Is there such
a thing as too much pasta?
Tradition
holds that, in the 1800s, Italians counted more than 250 different shapes of
pastas, both fresh and dried. That sounds like heaven to me!
Now they report
only 55-60 different shapes, and that just breaks my heart.
Where have
all the pastas gone?
I find it
particularly interesting that each form of pasta also has very specific sauces
that work with its shape. One doesn’t serve clam sauce on farfalle, or orzo
with marinara sauce. It just isn’t done.
This kind of
tradition may not be important to you, but it is very important to Italy and
its people.
Are you
wondering if we, here in the Cocoa & Lavender kitchen, always abide by the
rules? The answer is, “No, not always.”
 |
| Traditionally, this sauce was made in a mortar with a pestle. |
But, confusingly enough,
neither do the Italians. In fact, you may see one sauce served on a variety of
different pasta shapes, depending on the region.
Today’s pasta
sauce recipe is one that, according to the Silver Spoon, is traditionally
served on fettuccine. However, according to Giallo Zafferano, Ligurians serve
it on pansotti, corzette, or trofie. And, then, I found a reference to Tuscans serving
it on penne.
I had penne
in the pantry. I have been to Tuscany. So I made it with penne.
The salsa
itself has a few different versions. It is often made with basil in Liguria,
and I have seen it made simply with walnuts or, like today’s recipe, with a combination
of walnuts and pine nuts.
I think no matter which recipe you use, this cream and nutty sauce with marjoram is
perfect for an autumn evening with friends gathered around the table.
Buon
appetito!
~ David
Penne con
Salsa de Noci
1 large
shallot
1 tablespoon
butter
½ pound
shelled walnuts
½ cup toasted
pine nuts
2½
tablespoons finely chopped marjoram
salt
½ cup ricotta cheese
½ cup extra
virgin olive oil
2 pounds
penne rigate
freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for
serving
chopped
toasted walnuts, for serving
Melt the
butter in a small saucepan. Sauté the
shallot until clear.
Place
shallot, residual butter, walnuts, pine nuts, marjoram and a good pinch of salt
into a the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Pulse until
nuts are finely ground. Add ricotta cheese and 3 tablespoons water; process
until creamy. With processor running, gradually add the olive oil until very
creamy.
Cook the
pasta in salted water, using about 2 heaping tablespoons of salt. When cooked
al dente, drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Place the
pasta in a large bowl and add the walnut sauce. Toss well and add the cooking
water, a little at a time, to reach the perfect creaminess.
Serve with
grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and garnish with a few chopped toasted
walnuts and marjoram leaves.
Serves 12.
 |
Walnut shells make great boats, using a matchstick
a small piece of paper, and candle drippings. |
Sippity Sup
October 31, 2015 at 6:39 pmHere are my guidelines for choosing pasta shapes. They are in no way "authentic" but they work for me "generally".
Tiny shapes: Brothy soup
Medium shapes: Hearty soups such as bean
Short and fat shapes; Chunky sauces
Thin noodles: Light sauces
Flat noodles; Silky sauces
Chewy noodles; Rustic sauces
Of course I break these rules all the time. But still it's fun to think about them.
Your noodles and sauce seem perfectly paired here. Medium, chewy penne with rustic, chunky nut sauce. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:40 pmThat is a great guideline for pasta shapes, Greg! I think it's what happens in my kitchen naturally, or should I say luckily!
magda
October 31, 2015 at 9:50 pmI looove pasta! And yours looks amazing David. Such gorgeous photos you have taken. In Greece we have our own pasta tradition; Greeks eat a lot of it and we make our own kinds of pasta. It's not just the Italians who eat it. Besides, the Chinese invented it 😉 I love however the many kinds they have and it's sad that the variety is no longer what it used to be.
By the way, I don't play by the rules either. It's all matter of taste isn't it?
Happy weekend xox
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:43 pmWouldn't it be great if there were still 250-300 types of pasta, Magda? We would all need bigger kitchens just to store them!
Rules are definitely meant to be broken. Taste (and texture, I would add) mean everything in the end!
Have a great weekend, too! xox
Bizzy Lizzy's Good Things
October 31, 2015 at 10:37 pmLovely recipe… and isn't The Silver Spoon an amazing tome!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:45 pmI do love the Silver Spoon, Liz, especially when seeking a sauce that is new to me. Best resource ever. Also, for my garlic allergy, it allows me to know what I can eat in Italy, and what I should avoid. That is one reason I love that Italians are so traditional!
John - heneedsfood
November 1, 2015 at 12:47 amThe Silver Spoon is an invaluable resource. I made some squid ink pasta from its recipe just last weekend. Perfection!
I think I'll be making this nut pasta dish this week. Sounds and looks delicious!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:46 pmI think you will love it, John! It is flavorful yet very delicate. And I can see it as a filling for ravioli, as well!
