Three weeks is hardly enough time even to begin exploring a country entirely new to us. But we did our best on our first trip to Spain by evenly splitting our time among three cities in Andalucia: a week each in Granada, Sevilla, and Córdoba. Over the next few weeks, I will be doing mid-week travel posts on each of the three. I’ll share the amazing things we saw, foods eaten, restaurants enjoyed, and observations made during our time there. I’ll reserve these weekend posts for recipes.
When we told our friends of our travel plans that included weeklong stays, many were surprised and said we’d need but a day or two max for each place. Sure, you can race through the highlights that way, but that does not do justice to either the prominent monuments or the less famous riches and resources, let alone the subtler cultural aspects. We like staying longer in each place… getting to know our way around the city as if we live there: food shopping, cooking, striking up conversations with local residents, and — of course — seeing the treasures beyond the highlights tour.
I will start today sharing some recipes which we had at restaurants and made in our rental apartments during our visit. When we checked into our apartment in Sevilla, our hosts Barbara and Barbara were concerned. Apparently, they had scoped out Cocoa & Lavender, and were worried that the apartment kitchen would be too small for our culinary dreaming. I love that they thought of this, but I assured them that two burners were plenty to make great food. Still, they very kindly brought an immersion blender to the apartment from their home to make sure I’d be able to make gazpacho if I wanted to.
As it happened, I made a batch of Salmorejo, a cousin of gazpacho. It is a wonderful chilled soup found throughout Andalucia. It is made of tomato, bread, and olive oil. A quick trip to the Arenal market house found us with beautiful plum tomatoes, gorgeous Jamón Ibérico, and a nice loaf of bread (plus the rolls we needed for the soup). I made it that afternoon before siesta and, after more exploring in the evening, we enjoyed it chilled, garnished with hard-boiled egg and Jamón Ibérico (I didn’t know the Jamón is traditionally crisped, but it is delicious either way). One other nice thing about this soup? It also makes a wonderful sauce for one of our favorite tapas — but I’ll share that recipe another day.
~ David
Markipedia in Sevilla
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Sippitysup
October 29, 2022 at 10:12 amI make this cousin too. We love it. Have a great trip. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:09 pmI rather like it more than gazpacho, Greg. I like it smoothness and subtlety.
Mad Dog
October 29, 2022 at 11:14 amThat looks perfect! I’ve had the occasional Salmorejo with a ouch of cumin in it and I have to say it’s very good.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:10 pmI love the idea of adding cumin, Mad Dog. Our Sevilla hosts had a couple of raspberries. Now I have two more variations I need to try…
Jeff the Chef
October 29, 2022 at 5:13 pmWhat an interesting way to roll, David. I bet that when you come home, you feel like you really got a feel for the place, which is really cool. Plus, I think it’s fantastic slink around in foreign markets. I do it all the time, but I’ve always stayed in hotels, so I can’t really but a lot of foods, other than things that are ready-to-eat. I also think it takes time to really enjoy a place, so I think you’re on to something.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:11 pmOne of my greatest joys when traveling is cooking while there. All the different things you can buy in the markets, or how readily available things are… And, it makes me feel more like I am at home. I hope you try renting an apartment sometime, Jeff.
Chef Mimi
October 30, 2022 at 7:21 amI like the way you travel! this soup sounds outstanding! Have a fabulous trip!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:11 pmThanks, Mimi! The trip was fantastic… Now we have to choose between Italy, France, Switzerland, Austria, Germany, and Spain! I think we just need to travel longer and hit them all.
Ronit
October 30, 2022 at 11:13 amA day or two in a new city is never enough! A week is indeed more like it.
I love Gazpacho, but noticed Salmorejo is getting more attention lately, and had it on my mind to try soon. So having your recipe definitely makes it easier!
Looking forward to more recipes from your trip. 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:13 pmIt’s funny, Ronit, but we saw gazpacho on very few menus in Spain. Perhaps it was too late in the season, but there were still beautiful tomatoes available so I don’t know why… perhaps people are discovering salmorejo and mazamorra, and like the change!
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
October 30, 2022 at 3:09 pmOf course you always want to embrace as many places as possible during the trip, and I used to be this way (Often making the trip for myself and especially for my hubby lol stressful because it’s hard to stick to a tight schedule.) Luckily, our approach has changed lately (That’s age, for sure) – now we prefer less hectic trip without the necessity to drive for hundreds of kilometers every day. That’s why your timing sounds perfect to explore a new country. Looking forward to your next posts on your trip.
P.S. Salmorejo look perfect, so smooth and creamy.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:15 pmThanks, Ben! Yes, we are getting very old, and the running around is just no fun anymore. Normally we would spend the three weeks in one place, but this was our first trip in Spain and we wanted to see what Andalucia had to offer. I can’t wait to try more of the puréed soups that we had in Spain. I hope you’ll see them here on the blog soon!
Paula
October 30, 2022 at 11:47 pmI love that you went to Spain! I ate my fair share of gazpacho these past two weeks, but hardly any salmorejo. So I feel this recipe will get tested soon in my kitchen. Thanks for sharing it David, and I can’t wait for the rest of your trip details. Have a great week!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:16 pmI think you were more in northern Spain, weren’t you Paula? Salmorejo is definitely southern… I hope you’ve been having fun on your trip, and can’t wait to hear more about it.
Ron
October 31, 2022 at 3:49 amWhat fun you guys must have had. When we used to travel more, we’d do the same, pick a couple of towns in the region and devourer all we could in a week or more in each town. I find the challenge of cooking in a small kitchen with limited amenities challenging, but I like to take my own knives when I can.
