively transform a dish!
I am glad you will get the book – it is a really fun read!
Pauline
September 21, 2020 at 6:25 pmLoved your post, and this recipe looks amazing and quite healthy. Looks like I need to visit our Indian supermarket and stock up on some ingredients. I also have my eye on your book, looks really interesting and whilst I enjoy Indian cuisine I don’t know much about its intricacies really. I am storing this recipe away to cook for my son in law when I see him at Christmas time, he spent some time in India many years ago, mostly as a vegetarian back then I think, but he would love this. We generally eat our tropical prawns fresh and cold but I will make an exception for this recipe. I love the idea of serving the spicy prawns with the delicious looking soup. Thanks for sharing this recipe and needing to eat it a few times so you could give us some great photos. Best wishes, Pauline
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 4:59 pmThank you for such a lovely comment, Pauline! I could spend hours in our Indian grocery store – so many unfamiliar and wonderful things! And the book is fascinating to read – again, the differences between the culinary traditions is amazing. I hope your son likes the prawn dish – I loved it even after the third time!
Dennis Yannakos
September 22, 2020 at 4:47 amI just need this meal to be happy all day!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 5:00 pmThanks, Dennis – food does make for happiness, doesn’t it?
Jeff the Chef
September 22, 2020 at 7:52 amThis sounds like a delicious dish. Mango powder? Yes! I know virtually nothing about Indian food, except how all those sauces are so delicious sopped up with naan.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 5:01 pmI think I will work on my homemade naan next, Jeff – I just haven’t found a frozen version I like well enough yet.
Kelly | Foodtasia
September 22, 2020 at 9:45 amDavid, I’m so excited to read this book! I cook or eat Indian food almost daily and have tons of different recipes. What’s missing though is an understanding of the differing techniques, where they come from, and how they differ from region to region. This is the book I somehow always knew I needed!
Loving all the flavors in this curried shrimp! It will be a big hit at our house! Hing and amchoor are staples in our cupboard. I know that some dishes do not contain onion and/or garlic, but I didn’t realize that hing was used as a replacement. I wonder how it would work if it was substituted for garlic in western dishes?
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 5:03 pmYou get the prize, Kelly – you have both mystery ingredients! Aren’t they wonderful? How did you come to cook Indian cuisine so much? I think you will enjoy the book.
Karen (Back Road Journal)
September 22, 2020 at 10:00 amThe interesting book led you to creating a delicious Indian meal. We don’t have an Indian market but thank goodness Amazon can come to the rescue. The mango powder sounds fun to experiment with but since only a pinch of pinch of hing is called for, I think I will just do without it.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 5:04 pmSomeday, Karen, you will need to at least smell and try hing – while only a pinch, it is really transformative.
Raymund
September 23, 2020 at 8:26 pmIndeed hing and amchoor is new to me, never heard of those but prpbably had tried them as I love going to Indian restaurant, still have to learn how to use all of their complex spices.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 5:04 pmHow are the Indian restaurants there, Raymund? I somehow imagine there are some good ones!
All That I'm Eating
September 24, 2020 at 12:49 amThis looks beautiful David and it sounds like a great book. I love the sound of that cucumber and buttermilk sauce.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 24, 2020 at 5:05 pmThanks, Caroline – it is nice to have the cooling cucumber and buttermilk soup along with the spicy shrimp.
Marcelle
September 25, 2020 at 3:32 pmI personally wouldn’t have had a problem with having to enjoy this dish three times so you could get these gorgeous pictures! 🙂 I love Indian food, the limited experiences I’ve had with it anyway. Do you think there is a more common spice that I could sub in for the hing, if I try to make this? It really looks like an amazing meal, David, and I’ll be making that cucumber soup soon. 🤗
Cocoa & Lavender
September 28, 2020 at 9:09 amThe easiest substitute would be onion powder or even finely grated onion (not too much of either). You are making a thick paste – nothing chunky! The soup stands well on its own, too, Marcelle! 🙂
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
September 27, 2020 at 7:37 pmI love Indian flavors! And despite “isolating” in a rural area, we do get fresh gulf shrimp up every 3-4 weeks, though some of the other ingredients might be more problematic.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 28, 2020 at 9:10 amAnd that is why we have mail order, isn’t it? If I didn’t have a local Indian grocery store, I would be buying all of this online! When you say Gulf shrimp – which gulf? We get Gulf of México shrimp which are amazing.
Priya
September 29, 2020 at 8:59 amOhhh David, I love this goan cuisine inspired recipe. I have to get this book now in my collection. Thanks a lot for sharing an amazing review with us.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 2, 2020 at 9:58 amAw, thanks Priya – the recipe is really quite wonderful and I think could be improved with a few curry leaves, but I didn’t get those form the dukaan until yesterday. Time for a fourth try!
Hasin
September 30, 2020 at 2:57 amDavid,
Great review, need to reserve or find this book at my local library. Asafoetida is a very powerful ingredient for many to tolerate the sharp pungent odour, a little goes a long way. The only way I enjoy adding this spice is to put in hot oil and allow the pungence to depart from the dish. Aamchoor is another favourite ingredient that replaces tomatoes and tamarind and goes well in most of the Indian chaat recipes. I love how you have devised your own cucumber soup from a raita. Great post and flavours David. Have a lovely day!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 2, 2020 at 10:03 amThanks so much, Hasin. I knew amchoor was used ot replace tamarind but didn’t know about tomatoes. I hope it wasn’t inappropriate to use tomato paste and amchoor together. While I mix the spices together and add them to the ghee, I can really smell the change in the asafotida. I love how powerful it is and how just a pinch makes magic in the dish.
sippitysup
October 1, 2020 at 9:03 amFascinating approach in developing a recipe. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
October 2, 2020 at 10:03 amIt was fun to create, Greg.