It seems
every time I make fresh pasta, I use a different recipe. With different
proportions. A different procedure. Occasionally there’s a bright color, such
as beet or spinach. Sometimes different flours.
But, when
making ravioli, the type of pasta doesn’t mean as much to me as the stuff
that’s on the inside. The filling makes the ravioli.
You can look
at that statement three ways, really, and they are all important: quality,
balance, and quantity
The first way
is something you have seen here on Cocoa & Lavender quite often: the
quality of your ingredients matter. They define the end product.
If you buy
artisanal cheese, your ravioli will be a work of art. If you use fresh herbs,
you will be able to taste the garden in which they were grown.
Conversely,
if you use processed, low fat cheese and old, dried herbs, you can only imagine
what I’d say you’ll produce. (This is a G-rated blog, after all…)
The second
way – balance – is also key. If your
filling is too wet, you run the risk of making the pasta soggy. If it is too
dry, you can end up with mealy pillows of sawdust.
There is the
flavor balance. For example, too much of an herb can be bitter. The saying is
true: less is more.
Another
aspect of balance lies in the pairing flavors. Respect the integrity of your
ingredients. If your filling is comprised of delicate flavors – fresh cheeses,
for example – be gentle with herbs and spices. If robust – perhaps duck confit
or wild mushrooms – you can be a little more aggressive with the add ins.
The third way
to consider “the filling makes the ravioli” pertains to the quantity
of filling you use. I have seen recipes that call for a heaping tablespoon of
filling, which is fine if your ravioli are the size of a twifler. (A twifler is
a small plate: think hors d’œuvre or salad or desert plate. That is a total
Markipedia reference.)
For a
2 1/2-inch to 3-inch raviolo, you need only a rounded teaspoon of filling. I know
you want more in there, but you will only regret it when all your hard work
breaks into smithereens when it hits the boiling water. Again, less is more. In
fact, that applies to boiling too; don’t. Cook at a rapid simmer not a full
boil!
Today’s
recipe follows all my rules. I used locally-made goat ricotta from Fiore diCapra (one of our local goat cheese artisans), a little fresh marjoram from our garden, and the zest of an organic
lemon. I used Parmigiano Reggiano that wasn’t local, but I used the best I
could buy. And when I stuffed them, I used a rounded teaspoon of filling, and
not a single one broke.
And, you know
what? The ravioli were perfect. If I do say so myself.
Ravioli Caprese
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Design by Themeshift.
Susan Oleksiw
November 28, 2015 at 3:52 pmThey look scrumptious and you make it sound so simple. (I know it isn't.)
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2015 at 3:39 pmBut it is simple, Susan! But (for Michael) definitely not gluten-free!
Bizzy Lizzy's Good Things
November 28, 2015 at 10:04 pmYou are very clever, David! I have yet to delve into the world of filled pasta… though I think I did make some pumpkin ravioli a lifetime ago! Lovely post, thanks!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2015 at 3:40 pmThanks, Liz – I love filling pasta. There are so many possibilities!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
November 28, 2015 at 11:50 pmHear, hear! I love what you said about the ingredients and feel like a broken record (do today's generation even know what that means?) on my own site, as I just keep pushing quality, quality, quality. Sometimes I feel it falls on mostly deaf ears. So many times, people come back to me and tell me their version of my recipe, "didn't taste the same". Only to find out they substituted inferior quality ingredients! Ugh!
Your ravioli DO look perfect and you are totally entitled to say so yourself! 😉
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2015 at 3:42 pmThanks, Christina. I know my love of the best-quality ingredients is shared by you, and many other bloggers. Perhaps someday people will listen… Maybe when we have friends to dinner, each meal should include a blind tasting of ingredients… It would be fun to have each guest understand why we make such a fuss!
John - heneedsfood
November 29, 2015 at 4:04 amYou can come over and make ravioli at my place anytime, David. They're so perfect – inside and out.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2015 at 3:43 pmVery kind, John, and I definitely look forward to cooking together someday, either here in Tucson or there in Sydney!
Paola
November 29, 2015 at 9:16 amLOVE lemon zest in the filling for these – everything tastes better I think.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2015 at 3:44 pmDefinitely, Paola! I love the zing of the zest. Ooh…. That is a good post title!
