Apparently, when Alice B. Toklas went on a picnic, she did not fool around. I say “apparently” because I can find no evidence that today’s recipe was either taken on a picnic by Toklas or is actually her recipe.
I have an uncredited magazine clipping — most likely from the ’90s or early ’00s — called “Alice B. Toklas Roast Chicken.” It mentions her taking the chicken on a picnic. This particular recipe does not appear in The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, written by Toklas and first published by Harper & Brothers/Doubleday in 1954. I have scoured every chicken recipe in the book and, while some of the ingredients appear in the book’s chicken recipes, they don’t appear together in one singular recipe.
Certainly her partner, Gertrude Stein, never mentioned it when Stein wrote The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas. (Seriously, who writes someone else’s autobiography?) Another author, Susie Rodriguez, has an essay titled “The Lost Generation: American Expatriates in Paris” (from the book Literary Trips: Following in the Footsteps of Fame, Great Escapes, 2000), that reads like a script from Woody Allen’s film Midnight in Paris. She writes of Stein and Toklas, and their salons in Paris that included Cole Porter, Pablo Picasso, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Djuna Barnes, Ernest Hemingway, and the inimitable Josephine Baker, to mention a few.
At the end of Rodriguez’s essay, she leaves her readers with a recipe in a box: “Roast Chicken à la Alice B. Toklas.” The introduction states, “You might find it difficult to whip up this concoction while you’re in Paris. (A C&L aside: why would this be difficult in Paris?) But, if you’re able to, pack it in a picnic hamper and head for the Bois de Boulogne.” Perhaps this essay is the origin of the storying making this dish a Toklas picnic favorite?
Toklas does have (whole) roasted chicken recipes in her book that are made with orange juice, and one that uses Madeira. Perhaps Rodriguez was channeling Toklas that day and asked herself, “WWAD?” (What Would Alice Do?) Of course! She would put her chicken and sauce in a bread bowl, wrap it in a tea towel and take it on a picnic… that’s what she would do! At any rate, that is what I did. Though, no surprise, I did not follow either recipe to the T.
Both Rodriguez’s recipe and the recipe I clipped call for the same ingredients: chicken, orange juice (and zest), Port (not Madeira, which Toklas used often in her recipes), soy sauce, and cream. The version I had clipped had equal amounts of the liquids; Rodriguez’s has much more of the orange juice and Port, and only a dash of soy. I went by my intuition and have created a third version of this possibly apocryphal recipe “by” Alice B. Toklas.
Honestly, lack of documentation aside, none of this really matters because the recipe is stellar, whether served in a bread bowl on a picnic blanket or on toasts at your dining room table. Per picnic protocol at no-glass-allowed parks, I paired this with a delightful rosé in a can by Château Léoube. To read more about this wine, visit the Provence WineZine.
~ David
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Chef Mimi
September 4, 2021 at 5:53 amWell this post brought back some old memories. Mostly of brownies… Is this where the Alice’s Restaurant song came from? This is quite the picnic food! Love those boules.
Sue Agnew
September 4, 2021 at 8:52 amFor the brownies it’s a pun … toke-less … and I hadn’t thought of the connection with Alice’s Restaurant until now!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 9:25 amActually, Sue, I had never thought if the pun. How funny. But the Alice B Toklas Brownies we know (or heard of) in our youth were inspired by Alice B Toklas’ recipe for Haschich Fudge, which does appear in the first edition of her cookbook. No chocolate, no brownie, but she did say, “This is the fruit of Paradise — of Baudelaire’s artificial Paradises: it might provide an entertaining refreshment for a Ladies’ Bridge Club or a chapter meeting of the DAR. In Morocco it is not to be good for warding off the common cold and damp winter weather and is, indeed more efficient if taken with large quantities of hot mint tea. Euphoria and brilliant storms of laughter; ecstatic reveries and extensions of one’s personality on several simultaneous plans are to be completely expected. Almost anything Saint Theresa did, you could do better if you can bear to be ravished by «Un évanouissement reveillé.»”