Your salmorejo is a dish I’ve not tried but soon shall. I’m looking forward to hearing more about your adventure…
Cocoa & Lavender
October 31, 2022 at 2:19 pmTaking our own knives is very rarely an option from the United States! We tend to only do carry-on, so it’s very hard. However, I’ve been known to buy more than one knife on a trip to make my time in a kitchen happy. (And I usually end up buying a rolling pin, too.) Small kitchens can be fine, it just requires a little bit of patience. I can’t wait to make and post another chilled soup made with bread and almonds. It blew both of us away… Mazamorra.
Raymund
November 1, 2022 at 6:26 pmSounds really delicious, definitely tons of umami. Perfect for the cold autumn weather
Cocoa & Lavender
November 2, 2022 at 7:27 amDefinitely lots of great flavor in this soup.
Sherry M
November 1, 2022 at 9:40 pmthis soup sounds wonderful david. when you say shallot i guess you mean those small roundish things? :=) here in Aus a shallot can be a long skinny thing or a small round thing. glad your time in spain was fabulous.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 2, 2022 at 7:28 amHah! We get both kinds here in the states — but for this I used a long skinny one!
The-FoodTrotter
November 3, 2022 at 3:45 pmSevilla is one of the most stunning city I’ve ever visited! I’m still shocked! Anyway I tried to have salmorejo, but I’ve been a bit disappointed… Mine was slightly fizzy…. I wonder how old it was in the restaurant…. Anyway… I should recreate your recipe instead ^^
Cocoa & Lavender
November 5, 2022 at 1:30 pmWow, fizzy? It dies sound old. I cannot think what would make it that way. Definitely try mine when you can get good tomatoes!
2pots2cook
November 4, 2022 at 2:18 amFiery Andalucia is our big, big love although we avoid it during summer months. It is so seducing: food, dance, people, nature, culture, history, everything…. would go there over and over again……
Cocoa & Lavender
November 5, 2022 at 1:31 pmWe cannot wait to go back — but, first, Moroccan and Paris!
Velva
November 5, 2022 at 11:18 amDavid! Spent almost a month in traveling through Spain this past summer-hands down one of my favorite countries. I love the food, the people and the culture. I was excited to read your blogpost.
I have been making a Spanish Gazpacho too, since arriving home. Your Salmorjejo looks divine. Don’t you love the simplicity? It’s proof that you can let ingredients speak for themselves when they are quality fresh ingredients.
Velva
Cocoa & Lavender
November 5, 2022 at 1:35 pmVelva — the simplicity of the fois really dies highlight the fresh ingredients. Quite similar to Italian cuisine (in Italy!). We can’t wait to go back and explore more.
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
November 6, 2022 at 6:12 amI trust you guys have a fabulous time, David. And I’ll be looking forward to those travel posts. Believe it or not, I’ve never been to Spain, but I’m planning on going soon, perhaps next year, and those same three cities are at the top of my list!
Your salmorejo looks wonderful, by the way. I’m sure I’d love it but my better half doesn’t care for gazpacho (?!) so I may have to sneak it in for a solo lunch one of these days…
Cocoa & Lavender
November 6, 2022 at 10:09 pmActually, Frank — I’m not a huge fan of gazpacho. But the salmorejo is quite different from gazpacho. I think you should try it next summer!
Please let me know if you need anything in planning your trip to Andalucia —- we are happy to share!
Granada – The Alhambra – Cocoa & Lavender
November 8, 2022 at 7:30 am[…] an absolutely wonderful dish of Anchoas del Cantábrico (marinated anchovies) served with toasts, Salmorejo, and chopped egg along with a plate of Jamøon Ibérico, served with bread. Another time we enjoyed […]
Valentina
November 13, 2022 at 8:52 pmBarbara & Barbara sound lovely. (And fun they have the same names.) Love that they checked out your site and love even more that they brought the immersion blender to your place. I’ve always enjoyed spending a long time in small towns — you can really get to know them, as you said. Needless to say, I want this soup! Delicious — and your presentation is so pretty. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
November 14, 2022 at 7:17 amThey were truly the best hosts, Valentina. We hope to keep in touch with them and perhaps see them either here or back in Spain! They have several apartments, and some of the others have bigger kitchens (which you know appeals to me). when the tomatoes are ripe, the soup is unbeatable! I like it so much better than gazpacho.
Marcelle
November 14, 2022 at 4:48 pmWow, David! You two have been on a big adventure!! I agree with you that a day or two is hardly enough time to really get a feel for a new place. Staying 7 days in 3 new cities is such a great plan. We haven’t done a European vacation in many years, but now that the kids are bigger we have been considering it!! Renting an apartment just may be the way we go when we do. I have heard of this soup before, although I have never tried it. I can’t wait to try your recipe, it really looks fantastic!
P.S. Yes, I am totally stalking your blog today, I’ve needed to come visit and catch up!! ❤️
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 10:35 amRenting apartments – especially when you have the family there – is the best way to explore. Having that private space every evening when you get home is priceless!And today is MY day for catch up – I am soooo behind!
Christina Conte
November 15, 2022 at 6:52 pmI have yet to visit Sevilla, but this chilled soup sounds wonderful! Love gazpacho, so what’s not to love with this!?
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 10:40 amI know you will love this, Christina – and the one I will be posting soon. Another bread soup from Spain!
John
December 5, 2022 at 2:31 amHow sweet that your hosts brought over an immersion blender! Salmorejo is so much nicer than gazpacho, I think, and I love how versatile it can be. So refreshing, too!