No “K” in the Italian Alphabet.
At the turn of the century (I love saying that), Mark and I visited Tuscany with a group of friends. We rented a large farmhouse in Fiano, a village in the hills north of San Gimignano. One of our group, well traveled in Tuscany, insisted that our day trip to Florence include a visit to the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. Really? A pharmacy? Wanting to be good traveling companions, we acquiesced. Boy, are we glad we did!
Even if you don’t want to purchase anything, it is worth a visit. Its string of historic rooms include glimpses into the adjacent church’s medieval cloister, its walnut cabinetry and apothecary vessels from the 1600s, and a gothic-revival vaulted ceiling with frescoed personifications of the four continents. I wish I could get my hands on the original recipe books displayed behind the glass doors. We visit whenever we are in Florence, and have discovered satellite shops in other cities: Venice, Rome, Paris, London, Madrid, and New York, and more across the globe. In fact it was in the Rome location, just off Il Corso, that I almost caused an international incident… but more on that next week.
Today, La Farmacia, as we call it, is a perfumery and herbalist boutique, not a medicinal pharmacy as it likely was when it opened officially in 1612. Prior to that, the monks at Santa Maria Novella concocted medicinal herbal blends starting in the 13th century. That precursor invites the description of the current place as “the oldest pharmacy in the world.”
Aside from soaps, perfumes, colognes, potpourri, toiletries, and medicinal balms, La Farmacia also offers food items such as chocolate, tisanes, and liqueurs. One of the liqueurs is Alkermes, the subject of today’s post. It is a digestif that is most commonly used for making the traditional dessert, Zuppa Inglese. It is very spice-forward, flavored with cloves, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, mace, aniseed, vanilla, and orange. Its distinctive name comes from Arabic for the cochineal bug (kermes) that gives the liqueur its unique deep pinkish-red color, thus making sense of its Arabic sounding name. Because there is no K in the Italian alphabet, some spell the liqueur “alchermes,” as the ch combination has the same sound as k. But Santa Maria Novella, which holds and safeguards the original recipe, spells it Alkermes. I do, as well.
~ David
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angiesrecipes
March 21, 2026 at 6:05 amSo happy to see some great spices there…I totally love mace. Cochineal gives it such a pretty colour! Cheers!
David Scott Allen
March 21, 2026 at 7:31 amThanks, Angie! I do love all the spices in this.
Barb
March 21, 2026 at 6:35 amVery interesting!! It looks like red wine, so if you poured a glass for a guest they would be quite surprised at the very spicy taste. Obviously, you were very successful in recreating the recipe without access to the original!! Where there’s a will, there is a way! I doubt I’ll ever make it, but I would like to taste it.
David Scott Allen
March 21, 2026 at 7:32 amOh, yes, Barb! It would be a big surprise, but a pleasant one. I wish I lived closer – I would bring some over to you!
Carolyn Niethammer
March 21, 2026 at 7:06 amPowdered cochineal bugs! I had no idea. Recipe apparently devised after New World exploration.
David Scott Allen
March 21, 2026 at 7:34 amPrior to contact, the kermes bug (which gives the liqueur its name) was used, and cochineal started appearing in the late 16th century. I think the two bugs may be related, but I am not sure.
Melissa
March 21, 2026 at 5:30 pmYou’re right that kermes and cochineal are both derived from insects, but your comment intrigued me, so I looked it up. Cochineal is New World; kermes bugs lived in certain oak trees in France, Italy, and Greece. During the Spanish/Portuguese colonial era in the Americas, imported cochineal was often cheaper in Europe than domestic kermes and was also considered higher quality, and it seems to gradually have superseded kermes in the market.
David Scott Allen
March 22, 2026 at 7:35 amThis is why I need you in my life, Missy! It is funny that we see cochineal bugs almost every day here in Arizona, living happily on the prickly pear cacti. I knew it was cheaper but I didn’t realize the quality was considered better.
Mimi Rippee
March 21, 2026 at 7:20 amI love that company! I’ve purchased many gifts from them. The Italians are really good with liqueurs. I love Amaro.
