I have
been following Elizabeth Minchilli’s blog for quite awhile now. It’s always the
perfect site to visit when I want a virtual moment in Rome.

About
this time four years ago, I was reluctantly planning my first trip to Rome, a
city which held very little appeal for me. I assumed it was just another big
European city with little or no charm.

Mark has
been several times, and studied there for a semester in college. He was so
excited that we were going; he couldn’t wait to show me his Rome, and relive
his memories. He knew I wasn’t over-the-moon about it, but he was confident I
would like it.

Beyond
liking it, I loved it – more than I ever dreamed!

When I
was offered an I opportunity to review Elizabeth Minchilli’s new book, Eating Rome, I didn’t even think twice. I knew her writing from a book we bought when
considering a move to Italy: Restoring a Home in Italy.

I start
my review by saying that this book, Eating Rome, while a guide for Rome, is an
excellent read for anyone considering their first – or fourth or tenth Italy trip. More important to
me than the recipes and beautiful photos is her guide to being there, and her
advice is easily applicable to most places in Italy.

The book
contains all the basics: How and when to order coffee, and why they do it that
way. How to pay for it and then order. Why you knock it back standing at the
counter, and don’t take it to a table. And the cardinal rule: never order
cappuccino (or other dairy-laden coffee drinks) after noon.

She warns
us never to eat on the streets unless: (a) you are seated at a caffè table; (b) you just bought a
slice of pizza bianco; or (c) you have a gelato (cone or cup) in hand.

The book
includes what Italians eat (or don’t eat) for breakfast, behavior in trattorie,
how to stock your pantry like a Roman, and how to shop in the markets. (And why
the phrase 

«Non toccare!» – Don’t touch! – is important to know.)

Some of
her lessons I learned on my own, not knowing I was even learning lessons. To
me, it is instinct that when I find a fruttivendolo (fruit and vegetable
seller) whom I like – whether in Rome or Tucson – I return daily/weekly to
forge a relationship, and would never “cheat” on her/him unless THEY
suggest I go elsewhere for something they dont have. It’s true – in the
market and even restaurants. Mark had told me that if you return, you honor
them with your patronage, and your service and produce will only get better.

“Our” fruit and vegetable dealer at the Campo dei Fiori.

It is a
fun book to read and, with every page, I am transported to my one,
all-too-short week in the Eternal City.

Okay… on to the recipes. Having discovered I love Roman cuisine, I want to make all the recipes in this book. Well, most of them anyway. There are some ingredients that will be
hard to come by in Tucson. Lamb’s pluck, for instance – the lung, liver, and
heart of the lamb – will not be readily available at Trader Joe’s.

As of
this post, I have already made three recipes from this book: the tagliolini al limone; osso buco (Roman-style); and her Amor Polenta, a breakfast cake. Several
of her recipes are already in my regular repertoire of Roman pasta dishes –
spaghetti alla Carbonara, spaghetti cacio e pepe, and orecchiette con cima di rape. Her recipes are simple, elegantly presented, and – above all – authentic.
A note to bakers: she gives both gram and cup measures for her baked goods. I
tested both measurements and found they were not always eye-to-eye. I used my
instincts when deciding which measurement to follow.

On the
subject of pasta, Minchilli tells us she doesn’t actually make her own. If she
needs fresh, she can find it in her neighborhood. Lucky her! Besides, she tells
us, most iconic Roman dishes call for dried pastas. She tells us that, for Carbonara and cacio e pepe, she prefers to use penne or rigatoni; my sources for traditional
Roman cuisine indicate spaghetti when making these two dishes. Really, you can use any form of pasta you like… just don’t tell Nonna!

My one
wish for the book? More photos – of the food and, of course, life in Rome. And
that just makes me want to go back all the more.

Eating Rome is a delightful, beautiful, helpful, and deliciously fresh memoir of an
expat living abroad. I finished the book feeling that I had just had gelato
with Minchilli. Maybe, someday, I will.



Eating Rome, published this month (April 2015) by St. Martin’s Griffin, is available
on Amazon. I was sent a review copy by the publisher for my honest opinion of
the book.

