A Smart Cookie.

Imagine your dream job. Are you an astronaut catapulting through space? Are you a Pulitzer Prize winning journalist? Or are you a cookie researcher in Italy, traveling from town to town collecting the best cookie recipes from each region? I know that I would choose the third one… as did Domenica Marchetti, author of Italian Cookies (Gibbs-Smith, April 2026).

I have known Domenica for years; I have many of her cookbooks, have taken an online class with her, read her posts and articles regularly, and — of course — make many of her recipes. Among the food writers whom I know, she is one of the truly trustworthy recipe developers. I sat down with her the other day and had a nice chat about her new cookbook, Italian Cookies.

A little about Domenica. She comes to her love of Italy and Italian cuisine naturally. In her own words, she is cento per cento Italiana; her mother was born in Italy, and her father, while born in the United States, has two Italian-born parents. She considers Abruzzo — her family’s home — her home, as well. (When in the States, she resides in Northern Virginia.)

After earning degrees from Skidmore College (English) and Columbia University (Journalism), she started her career as a reporter (perhaps she would have won the Pulitzer Prize?) before realizing that sharing her love of Italian cuisine was her true calling. To say that Domenica cares deeply about traditional Italian foodways is an understatement. 

When I asked her about the research aspect of this book, she told me exactly what I mentioned above; she traveled from town to town and region to region collecting the recipes for this book in person. She spoke about being able to see the regional differences clearly. “Butter in the north, olive oil in the south, hazelnuts from the Piedmont, and, well, almonds are pretty much everywhere.” 

How does one come to write a cookie book? In her introduction to the book, Domenica tells us: “It started with a bag of cookies. As I was about to board a van in Genoa to take a small group of tour guests on a day trip, I ducked into a bakery in search of a snack to bring along. Running late, I grabbed the closest thing—a cellophane packet of pretty but plain-looking flower-shaped butter cookies. A lucky choice, as it turns out. Not only were the cookies a big hit with my guests, they were also the best butter cookies I’ve ever had—impossibly rich and melt-in-your-mouth crumbly, and yet comprising just four ingredients: flour, butter, sugar, and eggs.” These cookies are the Canestrelletti di Torriglia.

As always when reviewing, I tested three recipes from the book; I told Domenica my choices and she said they were a characteristic selection: Canestrelletti di Torriglia (Liguria) uses butter, Ricciarelli (Tuscany) with almonds, and Pabassinas (Sardinia) include fruit. The recipe for the Canestrelletti — the flower-shaped cookie from that day in Genoa that was the impetus for this book — is printed below. They are all delicious and the recipes work beautifully (no surprise to me). 

A few things to mention about the book. First and foremost, it is a great cookbook for anyone who wants to make cookies. There are super simple recipes as well as several that are a bit complicated. This book gets two very buttery and floured thumbs up from me. It is a new favorite.

The introduction. Always read the introduction, especially this one. You will enjoy it immensely and will get to know Domenica. The following sections on equipment, ingredients, and techniques are invaluable to any baker. These are followed by four regional sections: Cookies of the North, Cookies of Central Italy, Cookies of the South, and Cookies of the Islands. There are 75 fantastic recipes from which to choose, and they are followed by a section of Basics and Embellishments – recipes which she uses in making her cookies.

The book is very well-written and features gorgeous artwork by Daniela Bracco, a Sicilian illustrator who lives in Rome, and mouthwatering photos by Lauren Volo from New York City. (Note: Domenica baked every cookie that appears on the cover of the book!)

She teaches wonderful classes and workshops, in addition to leading small group tours. The best places to “visit” Domenica to find out about her books, workshops, classes, and tours, are are on her website, Domenica Cooks, and as a contributer to the Mediterranean Dish. You can also find her in the pages of La Cucina Italiana, Food & Wine, and The Washington Post. If you are interested in purchasing Italian Cookies, it can be found online at Bookshop.org, Omnivore Books, Indiebound, and Amazon. Of course, you can also check your local bookstore. 

