High in the Rif Mountains.
Another culinary adventure in Morocco! We love the country’s cuisine and decided that, during our recent trip in May, we would take several cooking classes to augment our understanding. These were among my favorite experiences during the trip; yes, for the recipes (of course) but mostly for the honor of being in the homes of two families and learning from them in their kitchens.
When in Chefchaouen, the Blue City in the Rif Mountains, our driver picked us up one morning and we headed towards the Gîte El Houmar, a farm in a tiny mountainside Amazigh (Berber) village about an hour away. We were met at the gate by Mohammed, the owner. He showed us around the low-walled garden with fruit trees underplanted with vegetables and some herbs. Then through another gate into an inner paved courtyard with small cutouts for several more fruit trees. There were pomegranate, orange, tangerine, apricot, avocado, loquat, quince, grapes, and more. We settled in a covered alcove for the traditional welcoming tea. That was particularly appreciated because the morning was gray and a bit chilly.
Following tea, we were introduced to Ehsen, his wife, who led the class. Mohammed spoke some English and good French; Ehsen spoke Amazigh and Arabic, plus two or three words in French and English. Thus, our instructions were mostly visual with the occasional insertion of “small” when dicing the onion, or “long” when slicing the zucchini. But culinary language knows no borders — we all understood perfectly well.
We made two recipes that day — a chicken tagine and a Moroccan Lentil Soup to start our meal. The tagine was prepared first, as it cooks for at least an hour on the fire. While we prepared the chicken and vegetables for the tagine with Ehsen, Mohammed lit a fire in a small brazier — the same diameter as the tagine pot — in the innermost family courtyard, then he carried it through the kitchen into the more-public outer courtyard. Ehsen set the tagine directly on the coals in the brazier and we cooked the spiced chicken first. It sizzled immediately on contact with the pottery dish. Then we added the vegetables in a visually appealing arrangement. We covered the tagine then headed back inside to make the soup.
A much simpler affair, the soup took just minutes to prep. The onions, tomatoes, herbs, and spices went into the pressure cooker and were sautéed for a few minutes before the lentils and water were added. The top to the pressure cooker was engaged and the soup cooked for about 30 minutes, during which time Mohammed took us for a walk.
Through his fields and his neighbors’ fields we went; Mohammed pointed out wild olive trees he plans to graft with good stock, several varieties of wild mint, wild lavender (which he noted specifically for me because of Cocoa & Lavender), and crops planted irregularly among the rock outcroppings. We walked towards the village where we could hear the voices of children at play in the schoolyard. Once we arrived at the school, we met the teacher as well as his two daughters Zainab (9) and Iman (6) and many of their friends. The students were using their play time working hard at leveling their sloped schoolyard to build themselves a small-scale football (soccer) field. We looked at the adjacent old and new mosques, then meandered back to the gîte to check on our lunch.
The tagine needed a bit more cooking so we sat down to some bread (Khobz) and home-cured olives before our soup. Hot bowls of soup on that cloudy and cool day were welcome, and warmed us to the core. Then came the tagine, flavorful and resplendent with typical Moroccan flavors.
Today, I am sharing the recipe for the Moroccan Lentil Soup. It’s simple and delicious, and a wonderful memory of our day cooking in the Rif Mountains. As I don’t have a pressure cooker, I use the traditional stovetop method. And I want to end with a big thank you to Markipedia and my brother-in-law David for the use of their photos.
~David
Developed and maintained by Inspiratech LLC.
Design by Themeshift.
Mimi Rippee
August 16, 2025 at 4:58 amI love looking at your photos! Especially after having been in Morocco myself. I took a cooking class at a family’s home in the Medina. What a treat. The lentils are lovely.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:40 pmThanks, Mimi — I will be writing about another class we took at the home of a chef I befriended last time we were there — but first I have to learn how to make warqa/brik., But I think I am on my way so you should be seeing an amazing b’stilla soon! I am so glad you had a wonderful experience there, too.
Carolyne
August 16, 2025 at 5:20 amWhat’s not to love about a lentil soup on a cool day? This recipe looks delicious. And, the photos of Morocco are fabulous too.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:38 pmThanks, Carolyne — I agree about lentil soup. Just delicious at any time.
Mad Dog
August 16, 2025 at 6:22 amWhat a fabulous adventure and beautiful blue and white houses! I love simple lentil soups like that and it’s not far off from some Spanish recipes (unsurprising really, considering their shared history).
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:38 pmIndeed, Mad Dog — we found so many parallels in the cuisines of souther Spain and Morocco. It is no surprise that we love them both.