~ David

Tagliolini
al Limone

Elizabeth
Minchilli, Eating Rome
6
tablespoons (80 grams) unsalted butter
finely
grated zest of 2 large untreated lemons
1 pound
(500 grams) fresh tagliolini (recipe follows)
1/2 cup
heavy cream
1/4 cup
finely chopped fresh parsley
Melt
butter in a saut
é pan
large enough to hold the cooked pasta. Add the lemon zest and heat for 1 minute.
Remove from the heat.
Bring a
large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook just until it is
almost done; the pasta will continue to cook as you dress it.
Place the
pan with the butter back on the heat and, using tongs, lift the pasta out of
the water and into the pan with the butter. Stir to combine and gradually add
the heavy cream, letting it thicken slightly. If it gets too thick, use a bit
of the pasta water to thin it out. Serve in heated bowls, topped with parsley.
Serves 4.

Homemade
Pasta 

(my own recipe)



If you
can
t
find fresh pasta for sale, it is easy enough to make. This recipe makes enough
for 4 as a main course, and 8 as a first course. For today
s post, I made a half batch to
serve 2 or 4.
2 cups
“00” flour, plus extra as needed
4 large
eggs, at room temperature
Place
flour on the counter and make a well in the center. Crack in the eggs and,
using a fork, beat the eggs as if making scrambled eggs. Little by little, beat
in the “wall of flour” until you have a very sticky dough. At this
point, abandon the fork and use your hands to finish. Add enough of the
remaining flour to make a firm but pliable dough. Knead for several minutes,
then wrap in plastic wrap and let sit for 20-30 minutes. This resting period
allows for the gluten to develop.
When
ready to roll, cut the ball of dough into 4 pieces. You will notice that the
dough is moister after resting. Take one piece and re-wrap the others until you
are ready to use them. Flatten the piece into a squarish shape. Dust lightly
with flour. Roll the piece through the rollers of a pasta machine at its widest
setting. Fold in thirds and roll again at the same setting. Fold in half and
roll one more time at the widest setting, feeding the fold end into the rollers
first. Change the setting on the machine to one setting narrower. Roll the
pasta through. Dust with flour whenever necessary. Continue rolling, making the
setting narrower each time until you are at the second-to-last setting. Set
your strip of pasta onto a floured board. Repeat this process for the remaining
three pieces of dough.
Change to
the rollers for cutting the pasta, and cut all four pieces of dough into
tagliolini. Dust them with flour and set them on the floured counter to dry for
a few minutes. I tend to “tousle” them now and then to make sure they
aren’t sticking to one another.

This
pasta cooks in about 3 minutes.


“Rome will remain eternally within me.”
(It should be rimarrai… I love typos in graffiti!)


24 Comments

  1. Paula @ Vintage Kitchen

    April 26, 2015 at 9:29 am

    Ah Rome! Italy really. I could go there every single year David. One of my favorite countries in the world by far. What they do to the most humble ingredients turning them into addictive dishes! Love lemon in my pasta. Wonderful review.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 26, 2015 at 3:30 pm

      I know. Paula. We are constantly (playfully) battling with each other every time we plan a trip, as we always want to return to Italy, yet are trying to see other parts of the world… like Buenos Aires, for example!

      Glad the pasta looks good – so simple and flavorful.

      Reply
  2. Daniela Grimburg

    April 26, 2015 at 9:11 pm

    A fantastic Pasta dish and wonderful pics that reminded me so much of the years we spent in Rome.
    I think it's one of the most beautiful cities in the world, but it needs to be discovered bit by bit and it takes time until Rome conquers you – but then- this is a place you will never forget.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 26, 2015 at 9:22 pm

      Daniela – Rome got to my heart almost immediately – it made me rather cross with myself for having avoided it because people said it was "just another big city." That couldn't be further from the truth! How lucky you were to live there!

      Reply
  3. Sippity Sup

    April 26, 2015 at 11:13 pm

    There's something about Rome that has always appealed to me. I've only been once (and not long enough to get the hang of it) but to me it has that big,sprawling, spread out feeling (much like my home town of Los Angeles). I'm sure it's filled with all sorts of unique and separate neighborhoods with their own personalities (just like LA). I wish I could explore them all. GREG

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 26, 2015 at 11:15 pm

      You owe yourself another trip, Greg. There are so many unique neighborhoods, like LA, and each one so incredibly charming. I can't wait to go back myself.

      Reply
  4. Lizzy (Good Things)

    April 27, 2015 at 12:11 am

    Rome is one place I have not yet visited… do love the photos you've shared here, David. And your approach to book reviews. Thank you for the introduction to Elizabeth and her work. Just lovely.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 27, 2015 at 1:17 pm

      Thanks, Liz! I hope you and Peter can plan a trip to Rome someday. I know you will love it.

