We were sad to leave Granada, yet brimming with excitement to continue our Andalusian adventures in Sevilla. Our apartment was literally a few hundred feet from both the Alcázar and the cathedral, with its iconic Giralda Tower, the minaret of a mosque that once stood on the cathedral site. We could not have been in a better location; convenient yet at the end of a quiet cul-de-sac crowded only with orange trees. The only sound we heard was the magnificent clamor of the cathedral bells.
Our first stop was the Royal Alcázar (Reales Alcázares de Sevilla), which we entered through the Puerta del Léon (Gate of the Lion). The palace captivated my heart as fully and quickly as had the Alhambra, and maybe more so. No matter how much pre-trip studying I did, or the number of images I’d seen, nothing prepared me for the actual experience. Most memorable are the Mudéjar style tile work: sculpted plaster walls, ceilings, gardens – all reminiscent of the Nasrid-era palaces at the Alhambra.
The Alcázar remains one of the official residences of the Spanish royal family, and their private apartments are open some days via an add-on ticket and a small-group guided tour. No photography was permitted in the royal suite, but I highly recommend visiting its dazzling historic rooms.
Following our guided tour of the apartment, we were returned to the Patio de la Montería (Courtyard of the Hunter) and, from there, entered into the first floor of the palace, where we toured at our own pace. The first stop was the Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens). I lose my ability describe such beauty, so I will leave you with these photos.
Following the crowd through the warren of shimmering rooms and passageways, we came to the Patio de las Muñecas (Courtyard of the Dolls) and, from there, into the Salón de Embajadores. When I look at this ceiling, words escape me yet again. I got lost in its intricate geometry, and subtly-polychromed dome. Wouldn’t you?
We were then set loose in the immense gardens, resplendent with water features large and small. The manipulation of water in this climate was an engineering marvel and, with the gardens, was as integral to the display of power as the opulent rooms within the palace. Thus, they were continually expanded through centuries.
Throughout the palace and the gardens, I found some charming architectural details.
We left the palace gardens through the Gothic Hall and stables…
… and found ourselves in the Juderia, the old Jewish quarter. It was wonderful to get lost in its narrow, cobbled streets, and find a café where we could rest our feet and sip a sangria.
Of course, there was some fun street art to be found…
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Chef Mimi
November 22, 2022 at 5:42 amOh how beautiful. That tile work… incredible.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 22, 2022 at 3:26 pmIt just wowed me every day we were there, Mimi!
Mad Dog
November 22, 2022 at 7:21 amStunning pictures yet again!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 22, 2022 at 3:27 pmThanks, Mad Dog! I really appreciate that!
Becky Blackhall
November 22, 2022 at 9:11 amGorgeous!! Will be sharing with my students! Also timely as we just went to a Flamenco performance and Spanish tapas dinner. These images should have been looping in the background methinks!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 22, 2022 at 3:28 pmI wish we had a tapas restaurant here – we used to, and always with live guitar. But they closed ages ago… Maybe I need to open one? Hahahahahahaha. No. I hope your students enjoy this – I have quite a few ore posts coming!
pauline
November 23, 2022 at 12:11 amI would never tire of visiting these Palaces and magnificent buildings, always something different to be found. The intricacies of the beautiful tiling is mind blowing. The Jewish quarter looks fascinating David. You’ve captured it all beautifully in all of your photos. Thanks for sharing the splendour.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 26, 2022 at 10:49 amThanks so much, Pauline — The whole city was simply magical. Honestly, we feel like we are cheating on Italy — but we have found a new love! Staying in the Juderia was very special — quiet small streets.
Sherry M
November 23, 2022 at 9:44 pmabsolutely stunning david! the colours; those tiles, everything. your mention of water features reminds me of being in salzburg, with the wonderful spurting fountain; and the ceilings of the sistine chapel, and your mention of the bells reminds me of the place we stayed in salzburg which overlooked a church – the bells rang often and we loved it. isn’t travel a marvellous thing?
