When I first visited Morocco 33 years ago, I fell for the city of Fes immediately. (NB – Fes can also be spelled Fès — the French spelling — and fez usually refers to the hat.)Though I enjoyed each city we visited, and have particularly wonderful memories of a night in the High Atlas Mountains with an Amazigh (Berber) family, there was something magical about Fes; it felt comfortable, as if somehow I already knew it. When I returned two years ago, I felt very much the same, so we decided on a slightly extended stay in Fes this past May.
I enjoy visiting a place that feels like “home.” I’ve come to know the city fairly well and often lie in bed exploring the streets of Fes in my mind. Anyone who has been to Fes has walked among the lively souks on the Talaa Sghira and Talaa Kbira, the two main thoroughfares that traverse the medina. But it is when you venture off those two streets that you truly find the magic.
Within the roughly square-mile perimeter of the old city’s immense rammed earth walls, there are reputed to be over 9,600 streets and lanes. Among its narrow and almost silent passages, you might stumble across a family-run weaving fondouk, or a small sandwich shop that sells the most incredible kebab sandwiches, or a community bakery redolent of freshly baked khobz, or an herboriste whose shop isn’t fancy but her family recipe for ras el hanout spice mix is distinct from any others. Once, we came across a group of international architecture students surveying passersby about their ideas for filling a vacant spot, a delightful experience.
That said, it is on those two main streets that you find some of the most incredible architectural gems from the 14th century — the Al-Attarine Madrasa, and a water clock that kept time so the Imam knew when to chant the call to prayer from the minaret of the Bou Inania Mosque across the street. On the Talaa Kbira, you can glimpse inside the Al Keraouine University and Mosque, founded in the mid-9th century.
On my first visit, I stayed in the incomparable Hotel Palais Jamaï, perhaps the most beautiful hotel I then had seen. It closed years later, but is now under renovation and restoration to be reopened soon. However, if you want a place to stay that feels like “home,” definitely seek out to Riad Myra, located in the west end of the medina, and a few minutes’ walk to the Talaa Kbira and Talaa Sghira.
When we entered this riad two years ago, it took our breath away for its beauty. A grand two-story courtyard, sheathed in zellij, with comfortable sitting and dining areas around a rose petal-filled fountain in the center. When you enter, any stress you feel in your life seems to dissipate.
But the beauty is just the beginning. It is the staff and the ethos of the riad that create the magic. I had an opportunity to sit down with the owner, Abbey Chab, to learn more about why this particular riad feels the way it does. (Note: I am writing this because I love Riad Myra; I was not asked to write about it, and received no compensation for this piece.)
The riad, originally named Dar Bennani, was built at the end of the 19th century as the house of a nobleman. When Chab purchased it in 2001, it was a shell. It was one floor with six rooms (four on the main floor and two in a mezzanine for staff). A couple of columns remained, and no fountain; it was a mess. With incredible foresight, Chab envisioned the second floor, which took five years to realize, and myriad other changes and upgrades that bring us to 2025. The riad now boasts 18 beautifully-appointed guest rooms, a rooftop terrace to enjoy at most any time of year, a hammam, and an elegant bar and lounge. (Wishing I had taken advantage of the hammam… next time.) Plans for the future? An elevator. Not just any elevator but a Swiss elevator that is silent, so as not to disturb anyone’s peace.
Chab comes to his vision naturally. His father was in the hospitality industry as well, having worked at two of the best hotels in Morocco: the Palais Jamaï (where he spent much of his youth) and the iconic Hotel La Mamounia in Marrakech. Chab knew from his father that the quality of the guests’ experiences is what makes a place memorable. He said, “There needs to be three things to make guests happy: a comfortable bed, good sheets, and a great shower.” Indeed, Riad Myra offers all three — and quite a bit more. The cuisine at the riad was outstanding — breakfasts were abundant and the dinners (order in the morning for the evening) were spectacular, including the Trid à la Façon Fassi. Our four nights felt way too short in this beautiful space.
What does Chab want people to know about the riad? “It is a family.” The staff have stayed with him for many years and, in some cases, decades. “There is no boss here; we are all workers.” The warmth of the managers and staff gives you a sense of welcome like no other, and each takes pride in the customer experience — they are there to help you at every turn. Chab wants the riad to be a place of tranquility and relaxation: the trickle of the fountain, the pots of greenery in the courtyard, and an overall sense of quietude. When you come to Riad Myra, Chab shares, “You come home to family.”
