Great chefs don’t cut corners.
Stocks and broths are made in the kitchen with bones; they don’t come out of a box or can. Pie crusts aren’t made in the food processor. Hollandaise sauce doesn’t come from a jar, and it isn’t made in a blender.
But I am not a great chef. I am a cook. I confess to using boxed broth. Although I get great satisfaction pinching butter into flour to make a crust, I occasionally make pastry in the food processor when time is short. However, I am proud to say that I make hollandaise sauce only the old-fashioned way.
Chef Georges Perrier, from Philadelphia’s famed (and sadly closed) Le Bec Fin, didn’t cut corners. And I have a book of his recipes from my friend, Nan. When I make his recipes, I don’t cut corners.
Well, except for this Fig and Buttermilk Custard Tart. The first time, I did everything Georges did. When I got to the end of the “filling” section of the recipe, I realized I had done a lot of work and all I had in the end was fig jam. Why didn’t he say so?
I love this tart, but I don’t always have time to make the fig jam from scratch… and figs aren’t in season in March, anyway. And, all the Fig Jam I made last summer is gone. No, today, I used good quality fig jam from the supermarket and no one was the wiser… until now. I am bad at keeping culinary secrets.
Now you know that, on occasion, I (judiciously) cut corners.
~ David
Fig and Buttermilk Custard Tart
For the Crust
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/3 cup confectioners or superfine sugar
1 egg yolk
pinch salt
1 1/4 cups flour
1 tablespoon milk, if needed
For the Filling
1 1/4 cups best-quality fig jam
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
For the Topping
Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar. Add the yolk and mix well. Add the salt and flour and mix until no flour is discernible, scraping down the sides at least once. The dough should come together when pinched. If it seems too dry, add the milk and mix it through.
Dump the dough onto a sheet of plastic film or waxed paper, then wrap it tightly to bring it together into a ball; refrigerate for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C.
On a lightly floured surface, do you best to roll the dough into a 12 to 13-inch circle. Transfer the dough to a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom (I used a 10-inch springform pan); I assure you that it will break and tear. This dough (also known as pâte sablée) is very forgiving! Press the dough into the sides and bottom, trimming the edges and filling any crackers or tears with leftover dough. You can see how I constructed the sides first. I then added pieces of rolled-out dough to create a patchwork bottom, pressing it together and making it even using the bottom of a glass.
Line the dough with parchment or foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes then remove the lining and weights and bake 10 minutes longer until golden. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.
Reduce oven temperature to 350°F/180°C.
When cool, whisk together the jam and lemon zest and spread it on the bottom of the crust. It should be an even layer about 1/4-inch thick.
Whisk together the topping ingredients until smooth. Pour over the fig filling and bake for 20-25 minutes, until set. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature prior to serving.
Makes 1 10-inch tart, serving 6-8.
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Susan Oleksiw
March 23, 2019 at 3:54 pmIf it weren't for sensible shortcuts, some of us might never try new recipes. I love this one.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:36 pmWell, you have always been the most sensible person I know, Susan!
Sippity Sup
March 23, 2019 at 5:32 pmPhew! I was worried my "cook" status would not live up to your expectations! This custard tart however exceeds all expectations. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:37 pmVery cute, Greg – I am so far behind you I can't even see your dust!
Nutmeg
March 23, 2019 at 10:33 pmWOW that looks amazing
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:37 pmThanks, Carolyne!
Eha
March 23, 2019 at 11:19 pm'Let's start at the very beginning, it is a very good place to start' – so goes the famous saying I DO try to follow in food . . . well, with hollandaise and the rare mayonnaise I use I certainly do . . . . as for the rest . . . oh, lovely tart !!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:38 pmLove the Sound of Music reference, Eha – and mayo is another thing I love to make from scratch!
2pots2cook
March 24, 2019 at 7:20 amDead David ! I am obsessed with figs and enjoy reading the stories about this amazing, truly amazing and ancient fruit. There are so many dishes I make using them, fresh, dried and jammed but never combined with buttermilk. This tart is definitely on my "to do" List ! Thank you so much and I wish you have a pleasant day !
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:38 pmThe tartness of the buttermilk is such a nice foil for the figs, Davorka. Thanks so much for your sweet comment!
