Ten years ago, I posted a recipe I created in homage to a dish I had in Santa Fe in 1994. I’ve always liked my recipe but, all along, felt it lacked just a little something. 

For one thing, there was no sauce. At some point in the late 90s I started roasting it with canned diced tomatoes, but that just didn’t do it. It got gloppy, and I really dislike gloppy. Happily, I have fixed the sauce issue with today’s version.

To get the enhanced flavor I was seeking, in addition to the sauce, I thought perhaps the tenderloin needed to be seared before roasting. That turned out to be a disaster because (spoiler alert) chocolate is a main ingredient and it ended up burned and bitter… and the interior of the pork was still flavorless.

Then, just last week, it hit me — I realized that brining the tenderloins for a couple of hours with a few simple ingredients (salt, brown sugar, spices) would do the trick. The meat was succulent and flavorful, and the pan sauce was perfect. I can honestly say now, “I’m done tinkering.” (But check back in 10 years, just in case.)

We had a zoom dinner with Susan (Provence WineZine), Towny, and Lisa on the East Coast, and made the pork together in our separate kitchens. We paired this dish with a wonderful Syrah-Grenache blend (Clos de Caveau Vacqueyras); you can read about it on the Provence WineZine. Our side dish was the Potato-Pumpkin Mash that we had in Sicily; for this version I added a heaping teaspoon of cumin. The mash can be made in advance and reheated.

~ David

37 Comments

  1. Peg

    February 5, 2022 at 8:09 am

    How did you know I’d just bought pork tenderloins? This sounds delightful and I can’t wait to try it!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 5, 2022 at 11:53 am

      I have a very uncanny sixth sense when it comes to food, Peg! 🙂

      Reply
  2. John / Kitchen Riffs

    February 5, 2022 at 9:02 am

    I’m rarely done tinkering with recipes. 🙂 Anyway, this looks wonderful! Very interesting dish with a lot of flavors working together. Pork tenderloin can be a bit meh — this recipe is anything but. Really good — thanks.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 5, 2022 at 11:54 am

      I’m pretty much the same way, John, but I have been working on this one for almost 30 years, so I think it’s time to say, “Done!“ I really like pork tenderloin, but you are so right… It can be boring. Finding ways to make it flavorful is so important.

      Reply
  3. Ron

    February 5, 2022 at 9:08 am

    I believe any dish 10 years in the making has to be a great dish and this looks amazing. Thanks for the chocolate substitution tip.
    It’s such fun trying to duplicate a great dish that one has experienced and even more fun if there is no recipe or direction. But, I haven’t had the patients to stay on a dish for 10 years, very impressive, David.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 5, 2022 at 11:54 am

      Well, Ron, truth be told, this is actually almost 30 years in the making! 10 years ago was simply the last version… I do love tinkering with recipes, and I very rarely make anything twice the same way… I imagine it’s the same in your household, right?

      Reply
      • Ron

        February 7, 2022 at 8:04 am

        Yep, for the most part, dishes in our house are always changing. The problem is that I sometimes forget to notate the changes and then can’t repeat the improved taste.

        Reply
        • Cocoa & Lavender

          February 8, 2022 at 1:30 am

          That sounds pretty familiar, Ron. Once I started blogging, though, I got much better at making those little cryptic notes to help me out the next time I make the dish.

          Reply
  4. Jill Becker

    February 5, 2022 at 10:11 am

    Looks delicious. Must add to my “must make” file. Wasn’t this in Reciprocity??

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 5, 2022 at 11:55 am

      Oh, yes! I am sure this was in recip(e)rocity many years ago. It’s been a regular in my kitchen for years. I hope you and Dave like it!

      Reply
  5. Gerlinde

    February 5, 2022 at 1:08 pm

    I think that all of us that love like to tinker with recipes. I never make pork tenderloin but your recipe looks great.

    Reply
    • Gerlinde

      February 5, 2022 at 1:10 pm

      Oops, for those of us that love to cook

      Reply
      • Cocoa & Lavender

        February 6, 2022 at 6:22 pm

        Yes, tinkering with our recipes is a lot of fun! I need to send you a private email, Gerlinde — I don’t seem to be getting your posts any longer. For a while, I thought you weren’t blogging. But I seem to find you back online and I miss getting your posts.

        Reply
  6. Eha

    February 5, 2022 at 3:30 pm

    It seems almost unfair to go into the kitchen and use the fruits of a decade’s work by by another person to have a very different but unctuous dish on my plate ! A very interesting cornucopia of ingredients in the sauce . . . somehow ‘Mexican’ resonated in my brain ere I came upon the whole list . . . oh, am fascinated enough to try next week ! Am not a potato lover but potato and pumpkin mash seems to have become very popular hereabouts so shall make the full dish. Thanks . . .

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 6, 2022 at 6:24 pm

      I really do think you will like this, Eha. It’s A great combination of flavors, and, as you said, the pumpkin with the potato and caramelized onions is a really nice accompaniment.

