When I was a young musician, playing principal bass for the Albany Symphony Orchestra, the chair of the ASO board had three businesses in town: a high-end store for audio equipment, Albany Records (a then-fledgling record producer specializing in contemporary American music), and a Persian rug store. You can see from the first two that they fed his passion for music; the rug store was his family business.
My orchestra job paid a whopping $3,500 a year (!), so I was usually in the market for an interesting day job. Within my first five years, I had been a tour guide at the NY State Capitol and Governor’s Mansion (under Cuomo the Elder), a tech operator for public radio, an announcer for the classical radio station, a caterer, florist, public relations and marketing manager, and of course, freelance musician and private music teacher. So much fun in such a short time…
When the position as manager of the rug store suddenly became available one Thanksgiving weekend, I jumped at the chance to take over. I went directly to the board chair and boldly asked if he would hire me. “What do you know about Persian rugs?” he rightly asked. “Nothing,” I said, “but give me the weekend, and then ask me.” I ran to the library and took out every book on the subject. I studied the patterns, design motifs, and color combinations.
Shah Abbas, seraband, gül, and abrash are terms that danced in my dreams. Hot pink next to orange and other wild colors meant it was a Mashad. Striped side binding told me it was an Afshar. An octagonal medallion repeated in a geometric array in red and black could only be an Afghani Bokhara. Big open fields of pastel colors with a central medallion was a no-brainer – it was a Kerman. A truly refined curvilinear pattern with leafy motifs was mostly likely an Isfahan. Or a Kashan. Or was it a Nain? Gosh it was confusing.
That next Monday, I met him in the store and we walked the gauntlet of carpets rolled up and stacked on end against the walls. Every so often he pulled one out and we would open it. “What is it?” he’d ask. I would tell him to the best of my knowledge and add any identifying patterns or colors that brought me to my decision. I think I scored about a 90% and was hired on the spot. My love of Persian carpets had begun.
It didn’t stop there, though. I soon became fascinated with the music, art, and — surprise! — the cuisine. When I went to New York City on buying trips, I stopped in little Persian bistros for a kebab and some doogh (a tart yoghurt-based drink). Until I got a Persian cookbook, I only knew the kebabs — but there is so much more. I am fascinated by the use of sour and sweet in savory dishes. Dried Persian limes, barberries, sumac, and citrus are used to pucker us up, while tamed by sweet raisins, quince, apples, pears, and root vegetables, and further transformed by the use of exquisite earthy spices like cumin, sesame seeds, turmeric, and saffron.
I paired today’s dish with a wonderful 2017 Côtes-du-Rhône from Clos St. Antonin. It was a very nice pairing and I invite you to read about it on the Provence WineZine.
نوش جان (noosh e jan — literally, “I hope this food nourishes your soul.”)
~ David
Minimally adapted from Saveur Magazine.
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Ron
December 5, 2020 at 7:35 amDavid, what a remarkable life journey you’ve been and are on. I also enjoy Persian style rugs, but we only have a small prayer rug I brought back from Iran many moons ago.
Your Goat Meatballs with Carrots and Potatoes dish looks and sounds wonderful and I do believe you’ve made the perfect wine pairing. I like the simplicity of the ingredients, as some recipes from that part of the world require many spices and such that I can’t easily find. Other than using lamb instead of goat (never seen it here), all is in the pantry. Thanks for sharing.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:17 amThis would be perfect with lamb, Ron. And you’re right, there are so many spices required for person cuisine… But this one is pretty simple and straightforward. Yes, I have had a wonderful time in my life. As soon as the stupid virus is done with, it will continue!
Ron
December 11, 2020 at 9:56 amPlease do continue David, as I’m still hoping to share a meal and a bottle of wine with you and Mark when you visit Scandinavia one day.