Cathleen | My Culinary Mission
November 1, 2015 at 1:25 amI agree, there can never be too much pasta! This sounds delicious, David. I have a whole bag of walnuts (from a previous recipe where I forgot to add them…. how does one forget to add the first ingredient listed? Hahaha.) and some pine nuts. I wonder if this would good with sage in place of the marjoram? I have extra sage in the fridge.
Love the boat!! I can see it now, floating down a rain filled gutter, or small creek. Just may have to make one of those, and bring it on our next rainy day hike. 😉
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:48 pmCathleen – I would definitely try this with sage! The favors will combine nicely! And, since you have everything else… 🙂
Glad you love the boat Mark made. We save walnut shells hoping someday to have our own little armada!
Provence WineZine
November 1, 2015 at 1:34 amFantastic!! It looked so good that we made it tonight! Rich and flavorful, we served it with a red blend of cab and Syrah made by Chateau Pigoudet in Provence ( where else?). David, it will be one of our go-to recipes! We did cut the recipe in half , though . Highly recommend it!!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:50 pmSusan – cutting the recipe in half still gives you so much to work with! And it lasts well in the fridge! I am so happy you and Towny liked it! It is easy and definitely a "keeper" for us, too. We drank it with "whatever was open" which ended up being a Zinfandel from the Central Coast. It was quite nice.
Corbin Smith
November 1, 2015 at 6:39 amYum!!!!!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:50 pmThanks, Corbin!
Paola
November 1, 2015 at 8:24 amLove the use of marjoram in this. I also use the Silver Spoon but lately have found some of the recipes miss the mark – especially cakes and sweets. Never had any problems with the savoury ones though.
And I NEVER worry about the pasta shape
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:52 pmPaola – I find their newer series of books on each region of Italy a bit more reliable in the sweets arena. But for the savory, it is my Food Bible! I am so glad to know you don't worry about the shapes, either. It's nice if you have them, but a.) who has access to them all? and b.) who has room to store them all?
Unknown
November 1, 2015 at 2:18 pmI too love the use of marjoram! And I can virtually taste this dish…delightful for these coming cooler fall days and nights. What resource might be available for an English reader for the info regarding pasta specific salsas? Inquiring minds…
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 2:38 pmMarjoram is one of our favorites, Susan, and it grows well here in the desert! As for the pasta shapes, The Encyclopedia of Pasta by Oretta Zanini de Vita is a great resource for matching pastas with sauce. Happily, but t has been translated into English!
Unknown
November 1, 2015 at 4:44 pmIn view of the latest report from WHO, meat and processed meats are pretty bad for us all, so your recipe is perfect for now. and delicious and simple to make as well. and great for our fall weather up here.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 9:59 pmThanks, Carol – although I can;t imagine that we will all stop eating meats and processed meats, dishes like this are very enjoyable and certainly filling!
Unknown
November 1, 2015 at 8:03 pmPenne is my favorite pasta, and this dish sounds delish! Thanks for the recipe…I will make it soon. And will make the little walnut boats for my grand kids…don't know who will have more fun, myself or them!
And Tuscany is my fav. place in the world!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 10:00 pmWell, Jean, Tuscany is our favorite place to visit, too. We are trying to go to other places (Germany and Austria this year) but it is definitely a struggle not to go tot Tuscany. This is a great dish for all, and the kids will love the boats!
Ahu Shahrabani
November 1, 2015 at 9:16 pmThis looks beautiful! I too am generally a 'rule breaker' when it comes to pairing things. Gorgeous dish, if only I weren't allergic to walnuts!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 10:00 pmI love that you are so bad, Ahu! 🙂 You know, you can make this with a variety of nuts. Try pecans or almonds!
Cheri Savory Spoon
November 1, 2015 at 9:47 pmHi David, love the simplicity of this dish, working on my winter garden, will have to pick up some marjoram to plant next. Supposed to get some rain next week….fingers crossed.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 1, 2015 at 10:01 pmCheri – i was up in Phoenix on Thursday and got quite drenched on the way home – did any of the rain make it as far as you? Fingers crossed for your rain, and I hope you get some marjoram!
I Wilkerson
November 2, 2015 at 2:14 amThis looks amazing. If my marjoram is still alive when I get home tomorrow (alas unlikely since I went out of town without reminding my husband to water my plants) this could happen soon.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 2, 2015 at 1:23 pmIt could work with dried marjoram, Inger! 🙂
Paula @ Vintage Kitchen
November 2, 2015 at 9:16 amI could eat pasta all the time. Adding nuts is sensational, especially pine nuts! Here walnuts are used for filling ravioli and sorrentinos, which are like big rounds of filled pasta. They usually include ricotta and ham. Love this variation in a sauce David, so much easier! Have a great week!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 2, 2015 at 1:24 pmThanks, Paula – I always love hearing about how ingredients are used differently between here and there!