      Reply
  7. Gaelen

    February 5, 2022 at 5:53 pm

    We adore brining over here. Just about every protein is treated to this bath and dried for a while before cooking. I can’t wait to try your recipe.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 6, 2022 at 6:24 pm

      Let me know what you and Steve think! I can’t wait for you to try it.

      Reply
  8. Frank @Memorie di Angelina

    February 6, 2022 at 6:42 am

    I mostly avoid pork tenderloin except for the occasional breaded cutlet. But brining followed by a rub sounds like a clever way to make an otherwise dry and bland cut of meat both juicy and flavorful.

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 6, 2022 at 6:25 pm

      Until today, I never realized how people felt about pork tenderloin. I guess the trick is to making it flavorful and interesting. Thanks for thinking that mine is, Frank!

      Reply
  9. sippitysup

    February 6, 2022 at 10:21 am

    To be always evolving is the key to happiness in lifr. I mean in the kitchen… GREG

    Reply
    • sippitysup

      February 6, 2022 at 10:22 am

      That’s “life”. Sometimes I think faster than I type. GREG

      Reply
      • David Scott Allen

        February 6, 2022 at 6:13 pm

        I totally get it! I do that all the time…

        And, yes, definitely in the kitchen!

        Reply
  10. Jean | Delightful Repast

    February 6, 2022 at 12:14 pm

    David, what a wonderful dish! And I love that it’s a 10-year-do-over. We who love to cook are never happier than we’re tinkering with recipes. And the tinkering clearly paid off in this case.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      February 6, 2022 at 6:14 pm

      It really did pay off, Jean. Like I said, I’ve been making this recipe for almost 30 years, and it took a lot of tinkering to get it where it is. Glad you like it!

      Reply
  11. Ronit Penso Tasty Eats

    February 6, 2022 at 2:38 pm

    This definitely looks like a winner, and worth all the years of experimenting.
    I always add some Mexican chocolate to my chili con carne, so I know I would love this dish. 🙂

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      February 6, 2022 at 6:15 pm

      It can be a great addition to many different things, Ronit: chili, ragĂą, and more! I bet your chili is incredible!

      Reply
      • Ronit Penso Tasty Eats

        February 9, 2022 at 11:03 pm

        The chili version I’ve posted in my blog is also one that’s been on the making for some time. I’m quite happy with it – at least for now… Maybe it’ll also get a remake at some point! 🙂

        Reply
  12. Inger

    February 7, 2022 at 6:24 am

    Yum! I so know the feeling that a dish has real potential just needs something. Kudos to you for actually perfecting it!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 7, 2022 at 9:31 am

      But was it too embarrassing to admit it has taken me almost 30 years?

      Reply
  13. Susan Manfull

    February 7, 2022 at 7:41 am

    I can confirm that this dish is outstanding! And it pairs beautifully with the Syrah-Grenache blend produced by Clos de Caveau in Vacqueyras, France. As you may remember reading above, my husband and I made this meal along with David via Zoom. My sister-in-law, who was also at the table that evening, wondered if the same rub could be used on another meat. David suggested turkey. We tried the variation a couple weeks later and… it was divine!

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 7, 2022 at 9:32 am

      I’m so glad the turkey suggestion worked, Susan! While not a fan of that winged creature, I know so ,any who are — this could be the “next” popular Thanksgiving rub!

      Reply
  14. Raymund

    February 10, 2022 at 6:18 pm

    I usually do the same thing, always try to revisit my old recipes and give it some tweaks. Certainly experience over the years would give a different result from now compared to what was created more than 10 years ago. Such an elegant dish David

    Reply
    • Cocoa & Lavender

      February 12, 2022 at 9:43 am

      Thanks, Raymund! Wouldn’t be fun to do side-by-side tastings of our original recipe and the most up-to-date versions?

      Reply
  15. Valentina

    February 16, 2022 at 2:09 pm

    Isn’t it the most satisfying feeling to get a recipe exactly how you want it after a lot of experimentation? I love it.
    I’m in love will every single flavor in this dish. And I bet the sweetness from the pumpkin is perfect with all of the spices in the pork. It’s on my “to make” list! 🙂 ~Valentina

    Reply
  16. sherry

    February 21, 2022 at 7:04 pm

    i love pumpkin/potato mash! but sorry, not so keen on pork. I just can’t do it:) I’m sure you’ve read on my blog that hubby and i can’t eat it. Long pig!! Cannibals etc…

    Reply
  17. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodDinner with Friends - Provence WineZine

    March 5, 2022 at 7:13 am

    […] When considering a pairing for a wine that is 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, I know that I want food that has a bit of spice. It really accentuates the flavors in the wine. Coincidentally, I was working on the reboot of a recipe I created back in the mid-90s: Cinnamon Chile Chocolate Pork. Both Susan and I thought it would make a great pairing with the Vacqueyras. You can find the recipe Cocoa & Lavender. […]

    Reply

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