Famed late-19th and early-20th century chef Auguste Escoffier said, “The greatest dishes are very simple.” A not-so-famous home cook (me) added, “Some of the simplest dishes are the most alluring.” Today’s recipe for Spaghetti alla Carbonara is one such dish. I learned to make it in Rome in 2011 and cannot believe I haven’t shared it yet on Cocoa & Lavender. The time has come.
Its origin is a bit murky. It seems to be home-cooking comfort food. Some say it is was invented in wartime by soldiers on rations. Others that it originated with rural charcoal makers. Some theorize it is a variant on traditional Pasta Cacio e Uova that began to be known as Spaghetti alla Carbonara. The dish was not included in Ada Boni’s la Cucina Romana in 1930, but made its way into Elizabeth David’s 1954 book, Italian Food.
It came to the attention of Americans about the time of the liberation of Rome in 1944, when Allied soldiers were stationed there. No matter what the story, it seems to be a mid-century modern adaptation.
There are many versions of this recipe, but I have some basic rules when it comes to making Carbonara: the guanciale/pancetta should be cured and never smoked, the egg should be fresh, and the dish should never — NEVER — have cream. If you add cream, call it anything else, just don’t call it carbonara. The pasta? Always dry, traditionally, it is spaghetti, but you can find it (even in Rome) served with bucatini, fettuccine, or rigatoni. The cheese is pecorino Romano, or may be a blend of that with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
An aside: There is a very funny scene in the 2014 Dutch movie Tuscan Wedding, in which the Italian chef at the villa hosting the wedding is asked to make Spaghetti alla Carbonara with cream. Hilarity ensues. It’s quite a fun and funny movie — though poignant at times — and definitely worth watching.
Back to the pasta: Timing, combined with just the right heat, is the key to a successful Carbonara. Too slow and the eggs won’t cook properly; too hot and you end up with scrambled eggs mixed with cheese and spaghetti. The residual heat of the spaghetti when removed from the burner is almost enough to cook the egg-cheese mixture perfectly. It should be silky and smooth, and should never have lumps. Practice, of course, makes perfect. Escoffier didn’t say that, but someone smart did.
~ David
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Fran @ G'day Souffle'
February 27, 2021 at 8:27 amI’ve been watching Stanley Tucci’s Italian travel show on Sunday nights (CNN) and he frequently is surprised at how delicious the simple pasta dishes are; “How do you do it?” he says. This dish looks delicious!
David Scott Allen
February 27, 2021 at 1:39 pmI look forward to seeing the TUcci show – we don’t have cable so we can’t even stream it. I am sure it will be viewable on Netflix one day… The simplicity is definitely key, Fran.
Christina Conte
February 28, 2021 at 12:36 pmI will send you the link a friend sent me, David! You can livestream it on your computer, and it’s worth a watch! (It’s on tonight and they’re featuring Parma!)
John / Kitchen Riffs
February 27, 2021 at 8:55 amWhat a terrific dish! I haven’t made this for ages, and have been thinking about it. For about two years! One of these days I’ll actually getting around to making it again, so thanks for the inspiration. 🙂 I usually use linguine — I just like that shape better than spaghetti. And often substitute bacon for the guanciale or pancetta. Mainly because when I do make it, it’s often a last minute thought and although I always have bacon on hand, I don’t always have pancetta. And never guanciale, unless I buy it special for a dish. Although given that I’ve been thinking about making this for at least the last two years, you’d think I’d have time to lay in a supply of guanciale, wouldn’t you? 🙂
David Scott Allen
February 27, 2021 at 1:41 pmGuanciale is really hard to find in the U.S. – not impossible, but definitely available online. I never use bacon because of the smokiness – I find it too strong, but so glad it works for you! I hope you get around to making this soon, John!
Frank
February 27, 2021 at 1:25 pmI adore carbonara. Of course, who doesn’t? Although in my case it’s not just the deliciousness but the nostalgia for my Rome days… I have to say, although it’s fine with pancetta, guanciale really does make carbonara extra special. When I’m lucky enough to have some on hand, it really transports me back.
By the way, you’re not the only one who’s missed some of the essentials. I’m blogging right now on a super basic dish that we eat practically live on but, after 10+ years of blogging I’ve managed to forget about!
