Some foods just go together. They “marry” well.
Popcorn, butter, and salt. (Okay, almost anything with butter and salt.) Lamb, rosemary, and Dijon mustard. Tomatoes, olives, and capers. Ahi tuna, ginger, and sesame.
They just work. They become go-to combinations for our every night meals.
Another favorite is mushrooms, nuts, and cognac.
Today, using a few of the Piedmontese hazelnuts my friend Nancy brought back from Italy, I bring you a recipe inspired by some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms I found at the store. I can’t resist them when they are in season!
The sauce combines chanterelles, some pink oyster mushrooms (any oyster mushroom will work — I got these from Laura’s Locals at our farmers market), shallots, herbs, cognac, and a bit of cream. I served it on pappardelle and topped it with chopped hazelnuts.
The crunch of the nuts with the earthy, meaty mushrooms is truly delicious. Add a little Parmigiano-Reggiano and it is pretty much heaven on a plate.
It’s a great marriage. You may now kiss the cook.
~ David
Pappardelle with Chanterelles and Hazelnuts
Inspired by a recipe from Food & Wine
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound chanterelle mushrooms, sliced
4 ounces oyster mushrooms, sliced
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 large shallot, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
pinch crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
3/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup Cognac
1/3 cup heavy cream
12 ounces pappardelle
1/4 cup snipped chives
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and chopped
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Bring a large pot of water to a simmer.
In a large, deep skillet, cook the butter over moderate heat until lightly browned. Add the chanterelles and oyster mushrooms, season well with salt and black pepper and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are golden — about 8-10 minutes. Add the shallot, thyme and crushed red pepper and cook over moderately high heat for 5 minutes, stirring. Add the vinegar and cook, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated. Add the stock and Cognac; simmer until reduced by half, 10 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper.
Add a fistful of salt to the pot of boiling water, add the pappardelle, and cook until al dente. Drain and add the pasta to the skillet, along with the cream. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the pasta is coated with the sauce, about 2 minutes. Stir in chives. Divide among four shallow bowls and top with the chopped hazelnuts. Pass the Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table.
Serves 4.
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Frank
November 23, 2019 at 2:26 pmThis does sound very nice indeed, David! I have to say it's not a combination that I've tried yet but I can certainly see how it would work. May give this a go soon!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 12:42 amWell, it might not be traditional to Italy, but it’s a great combination, Frank!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
November 23, 2019 at 3:30 pmWe used to go chanterelle hunting in Scotland when I was little! Oh, it was so much fun! I just went mushroom hunting in England last month and did find some winter chanterelles, although the porcini were the more abundant!
Like Frank, I've never had this combination, but would love it, I'm sure! Hazelnuts from Italy are tops! Bravo, David!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 12:45 amThe hazelnuts have been amazing this year, Christina! Lucky me that two of my friends brought them back!
John | heneedsfood
November 23, 2019 at 8:42 pmPucker up, David! The colour of those oyster mushrooms is out of this world. I must give this combination a go sometime!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 12:45 amAren’t those oyster mushrooms gorgeous, John?
Eha
November 23, 2019 at 11:53 pmMy digestive juices are suddenly very excited ! Went talked to Mr Google – no chanterelles same as in the Northern hemisphere here but naturally no shortage of oyster ones. Love the combination . . . and being able to reach for the cognac bottle – oft my favourite one in cooking . . .
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 12:47 amThis would be good with any combination of wild and cultivated mushrooms, Eha! And the Cognac really adds a nice dimension!
Unknown
November 24, 2019 at 5:49 pm…mushrooms and nuts let's bring back the nut roast! (which I love and still make). …on food combinations: do u know The Flavour Thesaurus David? lovely, useful book. ciao, stef
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 12:51 amStefano – I don’t know The Flavour Thesaurus – I think I need to find a copy! And I don’t know the nut roast, either. Do tell!
Fran @ Gday Souffle
November 25, 2019 at 3:28 amCongrats on finding those chanterelles- although it sounds like Costco is the place to get them! Pucker up, David- here comes a big smooch!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 4:06 amThanks, Fran! Lucky find especially as I don’t usually shop at Costco!
Jeff the Chef
November 25, 2019 at 3:53 amThat's about the most beautiful dish I've ever seen! I recently had my hands on a bunch of hazelnuts and with I'd had this post handy at the time. But it gives me a reason to go buy some more! I'm such a fan of pasta, and of hazelnuts, and of any sort of mushroom. Nice work, man!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 25, 2019 at 4:08 amWow, Jeff – and that is about the nicest compliment I could get! I agree with you – hazelnuts are the best and are underutilized! Thanks for making my day.
Gerlinde de Broekert
November 25, 2019 at 4:54 amI love chanterelles and I love hazelnuts but I don’t think I have ever cooked with oyster mushrooms. A great looking pasta dish.
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:17 amOyster mushrooms have a wonderful nutty quality, Gerlinde!