Sippity Sup
November 30, 2015 at 12:14 amThe sublime pleasure in good ravioli, as you say, may be the filling – but the secret is very thin pasta. Which is why I always fail. I need a doodad with thinness settings like your Atlas. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2015 at 2:23 pmBefore Atlas entered my life, Greg, I used to roll the dough by hand with a rolling pin. It can be done!
Unknown
November 30, 2015 at 2:57 pmAnd the freshly grated nutmeg!
Lovely, David! Thank you for this beautiful post!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 30, 2015 at 3:25 pmFreshly grated makes such a difference, doesn't it, Susan? Glad you enjoyed the post – looking forward to your return!
Ruth
December 1, 2015 at 12:35 amThis looks so delicious David, I've pinned it so I can go back to it later. Young did a full day pasta making course last weekend at a Tasmanian cooking school (including milking a goat to ale his own ricotta!) so perhaps I should send it his way…
Cocoa & Lavender
December 1, 2015 at 1:36 pmRuth, I definitely think you need to send this to Young! I love that he took the class – and I hope you and Tom benefit from it often!
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
December 1, 2015 at 3:16 pmTruly amazing! Pasta (other than my grandma's egg noodles which I do annually) has been on my must try list for far too long.
Do you have marjoram growing outside next to your rosemary (she asks, full of herb-envy)? My 2 year old potted marjoram plant just died 🙁
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2015 at 2:24 pmInger, I am very fortunate that our herbs – with the possible exception of basil, weather depending – make it through the winter. I love fresh marjoram – such an underrated herb!
Unknown
December 1, 2015 at 8:16 pmHi David! How are you my friend? Sorry I haven't visited in aeons but work took everything out of me. I finally have a short break for the holidays somim trying to catch up with friends.
Your ravioli looks beautiful, and some great tips too. I went all summer without using even a leaf of my marjoram. The last cold snap took care of it.
I have a brand new pasta machine that I bought last Black Friday and it still hasn't been opened. Fancy coming over and taking it for a roll?
Nazneen
Cocoa & Lavender
December 2, 2015 at 2:26 pmNazneen – so good to hear from you! I know you are busy – but it is comforting to know that you are there even when quiet! Mark loves marjoram and asks me to use it often – we are lucky to have it year-round.
Someday, it would be a blast to cook together… maybe I will get to come to CO this year and we can play! In the meantime, get out that pasta machine and start playing!
Andrea_TheKitchenLioness
December 2, 2015 at 8:07 pmDear David, what an elegant recipe – everything just falls into place perfectly…pasta making has a certain calming effect, especially if the end resut is as picture perfect as your beautiful Ravioli Caprese.
Liebe Grüße,
Andrea
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2015 at 2:44 pmThanks, dear friend! I do love making pasta – there is something so tactile about it, and it does make me feel peaceful!
Marcelle
December 3, 2015 at 5:13 pmthis is a gorgeous post! Ravioli and other stuffed pasta are one of my biggest weaknesses, and yours look perfect and that filling looks ah-mazing!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2015 at 5:36 pmThanks, Marcelle! I love making ravioli, and this is my new favorite filling! Maybe I will get some play time around the holidays to make some other new flavors!
Colette (Coco)
December 3, 2015 at 6:44 pmMarjoram is such a lovely herb, all too often overlooked.
This ravioli is gorgeous, David. Maybe I'll brave the pasta machine and try making this from scratch as you have! xoxo
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2015 at 7:02 pmYou definitely should, Colette! It's really tasty!
Provence WineZine
December 7, 2015 at 4:33 pmSimple but elegant….looks so good. You mentioned duck confit, have you made them with duck confit?
Cocoa & Lavender
December 7, 2015 at 6:06 pmYes, Susan – I have filled ravioli with duck confit and they are amazing. You and Towny definitely need to try them!
Paolo
January 8, 2016 at 4:53 amBeautiful post, and couldn't agree more on the simplicity!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 8, 2016 at 1:39 pmThanks, Paolo. It still amazes me when people think good food needs to be complicated.
Nuts about food
January 22, 2016 at 9:29 amThey look perfect! And the Italian in me is saying that in this case it is a good thing that the parmigiano reggiano wasn't local… because it wouldn't have been the same!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 24, 2016 at 11:16 pmThanks, Fiona!