Mohammed and Ibrahim on the left; owner Abbey Chab on the right
Places to visit in Fes:
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Carolyne
June 25, 2025 at 5:25 amThank you for the description of Fez and the beautiful Riad. I have bookmarked this for a future visit to Morocco.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 6:15 amThanks, Carolyne — hit me up anytime for additional recommendations in this beautiful country!
FEL!X
June 25, 2025 at 5:37 amWould like to to be there once more…
Thank you David to take us with you to the Maghreb!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 6:15 amIt’s a magical place, isn’t it Felix? I’m glad you enjoyed this brief visit.
angiesrecipes
June 25, 2025 at 5:59 amwow so beautiful and exotic! I want to live in that bathroom…LOL
Thank you for the wonderful tour, David.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 6:16 amHaha — I can fit our entire living room in that bathroom! The place is incredible. Glad you enjoyed the mini tour!
Mad Dog
June 25, 2025 at 6:47 amHow beautiful – what a lovely holiday!
David Scott Allen
June 25, 2025 at 6:49 amThanks, Mad Dog — it was really great to see Andalucía and Morocco in the same trip — so much shared history, art, and architecture.
Barb
June 25, 2025 at 7:12 amBeautiful photos of a fascinating place! You have a way of describing places that makes a reader feel as if they are there! The Riad Myra is exquisite! Thanks for taking the time to create this lovely medley to share with your friends.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 7:33 amThanks, Barb — I wish I could magically transport you there. But maybe I’ll “get you there” through some upcoming recipes!
Renee Plummer
June 25, 2025 at 7:54 amthank you David!
I needed your guide today. you took me away for a brief moment.
Renee
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 8:07 amI am so glad I was able to do that, Renee — sending hugs to you.
Colette Joseph
June 25, 2025 at 8:53 amI felt like I was there w you! One day, perhaps….
David Scott Allen
June 25, 2025 at 9:11 amI hope you do make it, Colette! Thanks for coming along with me.
Jeff Penn
June 25, 2025 at 12:31 pmThese photos bring back fond memories. And they are amazing photos – capturing the look and feel of the city and the streets. While I loved every part of Morocco, I do remember Fez as a jewel. It has only been 5 years and we are desperate to get back there for the food, the charm and the people. Thank you so much for your sharing your life so generously.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 3:26 pmI am so glad this brought back such fond memories, Jeff — we just love Fes, although the entire country is pretty wonderful. I am tryig to get out some posts with Moroccan food — coming in the next month or so!
Jill
June 25, 2025 at 3:02 pmStunning…thank you for sharing.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 25, 2025 at 3:26 pmThanks, Jill — so glad you enjoyed it!
Susan Manfull
June 25, 2025 at 5:37 pmWonderful photos that really capture the spirit of Fes, as do your words.So alluring!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2025 at 8:44 amWe had such a wonderful time there with you. I am glad you enjoyed the post!
Raymund
June 25, 2025 at 7:15 pmWhat a beautiful piece, I could feel the magic of Fes through your words. It’s rare to find a place that wraps around you like home, and you’ve captured that feeling perfectly. Riad Myra sounds like an absolute gem. I’ll definitely keep it in mind if I ever make it to Morocco!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2025 at 8:44 amI really hope you make it to Morocco, Raymund — it is a gem of a country!
Mimi Rippee
June 26, 2025 at 12:16 amWe were just there a few weeks ago! Beautiful. And such lovely people. And the food!!!! Our trip just finished yesterday in Tunis. Another beautiful city with such charm. I hope you make it there also. Nice to be back blogging!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2025 at 8:48 amSo sorry we missed you! Wouldn’t it have been fun to have out first meeting be accidental in Fes? Tunis is on our list… so many places, so little time!
sherry
June 26, 2025 at 1:14 amthis all sounds absolutely stunning David. Yes i agree about the bed and the sheets! And how wonderful to have warm and caring staff. the architecture everywhere is just so lovely. What a fab trip you must have had.
sherry
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2025 at 8:48 amThanks so much, Sherry. “Fab trip” doesn’t even begin to cover it!
Emily
June 26, 2025 at 9:39 amDavid, these photos are simply stunning and makes me eager to visit as soon as possible, thank you for sharing your adventures!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2025 at 10:00 amI am very excited for your future trip, Emily — and look forward to helping you figure it all out!
