There are several incredible house museums in Sevilla — among them are the Casa de Pilatos and the Las Dueñas — Casa de Alba. Markipedia — of course — wanted to see them for their gardens, which was fine. But I didn’t get really excited about visiting them until I saw glimpses of the interiors online (and in one movie) that made me want/need to see them both. Naturally, you can read the full history of these online. I’ll just give you a brief sketch of each and share some photos.
Las Dueñas—Casa de Alba
Las Dueñas was built in the late 1400s into the 1500s for the Pineda Family, Lords of the Bermejas; it was named for the neighboring convent, Santa Maria de las Dueñas. Early on, it was sold to the governor’s widow in order to raise ransom money to retrieve her husband after he was taken prisoner by the Moors. (It turns out those operaplots aren’t solely fantasy!) The house remains in the family of its “new” owners still, after all these centuries. The current (19th) Duke opened the ground floor to the public recently, in 2016.
Walking through the house, you get a real sense that it is still a family home. Cayetana Fitz-James Stuart y de Silva, the late Duquesa de Alba (married to the 18th Duke of Alba), lived in Las Dueñas for almost 90 years — it was said to be her favorite home. You can still feel her there — through her paintings, her flamenco room (with the stage on which she danced), the use of team colors to support her favorite football (soccer) team, and in photos of her throughout. The decoration and souvenirs and paintings with which she surrounded herself suggest she was full of lively whimsy. The house is, as one blogger put it, igual de siempre; the same as ever.
Many famous people visited Las Dueñas, memorialized by photos on the drawing room tables: Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Grace of Mónaco with her husband Prince Rainier, Lord Holland, and quite a list of Spanish Royalty, including Empress Eugenia de Montijo, Eduardo VIII, Jorge VI (Eduardo’s brother), and Alfonso XIII.
The gardens are spectacular. The lushly-planted central courtyard is augmented by the Patio de Limonera — the lemon garden, an olive tree garden, and the adjacent Santa Justa garden. Wherever you turned there was a green space to relax in any season, in sun or shade. (There is a €12 fee for admission, and it can be paid at the entrance. No advance tickets are necessary.)
Casa de Pilatos
My first glimpse of Casa de Pilatos was in the silly adventure-romance comedy Knight and Day starring Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz. It’s a fun romp, but it also had scenes filmed in the Casa de Pilatos. I was enamored with my first glimpse — I had never seen so much tile work in my life!
The building was built in the late 1400s in the Renaissance style with significant Mudéjar influences. It is, like La Dueñas, designed around a central courtyard with a fountain. The ground floor windows are not glazed — all is open to the air, suited to the torrid summers. The Dukes of Medinaceli still live upstairs (yes, their windows are glazed).
The tile still goes by its Arabic name – azulejo – indicative of the origins of the art. They are seen all over the city; this home alone contains 150 different patterns of tiles, one of the largest single collections of such tiles. They cover huge expanses of walls in gorgeous patterns. They were mostly made in the early 1500s by two bothers — Diego and Juan Pulido. Before our visit, I thought such rooms would be very loud, but, during our visit, I found it oddly quiet, with just the murmurs and quiet footsteps of a few awed visitors. I’d need a large dinner party with a lively discussion of politics to hear the real acoustics!
There was one room — almost detached from the main house — decorated in neo-classical style and filled with Roman antiquities, indicative of the family’s historic connections to Italy. This room juts outward with windows into the garden on three sides. This particular garden was in the Italian style, with terraced areas, a reflecting pool, and sculptures, giving the effect of multiple gardens in one.
The garden to the northwest was just a bit larger, bordered on one side by a colorful tiled logia, and on three sides by calm Italian Renaissance-stlye loggias. The garden itself was symmetrical with paths converging at a central fountain. The garden staff at Casa de Pilatos were at the beginning of the huge task of seasonal shearing and weeding. A week or two later, the gardens were, no doubt, as crisp as could be. But we found the somewhat overgrown quality gave the gardens an air of timelessness and romance. (There is a €10 fee for admission, and it can be paid at the entrance. No advance tickets are necessary.)
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Matthew B. Thornton
November 29, 2022 at 4:55 amDavid,
Thank you for all the beautiful pictures of Spain. I really miss Spain but am glad your trip has brought back some fond memories.
Matt
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:17 amThanks, Matt. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos and that they brought back good memories. Truly, I cannot wait to go back again.
Fran @ G'day Souffle
November 29, 2022 at 5:22 amSuch beautiful tile work and architecture! I’m glad the late Duquesa was into Flamenco dancing- I saw her costume sitting there in the photo. One good thing about flamenco is that you can still be age 80 and not look too silly on stage. When I was in Madrid five years ago, I took flamenco dance lessons and still have my special skirt and shoes (and thankfully, I haven’t hit age 80 yet)!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:18 amI truly wish I had gotten a chance to meet the Duquesa. She seems like a hoot. There was so much whimsy in the house, that there’s no way I could show it in all the photos. But the cute tile of the dog that says, “in this house I command,“ really shows her personality.