Cocoa & Lavender
November 26, 2022 at 10:48 amBells are definitely something we love. Often
Sherry M
November 23, 2022 at 9:45 pmi’m too lazy to type in my URL! but it’s me sherry from sherry’s pickings!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 26, 2022 at 10:46 amThat’s okay, Sherry – it shows up as you anyway! 🙂
Ron
November 25, 2022 at 12:07 amDavid, you’ve done such an excellent job with your travel posts. We’re truly enjoying them.
Perhaps you should become a travel blogger and roam the world looking for treasures to share with us.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 26, 2022 at 10:46 amThanks so much, Ron. I would love to do travel writing… I wonder how one gets into that?
Ron
November 27, 2022 at 8:47 amMaybe the same as one gets into food blogging. Even if no one reads what you write (I would) it would give you an excuse to travel the world and then get grand offers to travel and dine free and then become an Instagram influencer…
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:08 amThat sounds like a great way to go about it! Traveling and dining for free would be optimal. 🙂
Marian Jensen
November 25, 2022 at 3:50 pmLove these posts, David. We’ve only been to Madrid, Barcelona, Toledo, and El Escorial–and that was many years ago.
Your photos and narrative are outstanding. Thanks!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 26, 2022 at 10:45 amThanks, Marian! Now you need to get Mark to take you to Andalucia!
Jeff the Chef
November 27, 2022 at 5:37 amBeautiful. I love the color palette. And such intricate work!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:07 amTruly, Jeff, we were blown away by the beauty of the Alcázar. The craftsmanship is otherworldly. I don’t think there’s anyone today who could make this.
Valentina
November 27, 2022 at 11:28 pmEvery single inch is absolutely breath taking. The details are incredible!!! ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:10 amAnd the funny thing, Valentina? My photographs are the tip of the iceberg. I’m sure you were there when you lived in Spain, and I’m sure it was just incredible having some thing so nearby.
Raymund
November 28, 2022 at 3:46 pmJust look at those designs, so intricate and knowing it was built centuries ago each element definitely is painstaking and laborious, glad to see buildings like these still exist that is why I love visiting Europe they had kept a lof of these in great condition. Love the post David
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:14 amThanks so much! As I was saying to Jeff, I wish they were artisans like this that still existed in our world. Like you, I’m glad we have buildings like this to visit.
2pots2cook
November 29, 2022 at 1:56 amIf my memory serves me well, Juderia is nicely described in “Cathedral of the Sea! by Ildefonso Falcones. Great trip you had! So glad for you!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:16 amFantastic! Another book I should keep an eye out for it…
Marie-Claire Péron
November 29, 2022 at 10:07 amFabulous photos! Thanks for taking me back to one of my favorite trips, mon ami.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:21 amSo glad you enjoyed the photos, ma chère amie! It was truly a magical experience! And thanks so much for subscribing to C & L!
James Cutfield
November 29, 2022 at 11:06 amDavid & Mark. I am entranced by your beautiful photographs & your words capturing the spendour of your recent travels to Spain. The artistry, creativity, complex forms & grace in which they lived is magical. Well done for capturing this so well & sharing with us.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:22 amThank you so much, James. And while I expected to see beautiful things in Spain, my expectations work exceeded early on. Just stunning.
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
December 1, 2022 at 5:02 pmTerrific – these walls are the work of art! Gorgeous colour palette; I particularly love the blue / teal and brown / copper hues. They would make a gorgeous backdrop for food photos lol
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2022 at 8:10 amI would have loved to do a food photo shoot here – you are so right, Ben, the colors are just perfect
John
December 7, 2022 at 10:23 pmThe detail in these buildings is quite extraordinary, isn’t it? I could stand and study the detail for hours. Such mastery and utter beauty!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2022 at 9:42 amI think I could go back there again and again and still see things that I’ve missed from times before.