While Calissons d’Aix are a holiday treat —they are one of the thirteen traditional desserts served on Christmas Eve — I had my first on a beautiful summer’s day in Aix-en-Provence while I was there celebrating my 50th birthday.
Mark and I traipsed around the Provence countryside for two
glorious weeks with our hosts Susan, Towny, and Alex, tasting and testing every
specialty food and wine you can imagine: Cavaillon melons, fruits confits, épeautre
(a grain similar to farro), all manner of pastries, cheeses direct from a goat
farm, Rosé wine in its native habitat…
We fully explored the region: le Pont du Gard, the Roman Theatre in Orange, the Papal Palace in Avignon, Les Calanques, l’Abbaye de Sénanque, les Bories, the achingly beautiful hill towns of Gordes, Bonnieux, and Roussillon, and — one day — we picnicked lavishly in the Fôret des Cèdres,,,
And then there were the daily markets – I do believe we visited one almost every day. Cucuron is probably my favorite, followed by Lourmarin, but there is also Apt and the Arab Market in Marseille, and – the reason for today’s post – Aix-en-Provence.
After perusing Le Jacquard Français boutique (and perhaps making a purchase), we popped into a little pastry shop and I bought a small box of Calissons, for I had known of their existence for quite some time.
My desire to make these at home started that day, but there were a few key ingredients not easily sourced in the United States. For starters, the wheat starch paper, know in Europe as “host” paper (as in communion host). Also, melon confit isn’t available here — and it’s pretty hard to find in Provence, too.
Ten years later, equipped with host paper from Italy (which I use for Panforte di Siena) and melon and orange confit Susan and Towny brought from Apt, Towny and I made these at the Christmas holiday. They aren’t difficult to make, although, this being our first effort, we were, at several points, unsure of what to do.
Like many things one makes at home, they aren’t exactly like the commercially-manufactured
version. But, things made at home are
sometimes better, perhaps more authentic (these definitely were!).
They are especially tasty when paired with Vin Cuit (again, traditionally served at the holidays). But if you have the melon confit and the host paper, make them now — because any time is a good time to have a Calisson.
~ David
Ingredients
- 250 grams ground almonds
- 250 grams confectioners sugar
- 2 to 3 tablespoons orange blossom water
- 500 grams melon confit, cut into small pieces (see notes below)
- 50 grams of orange confit, cut into small pieces
- • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
- 1 egg white
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
- 1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar
- • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
- 1 10-inch x 15-inch sheet of wheat starch paper (see notes below)
Instructions
- For the Fruit Paste: Place the ground almonds, confectioners sugar and orange blossom water into a medium saucepan and cook over low heat for about 7 to 8 minutes until a uniform paste comes together that, when touched, no longer sticks to your fingers. Break this almond mixture into pieces and add to the bowl of a strong food processor. Add the melon and orange confit pieces. Pulse a couple of times, then process until everything is fully mixed. You don’t want any big lumps of the fruit confit.
- Place the wheat starch paper on a rimmed 10-inch x 15-inch baking pan, and set aside. On a marble or stone countertop, using your hands, form the fruit paste into as flat a rectangle as possible. Scrape the rectangle onto a piece of cling film, cover with another piece of cling film and roll to a rectangle approximately 10-inches x 15-inches. Remove the top piece of cling film, and carefully flip the paste into the baking sheet on top of the wheat starch paper. Remove the other piece of cling film and continue to press into the baking pan to fit the piece of wheat starch paper. If it’s sticking too much, use a wet spatula to smooth out the top.
- Let the fruit paste sit, uncovered, in a warm, dry place for up to seven days until it reaches a firm and dry (only slightly tacky) consistency. Using a Calisson-shaped cutter, cut as many pieces as possible, and as close together as possible, to avoid wasting any of the fruit paste. It helps to dip the cutter in water from time to time. Also, you need to press hard on the cutter to get through the wheat starch paper. Alternatively, using a wet, sharp knife, cut the Calissons into elongated diamond shapes. Set cut Calissons on a tray and let dry while you prepare the Royal icing.
- For the Royal Icing: Beat together the egg white with the lemon juice on medium high, until well blended. Sift in the confectioners sugar and beat on low speed until it is well combined and smooth. Lift the beaters and let some of the icing fall back on itself. If it forms a slight lump on top of the other icing, it is ready. If it is too thin, add more powdered sugar. If it’s too thick, add a drop of water at a time until it’s the right consistency. Scrape the royal icing into a pastry bag fitted with a fine round tip. Start icing by outlining each Calisson, then filling in the middle. It sounds really tedious, but it goes pretty quickly. Once you have done all the icing, place them on a baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes. This will set the icing.