Barb
August 16, 2025 at 7:32 amFabulous photos! The lentil soup sounds perfect for a cool spring day. I like that they cooked the tagine using the traditional brazier method and then made the soup in a modern day pressure cooker. I have a pressure cooker but I prefer to cook dried beans and lentils on the stove top, as I think the texture of dried beans and lentils is better when fully cooked.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:37 pmHonestly, Barb, it made me want to get a brazier for home! (Mark doesn’t know yet… ) It is good to gear that you prefer the stovetop method for beans and lentils, especially as I don’t think I will ever have a pressure cooker.
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
August 16, 2025 at 7:33 amWhat a gorgeous place to learn about Moroccan cookery. I know it sounds crazy but I find food just tastes different when you’re eating it in this kind of setting. And by different, I mean better!
As for the soup, it looks fabulous. As you may know, I love lentils. Any which way you make them.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:36 pmI agree with you 100%, Frank — it may have been the simplest food we ate in the country but it was up there with the best. I howpe you try this soup, Frank. I think you both would love it.
angiesrecipes
August 16, 2025 at 7:35 amThe Blue City is beautiful and exotic. Love the stoneware! The lentil must be very comforting and delicious with all wonderful spices.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:34 pmChefchaouen is such a beautiful place, Angie, though quite touristy now. Getting out into the mountains for this experience really made the visit worthwhile.
Emily Green
August 16, 2025 at 7:46 amYet again, beautiful documentation of your experience along with beautiful verbiage. Thanks so much for sharing and looking forward to making this recipe soon.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:33 pmI did think of you when I made this, Emily — it is perfect vegetarian/vegan fare!
Laura W. Brown
August 16, 2025 at 7:48 amYummy. As soon as our weather cools off, a hearty soup such as this one will be a staple.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:33 pmI think you and Arch will enjoy it, Laura. It sounds like it would have been perfect for Colorado.
Carolyn J Niethammer
August 16, 2025 at 8:22 amIt will still be a couple of months before soup weather here, but this recipe is nice. More ingredients that I typically put in lentil soup so this promises to be a lovely change.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:30 pmIt is definitely more “complicated” (flavor-wise) than my old lentil soup recipe from the 70s, but it is really worth a try. And, as for the heat — I have made this twice since coming home and it was worth heating up my kitchen!
Jill
August 16, 2025 at 10:20 amWhat a wonderful post. I love lentil soup, must try your spice mix. Cooking classes add so much to visiting an area – have done both Santa Fe and New Orleans – more commercial than these. Again, thanks for taking us with you and Mark.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:29 pmThanks, Jill. I love all cooking classes but the commercial ones, as were the classes I have taken in France and Italy, were definitely not as special as this. Glad you were able to “come along” for this.
Eha Carr
August 16, 2025 at 2:39 pmWhat a wonderful story to read waking up on a Sunday morning. A great recipe for a soup I so enjoy made in circumstances truly to remember. Forever memories as well as current taste opportunities. My heart and mind will be in Morocco today and for days to come as have just found out someone very dear to me there has crossed the river . . . life . . .
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:27 pmI am so sorry to hear of your loss, Eha. Keep your friend close in your heart and in your memories. I am glad to provide some comfort food for you.
Pauline McNee
August 16, 2025 at 3:53 pmWhat beautiful photos David. Firstly I love the blue city vibes, the colour of the home you visited, and the stoneware. When travelling, I find that cooking classes deliver even more information and pleasure than just learning about their food and acquiring recipes. I love making lentil soup and your recipe looks so delicious, so before the end of the cooler weather here I must make this one .It is interesting that your host used a pressure cooker. I think I will use the stovetop method too. I’m not always brave enough to use my pressure cooker:) Thanks so much to you and Mark for sharing your Moroccan visit, it was a very enjoyable read on a lazy Sunday morning. Take care.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:26 pmThe blue color on the homes in that region is really wonderful, Pauline. I just can’t get enough! I really think you will enjoy this recipe, and using the stovetop method works so well and really doesn’t save that much time. I do not have a pressure cooker and probably will never have one. My mother’s sister was badly scalded when one exploded in their home when she was young, so I have hjad the fear of the beast instilled in me since my youth. I hoppe you enjoy it, Pauline, before it gets too warm!
Johanna Lockhart
August 16, 2025 at 3:56 pmWell, its a hot summer day in the desert and perfect for a Lentil side dish…wanted to use a recent gift of La Chinata Aceite de Oliva (EVOO) from NE Spain. Used Red Lentils, and used small Campari tomatoes 🍅..skin on. Sorry David..🤭 Such authentic flavors. Your travelogue and incredible photos, as always, such a delight.
Gracias JL
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:22 pmThat sounds wonderful, Johanna — and I often skip the peeling of the tomatoes, but it always depends on the final result I am seeking. Sometimes, they just need to be peeled!
