I bet you are thinking, “I’m glad they only spent a week in Sevilla!” Honestly, there was so much to do, see, and eat — we only scratched the surface, and definitely want to return. Today, I share with you those things that didn’t fit under the earlier categories.
Parque María Luisa
This park is a beautiful and shady retreat for the citizens of Sevilla. It is comprised of a square half mile of allées shaded by sycamores, palms, elms, pines, and oranges, ornamented throughout by beautiful flower beds, tiled benches, ponds, fountains, and pavilions. You can hire a horse and carriage or pedal-powered surrey to tour the park
The land for the park was donated to the city in 1893 by the Infanta Luisa Fernanda, Duchess of Montpensier. The reimagined park we see today was designed in 1911 by French landscape architect Jean-Claude Nicolas Forestier, conservator of the promenades of Paris. The park includes many handsome pavilions for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, the most prominent of which is the Plaza de España.
Plaza de España
The Plaza de España was designed in a romantic Renaissance/neo-Moorish-style with a central building in the middle of a semicircular arcade with a magnificent tower at either end. Along with the park, this is a favorite destination for Sevillanos and tourists alike. It includes a large canal in front where small boats can be rented.
It was designed by Anibal Gonzalez to impress visitors with the talents and crafts of the local Sevillanos. It is decorated with beautiful molded terra cotta and brick, paneled and painted ceilings, but especially dazzling tile work. In each section of the curved arcade, between columns, are homages to regions of Spain in alphabetical order — except Sevilla, which is at both ends. You can see the tiles for Sevilla, Granada, and Córdoba above. Sadly the exposition (Expo 29) was not a success due to the depression.
The Markets
Sevilla has quite a few nice markets. The three we visited, which all included restaurants for tapas or more formal dining, were:
Mercado de Triana
Mercado de Triana — this is a bustling market with all variety of food stalls. Daily from 8:00am-6:00pm, except Sundays from 9:00am-6:00pm.
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Mercado de la Encarnación
Mercado de la Encarnación — Probably best known for the architecture of the building that houses it, Las Setas (the mushrooms). The market is on the street level and is really quite nice, though not all the stalls were open at the hour we were there. Monday through Saturday, 8:00am-3:00pm; closed Sundays.
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Mercado del Arenal
Mercado del Arenal — while the smallest of the three markets (in terms of purchasing groceries), it had really wonderful vendors inside and in the arcade just outside the main door. Sunday and Monday, 9:00-7:00, Tuesday through Saturday 9:00am-12:00am. (Produce only on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Sundays.)
And to Eat?
We mostly cooked and dined in our beautiful Airbnb, but also dined out at a few special places recommended by our hosts:
Arroceria Criaito
Arrocería Criaito Triana (Plaza del Altozano, 41010 Sevilla). This very busy restaurant in the center of the Mercado de Triana. It is well known for its paella, even though paella originated in Valencia, it is widely popular elsewhere now. There is an “indoor” section to the restaurant, but we ate “outside” at a table in one of the broad market corridors. I highly recommend you request a table outside by the kitchen window whence you can watch the chefs make paella. It’s fascinating and I learned a lot from the show! If in season, order the artichokes — they are sautéed with shrimp and are amazing. (Sorry I forgot to take a photo of the paella before we attacked it!)
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Bar La Cantina
Bar La Cantina (Calle de la Feria, 98A, 41003 Sevilla). This is a simple seafood tapas bar. It isn’t fancy, but the food is excellent. It is very hard to find – down an alley behind a church tower — so don’t be surprised if you go around the block a couple times.
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Bar El Comercio
El Commercio (Calle Lineros, 9, 41004 Sevilla). These were definitely the best churros with chocolate we had while in Spain. Aside from being really good, the atmosphere feels truly local.
Street Art By now, you know my passion for street art. I seem to have zeroed in on three specific artists: two who are new to me, and one that I knew from Tuscany (the center two).
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Susan Manfull
December 13, 2022 at 4:25 amYour posts certainly inspire a trip to the South of Spain! Breath-taking photos and yummy descriptions of meals! Do you have a favorite among the three?
Cocoa & Lavender
December 13, 2022 at 8:46 amOh, Susan — so hard to pick a favorite when they were all good. I loved the atmosphere of Bar El Comercio (and wish we had gone back again!), the octopus with potatoes and paprika-laced may at La Cantina was really good, but perhaps our table at Criaito was my favorite because we got to watch the chefs cook as we sat and watched from our table.
Donn Poll
December 13, 2022 at 8:38 amThank you thank you thank you…. we get on a plane TODAY and will have a toast to you in Bar el Comercio tomorrow.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 13, 2022 at 8:43 am¡Buenos viajes, amigos! Write if you have any questions with which we can help.
Mad Dog
December 13, 2022 at 11:32 amMore fabulous pictures! El Comerico looks like my kind of bar. Aside from the look, vermut de la casa for €1.70 is a bargain.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 13, 2022 at 1:22 pmAgreed, Mad Dog — I am still kicking myself for not going back for the vermut de la casa.
Eha
December 13, 2022 at 2:58 pmMay I also say thank you, thank you, thank you . . . this is almost like an early Christmas present and a wondrous lesson of what there is ! Hmmm – should look at the history first but am back to the markets . . . ours somehow lack that je-ne-sais- quoi 🙂 !
Cocoa & Lavender
December 13, 2022 at 9:46 pmThe markets made me so happy, Eha — the cultures in which the farmer and the rancher have respect is a culture in which I belong!
Marian Jensen
December 13, 2022 at 8:40 pmMany thanks for these amazing posts, David. They will be a fantastic resource when we travel to Spain.