John / Kitchen Riffs
December 5, 2020 at 8:54 amThe only thing I know about Persian rugs is I can’t afford the ones I really want. They’re beautiful. I worked a block away from ABC in NYC for a year or so and sometimes wandered over to look at their rugs during my lunch hour. (Fishs Eddy was close, too, and several blocks away was the Union Square farmers market; such a great part of town!). Anyway, I never see goat in my supermarket and almost never see ground lamb — both require a trip to a real butcher (always a treat, never a chore). This is such a nice, simple dish, but I’ll bet the flavor is glorious. Thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:31 amI used to have a lot of fun playing in ABC Carpets, too… it’s like a toy store for me. Honestly, I ended up buying most of my carpets online!
Goat is hard to find but I know lamb will work well. And I agree — a trip to the butcher is like akin to visiting ABC Carpets!
Aarthi
December 5, 2020 at 2:45 pmLoved reading thru your journey , and these carpets are simply amazing! Your plate is truly comforting , that curry color is simply gorgeous , love how you have used these spices , and goat to make these meatballs . I use a lot of goat than lamb , and this recipe is perfect, David! thanks for sharing the recipe. Happy holiday and Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:32 amThanks so much, Aarhti. The spices do make for a gorgeous color!
Eha Carr
December 5, 2020 at 5:24 pmDavid – I have read the above twice. If I put down even the most basic thoughts and facts in my mind you would have to delete me for length 😉 ! Just: I arrived here as a 13-year-old migrant girl with a mother unable to work and a lawyer father whose career was not acknowledged and who hand-cut rubber soles for Dunlop tennis shoes so I could have five years of high school and six years at university. We had 15 borrowed pounds to our name upon arrival. David: you and I did not fill our wallets quite the same way . . . but we both managed as many jobs it seems. What glorious fun !!! Now if one reads enough one comes to realize Persian cooking is probably the most elegantly complex and sophisticated in the world. I love it and I love goat which I can easily get . . . shall put both together ‘your way’ before Christmas ! . . . take care . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:36 amI didn’t know your history, Eha — while difficult, I am hoping people helped you all along the way. I know they did for me.
Glad goat is readily available to you! Let me know what you think. Big hugs, d
sippitysup
December 5, 2020 at 6:00 pmFascinating! I can see the color of turmeric in these rugs, in this dish, and in your words. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:37 amThat does make me wonder, Greg — do they use turmeric for dying wool? It makes sense because I can never get it out of my aprons!
Gerlinde
December 5, 2020 at 8:05 pmDavid, you have some good stories to tell. Oh, those years when we were young. When I first came to this country I was hired on the weekends to work at a winery. I knew nothing about wines . It was hilarious but I sold a lot. I have never been a friend of goat meat but I do like lamb.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:39 amHow fun to work at a winery, Gerlinde! I bet you learned a thing or two while there! I think you would be okay with farm-raised goat — almost indistinguishable from lamb. But lamb is great, too!
Cathy Hackert
December 6, 2020 at 5:56 amHi David !
After playing with Albany Symphony since 1982, I can tell you that my annual income is only a little higher than what you quoted! Four GRAMMY nominations and one win so far. Anyway…this recipe looks great. Can I do it in a tagine? Could I sub in beef, chicken or turkey for the goat/lamb? Outside of me, no one will eat them. Keep up the great work. I enjoy your limoncello and still have the cherry liqueur from a few years back stored in the fridge for special occasions!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 6, 2020 at 7:42 amThat is sad, Cathy — but I know there have not been a lot of raises in the ASO.
You could definitely do this in a tagine, and beef and turkey would be great substitutes for the goat/lamb. I’m making a new liqueur now — with lemon verbena! Can’t wait to try it!
Kirsten Honeyman
December 6, 2020 at 7:46 amDavid, I love this post! I didn’t know this bit of personal history. What a lovely experience that job landed you. You found yourself in a fascinating world of history, culture , and design. Wonderful! Thanks for sharing.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 19, 2020 at 9:14 amI’ve been lucky to do many different things, and have enjoyed them all, Kirsten!