Nuts about food
November 2, 2015 at 9:57 amTrue (about pasta shapes), true (about using what you like) and true (delicious sauce).
Cocoa & Lavender
November 2, 2015 at 1:25 pmThanks, Fiona – it is good to know this from someone living in Italy! 🙂
Paolo
January 8, 2016 at 4:59 amAbsolutely true also from someone who was born and raised in Italy! (Hi Fiona, BTW!)
Love all kinds of pesto, yours reminded me of Pesto alla Trapanese, with almonds. There's something to be said about cold sauces!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 8, 2016 at 1:41 pmI definitely want to try the Pesto alla Trapanese, Paolo. Thanks for your kind comments and for visiting C&L!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
November 2, 2015 at 4:42 pmI remember many years ago saying something about having or serving a certain pasta shape with a certain sauce and my family in Italy almost having a heart attack! As you said, "it's just NOT done"! Yes, they take their shapes and sauces seriously.
I don't abide by the rules all the time; it's a matter of what's on hand, but I think there is a reason for each choice (Gregg at Sippity Sup has got it down)!
I've never had pasta with nuts, but would love to make this dish! I actually bought a bag of walnuts because my daughter is on the other side of the country at school, so I have to use them before she's back at Christmas (nut allergy). Lovely pics as usual, David and I love the walnut shell boat! Haven't seen one of those in YEARS! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
November 3, 2015 at 1:53 pmChristina – I am glad to know I am not the only one to have shocked Italians with my willy-nilly pairings of pasta and sauces! 🙂
I hope you enjoy the walnut sauce while your daughter is away! Can she at least enjoy the boats?
Paolo
January 8, 2016 at 5:03 amItalians break those rules all the time. Often they're not rules at all, they're regional traditions. I grew up in Milan, my mom always made spaghetti al ragu`, which is considered a big no-no in Bologna, which is only about 200 Km away.
It's great finding you here Christina, BTW 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
January 8, 2016 at 1:44 pmPaolo – I heard that same thing form my cugina in Bologna (she was raised in Vermont). She served spaghetti al ragù and was told never to do it again but her friends in Bologna.
Paolo
January 9, 2016 at 5:32 pmThat's funny 🙂 You and your family are deeply connected to Italy, it seems. This explains a lot 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
January 9, 2016 at 6:17 pmSì, Paolo! Soon italiano in spirito! All my Italian family is by marriage, but I pretend it is by blood. 🙂
Paolo
January 10, 2016 at 1:26 am🙂 Hence your Cannolo Award!
Colette (Coco)
November 2, 2015 at 9:50 pmWhat a delicious idea, D. I've been craving nuts in salads and pasta lately. My mom in law just arrived from Australia and I think she'd love this pasta of yours. Can't wait to make it for her. And that li'l walnut shell sailboat is adorable. xo
Cocoa & Lavender
November 3, 2015 at 1:54 pmColette – have a great visit with your mother-in-law! I hope you all enjoy the pasta!
Lois B
November 3, 2015 at 1:19 amHi David, I'm your newest subscriber, stopping by to say I love the look of your blog and can't wait to dig into your posts! I'm delighted to be connected in the blogosphere!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 3, 2015 at 1:55 pmWelcome to Cocoa & Lavender, Lois! I hope we get to meet soon outside the blogosphere, especially as we live in the same city!
Andrea_TheKitchenLioness
November 3, 2015 at 8:06 pmDear David, there is no such thing as too many pasta shapes or recipes – another great one to be enjoyed with the loved ones!
That little sailboat looks quite familiar – the kids make these in school at this time of year when walnut shels are readily available…
Liebe Gruesse,
Andrea
Cocoa & Lavender
November 4, 2015 at 3:12 pmAndrea – I am so glad to know the girls make little walnut boats in school! I think you will all love this pasta.
Amelia
November 4, 2015 at 6:14 amHi David, my first visit to your blog. Excellent blog with very well taken pictures.
Your comfort pasta look really good, thanks for sharing your wonderful recipe. Love the little walnut boat, so cute.
Have a nice day, regards.
Amelia
Cocoa & Lavender
November 4, 2015 at 3:13 pmThank you, Amelia. Welcome to Cocoa & Lavender! I really enjoyed perusing your blog, too – it is fun to get to know new friends!
Nicole - RieglPalate.com
December 4, 2015 at 2:14 amDavid – Yummy! I had no idea that there were once so many pasta shapes. Sadly now that I only eat GF pasta there are very few shapes but at least the pasta tastes pretty good. I love the walnut boats. They would make cute place cards.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 4, 2015 at 3:08 pmAnd this sauce will be good an ANY type/shape of pasta! We love making the walnut boats, too. Great idea about place card holders!