I love street art, too. The two Las Meninas characters made me laugh out loud!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 14, 2022 at 9:22 amYes, I love the two Blub pieces that used Las Meninas. I love his (her?) art and we have seen a lot in Tuscany where they live. There is good street art everywhere, and both Mark and I collect it.
Chef Mimi
December 14, 2022 at 6:47 amWhat a trip. These photos are incredible. It’s like Italian architecture on acid. And the food looks mighty fine as well. I’m always a sucker for octopus. Pun not intended. What a beautiful time you had.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 14, 2022 at 9:23 amThanks, Mimi — I imagine it would be difficult to take a bad photo of these places. The food was amazing and, I am with you on the octopus, with or without any intended or unintended pun.
Ron
December 14, 2022 at 8:52 amLet’s meet at Bar La Cantina, then we could go shopping at the markets for dinner.
A lovely post David, I think I could get lost in the markets. You’ve inspired me to travel South. Thanks for sharing your and Mark’s journey…
Cocoa & Lavender
December 14, 2022 at 9:24 amThat is pretty much how we travel, though I usually start my day at the market and then eat my way through the city from there. 🙂 Thanks, Ron, for all your kind comments!
sherry
December 14, 2022 at 5:57 pmit all looks a bit overwhelmingly amazing david! love the look of Las Setas!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 15, 2022 at 12:44 amIt’s an incredible structure, Sherry — lots of public spaces for performance and such.
Fran @ G'day Souffle
December 15, 2022 at 1:35 pmThose Churros at Bar El Comercio look wonderful! Were you able to see any Flamenco performances? (I still have my flamenco skirts that I bought in Madrid)!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:17 amThose were our favorite churros and chocolate, and I would go back in a heartbeat! We saw quite a bit of flamenco dancing on the streets and in parks. It was wonderful.
Raymund
December 15, 2022 at 3:12 pmNice, I love going to markets when on a holiday, its a good way to explore their cuisine and discover new things to eat. Really nice post
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:16 amOne of the criteria for any place we stay is making sure that we are near a good market. It’s my favorite thing to do when I’m traveling…
Pauline
December 16, 2022 at 12:15 amChurros, paella, octopus, tapas, what wonderful food David to revel in. 2023 resolution, to make paella. The buildings are incredible and all of your photos are perfect, however your colourful cover photo of the fans I think, is beautiful enough to be framed. Having a whole week to explore Sevilla was essential wasn’t it? Surely you’ve got another story tucked away for later? Happy festive season to you both.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:16 amThank you so much! And I wish you and your family a very happy holiday season, as well. I love seeing all the fans in Seville… There were so many different colors and varieties! As you know by now, I’m sending more stories on about Córdoba. I think I have at least two or three more coming…
Jean | Delightful Repast
December 16, 2022 at 2:04 pmDavid, thank you for taking us along on your travels with your beautiful photography and prose. What a city! I’d especially like to visit that park and market. In case you haven’t yet followed me on Google Friends (in the sidebar), I just a posted something you might like!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:14 amI saw your post of the canelés, but I cannot figure out how to do Google friends! (Why do they let old people use technology!?)
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
December 17, 2022 at 1:19 pmI’m definitely not thinking that. Especially since I’m hoping to get to Spain next year and Sevilla and Andalucía is at the top of my list of places to visit. Once again, gorgeous stuff. Nice to know that there’s so much to see you could spend a week there and still have a reason to return.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:10 amThanks. Frank — because I continue to bombard you more Spain! I rea;ly could go back right now.
Paula
December 17, 2022 at 1:44 pmA week is never enough for getting to know Spain! I look at the pictures and want to be there right now, eating and joining the good ambiance that permeates everything. Did you see any Flamenco? My father and his wife say Sevilla has the best they ever saw. You definitely have to go back for the churros lol!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:09 amWe managed to see some flamenco in each city — but not in a hall. There was so much of it happening in parks and on the streets – we loved it!
Jeff the Chef
December 18, 2022 at 5:29 amWhat a wonderful vacation you had! And the weather looks to have been perfect. Staying in an air bnb sounds like such a cool way to travel.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 9:03 amWe have been staying in apartments or houses for years now — I really do think it heightens our experiences!
2pots2cook
December 20, 2022 at 6:25 amYou brought us a lot of Andalusian passion these days and I really consider to go there again. Thank you David!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 8:57 amEven with the crowds, I really think it is worth going back!
The-FoodTrotter
December 22, 2022 at 4:28 amThank you for this beautiful visit of Sevilla! This city was just a shock! So much ancient medieval beauty drowned into a lush tropical vegetation and a hint or Islamic art… It’s such a confusing but majestic place at the same time! 😮
Cocoa & Lavender
December 26, 2022 at 8:51 amI had no idea what I was in store for, Romain — I loved every minute and cannot wait to return. Glad you enjoyed the virtual visit.
Valentina
December 29, 2022 at 2:20 pmOnce again, an incredible trip traveled vicariously through your beautiful photos. The tile! So amazing! And the food! I could spend hours in that Mercado. The Plaza de España is so incredible! So happy you experienced all of this beauty and deliciousness! 🙂 ~Valentina
John
December 29, 2022 at 7:21 pmIt’s such an amazing city, isn’t it? We barely scratched the surface on our visit, so thank you for showing me places I’d previously visited, and ones I hadn’t got to.
Inger
February 2, 2023 at 6:34 amSuch beautiful shots! The first is a great graphic image. What fun!
Cocoa & Lavender
February 6, 2023 at 8:12 amThat painting is one of my favorites I have ever seen. I am glad everyone is enjoying it so much!