Eha Carr
June 26, 2025 at 2:52 pmI am laughing and cursing at the same time even ere my breakfast has reached me – I just found this in my ‘junk’ folder – first time ever from you! Fate has a ‘funny’ sense of humour since this description and your photos are just priceless! Have not been, would so have loved to see all this and can very well understand your love affair. Beautiful riad, and since two of my girlfriends run such in Marrakesh, I have seen the insides of plenty. Love both the bedroom and the bathroom and the rooftop terrace is bigger and more luxurious than most I have seen. Clever ‘lucky ducks’ you 🙂 !
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2025 at 4:49 pmThanks, Eha — we do, indeed, feel quite lucky! 3 weeks in Morocco simply wasn’t enough — we may need to go back A1
Pauline McNee
June 27, 2025 at 4:25 pmDavid, How wonderful to feel so comfortable and at home in such an exotic, magical and beautiful destination. I am a little bit late in replying because I wanted to have the time to enjoy every word you wrote, and absorb the photos, and I did. Your photos are really good, and how I would love to be transported to The Riad without the necessity for all the long haul travel from here down under. A beautiful piece describing a magnificent part of the world, and the food, I can only imagine. I really hope to get there one day. Thankyou for sharing it with us.
David Scott Allen
June 28, 2025 at 5:38 pmThank you so much, Pauline — your kind words made my day. I wish, too, that you could just be teleported there top see all this wonderful architecture and meet the people. Maybe you can pop down next time you are in France!
Evening With A Sandwich
June 27, 2025 at 5:43 pmDavid, I absolutely love reading about your travels ( Your photos are beautiful too). I know this was a very special place for you, and we are honored you shared the beautiful city of Fez and this beautiful Riad with us.
I think travel opens up worlds and our minds.
Velva
David Scott Allen
June 28, 2025 at 5:39 pmI agree 100%, Velva — Mark Twain said it best: Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
June 29, 2025 at 7:43 amMorocco has never been on my travel bucket list, but after reading your post, I must reconsider. What I know for sure is that if I visited Morocco, I’d have spent a lot of money on various napkins, bowls, and other props for my photography! LOL
Cocoa & Lavender
June 30, 2025 at 7:01 amYes, definitely take a lot of extra cash — and be prepared for the bargaining. It gets to be quite fun.
If you do go, please reach out — I can share some less-traveled, quietr places for you to enjoy!
Inger
June 29, 2025 at 5:28 pmLooks like another lovely vacation David!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 30, 2025 at 7:01 amWell, someone has to do it, Inger!
Jeff the Chef
July 1, 2025 at 4:31 amThis is all so, so amazing. I can see why you like to visit!
Cocoa & Lavender
July 1, 2025 at 10:07 amThanks, Jeff — it is a pretty spectacular part of the world!
Leslie Schellie
July 1, 2025 at 12:08 pmDavid, what a joy to discover Fez through your eyes! I feel so fortunate to have toured this ancient gem from sweltering Tucson today, with you as my guide. Your photographs and loving description of Riad Myra are enchanting, and I’ll be dreaming of its cool blues, and central fountain until I can visit. Thank you! And fingers crossed for a monsoon rain today.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 1, 2025 at 4:27 pmI am so excited that it might rain, Leslie! Thank you so much for your really nice comment — I hope you do get to Morocco and to Riad Myra. I could spend a whole week just sitting and reading on that courtyard!
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
July 2, 2025 at 8:48 amFabulous! I really must get to Morocco one of these days. And I love that you feel so at home in Fes. It’s a lovely feeling that—means you have truly graduated from tourist to visitor. Or even a semi-local.
David Scott Allen
July 4, 2025 at 9:24 amThanks, Frank — Visitor is a great status, I think. We tour around to discover the places we truly want to visit.
Valentina
July 9, 2025 at 9:48 pmAmazing, David. Every single photograph is absolutely stunning — not just the content, but the way you shot them. I want to jump into each one. That bathroom! The courtyard! All of it! So very special. On my (never-ending list). 🙂 ~Valentina
David Scott Allen
July 10, 2025 at 7:24 amThank you, Valentina — this means a lot to me, as you are a wonderful photographer. Morocco is quite a magical city — I hope you get a chance to go sometime.