David Scott Allen
March 21, 2026 at 7:35 amI think this particular liqueur is the exact opposite of an amaro. It’s quite sweet and spicy. I’m glad you know Santa Maria Novella. It’s such a fantastic place.
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
March 21, 2026 at 3:48 pmWhat an intriguing recipe, David. I have to admit I’d never heard of Alchermes before, but now I’m really curious – the colour and flavour profile sound so unique. It seems like it would be perfect for fruity or floral cocktail creations, which is right up my alley. I might have to try making this just to experiment with it in a few drinks!
David Scott Allen
March 22, 2026 at 7:31 amI really think you would enjoy playing with this liqueur, Ben. I can think of no other liqueur that includes these flavors.
Eha Carr
March 21, 2026 at 3:56 pmHow interesting and quite ‘doable’ . . . must keep the recipe! Loved Florence, have been to San Gimignano more than once but knew nothing about La Farmacia or Alkemes . . . homework ahead !
David Scott Allen
March 22, 2026 at 7:33 amIt is an incredible place — worth finding some photos online. I found them but didn’t want to use others’ photos for obvious reasons.
Mad Dog
March 21, 2026 at 4:34 pmThat sounds delicious and easy to make with a litle bit of patience. There are a few apothecaries left in Barcelona, where I can go and ask for the ingredients, which will be treated with far more respect than in the markets! They wrap them in paper with a piece of string.
You will like this – I went to buy wine and vermut today and the owner of the bodega (Oscar) ran round to the bar next door to get some ice in order to give me a half pint sample!
David Scott Allen
March 22, 2026 at 7:38 amI never thought to check out any of the old apothecaries in Spain — I really should ahve. (We visited plenty of modern-day pharmacies, though…)
I must say — you have a real friend in Oscar. Lucky man!
Mad Dog
March 24, 2026 at 4:15 pmI bought wine again today and Oscar gave me a discount but he also offered to put the wine on my friend’s acount instead! 🤣
David Scott Allen
March 25, 2026 at 11:02 amWow — talk about a good (and sneaky) friend!
FEL!X
March 21, 2026 at 9:17 pmThank you very much for sharing this recipe!
At last, I could once again prepare the original «Zuppa Inglese», which ask for Alchermes!
BTW: Cochenille (Karmin/E120/CI 75470)
Until 2006, Campari was coloured with cochineal – a synthetic food colouring is used today.
Still used in lipsticks.
David Scott Allen
March 22, 2026 at 7:39 amYou are most welcome, Felix — I will be posting my Zuppa Inglese recipe next week, which I am told by my friends at UNESCO is the original version. I am excited to share it.
Sherry M
March 22, 2026 at 10:38 pmhow fascinating. i never knew you could still get hold of cochineal bugs. This sounds very spicy and fabulous!
sherry
David Scott Allen
March 23, 2026 at 7:52 amFunny thing, Sherry — I can go into my yard and pick a ton of cochineal bugs! It is a really nice and spicy drink!
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
March 24, 2026 at 7:48 pmI’m not much of a hard liquor drinker- that’s why I like Sangria (tastes more like fruit punch)! This recipe sounds like it would suit me just fine with all the spices. When you said you used cloth diapers as a sort of sieve, I first thought you meant diapers like ‘Depends’. (At my age, I’m not ready for those yet)!
David Scott Allen
March 25, 2026 at 11:04 amI don’t think they make cloth diapers for adults, Fran! I actually don’t drink this liqueur as much as bake with it! It adds great color and flavor to cakes, cookies, etc.
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
March 25, 2026 at 4:06 pmDavid, I just watched that mochi-making episode on ‘Dash and Lily’ that you mentioned on my blog. I love that mantra, “Listen to your mochi!” Plus, it looks like Dash had some problems with handling the sticky mochi dough!
David Scott Allen
March 25, 2026 at 4:42 pmWasn’t that a great episode!? Have you seen the series? If not, I highly recommend it. It’s very clever and upbeat for a holiday film. It is hard to handle the mochi dough. I had a friend who tried to teach me, and I did pretty well, but I should’ve listened to that mantra.
Gerlinde
March 25, 2026 at 5:24 pmWow, David , this is a fascinating read. I love a good digestif. If I ever make it back to Italy, I will ask for this.