- Makes about 4 dozen.
- Notes:
- • You can substitute dried or glacéed apricots for the candied melon, but the flavor won’t be quite the same.
- • Wheat starch paper can be replaced with rice paper – whatever you use needs to be edible. Parchment is not a good substitute.
© 2024 Copyright Cocoa & Lavender
Jeff the Chef
April 18, 2020 at 7:19 amI had no idea that traditional Epiphany desserts were a thing! I’ve obviously been missing out, because these little cookies look marvelous.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 18, 2020 at 8:17 amI remember learning about the 13 traditional desserts for Epiphany, thinking, “Well, now, there is a civilization!” These are a treat. Someone asked if they are cookies or candies… I said, “Yes.”
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
April 18, 2020 at 7:28 amDavid, your photos make me want to hop on a plane and head right over to Provence! (Alas, I must wait until the plague subsides). I suppose making the melon and orange confit wouldn’t be too hard to make- slow-cooking the fruit in its own juices, or maybe in oil? I wonder if you could substitute parchment paper for the wheat starch paper? Thanks!
Cocoa & Lavender
April 18, 2020 at 8:18 amI wish we could use parchment! But rice paper (edible) is widely available and a good second choice. The paper won’t come off so it needs to be edible. Thanks for that question, Fran… I amended the recipe to add that info!
Gerlinde
April 18, 2020 at 7:37 amI brought an box of Calissons d’Aix and other delicious sweets from Provence home on March 15th to share with my friends. Since I was quarantined I couldn’t, so I ate them all by myself.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 18, 2020 at 8:20 amI would have happily eaten the entire box, too! Aren’t they good?
Christina Conte
April 18, 2020 at 1:58 pmOh, I’d so love these! I have many sweet teeth! 😉 Btw, I bought rice paper on Amazon many years ago to make torrone. Don’t even ask how it went 🙁
Cocoa & Lavender
April 19, 2020 at 9:13 pmI hope you have left over rice paper! I’ve wanted to make torrone for years — maybe I should avoid it? As for sweet teeth? I’m imagine we are neck and neck!
Valentina
April 18, 2020 at 4:05 pmWhat delightful little, delicious cookies! Your travel photos are so beautiful, too! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
April 19, 2020 at 9:14 pmThanks, Valentina! I very rarely do little treats like this — but, when I do, I go all the way!
Eha
April 18, 2020 at 5:02 pmOh how beautiful ! Methinks for many of us who have been fortunate to travel, Provence is an area we have unconditionally loved and always remembered. What a great opportunity to dream of the tomorrows. Have never partaken of these elegant tidbits . . . . quite new, quite different . . . . but you are tempting us with an enticing plate I would like to try and copy and at least taste . . . . best to both of you . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
April 19, 2020 at 9:15 pmProvence is an absolutely magical place, Eha… in that, I am sure we agree! We very much look forward to going back someday…
Jill
April 18, 2020 at 8:28 pmI believe this is one of the many sweets we tried in Aix in 2014. Brings back wonder memories.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 19, 2020 at 9:16 pmI cannot believe that that was six years ago, Jill! How could time possibly fly this quickly?
Frank Fariello
April 19, 2020 at 11:23 amBelieve it or not, I haven’t yet been to Aix. And I even had a good friend who lived there for many years. (She’s now in Paris.) But I’ll get there one day, once this awful season has passed…
Cocoa & Lavender
April 19, 2020 at 9:17 pmFrank, I think once this all passes, we will be much more aware of what we need to do and not put it off! Whether it is Aix, or Paris, or any wonderful place in Italy… We need to go now, and not always assume there’s time ahead.
Towny Manfull
April 19, 2020 at 1:55 pmDavid, this article was a great trip down memory lane. What fun we all had in Provence together! I wish we could jump on a plane and go back there tomorrow.
Also, it was so much fun being your sous-chef for this Calissons project. I think this is one of those recipes that the more often you make it, the easier it becomes. The taste of our first batch was spot on and better than most of the tourist varieties one often finds outside of Aix. I think we need to return to Aix to take a master class in Calissons d’Aix! Thoughts?
Cocoa & Lavender
April 19, 2020 at 9:20 pmThat was one of the best trips of our lives, Towny — but mostly it was because we were there with you, Susan, and Alex. We hold those memories so dear.
It was fun doing these together — I really want/need to find a better cookie cutter! A class in calisson making would be great fun!