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 9:19 amSadly, no – Alice B Toklas had nothing to do with the restaurant (which I knew well growing up in that region). The restaurant was started by Sarah Lawrence alumna Alice May Brock. But it would make a good story. 🙂 Yes, quite the picnic food!
Frank Fariello
September 4, 2021 at 8:30 amSounds like a fun dish! I love culinary surprises like this one. (At first I thought that the chicken might be baked inside bread dough, but this sounds a lot easier… ) And I think you’re right, this must be a flight of Rodriguez’s imagination. No less tasty for that, however.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 9:32 amFrank – it is an incredibly simple and flavorful dish. Can’t believe I cut it out all those years ago only to make it in 2021.
Onita Connington
October 15, 2023 at 2:22 pmIt was actually from the long defunct Colonial Homes Magazine. An article on tailgate picnics. I cut it out too, lost it and have been looking for it for years. Lol. I hope it’s as good as I remembered it to be.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 15, 2023 at 3:29 pmIt is as good as you remember, Onita — maybe there’s still some good picnic weather where you are to make it. Glad I was able to get the recipe to you again.
John / Kitchen Riffs
September 4, 2021 at 8:37 amWhat a fun post! Love all the history in it. Great chicken recipe, too — and so appropriate for Labor Day weekend, the last “official” picnic weekend of the season. Although every weekend — heck, every day! — is a potential picnic day for us. Seize the day and all of that. Anyway, I had a copy of _The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook_, which I’ve given away to friends. There’s a great recipe for savory whipped cream in it (which I adapted for my blog). I should read her “autobiography” one of these days, although I’ve never found Gertrude Stein to be a pleasurable read. Hope you’re having a swell long weekend.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 9:34 amThe autobiography is almost impossible to read, John. I stick to Toklas’ writing! There are actually quite a few good recipes in the cookbook. I will have to look for the whipped cream recipe, as that is when I haven’t made. The chocolate mousse is ultimately simple and quite good. And there are a few others I’ve made… some have instructions that make me to scratch my head, though. This recipe is definitely worth a try!
Melissa
September 4, 2021 at 9:02 amThis looks great, David, and what a fun story to go with it. We’ll be eating it in the dining room, not in the park; it’s mostly been too cold here for picnics–and then there’s the wildfire smoke…
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 9:34 amI think we will keep this table top food, as well, Missy. Definitely messy! (Regardless of coolness in the park…)
Gerlinde
September 4, 2021 at 9:12 amWhat an interesting story , served with delicious food. Lately , I have been craving chicken . Isn’t it fun to look at old books and stories and give be them new life by putting them on a blog.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 9:35 amYou are so right, Gerlinde — it’s really nice to go back and find some more recipes that are worth bringing back. Fashion in food can be our worst enemy!
Susan Oleksiw
September 4, 2021 at 10:42 amI love all the history linked to the story. The recipe sounds delicious.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 4:28 pmHave you ever read the book, Susan? It’s fascinating the people they knew, and the stories that Alice told.
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
September 4, 2021 at 1:25 pmYes, indeed, this would make for one fancy picnic! I’m game!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 4:29 pmWho wouldn’t be? I’m sure you’re not ready to be hiking, so maybe tableservice would be better, Inger?
Inger @ Art of Natural Liivng
October 19, 2021 at 8:16 pmUp to miles at this point David! Progress!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 19, 2021 at 10:35 pmSo good to hear!
sippitysup
September 4, 2021 at 4:00 pmThough she grew up in a home where servants did all the cooking she sure seemed to be fascinated with cooking. I honestly don’t know that much about her so this was a fun read. Oh and a very fun picnic. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 4:29 pmIf you have read the book, you know she wasn’t shy about getting down and dirty. She did amazing things during the war, so the kitchen seems pretty tame when you think of it… Thanks for your comment, Greg. This recipe is definitely worth trying.