      Reply
  5. Provence WineZine

    April 27, 2015 at 1:48 am

    I might buy a pasta machine yet! You make it look so easy. This recipe looks very good and the book sounds exactly like one I would like to curl up with, in a big chair, with a latte–before noon! I might buy the book, too! Thanks for a very interesting review and a yummy recipe!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 27, 2015 at 1:19 pm

      I can't believe I haven't pushed you into buying a pasta machine yet. But this week, I am filming making a pasta dough and form that requires no machine. Maybe you will need to practice on that first? (And, Susan – oddly, you were with me the first time I made it!)

      Reply
  6. Andrea_TheKitchenLioness

    April 27, 2015 at 7:59 am

    Dear David, lovely book review and a fabulous reminder of how wonderful Italy is. Although I have never had the pleasure of visiting Rome, I have been to Italy many times – big sigh – it is time to visit again soon!
    Liebe Grüsse an dich und Mark,
    Andrea

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 27, 2015 at 1:20 pm

      Andrea – I wish we all had the time to visit the wonderful places to which our hearts tell us to go. Maybe we just all need to be patient. Yes, a big sigh. David

      Reply
  7. Nuts about food

    April 27, 2015 at 10:40 am

    Funny how certain places, especially when they are loved by all, hold less appeal for us than others… as an adopted Milanese, and because of the rivalry between the two cities, I sometimes tend to feel underwhelmed about Rome too, but as soon as get there I am newly astounded by its beauty and wonder how I ever could have forgotten!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 27, 2015 at 1:22 pm

      It is really interesting to have that perspective form another living in Italy. I have never seen the rivalry between Rome and Milan, but it makes so much sense. The funny thing is that I had heard the same about Milan – not to both going as it is just a big city. I loved it, too. We all see things so differently…

      Reply
  8. john | heneedsfood

    April 28, 2015 at 7:57 am

    You know, I wasn't really captured the first time we went to Rome. The second time, however, I fell in love with it. Can't wait to go back.

    Seeing all this pasta making is making me want to get the pasta roller out. I need to make more of an effort to make pasta, rather than buy it. There's no comparison!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 28, 2015 at 1:19 pm

      Me, too, John. And I hope it is soon for both of us.

      I love making homemade pasta. Partly, there is something therapeutic about doing it even after work. But, as you say, other part is the quality – no comparison.

      Reply
  9. Anonymous

    April 29, 2015 at 11:14 am

    This adorable post made us virtually travel through the beautiful Rome….such spectacular clicks…and what a greatly made homemade pasta…lovely,simple and absolutely yummy,thanks:-)

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 29, 2015 at 2:33 pm

      Thank you, Swikruti and Rakesh! Do you make pasta? What sauces do you use? I am always curious how certain meals are adapted worldwide!

      Reply
    • Kumar's Kitchen

      April 30, 2015 at 2:18 am

      Hi David,we love making our pasta…since we don't consume eggs…they are given a miss…we usually make pasta out of semolina+flour and at times with plain flour….ahhhh the sauces…we love an alfredo or arrabbiata sauce as much as our homely curried TVP soy granules sauce…thanks so much…we will be giving your delicious hazelnut-chocolate a try some time soon….it makes us hungry every single time we visit your blog 🙂

      Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      April 30, 2015 at 3:53 pm

      Arrabiata and Alfredo are definitely favorites of mine, too! And it is funny you should mention semolina pasta. I am making my first video this morning for Cocoa & Lavender – and it is how to make semolina pasta! I love it, too, because it dies and freezes so well, and you can make shapes that don't require a pasta machine. Until today, I had not head of TVP soy granules. I would love to know how you make that curried sauce – it sounds delicious! I make a sauce based on Ottolenghi's – with a spiced saffron butter. There are so many fun things to do with pasta!

      Reply
  10. dedy oktavianus

    April 29, 2015 at 3:22 pm

    i've been tast hundreds kind of pasta before, but never any sort of pasta al limone before, tempting to try!!!
    Dedy@Dentist Chef

    Reply
  11. Colette (Coco)

    May 1, 2015 at 11:01 pm

    D, that pasta looks killer yummy. I see now why the Italians can eat it just with a bit of salt, olive oil and garlic.
    That's exactly how I'd eat that plate of fettuccine!

    Have a great w/end! xo

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      May 2, 2015 at 4:19 pm

      Haha, Colette – luckily, the Italians make lots of good pastas without the garlic for vampires, like me! Thanks for your sweet comment! xo

      Reply

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