Susan
August 16, 2025 at 6:48 pmLentil soup — your lentil soup — is on my mind! We hope to make it tomorrow!
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:21 pmI hope you enjoy it, Susan — such a nice bowl of comfort now that it’s wintertime there (according to Markipedia!).
Karen (Back Road Journal)
August 17, 2025 at 7:39 amFrom your interesting photos, it looks like a memorable day. I have made Harira, a Moroccan chickpea and lentil soup and now look forward to trying your lentil soup. It sounds great.
David Scott Allen
August 17, 2025 at 3:20 pmThanks, Karen. We very much enjoy harira — one of our favorite wintertime soups and almost everwhere we went in Morocco. I love when it is served with dates and chebakia! This soup is infinitely simpler but no less comforting. I hope you do make it and that you enjoy it.
sherry
August 17, 2025 at 7:38 pmI love some lentil soup! And that blue is just gorgeous – my fave colour. What a marvellous experience you had David!
cheers
sherry
David Scott Allen
August 18, 2025 at 9:46 amHow could you not love that blue, Sherry? Blue was always my favorite color growing up… And the class? It was beyond all expectations.
Jeff the Chef
August 19, 2025 at 6:26 amI love this! It kind of reminds me of baked beans in a way. I happen to have a bunch of lentils, and I think I’m going to try this. Good lord, you take the most amazing vacations! And I love all that lapis!
David Scott Allen
August 22, 2025 at 11:18 amIt did look a bit like baked beans but, trust me Jeff, they are nothing alike! I definitely think you should try this soup — the flavors are incredible. And, yes, we are so fortunate to be able to travel. I am so bad — I already have the next several planned before Mark can even catch his breath!
Raymund
August 21, 2025 at 2:44 amWhat a magical way to experience Moroccan cuisine! I love how you captured not just the recipes but the warmth of cooking alongside a local family. The lentil soup looks like the perfect comfort dish to bring a bit of the Rif Mountains into my own kitchen.
David Scott Allen
August 22, 2025 at 11:16 amMagical is the perfect word, Raymund. It was a most special experience.
Inger
August 23, 2025 at 9:46 amWhat a wonderful experience David! And happily just when I’m looking for some new winter soups!
David Scott Allen
August 23, 2025 at 4:57 pmThanks, Inger — I hope you enjoy it!
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
August 25, 2025 at 10:22 amHearty, filling, and tasty soup for a cold time of the year. And the photos of the Blue City are amazing (certainly a huge bonus: the cats).
David Scott Allen
August 25, 2025 at 10:43 amI have had good reviews on the soup from people who have made it — that always makes me happy! The Blue City is spectacular… so much blue! And sooooo many cats. 🙂
Judee
August 26, 2025 at 5:12 pmThere is nothing like a good full bodied lentil soup. This looks absolutely delicious. Thanks for sharing all the photos on this wonderful adventure that you took. I was in Morocco in Casa Blanca a few months ago. The food is wonderful.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 28, 2025 at 8:00 amThanks, Judee — like you, I love lentil soups and am always happy to have a pot simmering on the stove. But, as you can imagine, the Moroccan flavors in this make it very special. I’m glad you got to Morocco — such a special country.
Jean | DelightfulRepast.com
August 27, 2025 at 11:28 amDavid, what a marvelous culinary adventure! How I envy you and Markipedia! Looking forward to making this delicious sounding recipe.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 28, 2025 at 7:55 amThanks, Jean — it was truly a highlight of the trip. And I have had good reviews on the soup, too. Several readers have made it and enjoyed it very much.
Valentina
September 10, 2025 at 10:38 pmI’m a bit behind . . . it’s lovely catching up on your recipes and travels. What an experience! I love what you said about it being an honor to be in the kitchens of the families. It’s like the food was a bonus. The photo of the tagine over the heat, on ground with the bright blue behind it and hat above it, is so stunning. And of course the lentil soup is on my list to make. Such delicious flavors and so comforting. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
September 11, 2025 at 5:50 amIt is true — the food was almost secondary. I loved that day so very much, and I have another wonderful day to share soon.
Valentina
September 12, 2025 at 8:28 amI made this last night and it was a big hit. Only thing I did differently was use green lentils because I already had them. Served it with salmon and everyone loved it! 🙂 ~Valentina
David Scott Allen
September 12, 2025 at 9:04 amI need to try it with green lentils, as I have those as well. (So many different-colored lentils in my cupboard!) I’m so glad you liked it — I bet it was awesome with the salmon. 🩵
CC
November 15, 2025 at 11:31 amWhat a wonderful day you had! This lentil soup is just like our Italian version (minus the spices and cilantro, of course) One of my favorites!!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 16, 2025 at 6:28 amI do wonder what this would be like if you made it with mint or basil instead of cilantro. I bet it would be great!