It seems like every fall we are bombarded by hundreds, perhaps thousands, of pumpkin recipes: pies, cakes, breads, tarts, rolls, gelati, custards, and so on. Mostly deserts.
Rarer are savory pumpkin recipes, although I have seen a few for pumpkin gnocchi, or soup, or roasted pumpkin slices with some sauce or other.
Either way, I notice that most people are either on the pumpkin bandwagon (with gusto), or
they prefer to do without pumpkin in their lives.
Many years ago, Mark and I bought a heavy-duty cedar plank in Seattle for roasting salmon in the oven. This was not one of those disposable, one-time-use planks we see
everywhere today. I roasted a lot of salmon on that plank, and still do.
The first recipe I made using the plank came from a magazine almost 20 years ago. My
version is a riff on that original. And it isn’t so much about the salmon, as it is about the sauce.
The pumpkin vinaigrette was the component that made this dish so special, so unique. It
doesn’t employ the usual pumpkin spices. Their absence might make this recipe more appealing to pumpkin naysayers.
Over the years, I have taken the original vinaigrette recipe and reworked it to make it
both easier to make, and more accessible for year-round ingredients.
The original recipe called for apple cider, and real cider certainly isn’t available year round. I ended up using undiluted apple juice concentrate. It brings a great apple taste – in fact, more flavor than the cider – and always very easy to find.
I switched out the hulled pumpkin seeds, which are hard to find in many places, and used either pecans or walnuts. for the original recipe called for a garnish with hulled pumpkin seeds. I used salted sunflower seeds, but have switched to pine nuts. Either works great.
Of course, the original recipe called for homegrown, house-roasted pumpkin purée (I did use freshly roasted pumpkin for making the recipe today), but I have found that
canned pumpkin works just as well.
The choice of olive oil and vinegar make a big difference in the taste of the sauce. Use the
best you can find. While I like cider vinegar, it really doesn’t improve the apple flavor of the vinaigrette and it can be harsh, so I use an herb-infused vinegar. Tarragon vinegar will be the most readily available, but you can infuse your own vinegars using fresh or dried herbs.
One of the biggest changes I made to the overall recipe was heating the vinaigrette. The
original was served cold on hot salmon. I am not a fan of the hot-cold combination. Heating it really made all the difference.
In the end, the cedar essence imparted by the plank is overwhelmed by the fullness of the
vinaigrette, so I no longer plank the salmon for this recipe. Besides, not everyone has a cedar plank.
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Caroline @ Pinch Me, I'm Eating!
January 16, 2016 at 4:06 pmSounds delicious! I don't think I've seen tarragon vinegar before (although I haven't been looking). Could you use something like a white wine vinegar and some tarragon instead? What's the base vinegar for an herb-infused one?
Also, I love that measuring cup with the metal label and the little spoon! Where do you pick up your fun food props?
Cocoa & Lavender
January 16, 2016 at 4:46 pmThanks for your comment, Caroline – I think you could use any light vinegar (white, white wine, cider, or even sherry) and infuse any herbs that you like. I have found tarragon vinegar to be the most readily available in grocery stores. If you really want a treat, use Kressi vinegar from Switzerland (it's what I use) – I order it from Swiss Treasures online.
I love my cups and spoons and have amassed quite a collection to Markipedia's dismay! (Although he usually buys them for me after I admire them…) Many have come from Anthropologie – they put out a bunch of different sets every year. The ones you mention in this post were both from Anthropologie last Christmas.
Cindy
January 16, 2016 at 6:50 pmI love salmon and this recipe seems to be an easy one. I will use some smash pumpkin since I have one jar around. Getting busy tomorrow.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:27 amSounds like a plan, Cindy! I have often used a couple fo tablespoons from a tin of pumpkin to make this.
John - heneedsfood
January 16, 2016 at 9:22 pmDavid, I'm loving everything about this recipe. I occasionally make a pumpkin sauce for pasta – a by-product of excess pumpkin soup, but have never even thought to use it as a sauce for salmon. I love it!
And you're right, the influx of sweet pumpkin recipes at thing time of the year (mainly from your part of the world) is astounding. I must say, I'm not the biggest fan of sweetened pumpkin – let alone spiced. It's quite the opposite here. It's all about using it as a vegetable, as you're probably aware. It's even nice raw – thinly shaved and tossed through salads!
Finally, I need to find a plank of cedar. I adore the flavour it imparts on salmon. To die for!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:29 amYes, we are guilty for all those sweet pumpkin recipes. I do love a good pumpkin pie, but…
I have never tried it raw – will give that s shot! And, yes, the cedar plan is wonderful. When you come here, I will get one for you to take back.
Sippity Sup
January 17, 2016 at 2:53 amGorgeous. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:29 amThanks!
Sippity Sup
January 17, 2016 at 2:55 amOops. That reads funny. I didn't mean to say I was gorgeous. I meant to say your salmon was gorgeous. GREG (Oops I did it again)
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:29 amWell, so are you. Okay?