Chef Mimi
December 6, 2020 at 7:54 amWhat a great story! I bet you own some fabulous rugs… I actually bought one on EBay from an import guy in California, and oddly enough, his son married the daughter of an acquaintance of mine where I live in Oklahoma. Small world. Great rug. Persian food really is beautiful and fabulous.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 19, 2020 at 9:16 amI have some really nice rugs — nothing spectacular, but all wonderful and practical pieces. Funny story about the eBay guy… I have bought my share on eBay, too.
Jill Becker
December 6, 2020 at 9:04 amI so remember a “quick visit” of at least 2 hours as went went to find rugs for UApresents. Was fun!!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 19, 2020 at 9:16 amAh, yes, our afternoon with Majid! That was fun.
Carolyne
December 6, 2020 at 12:57 pmA lovely post from start to finish! The photos of your carpets and I had no idea you had actually sold them for a while. You are a man of many talents.
xo
CKA
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:41 amTalents? The jury is out. But interests? I have so many! Happy Christmas to you and Andrew! XO
sherry
December 6, 2020 at 3:29 pmi know nothing about persian rugs david but i adore persian cuisine. i first got interested years ago when a friend married a persian and she learned to cook his fave dishes. now we have two young Iranian friends who have further inspired me. so many great flavours…
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:42 amI am often inspired by my Persian students, Sherry, and am bold enough to ask for their mothers’ recipes! They are always so good!
Valentina
December 6, 2020 at 5:54 pmWhat an interesting journey you’ve been on. Your music and art knowledge plays a big role in your cooking, I’m sure.
I love that you went back that on that Monday and proved to the owner of the shop that you were a Persian rug expert. Proof that when one sets their mind to something . . .
I’ve always loved Persian food and cooking — in college I had a couple of good Persian friends. When they’d have me over for dinner — there were always parents, grandparents, kids, friends, nemerous beautifully presented, colorful dishes, everyone participating . . . and it was always just a “normal” night. It was this special every night.
And on a final note, these photos are really beautiful — I especially love the spices on the rug. Oh, and of course, I wish this recipe could be tonight’s dinner. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:45 amI know what you mean, Valentina – I have seen many a “normal” night like that in so many cultures – everyone is welcome at the table. Such a good way to be! I think music and art and carpets all influence our cooking, as they are all arts and are intertwined.
Christina Conte
December 6, 2020 at 10:55 pmYou ambitious thing you! Kudos on your feat of being hired after teaching yourself about Persian rugs in one weekend! Amazing!
The goat meatballs look fabulous and I love everything in the recipe and would also love it with lamb. (We were supposed to have lamb today, but change of plans! Seems to be the norm rather than the exception recently.) Thanks for another fab recipe, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:46 am“Change of plans” should be the motto for 2020, right? Thanks, Christina – I think you would love these meatballs!
Raymund
December 7, 2020 at 10:52 pmFrom Orchestra Bass Player to Rug Expert now a Food Blogger and a Sommelier too… Thats a very diverse experience. I cant memorize all of that on one weekend :p Impressive
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:48 amHaha – I like to keep busy! Lucky that, as a musician, memorizing both sounds and patterns was something I learned – it has helped me out so many times and, yes, even in cooking!
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
December 9, 2020 at 10:02 pmLooks delicious and healthful (soooo needed now between baking and covid) and can you believe I actually have all the ingredients for this! Well, lamb, not goat 🙂 What a great adventure and story!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:48 amGoat is rare – and even lamb is unusual in most homes, Gerlinde. Glad you have the ingredients – and hope you liked it!
Jean | Delightful Repast
December 10, 2020 at 7:43 amDavid, what a beautiful plate of food! Perfectly paired with that Rhone. And a way to make use of my leftover chickpea flour (which I decided I hate in gluten-free baking, but would like in a savory application like this). Loved reading about your music and rug background.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:49 amJean – this is the first use of chickpea flour like this – and it was great! The Rhône wine was really nice with it, too.