I pre-ordered my copy from Bookshop.org and was then given the opportunity by Gibbs-Smith to review the book; thus, I have two copies. I would love to give the one I purchased to you! For a chance to receive your own copy of Italian Cookies by Domenica Marchetti, tell me about your favorite cookie memory in the comments (by April 25). I will pick one winner at random. Unfortunately, shipping abroad is astronomically costly these days so this giveaway is limited to the United States and Canada. Of course, if you are abroad and want to enter and win the book for a friend here in the U.S. or Canada, that is totally legit!

My last question for Domenica was this: It’s a damp, cold, rainy (or snowy) day. What is your cookie of choice, and with what beverage? “That is a lovely question. The first thing that comes to mind is the Baci di Dama. When I think of cold and snow, I think of coffee. And I did stray a little bit in the recipe — I put ground espresso in the cookie dough. I really love them with a little cappuccino or a cortado in the afternoon (you don’t want to have cappuccino after noon).” I learned to make Domenica’s recipe for Baci di Dama in an online Christmas Cookies class she taught several years ago. The recipe is on Cocoa & Lavender.

~ David

Canestrelletti di Torriglia

David Scott Allen, Cocoa & Lavender
5 from 6 votes

Ingredients
  

  • 3 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup 100 grams granulated sugar
  • 8 ounces 2 sticks unsalted butter — cut into 1/2-inch cubes, at cool room temperature (65° F)
  • 2 1/2 cups 300 grams pastry flour, plus more for the work surface
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine salt optional—I omitted

Instructions
 

  • Separate the eggs and return the whites to the refrigerator. You will need them when you bake the cookies. Place the egg yolks and the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat, first on medium-low, then on high, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the mixture is very pale and fluffy. Drop in cubes of butter, two at a time, beating to incorporate them well before adding more. This will take several minutes, but don’t rush the process, or the mixture won’t whip properly. You are aiming for the texture of a soft, emulsified buttercream.
  • When all the butter has been incorporated, switch to the paddle attachment. Add the flour and salt all at once and mix on low speed to incorporate without kicking up any flour. Once the flour is mixed in, beat on medium high for 10 to 20 seconds to make sure everything is thoroughly combined. Scrape the dough onto a sheet of reusable wrap or plastic wrap, wrap tightly, and refrigerate overnight.
  • Remove the dough and the egg whites from the refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes to warm up slightly. Preheat the oven to 325° F (165° C). Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment.
  • Lightly flour a clean work surface and lay the dough on it. Lightly flour the top of the dough and your rolling pin. Roll the dough out to a thickness of 3/8-inch (5-mm), in other words, just under 1/2 inch (12 mm). Use a 2 1/2 inch (6 cm) six-petal flower cookie cutter with a hole in the center to stamp out canestrelletti. If you don’t have a cookie cutter with a hole in the center, use a solid one and then use a zucchini corer or even the wide end of a stainless-steel piping tip to cut out the hole. Place the cookies on the prepared baking sheets, leaving about 1 inch (2 1/2 cm) between them. You should be able to fit 12 per sheet. Gather up the scraps and the punched-out centers and roll out more cookies, for a total of about 24.
  • Lightly beat the egg whites and brush the tops of the cookies. Bake the canestrelletti, one sheet at a time, in the middle of the oven, for 25 to 30 minutes, until they are set and golden, but not too brown. Transfer the baking sheets to wire racks to cool for 20 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the racks to cool completely. Serve them as is or with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar. Store canestrelletti in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Notes

Makes 24.

52 Comments

  1. Lisa Salati

    April 18, 2026 at 5:18 am

    I am half Italian and Italian cookies are my favorite. I was in Florence and for dessert I had biscotti with sweet white wine for dipping. The biscotti were small, had almonds and an orange flavor but were not hard like most biscotti. I have been unsuccessful in duplicating this recipe. Second memory is making a cookie we called tarra lucci with my family. They are like a sweet tortellini but the filling is very unusual.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:16 pm

      Much for commenting Lisa. In Florence, and much of Tuscany, the small biscotti are called cantuccini. They’re a favor of mine and they are wonderful dipped in vin santo. I wish the wine were easier to find here. The tarragon Lucca sound really interesting!

      Reply
  2. Ellen Patton

    April 18, 2026 at 5:39 am

    Hi David,
    Just ordered the cookbook. I’m particularly excited to see that recipes from the Friuli (my grandparents lived there) are included. Thanks for the recommendation and the recipe! Hope all is well. Hi to Mark!