Ahu Shahrabani
January 17, 2016 at 2:29 pmI love everything about this! From the well-loved cedar plank to the savory use of pumpkin to how you evolved the recipe! I love salmon as well, I need to get it back in rotation! Thank you for the delicious reminder 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:30 amSalmon is one of our favorites. Just can't get enough of it! Let me know what you think, Ahu!
ChgoJohn
January 17, 2016 at 2:44 pmI'm not a gusto pumpkin lover but I'm not a hater, either. I can take it or leave it. Your vinaigrette, however, is something entirely different. It sounds delicious, David, and pairing pumpkin anything with salmon is completely new for me. This I would stand in line for. A pumpkin latte? Not so much.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:31 amThanks, John – I am with you on the pumpkin latte. Not good. My cousin sent a fun note about pumpkin spiced motor oil… made me laugh!
Cheri Savory Spoon
January 17, 2016 at 8:24 pmHi David, always on the prowl for a good salmon recipe, this looks amazing, I bet pumpkin and salmon are heaven together.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2016 at 1:31 amIt is pretty wonderful, Cheri – hope you get to try it!
Andrea_TheKitchenLioness
January 18, 2016 at 5:37 pmDavid, never occurred to me to combine the lovely flavors of pumpkin and salmon – but looking at your post and your pictures and your recipe, I think you convinced me…seriously, this looks just terrific!
Liebe Grüße, Andrea
Cocoa & Lavender
January 19, 2016 at 3:32 amThanks, Andrea – I think the girls and Thomas would love it, too.
Nicole - RieglPalate.com
January 19, 2016 at 1:51 amDavid – This looks wonderful. I love how you've refined the recipe over so many years. Thank you for sharing!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 19, 2016 at 3:32 amIt is a lot of fun to tinker over the years, Nicole!
laurasmess
January 19, 2016 at 2:53 amThis is so beautiful David. Simple and elegant, a great way to elevate pumpkin into something special! I can imagine using that vinaigrette in many different things, particularly as a topping for roasted field mushrooms (we eat those regularly in my house!). Love hearing how your recipe evolved also. I've never cooked salmon over a plank (that is so cool!) but I do adore smoky, woody flavours in food. We're lucky to be able to benefit from those years of refinement 😉
Cocoa & Lavender
January 19, 2016 at 3:33 amI need to try this on wild mushrooms, Laura – what great idea! I hope you can find a plank someday. Maybe someone in Australia needs to start a cottage industry. I know John at Ne Needs Food wants one, too!
Brooks
January 20, 2016 at 4:25 pmThank you for bringing a savory dish to the pumpkin party. This beautiful, beautiful dish leaves me inspired!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 20, 2016 at 4:54 pmThanks, Brooks! I am glad I was able to inspire you!
Daniela Grimburg
January 21, 2016 at 12:05 amWhat a wonderful and creative gourmet recipe. And I thought I've seen already every pumpkin recipe possible. Love everything about this dish, texture, flavor and colors.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 21, 2016 at 2:37 pmThanks, Daniela – I am glad I could contribute something new to the pumpkin table!
Nuts about food
January 21, 2016 at 11:51 amI love pumpkin but use it much more in savory than sweet recipes: gnocchi, soups, risotto, pasta, curries, appetizers etc. Actually, the only time I used it in a dessert was when I made pumpkin cinnamon rolls with a maple syrup glaze… As you can tell, I am not a fan of pumpkin pie and usually I prefer cutting through the sweetness of the vegetable with savory ingredients. However, I have never used it with fish, so this was an interesting discovery. Love how you show how your recipe evolved over the years.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 21, 2016 at 2:39 pmFiona – I think I remember you saying something about pumpkin on Nuts About Food. I agree – I much prefer the savory, but always feel guilted into making a pumpkin pie every Thanksgiving.
Marcelle
January 22, 2016 at 1:33 amDavid, I'm a huge fan of pumpkin recipes both sweet and savory. This pumpkin-nut vinaigrette looks absolutely beautiful,and delicious!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 26, 2016 at 1:27 pmThanks, Marcelle!
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
January 22, 2016 at 3:25 amIsn't it interesting how recipes evolve?! After the new nutrition guidelines told us to eat way less sugar, I just had some squash with butter and a mere hint of brown sugar instead of my usual packed with brown sugar squash. I really enjoyed it, so I completely believe you on that savory pumpkin stuff…
Cocoa & Lavender
January 26, 2016 at 1:28 pmInger – I think it is funny how the nutrition guidelines change year after year! (And how recipes evolve!) Maybe, in a few years, they will find out that sugar is good for us…
Provence WineZine
January 26, 2016 at 1:16 pmI would never have thought to pair pumpkin and salmon! And would never try a recipe that pairs them–except for one from you! Very interesting!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 26, 2016 at 1:29 pmYou will really love this, Susan! I promise!
Brian
June 1, 2022 at 6:32 pmThis was excellent
Here comes the cliche
It was quick and easy enough for a weeknight, fancy enough for date night and delicious enough for company
Cocoa & Lavender
June 2, 2022 at 4:02 pmThanks, Brian. I love your description of this dish. And it’s all true… I had some leftover butternut squash in the freezer that I had roasted, and I made a version using that instead of pumpkin. It worked beautifully!