Priya
December 10, 2020 at 1:57 pmTurmeric is one of my favorite ingredient 🙂 This curry looks heavenly David.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:50 amThanks, Priya – I so appreciate your kind words especially when I know you are a strict vegetarian!
John
December 12, 2020 at 2:10 amIt seems you’ve tried your hand at just about everything, David. I’m impressed! All of that rug terminology and identification would only make my head spin. Seriously!
Sadly, goat meat is a little hard to come by here in the mountains. Unless I jump a fence in one of the valleys and swipe a live one myself, or drive down to Sydney and get it. Either way, I enjoy Persian food when I very seldom cook it. I really want to try this!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:52 amWhile goat meat is rare there, you do have some of the best lamb on the planet! I hope you get a chance to make this, John!
The-FoodTrotter
December 12, 2020 at 8:47 amI love reading about your lovely culinary journey, thru Persian culture. Your dish looks delightful and I might do it quite soon. I’d dream to visit Iran once/// It’s not the best period overall, particularly considering how difficult it’s visit the country in general.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:58 amI would like to visit Iran, too. Maybe someday, Romain, we will be able to go there – so much history, beauty, and flavor!
Cathy
December 13, 2020 at 2:32 pmI adore Persian rugs, food and culture. My mom and I booked a trip to Iran led by women for women. We are over the top excited. But the obstacles of visas, insurance and the world political situation stopped it from happening.
For now, I will enjoy this beautiful dish. And hope, someday, I will be able to travel to Iran.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 10:59 amOh, Cathy, I am so sorry to hear this got canceled – but am not surprised. I raise a glass of doogh in hopes that the time will coem soon when we can all travel safely – without pandemics and wars.
Karen (Back Road Journal)
December 13, 2020 at 3:17 pmMy but you certainly are a well rounded fellow with all the different jobs you’ve done over the years. I’m pretty sure that our little town doesn’t carry goat but the meatballs made with lamb would be delicious I’m sure in your recipe.
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 11:00 amWell, Karen, being a musician usually requires a lot of creativity when it comes to making a living. This is fantastic with lamb – you will love it!
2pots2cook
December 16, 2020 at 12:51 amDear friend, I love history and study Persian culture for years now. Everything started with silk roads and has led me to places and history facts above the wildest dreams. I would appreciate if you recommend me the books to read to learn more… Thank you and I honestly apologize for that late comment.
Sincerely,
Davorka
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 11:01 amDavorka – I will put together some books for you, though I am not sure what will be available. Some of my favorites are really old and out of print, and are so beautifully written!
2pots2cook
December 22, 2020 at 9:26 amThank you so much. I’ll do my best to get the beauties. Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones. D.
William Manfull
December 16, 2020 at 8:37 amThis was such a great dish! We used lamb instead of goat and it was perfect. The meal was paired with the same St Antonin Côtes du Rhône and it was a beautiful match!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 11:02 amI am so glad you and Susan enjoyed this as much as we did! Such unique and wonderful flavors! Oh, and the wine – just perfect!
Jeff the Chef
December 17, 2020 at 9:06 amGoat meatballs! I’ve never had them! But hey, I didn’t realize that you’re a musician! I’m a pianist! Too bad we don’t live closer together. I’m sure we could share some great food and great music!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 21, 2020 at 11:04 amI had no idea you were a musician, Jeff! (I also have no idea why your comment was sent to spam – what?) Did you study music in college? As I donated my bass to my alma mater, I think we will just have to enjoy good food together and your piano playing!
Heidi Love
March 1, 2021 at 3:12 pmI was just searching for a week of dinner inspiration and oh my, Persian Goat meatballs and a Cote de Rhone just made the list. Now to search for Clos St. Antonin. Thank you, Thank you, David
Cocoa & Lavender
March 6, 2021 at 8:54 amI hope you and Dennis enjoy this dish, Heidi!