Priya
November 25, 2019 at 5:56 amthis recipe sounds delicious david. I love the addition of mushrooms in my pastas.
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:18 amThanks, Priya — we are having mushroom pasta fir dinner this evening!
All That I'm Eating
November 25, 2019 at 9:21 amI know just what you mean. Mushrooms and hazelnuts are so good together, funnily enough the only time I've ever tried them together was in a dish similar to this!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:19 amI guess that proves my idea that this is a good culinary marriage, Caroline!
Ron
November 25, 2019 at 11:23 amDavid, a marriage made in heaven indeed. My son brought me a kilo of fresh shelled Oregon Filberts when he visited this past summer and they've been languishing in the freezer every since awaiting just such a union. Our chanterelle season has come and gone, but we still get a good variety of mushrooms to try in your Pappardelle with Chanterelles and Hazelnuts. Thanks for this wonderful marriage.
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:20 amWhat a wonderful gift, Ron! I’m so happy when someone brings me nuts from a special place!
Sippity Sup
November 25, 2019 at 4:30 pm"Schmmmack!" GREG
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:20 amBack atchya, Greg!
Gloria Baker
November 26, 2019 at 12:39 amLove this , really delicious ! Im adding your blog to my Blog list David !
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:21 amThanks, Gloria! Let me know what you think.
Sherry's Pickings
November 26, 2019 at 1:06 ami'm amazed that your friend was able to bring hazelnuts into your country, david. i think we'd be in massive trouble if we did that here! besides that, this dish sounds marvellous and a great combo. mushrooms and nuts – perfect!.
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:22 amI’m only beginning to learn from you how strict Australia is in this regard! Is it okay if they are vacuu packed?
Eha
November 29, 2019 at 2:00 amDavid, as long as one declares every skerrick of food, one does not end in jail (up to ten years!), or cop a fine (up to $A 420,000!) or get a criminal record ! Have just checked with Mr Google – mushrooms, however they are packed, are not on the automatic permitted list but the inspectors from two departments may allow. A huge amount is confiscated on the borders every day . . . the lookout mainly is for any home cooked items, sausages, cheesed, plants, spices etc. But then we have no food generated problems so far . . . 🙂 !
Kelly | Foodtasia
November 26, 2019 at 8:27 amDavid, the photo of the fresh mushrooms is so stunning! A lovely pasta dish with amazing flavors. I will definitely have to look for the mushrooms at our local market. Your use of ingredients is so inspiring!
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:23 amI think mushrooms are on if the most beautiful things in nature to photograph, Kelly! Thanks for your kind words!
2pots2cook
November 26, 2019 at 8:50 amAbsolutely amazed with this combination of flavours; perfect week dinner and soooo tasty ! White wine aside, I presume 🙂
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:25 amAbsolutely on the wine front, Davorka! This is a lovely weeknight meal – using any kind of mushroom!
The-FoodTrotter
November 26, 2019 at 11:07 amSuch a charming seasonal recipe. Very delicate, and probably delighful 🙂
Cocoa and Lavender
November 27, 2019 at 12:26 amThanks, Romain! I do love seasonal menus!
Valentina
November 27, 2019 at 7:50 amSuch a beautiful recipe David. I would not be able to get enough of this. There's no pasta I love more than Pappardelle, for starters. I haven't had this flavor combination before, but I can almost taste it reading about it, and I know I'm going to love it.
I hope you and Mark have a wonderful Thanksgiving! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2019 at 2:43 pmThanks, Valentina – I, too, love pappardelle but, for me, I love ANY pasta! 🙂
Kitchen Riffs
November 27, 2019 at 4:15 pmThis looks wonderful — and such a neat way to celebrate chanterelle season. I haven't had this combo of flavors, but it sounds excellent. Thanks. And Happy Thanksgiving!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2019 at 2:43 pmI love that chanterelles are still one thing that we can only really get in season, John!
Emma @ Bake Then Eat
November 28, 2019 at 9:16 pmThis is certainly a flavour marriage made in heaven! Beautiful dish David.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2019 at 2:43 pmThanks, Emma!
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
November 28, 2019 at 9:30 pmEach ingredient picture was more beautiful than the last David! I'm sure they married perfectly! Happy Thanksgiving!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2019 at 2:44 pmHappily ever after, Inger! 🙂
Andrea_TheKitchenLioness
November 30, 2019 at 7:44 pmDear David, what a lovely combination of flavors and textures in this dish – a perfect winter pasta dish!
Liebe Gruesse und eine schoene Adventszeit!!!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 3, 2019 at 2:44 pmVielen Dank, Andrea – Wie sagt Mann "Chanterelles" auf Deautsch?
Provence WineZine
December 5, 2019 at 10:59 pmThis looks divine….would you please just write a cook book?
Cocoa & Lavender
December 10, 2019 at 12:05 amWill you find me a publisher??