Mackay Sherry
March 24, 2019 at 12:57 pmI think shortcuts are a marvellous thing for the home cook. And why not? Good on you for using jam from the store bought jar:). Cheers sherry
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:39 pmYou bring up a good point, Sherry – if the ingredients are high quality, why not use them to make one's life easier?
Kirsten Honeyman
March 24, 2019 at 1:12 pmThis looks delicious, David. Heading out on a big trip soon, but will make this when I return!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:39 pmWhere is your next trip, Kirsten? I love traveling in your back pocket!
Ron
March 24, 2019 at 2:28 pmDavid, your tarts are like a fig newton on steroids. I love fig newtons, so that's a good thing. Cutting corners, heck when you get to be my age you got to save all the time you can. Thanks for a great recipe.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:40 pmYou know, Ron, I never thought of it being like a fig newton (I love them, too!), but I even love those homemade… the Italian cookie "cuccidate" (sp?) is just a really high-end newton!
Susan
March 24, 2019 at 3:45 pmlooks great!!!!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:41 pmThanks, Susan!
Unknown
March 24, 2019 at 6:07 pmI do not call them "shortcuts", just "better methods": stock in the pressure cooker, pastry in the food processor, egg whites to a stiff peaks using the mixer, stiff mayo in the FP + like the idea of using buttermilk (on fig jams and jam in general: I often replace them with quickly cooked come jams come fruit compotes: I find jams generally too sweet in desserts) ciao d, stefano
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:42 pmI ;like the way you think, Ste – better methods…. The nicest part of the buttermilk topping is that it balances so well with the sweetness of the jam/compote.
Valentina
March 24, 2019 at 6:11 pmI love figs and this looks great!
I remember back in the day when I used to try to do everything from scratch — I did little else at the time. These days we all NEED shortcuts here and there or we'd be starving. ;-D Happy weekend, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:42 pmI still try, Valentina, but some things will have to wait till retirement! Hope you had a good weekend!
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
March 24, 2019 at 7:46 pmAh, I think the secret in taking shortcuts is taking the right shortcuts David. We all live in the real world. Though I must confess I love figs so much I have a potted fig in my sunny back hallway hoping to grow my own someday 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
March 25, 2019 at 2:43 pmWe had a fig tree for a while here in Tucson, Inger, but the birds got the figs and we got frustrated. I just get them at the farmers market now… 🙂
Marcelle
March 25, 2019 at 3:52 pmDavid, this tart looks AH-mazing! I know I would be shameless and ask for a second serving…if there was any left! 🙂 You know I am definitely not above short cuts including store-bought pie crust and the occasional can of creamed soup in a casserole! I don't mind giving myself a break at times. It's just not always necessary to make it all from scratch to end up with delicious food. 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
March 26, 2019 at 12:52 pmThanks, Marcelle – you are so sweet! Everyone has their own threshold fro cutting corners and that is AOK! We all need to survive in a hectic world and, when there are children in the equation, you need to do everything possible to make it all work.
Fran @ Gday Souffle
March 26, 2019 at 9:45 amOoh, the combination of the figs and custard looks divine! I just ate a huge dinner but I could definitely make room for this pie! I used to make my own chicken stock, but the process seemed to use up a huge amount of resources- carrots, celery, leeks, and chicken bones seemed to cover my kitchen counter top! Now I only make my own fish stock- it's much easier to make and tastes a lot better than 'canned' stock.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 26, 2019 at 12:55 pmFran – one of my best hints for everyone is to keep a bag of onion pieces, carrot tips, bits of leek (the green parts), and the ends and leaves of celery in a plastic bag in the freezer – I actually have several bags going at once. When making broth, I use handsful of the frozen parts to add to my bones. It really cuts back on the resources!
On occasion, I will make meat broth with bones, and chicken stock with a carcass… but, like you, my go to is fish or shrimp broth… just no comparison.
Kelly | Foodtasia
March 26, 2019 at 3:37 pmDavid, this tart looks lovely. I'm intrigued by the topping and I've never had fig jam, so this will definitely be something new for me. Look forward to trying it!
As a busy mother of five, I cut every corner I can!
Cocoa & Lavender
March 27, 2019 at 11:54 amI am always impressed with moms who can raise five children, and still manage a blog! Brava!