Jeff the Chef
November 29, 2022 at 6:58 amThanks for all these wonderful pictures, David! I love the reclining nude statue. I dont know if I’ve ever seen a reclining statue before. And the tile room. It could be that the irregularity of the handmade tiles helps to break up sound. But in any case, it must’ve been a whole life’s work for those two guys.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:19 amThat is an interesting theory about the tiles, Jeff. I suppose it could be so… Yes, I cannot believe the amount of work those two brothers dead on this house. It’s truly astounding…
Susan Esco Chandler
November 29, 2022 at 9:26 amThe wedding ensemble photo – next to the Jackie O photo – is of our tour guide (woman far left in pantsuit ..mother of the bride) and the bride who also was our guide. Both fun women who showed us all they love of Spain!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:20 amThat is so incredibly cool, Susan! How on earth did you get to meet them?
Doreen
November 29, 2022 at 10:41 amTruly beautiful.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:21 amThanks, Doreen! It’s so much fun sharing it with you and others!
Eha
November 29, 2022 at 2:45 pmWhat a huge amount of imagination and talent by so many artists both inside and outside has gone to create the whole . . . a big hug to you for having taken us along . . . methinks my computer screen will complain about all the scrolling ahead and learning and enjoying 🙂 !
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:22 amYou can let your computer know that it was a good form of exercise, all that scrolling… i’m so glad you enjoyed the photos, Eha.
Chef Mimi
November 29, 2022 at 2:54 pmSuch beauty. Such riches. Great photos.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:23 amThanks, Mimi — it is an incredible place.
Marian Jensen
November 29, 2022 at 5:52 pmFantastic commentary and photos. Thanks! Going in my Spain file.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:23 amI hope you and Mark get to go soon, Marian.
Mad Dog
November 29, 2022 at 6:43 pmWhat a stunningly beautiful house! There are festivals and days, where lesser, but none the less worthy, private homes open their doors and gardens to the public and it’s always a privilege to see the history.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:23 amI think being able to go into those homes on the stairs will be our next goal, Mad Dog.
Tom Buchanan
November 29, 2022 at 10:20 pmOverwhelmingly beautiful. Thanks so much, David.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2022 at 8:24 amThank you, Tom. I’m so glad you enjoyed a brief romp through these homes.
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
November 30, 2022 at 1:19 pmBoth places are gorgeous, inside and out. What I wouldn’t give to live in a place like Las Dueñas… so elegant and yet so cozy.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2022 at 8:07 amI agree, Frank – there is something so elegant yet liveable about Las Dueñas. As long as I can pay regular visits to Casa de Pilatos… 🙂
Lisa Harper
December 1, 2022 at 6:04 amClearly, I need to go back to Seville. These are beautiful homes enhanced by stunning photography.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2022 at 8:07 amThanks you, Lisa – that is so kind. I don’t think it is possible to take a bad photo in either home!
Ron
December 1, 2022 at 10:52 amThis is a very impressive post. I must say that if I had to pick between the two I’d go for Las Dueñas. So what is the tall porcelain thing on top of the table in the dining room (I think)? It’s very intriguing for an old ceramicist like me.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2022 at 8:08 amYou and Frank and I agree – Las Dueñas is quite liveable! 🙂 The tall porcelain object is a bulb pot for forcing spring bulbs in the winter.
Gerlinde
December 1, 2022 at 4:55 pmWhat a great read David, thank you. This world is full of beautiful places, we just have to find them.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2022 at 8:08 amIsn’t that the truth, Gerlinde – and I plan to keep finding them as long as I can!
Sherry Mac
December 4, 2022 at 3:16 pmit’s all so stunning isn’t it david? such amazing buildings and tiles and fountains and gardens … So elaborate. I guess a bit too elaborate for my tastes but i’d love to see it all in person one day!
Raymund
December 7, 2022 at 6:06 pmLove those mosaic walls! Very beautiful.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2022 at 9:41 amAren’t they phenomenal? I could go back again and again just to look at those walls.
John
December 10, 2022 at 2:12 amSo much artistry in these properties, inside and out. The gardens are exquisite! Thanks so much for sharing, David.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 10, 2022 at 6:47 amMy pleasure, John — thanks.
Valentina
December 12, 2022 at 5:21 pmI love “traveling” through these places through your gorgeous photos. Thank you for sharing! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
December 13, 2022 at 8:48 amThanks so much, Valentina — just so much to see. On to Córdoba next week!