And tell me, do you know where I can find Tuscan Wedding on streaming? I’ve taken a look around and can’t seem to find it (iTunes, Netflix, Amazon don’t have it).
David Scott Allen
February 27, 2021 at 1:37 pmMy first real carbonara was in Rome, as well, Frank – there is nothing like it. I do use guanciale when I can get it, but its is hard to find here. I have made my own guanciale – which is second best, but pancetta (also home-cured) is a good substitute. The silkiness that guanciale gives to the dish is indescribable.
Looking forward to your post – can’t wait to see what it is!
Funny – we watched Tuscan Wedding streaming on Amazon. Looks like they have taken it down. I did find the full movie on YouTube but you have to watch it in 31 chapters – and that would be really annoying. I can’t even find a used DVD for our region now! I will let you know if I find it anywhere.
Eha Carr
February 27, 2021 at 4:33 pmDavid – the love you feel for this dish has softly but surely floated right across the Pacific. I have not prepared it awhile but there is nought more certain it will be remembered and made in the coming days. I can get guanciale locally made and actually prefer fettuccine above spaghetti. And I promise to be very careful not to scramble the eggs 🙂 ! Have to look out for ‘Tuscan Wedding’ . . . I do have a great pay-TV contract but do not subscribe to Netflix . . . barely ever get to watching a film actually . . . too many other personal interests . . . but thanks for the reminder of this . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:12 pmSomehow, spaghetti has become one of my favorite pastas after not having eaten it in decades! Go figure. I hope you can find Tuscan Wedding!
Marcelle
February 28, 2021 at 8:25 amDavid there are so many dishes I make so often (some even weekly) and I’ve never created a blog for them either…yet! I love spaghetti carbonara, it so delicious. I’m printing this post out, I’m going to make this at home this week. I’m sure my kids will adore this classic. I have regular cut bacon at home, but I will go to the store to find pancetta to keep this dish legit 💙
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:13 pmDefinitely try to find pancetta – it’s worth it, Marcelle!
Carolyne
February 28, 2021 at 10:35 amOh carbonara, my heart be still. You have turned this often terribly oversauced pasta into a thing of beauty.
xo
C
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:14 pmThanks, Carolyne! Too much is often just that – too much. Simple is the best.
Jeff the Chef
February 28, 2021 at 12:03 pmYour carbonara looks museum quality. Seriously. It’s beautiful. I love carbonara. I couldn’t agree with you – and Escoffier – that the simplest things are the most amazing.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:15 pmLove “museum quality” Jeff! You say the nicest things!
Christina Conte
February 28, 2021 at 12:38 pmYour Carbonara looks beautiful! It’s the same with cacio e pepe: very, very simple, but if you don’t do it right, it’s a hot mess! 🙂 Cannot wait to get back to Italy and all the wonderful food! Missing it SO much 🙁
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:15 pmOh, Christina – we are so looking forward to getting back to Italy! Soon… soon.
Marian Jensen
February 28, 2021 at 3:48 pmLooks delicious! Thanks for your recipe. :>)
I hope you can see the Stanley Tucci series soon. The first 2 episodes were very good. Have you seen his movie “Big Night”? It’s one of my favorites. And thanks for the “Tuscan Wedding” suggestion–I’ll look for it.
It’s not Carbonara, but thought you might enjoy this Fettuccine Alfredo video–
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk9HCxfIREo&feature=youtu.be
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:17 pmMarian – I loved that video – watching them make the Alfredo is wonderful! Thanks for sharing that. Now I want to make fettuccine Alfredo!
sherry
February 28, 2021 at 11:47 pmi saw an italian-australian cook make this on tv last week, and she was very adamant that no cream be used. I love this dish! so simple, so delicious.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:18 pmThanks, Sherry – so nice to know I am not the only one out there putting a stop to the cream!
Ron
March 1, 2021 at 6:34 amDavid, you’ve presented us with simplicity, but showed also the need for perfection in this classic dish.
I have a card framed on my office wall that says, “The simplest things are overlooked. And yet, it is the simplest things that are the most essential.” A truth in life and in the kitchen as well…
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:19 pmI love that saying, Ron. I’m saving that. Thanks, as ever, for your kind comments.