David Scott Allen
March 25, 2026 at 6:58 pmIt is hard to find even in Italy, but I just heard there is an American version now!
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
March 29, 2026 at 6:52 amFantastic! After reading your last post, I was just about to Google a recipe for alkermes. Now I don’t have to! And it actually sounds quite do-able.
David Scott Allen
March 29, 2026 at 7:25 amIt is definitely do-able — it really couldn’t be easier, as long as you can find the cochineal bugs.
Jeff the Chef
March 29, 2026 at 8:24 amEww! Bugs! That aside, this looks fascinating! I’d be all about making something like this.
David Scott Allen
March 30, 2026 at 8:16 amLove the “Www! Bugs!” That might be my favorite comment of the year!
Pauline McNee
March 30, 2026 at 12:20 amDavid I am reading your stories back to front, but I will cope:) I’m a bit behind because I hurt my back playing pickleball, who says exercise is good for you:) So I’ve been laid low, not too much sitting. Anyway, how I would love to visit La Farmacia. I would be tempted to buy so many items I’m sure. Alkermes definitely sounds doable from your recipe, I love the spices contained within, very different and unique. I was interested to see that cloth diapers can still be found .How amazing that they are still used but inspiring, I would probably use muslin, what do you think? All up a lovely story, thanks David.
David Scott Allen
March 30, 2026 at 8:13 amI am with you. Napping has never gotten me to the hospital! Seriously, Pauline, I hope your back is better and it hasn’t affected your travels. As for the cloth diapers, they are making a real comeback here in the states for parents who odnt want everything going to the landfill. They really work so well, but muslin would work, too.
Recipe for Zuppa Inglese – Cocoa & Lavender
April 1, 2026 at 4:53 pm[…] The argument lasted for several minutes as Mark and I looked on an amusement. Eventually, their claws retracted, a tentative truce settled in, and I was able to buy my soaps, cologne, and Alkermes; off we went on our way. I’ve waited until now to open that bottle from Santa Maria Novella to compare it with my own. Maybe mine is not perfect, but it’s darn close and it works really well for making Zuppa Inglese for those who can’t pop over to Italy to pick up a random ingredient. (You will need to make the Alkermes at least 10 days before making Zuppa Inglese; the recipe is HERE.) […]
Inger
April 1, 2026 at 5:15 pmWe kept getting all the local spirits on the river cruises–so much fun! This one looks so interesting (as long as the anise flavor isn’t too strong). I remember all the discussion of cochineal bugs when I was selling natural bodycare as many red products needed to be declared non-vegan. But they were clearly natural!
David Scott Allen
April 3, 2026 at 11:03 amThe anise isn’t strong at all — the major flavor that comes through is clove. Local digestives and liqueurs are fascinating. Some make it big (Chartreuse) and other just barely hang on (Cent’erbe) — but it doesn’t mean they should be forgotten.
2pots2cook
April 3, 2026 at 6:08 amThere is no better digestif then the one homemade; especially so packed with flavours!
David Scott Allen
April 3, 2026 at 10:59 amThe spices in this are off the charts and they blend so well.
Karen (Back Road Journal)
April 3, 2026 at 1:52 pmYour digestif sounds so interesting and such a lovely color. It is one I’m sure I would enjoy as it seems to be more spicy than bitter.
David Scott Allen
April 4, 2026 at 9:38 amThis digestivo is definitely not bitter — I’m fact quite sweet, which is okay with me and works perfectly in the Zuppa Inglese.
Raymund
April 9, 2026 at 5:15 pmThis is such a fascinating liqueur, the color alone is wild, but then you read the spice list and realize this drink is basically a whole apothecary in a bottle.
David Scott Allen
April 10, 2026 at 4:06 pmI really like that description, Raymund. And it is spot on!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
April 17, 2026 at 10:02 pmOooh how cool is this? I used Aperol for my zuppa inglese (similar color.) I love these old pharmacies in Italy! In fact I have many saved on my google map!
Valentina
April 24, 2026 at 1:41 pmThis is so interesting and I look forward to making it, and then your Zuppa Inglese. I’m a bit intimidated by the cochineal, but I trust you. 🙂 ~Valentina