    Ellen

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:14 pm

      Thanks, Ellen. We are very well and enjoying our life in Tucson! How exciting that you’ll get to make cookies from your family background. I had no idea you had Italian heritage. You’re so lucky! Do you have your Italian passport yet? My best to Walt and the girls! Er… women!

      Reply
  3. angiesrecipes

    April 18, 2026 at 7:09 am

    My favourite cookies are the simplest one..butter cookies. I love those beautiful plates too. Those Canestrelletti di Torriglia look literally melt-in-mouth, David.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:13 pm

      This is the point where I always say that butter is one of the five major food groups, Angie. They are unbelievable!

      Reply
  4. Barb

    April 18, 2026 at 7:28 am

    The photo of the cookies on the beautiful blue plate look so inviting! They are definitely my kind of cookie — lots of butter and only a small amount of sugar! The cookbook cover is gorgeous. It would be a difficult decision to choose one of them, as they all look so tasty! Both of my grandmothers (neither was Italian) made fabulous cookies but none were fancy like these. Domenica is obviously very talented! Your choice of the canestrelletti was perfect!

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:12 pm

      There was no way I could choose any other cookie to make once I read Dominica‘s story of how she came up upon them. And, she baked every single cookie that was on the cover. So impressive! She told me how she and her husband carefully transported them to New York for the photo session. Like you, neither of my grandmothers was Italian but, oh, how I wish they were! I do have “kissing cousins“ who are Italian and I have some of their recipes, which is a great gift.

      Reply
  5. susan debronsky

    April 18, 2026 at 7:51 am

    Favorite cookie memory!???!?! Making or eating?
    When I was younger I made Hamentaschen with my grandmother’s home-made recipe, and used to bring. them in to the temple where my aunt was the rabbi’s secretary. Everyone loved them! They were filled with poppy or farmer’s cheese or the traditional apricot or prune.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:10 pm

      Well, for you, Suzo, it would have to be both. I remember you making Hamentaschen in Delmar. They were so good! I think you used apricot jam for the filling. Does that ring a bell?

      Reply
  6. Melissa

    April 18, 2026 at 8:18 am

    The canestrelletti look great, and your description has convinced me to go out and buy a flower-shaped cookie cutter with a hole in the middle (something I unaccountably lack!).
    My grandmother was a baker, but she made pies, not cookies (or cakes, for that matter). So my foundational cookie memory is of the chocolate chip cookies at a local bakery called Hanscom’s, which we were allowed as a very occasional treat. They were on the large side and almost more square than round. The dough was on the dark side, the chocolate chips were plentiful, there were a few white chocolate bits or almonds (I never figured out which), and the texture was crisp. I loved them. I’ve tried, but I have never been able to replicate the taste.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:09 pm

      Admittedly, I did buy the flower shaped cookie cutter, Missy, but used the wide end of one of my pastry bag tips to cut the holes in the middle. It worked rather perfectly (and was a suggestion from Domenica herself). Was Hanscom’s bakery near your home growing up? I never remember hearing about it. We bought most of our baked goods at the farmers market, first in Wayne and then in Strafford. Thanks for sharing your memory!

      Reply
      • Melissa

        April 21, 2026 at 2:32 pm

        Hanscom’s was a chain, and there was one in the Wynnewood shopping center (where Wanamaker’s was). They closed in the mid-1980s.

        Reply
        • David Scott Allen

          April 23, 2026 at 2:33 pm

          How did I miss it? We were too busy being plebeian getting Br ice cream.

          Reply
  7. Stephanie Zarpas

    April 18, 2026 at 8:29 am

    My favorite Italian cookie is Brutti Ma Buoni, Ugly But Good. I first came across it in the window of a bakery near our hotel in Torino when my husband was working for NBC Olympics in 2006. Intrigued by the name, I had to try them. By the end of my stay, I was a repeat customer! I have since learned to make them myself as I did recently as my contribution to a friend’s Seder.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:07 pm

      Brute ma buoni our wonderful, Stephanie. I first had them in Montalcino and, at the same time, the rental car agent told us that our car was exactly that: bruta ma buona. She was right. It was an ugly car but very comfortable. Then we got to town and found a bakery that served the cookies. It all made sense after that.