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
March 1, 2021 at 9:36 amThis looks beautiful David. And really, there would be no need for cream. But have you seen the controversy where the NY Times posted it with a red sauce? https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1021856-smoky-tomato-carbonara
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:20 pmOh, dear – carbonara with tomatoes? I don’t think I have the fortitude to look! (But you know I’m headed right over to see what people are saying!!)
Susan
March 1, 2021 at 1:12 pmWell, I don’t know what I can add to this long list of lovely and loving comments!Your Carbonara looks wonderful. It’s something I gave up years ago ordering in a restaurant as it was usually too thick and rich (and yechy), and we have not made it at home in many years as the meat (i.e., a good pancetta) is too hard to find and bacon is not satisfactory. In sum, this one looks yummy!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:21 pmYou and Towny should get a pork belly and make your own pancetta! It’s so worth it, Susan!
2pots2cook
March 2, 2021 at 3:32 amTerrific dish, of course ! So true that simple is the best and alluring but not always easy to make. Your carbonara looks absolutely great David ! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:22 pmThanks, Davorka. I’ve really enjoyed working to perfect this dish – not so easy!
Raymund
March 2, 2021 at 6:15 pmThis is what I love in Italian cooking the good ones are simple to make, just several ingredients highlighting how good the produce/ingredient is. That is why I prefer Italian pizza over those heavily topped ones that have thick crust and everything.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:23 pmI agree wholeheartedly, Raymund – the simple, thin-crust pizzas in Italy (or Italian style) cannot be beat!
Valentina
March 3, 2021 at 11:04 amThis looks amazing, David. Simple AND alluring! Your photo is so good, I really want to just get a fork and dig in. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:24 pmI wish I could share it with you, Valentina! Maybe someday soon!
Colette
March 3, 2021 at 3:07 pmCarbonara under a generous dusting of black pepper is my all-time fav!
Your pics are so delectable! xo
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:24 pmThe pepper really makes it, doesn’t it, Colette?
Jean | Delightful Repast
March 4, 2021 at 10:54 amDavid, this is a perfect example of taking a few simple, quality ingredients and putting them together simply but skillfully to make something wonderful. I never find guanciale, but pancetta is always available. I am not a fan of very smoky bacon in any application, not just carbonara, so I always buy an organic uncured bacon that is smoked, but apparently very lightly, with no “smoke” flavor added; and I’m thinking it might work for this in a pinch. Loved your instruction to be liberal with the black pepper.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:26 pmYou know, Jean, I have also made this successfully with plain pork belly or salt pork – they actually work!
Vance Morgan
March 4, 2021 at 2:30 pmDavid, Anne claims I married her for her spaghetti carbonara, which is partially true. She served it early in our courtship. She added wild mushrooms and chopped onions. The other ingredients are the same as yours.
I have found restaurants use a cream sauce because they are reluctant to serve raw eggs, although Massimo’s in Portsmouth will add a raw egg.
All the best.
Vance and Anne
Cocoa & Lavender
March 4, 2021 at 10:27 pmVance — your comment makes me wonder at what temperature does the egg cook? Is the residual heat enough?
Chef Mimi
March 7, 2021 at 5:50 pmYour photos are so good I can taste it. Have you been watching Stanley Tucci in Searching for Italy?!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 11, 2021 at 2:10 pmThanks, Mimi! Mark always gets to eat dinners lukewarm because I need to photograph them! We have not been able as we don’t have cable. Many have suggested the live stream but even that requires a login at some point. Luckily, a friend has recorded them and , once we are able, we will watch them together… while eating wonderful Italian cuisine!
Aarthi
March 7, 2021 at 11:15 pmLove Spaghetti carbonara , and your version without the cream is perfect for me, I cannot wait to try this out, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 11, 2021 at 2:11 pmThanks, Aarthi! I hope you enjoy it!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
March 15, 2021 at 7:43 amSimple really can be the best when it comes to cooking. We have Spaghetti alla Carbonara on a Sunday evening when our food pantries are getting low. This is one of my husband’s (he is Italian) specialties…he adds an extra yolk without the egg white. Simple and delicious.
John
March 19, 2021 at 1:56 pmCarbonara finds its way onto our dining table at least once a month, and it’s next due any day now. I absolutely adore it!