2pots2cook
April 21, 2020 at 4:59 amAbsolutely agree on how beautiful and seducing Provence is. Must go there after all of these restrictions are over. Adding melon confit to the list ! 🙂 Be safe ! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
April 23, 2020 at 1:54 amProvence captured our hearts immediately. Davorka — you definitely need to go with your son as soon as all this craziness is over!
Ron
April 21, 2020 at 9:20 amDavid, thanks so much for sharing you memories with us. This is a completely new treat for me. I don’t believe I’ve experienced anything like Calissons D’Aix. You’ve also introduced me to wheat starch paper. An ingredient I must explore.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 23, 2020 at 1:55 amRon, I must tell you that I wish I had purchased 10 times the amount of wheat starch paper when I was in Siena! Who knew I would need it for more than panforte.
John / Kitchen Riffs
April 22, 2020 at 9:17 amSigh, travel may be a bit iffy for awhile. But I suddenly have a burning desire to visit Provence! Or anywhere, really, in the Mediterranean. I’ve never had Calissons d’Aix, so thanks for the recipe.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 23, 2020 at 1:56 amThe day will come soon when we can get to traveling again, John. In the meantime, we can travel vicariously through the foods we eat.
Emma @ Bake Then Eat
April 22, 2020 at 8:29 pmThis post made me a little sad because I won’t be travelling this year to any of the beautiful places in Europe that I usually visit, this recipe is so beautiful and full of sunshine which is a good thing 🙂 Stay safe.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 23, 2020 at 1:57 amNot being able to travel is making us sad, as well. But, staying safe now means traveling again in the future! Take care of yourself, Emma.
priya
April 23, 2020 at 8:18 amFirst of all, I love that market view. Fresh farmer’s market in any city is my Favorite place in the world. I am surprised to see that perfect royal icing. totally love this.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 23, 2020 at 8:24 amPriya – we often pick our vacation destinations because of the open air markets! Cooking while traveling is our favorite thing to do. May I tell you a secret? This was my first time making royal icing! I was lucky!
sippitysup
April 23, 2020 at 10:41 am13 traditional desserts? Now that’s an epiphany… GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
April 24, 2020 at 7:41 amAnd such a civilized concept!
Heidi | The Frugal Girls
April 23, 2020 at 1:47 pmWhat gorgeous markets… and these cookies look incredible!
Cocoa & Lavender
April 24, 2020 at 7:42 amThanks, Heidi. They were fun to make. And, yes, the markets in Provence are amazing. If you ever need recommendations, let me know!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
April 24, 2020 at 12:01 pmWe should have been in Aix this fall but that is not meant to be as it is with so many others. You brought back nice memories of happy times there so many thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
April 26, 2020 at 8:38 amI am so sorry, Karen —we are all sad about our postponed travel plans. But I, for one, refuse to believe that we won’t travel ever again. Those of us (you especially) who love travel will need to be out there as soon as it’s safe!
John
April 25, 2020 at 2:40 pmI haven’t cooked with candied melon for at least a couple of decades. I remember I struggled to find it in Sydney but eventually did, and it wasn’t cheap.
The use of melon, orange and orange blossom water really has me intrigued. They must be delicious. As for those markets and hill-top villages – I need to get back to Europe!
Cocoa & Lavender
April 26, 2020 at 8:40 amThe markets of France and Italy are so amazing, John — and they used to be in Germany but last time we were there, there were none to be found. They have been taken over by supermarkets and discount stores. Awful. Just glad they are strong in my two favorite countries!
Susan Manfull
April 27, 2020 at 3:23 pmWhat a treat to have shared this inaugural batch — they were delicious! Even better was sharing the celebration of your (big) birthday with you in Provence. Reading this post and seeing your photos brought it all back (I even felt warm momentarily!) –thank goodness for memories! Great post!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 1, 2020 at 9:06 amIt was so much fun having you and Towny here for that inaugural batch — you supplied a lot of support to Towny and me as we fumbled along. And the memories of my 50th are among the best of my life!
sherry
April 27, 2020 at 8:33 pmall those gorgeous photos! i was thinking rice paper would be a good substitute if it had to be edible…
Cocoa & Lavender
May 1, 2020 at 9:07 amRice paper is definitely a good substitute, Sherry! Glad you enjoyed the photos!
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
May 7, 2020 at 11:10 amSounds like a perfect birthday David! Loved the food shot on Instagram–and everything else is gorgeous too!
David Scott Allen
May 9, 2020 at 10:16 amThanks, Inger. It was a great way to turn 50… hard to believe that was 12 years ago!