This recipe is definitely one for you – so simple and different from others.
Kitchen Riffs
March 27, 2019 at 3:59 pmI was lucky enough to eat at Le Bec Fin once — incredible meal. And no corners cut there! But I'm a cook, too, so I DO cut corners sometimes. Although I almost always make my own pie crusts. Anyway, what a lovely recipe — wonderful tart. Thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 30, 2019 at 1:28 pmWasn’t that place amazing, John? I miss it.
I always make my own crusts… just depends on whether or not I use my fingers, my pastry cutter, or the processor!
Frank
March 28, 2019 at 11:58 amWhenever someone refers to me as a "chef", I immediately thank them but then politely correct them. Chef are professionals like George Perrier, and we need to respect them as such. At best, I'm a passionate amateur home cook, not a chef. I think that goes for most of us food bloggers.
Anyway, I'm a corner cutter, too. And I make no bones about it (no pun intended!) on my blog, as I think you know. But I guess I cut different corners. I'm happy to use a store-bought crust, but will always use homemade broth. (Well almost always…) Different strokes and all that.
By the way, have you seen the Netflix documentary King George? Looks fascinating.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 30, 2019 at 1:33 pmI have looked for the documentary, but can’t find it. I will keep searching!
Yes, I hate it when people call me a chef,,, although, I do allow Markipedia to say, “Oui, chef.” from time to time.
Frank
March 31, 2019 at 12:18 pmYou have Netflix I take it? check out "King Georges". And I hope Mark bows his head when he says that…
Cocoa & Lavender
March 31, 2019 at 12:53 pmFound it! Silly me – I was looking on streaming, but also thinking English or French history! Not Chef Perrier! Thanks, Frank!
Jean | DelightfulRepast.com
March 28, 2019 at 6:09 pmDavid, I feel just as you do about cutting corners. This gorgeous tart was a good example of very sensible corner cutting! And, yes, the hollandaise must be made the old-fashioned way.
Cocoa & Lavender
March 30, 2019 at 1:34 pmi so agree – there is no choice or hollaindaise!
Colette (Coco)
March 29, 2019 at 8:39 pmThe crust, the filling, but that topping, oh my! This is just stunning, D. I have to make it tonight.
Wishing you a very lazy w/end. xo
Cocoa & Lavender
March 30, 2019 at 1:34 pmHope you love it, Colette!
John | heneedsfood
March 31, 2019 at 10:05 amIf I had a fig tree, I'd be making fig jam every season. As much as I love them, I wish they weren't so expensive here. Perhaps I'll plant one when we sell up and move to the mountains – something that's happening in the near future 😉
In the meantime I'll stare at your gorgeous tart. Would you believe I actually have a jar of good fig jam in the fridge? Hmmm ..
Cocoa & Lavender
March 31, 2019 at 12:55 pmOf course I would believe you have good fig jam in your fridge, John… I would be otherwise disappointed…. 😊
Tell me more of the imminent move! How exciting!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
April 1, 2019 at 8:54 pmThe famous chefs have others in their kitchens that do everything from scratch for them so why shouldn't we avail ourselves of shortcuts to make our life in the kitchen easier. I don't think your pie would look any better than the one here and I won't give away your secrets.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 1, 2019 at 9:04 pmActually, Karen, I think that is absolutely true! But wouldn’t it be fun to have an entire staff doing things for you?
Christina | Christina's Cucina
April 7, 2019 at 12:16 amLove this post and I do cut corners sometimes, too. Your tart looks lovely, and I've tried that fig jam and it's good! 🙂 I'm sure no one would complain!
Cocoa & Lavender
April 7, 2019 at 2:51 pmThere were no complaints, Christina, least of all from the cook!
Emma @ Bake Then Eat
April 14, 2019 at 4:50 amI think on occasion we all cut corners, sometimes there is just not enough time in the day to do everything. I have a real soft spot for fig jam so I think I am going to love this tart.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 14, 2019 at 4:13 pmAnd the judicious cutting of corners is just that… judicious!
Restaurants in Baguio
April 16, 2019 at 8:18 amThis looks very delicious and yummy. Can't wait to try this this Easter. Thank you for sharing this recipe of yours.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 16, 2019 at 1:46 pmYou are most welcome! I hope you enjoy, and Happy Easter!