      Reply
  8. Camille Pons

    April 18, 2026 at 9:43 am

    My mother’s grandparents on both sides came over from Sicily. After marrying, my grandparents settled in Rochester NY. Mom talked about the Italian cookies her mother would buy from Savoia Pastry Shoppe. Every time she would visit family she would bring back 2lbs of cookies in her suitcase – heaven. But I digress.

    One of my favorite cookies were Cucidates – a fig cookies wrapped in pastry dough iced with a simple vanilla drizzle and sprinkles. Heaven. My mother made these one Easter when we lived overseas. She made it with a friend and her daughter. I remember Mom and Alice hand grinding the fig mixture. Teri and I loved doing the frosting and sprinkles. We called them Suzette’s after Alice and Teri’s white poodle Suzette because the fig mixture looked like Suzette’s…ahem…well, you know (🤣). In any case, Suzette’s are, to this day, my favorite cookies. Savoia’s taste exactly how my mother made them. 💗💗

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:06 pm

      I love stories like that, Camille. You didn’t grow up in Rochester, did you? It’s where I went to school and I have a fun list for the place.

      So, my favorite Christmas cookies are also Cuccidati — and I plan to publish my family’s recipe as we get closer to Christmas. It was supposed to be posted last Christmas, but I never got around to it. The farthest I got was buying the sprinkles which came in handy for this post.

      Reply
  9. Mad Dog

    April 18, 2026 at 10:13 am

    That looks like a very enjoyable book to write. Going from town to town and collecting recipes sounds quite appealing …and fabulous Canestrelletti di Torriglia, David!

    Reply
  10. Ben | Havocinthekitchen

    April 18, 2026 at 2:38 pm

    Such a lovely and inspiring post, David! I love the cookbook touch and these classic Italian cookies – so nostalgic and beautifully done. I honestly believe you cannot beat old-fashioned shortbread and most Italian cookies.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:04 pm

      That’s the thing that amazes me, Ben — it’s not a shortbread cookie because it has eggs! It was a real surprise because when I tasted the cookies, I said, “These are the best non-shortbread shortbreads I’ve ever had”

      Reply
  11. Gerlinde de Broekert

    April 18, 2026 at 3:01 pm

    5 stars
    David, these cookies look absolutely fantastic. I might just have to buy the book to add to my collection of so many others. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:03 pm

      I think you would really enjoy this book, Gerlinde. So many good recipes!

      Reply
  12. Eha Carr

    April 18, 2026 at 3:18 pm

    I may not make or eat biscuits but actually enjoy following the lady myself – probably came upon her on your pages 🙂 ! Coming in late from a different time zone have really enjoyed all the comments by your readers who know about the baked goods in various parts of Italy.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:02 pm

      Thank you, Eha — it is really fun day. Read people stories. I’m hoping I’ll get more as time goes by.

      Reply
  13. mimi rippee

    April 18, 2026 at 3:25 pm

    You always make me wish I baked! So pretty!

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 18, 2026 at 5:02 pm

      hmmm… Maybe you should bake? (I know that’s not going to happen!) I said for these cookies being pretty, they are the best butter cookie I’ve ever had.

      Reply
  14. Sherry M

    April 18, 2026 at 5:27 pm

    always a good idea to refrigerate the dough before baking. We live in a neighbourhood that was full of Italian migrants after the war and there is still a large contingent of their children and grandchildren. Our lovely neighbour (sadly now deceased) made the best pastries. These sound marvellous David.
    sherry

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 19, 2026 at 3:30 pm

      Sometimes I chill the dough, sometimes I don’t. Honestly, if you work quickly, there’s not a lot of difference.

      Your neighbor sounds wonderful — I am sure you miss her.

      Reply
  15. Allison T

    April 18, 2026 at 8:39 pm

    5 stars
    Favorite cookie memory: Helping my grandmother make almond cookies that would get coated with powdered sugar right after they came of out the oven. I was also usually coated with it after I helped with that part.

    Reply
  16. FEL!X

    April 18, 2026 at 10:12 pm

    Lovely! Can not have enough recipes for cookies!

    Reply
  17. Priya

    April 19, 2026 at 9:28 am

    5 stars
    There is always something special about Italian cookies 🙂 love it David.

    Reply
  18. Frank | Memorie di Angelina

    April 21, 2026 at 10:54 am

    Domenica is a treasure! Of course you know I downloaded her book on the day it came out, though I’ve yet to cook from it, I am salivating over the all the cookies. And that’s me, the I don’t have a sweet tooth guy… These looks absolutely perfect, David.

    As for my own cookie memories, surely my most cherished are the taralli dolci that my grandmother made. We called them Nana’s Cookies. I thought she’d invented them… 😉

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 23, 2026 at 2:32 pm

      She is amazing — just a delightful and incredibly intelligent human. The book is fabulous… we should compare notes when we make these, Frank. As to your memory, I have never had taralli dolci. I need to change that

      Reply
  19. Jeff the Chef

    April 21, 2026 at 8:03 pm

    I guess my favorite cookie memory would be a recipe for oatmeal sandwich cookies that my grandmother used to make. It was a huge affair. Everyone would get involved and they would make a boatload of them. We’d try to ration them to make them last as long as we could, but they were too good to ration. I have the recipe, and I’ve made them a few times. It’s so much work!

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 23, 2026 at 2:34 pm

      Oh wow, Jeff; I hope you put them on the blog soon. I’d love to make them.

      Reply
  20. Karen (Back Road Journal)

    April 22, 2026 at 11:40 am

    Having a recipe for a good cookie is always nice. Having a cookbook with so many wonderful cookies is great! Pignoli cookies have to be one of my favorite…they are so light and melt in your mouth.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 23, 2026 at 2:35 pm

      Pignoli have been a favorite of mine too, one I discovered them! Thanks, Karen

      Reply
  21. Raymund

    April 22, 2026 at 7:14 pm

    David, this post made me want to drop everything, brew a cappuccino (before noon, of course), and bake my way through the entire book.

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 23, 2026 at 2:36 pm

      I know the feeling Raymund — though Cocoa for me, please!

      Reply
  22. Amy Lambrecht

    April 23, 2026 at 2:28 pm

    Hi David. My favorite cookie recipe is, honestly, not my own. My daughter traveled to visit my sister, her favorite aunt, when she was 13 years old, as a bat mitzvah gift. The two of them made an enormous chocolate chip cookie. Two decades later, my daughter still talks about the cookie and the experience and remembers both fondly. There is something so warm and welcoming about baking together!

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 23, 2026 at 2:38 pm

      That 8s a fabulous memory that you share with your daughter and sister, Amy.

      Reply
  23. Christina

    April 25, 2026 at 2:28 pm

    5 stars
    I love Domenica’s work! She’s spot on and another Italian fighting the good fight to teach others about authentic Italian cuisine! These biscotti are gorgeous, David! Italian sweets are often deceiving as one thinks there won’t be much too them, and then SURPRISE: they’re amazing!
    Thanks for the lovely giveaway! I’d love Domenica’s book!

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      April 27, 2026 at 11:19 pm

      Yes, Christian, the simplicity is really deceiving, as the tastes is always so wonderful.

      Reply
  24. 2pots2cook

    April 28, 2026 at 6:15 am

    5 stars
    Now you made me think…. I cannot emphasize which biscotti are our favourite… I’ll order the cookbook to discover ….

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      May 3, 2026 at 6:25 am

      That sounds like a good plan, Davorka. It’s readily available as an e-book so it’s much easier to use for cooking

      Reply
  25. Bya Berger

    May 3, 2026 at 6:38 am

    5 stars
    I happily found you by way of Daniela Bracco! I am your newest fan! My cookie memorie: my mom made a chocolate chip oatmeal cookie with Rice Krispies. She would stack them up 4 high after cooling making it impossible to sneak one…she’d know! It remains a great recipe!

    Reply
    • David Scott Allen

      May 7, 2026 at 12:08 pm

      Hi Bya — and welcome! Sorry for the delay in responding — I’m traveling getting new and wonderful recipe ideas! I’m so glad you found me. Please feel free to reach out with any questions or ideas! And thanks for your memory — I’ll be choosing a winner soon!

      Reply

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