Eha
September 4, 2021 at 4:26 pmFor me this was an informative read rather than a ‘fun’ one – had not thought of Gertrude Stein for ages and I daresay but few this side of the Pond have ever sighted the Alice B Toklas tome. Just know her name 🙂 ! Have to try your recipe whether appetizingly served within a bun or not – am trying to imagine port and soy and orange together but my palate is not being cooperative 🙁 ! Most interesting !!! Meanwhile do hope you are having a very pleasant Long Weekend whilst we are eagerly enjoying our first days of spring . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2021 at 4:30 pmSometimes you just have to trust the universe! Putting together port, orange juice, and soy sauce does seem odd, and even more so when adding cream… But believe me, it works! Happy first of spring, Eha!
Ron
September 5, 2021 at 4:40 amDavid, this is indeed my kind of post. I love the story, as well as the memories of the ABT fudge recipe. Some years back, no many years back, I did experience Alice B’s fudge, except pot-infused butter was used instead of hashish. It must have worked as I don’t even remember who made it.
But, I’ve never run across her chicken recipe. I love the idea of the port, orange , zest, soy, and cream fusion. A recipe I shall enjoy recreating. We shall enjoy it in our sunroom, as our fall winds blow, served picnic-style. Enjoy your holiday weekend…
Cocoa & Lavender
September 5, 2021 at 7:29 amI really enjoyed doing the research on this, Ron — and it got me to get the book out and reread it. They lived a fascinating life.
And, it seems, they ate well, too — as did most of their friends! I would love to have been a fly on the wall in their apartment.
I hope you enjoy the chicken — really perfect for your sunroom!
Fran @ G'day Souffle
September 5, 2021 at 7:48 amPot-infused butter? (from Ron’s comment above). Now that would be interesting to try! I can see that nice glaze on your chicken- certainly looks delicious. I wonder what would happen if you baked a whole chicken inside a large boule? I remember walking by G Stein’s old apartment one day on Rue de Fleurus in Paris and the foyer was all locked up. Then, I walked by another day and the foyer door was open because some workmen were there. So I snuck into the building and stood there for a few minutes, imagining all the famous people who had walked through that foyer- Picasso, Hemingway, etc!
Jeff the Chef @ Make It Like a Man!
September 6, 2021 at 8:44 amYes, my nephew recently got his “budtender’s license,” and he tells me that making a pot-infused butter is the first critical step in good cooking with pot.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 7, 2021 at 6:26 amHow fun that you got to see inside their apartment! I have to make sure I walk past next time I’m in Paris.
Jeff the Chef
September 6, 2021 at 8:45 amI love this picnic idea! So I’m curious to know, how long can the sauce sit in the bread bowl before the bread has soaked too much of it up? I’m wondering how far in advance I can plan between packing and picnicing.
Cocoa & Lavender
September 7, 2021 at 6:25 amThat’s a really good question, Jeff. By the time the sauce reduces, it is thick and isn’t that copious, so it doesn’t soak through the bread easily. I’ve had it in there as long as an hour and it has been fine.
Jeff the Chef
September 7, 2021 at 8:00 amPerfect. Thanks!
2pots2cook
September 8, 2021 at 12:32 amEvery dish served in the bread is so comforting and heart warming ! Thank you for the great story behind !
Cocoa & Lavender
September 12, 2021 at 9:55 amYou are most welcome, Davorka — it is a very comforting meal.
Raymund
September 8, 2021 at 2:50 amQuite an interesting combination of ingredients, its the first time I saw soy sauce and cream together. I know they will taste amazing but just odd, I havent even thought of that after so many years of cooking fusion dishes
Cocoa & Lavender
September 12, 2021 at 9:55 amYes, at first I question to the use of soy sauce in that period of time. However, looking through her book, soy sauce was mentioned several times so it doesn’t surprise me. It’s a great combination, and I think you’d like it, Raymund.
The-FoodTrotter
September 9, 2021 at 6:29 amWhat a charming unexpected recipe! I like the ingredients and the final result looks promising 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
September 12, 2021 at 9:56 amThe only thing I missed, Romain, was a garnish of parsley on top. It would’ve given it a little green!
Valentina
September 10, 2021 at 7:47 amSo interesting and informative. I love the book cover, too. Such a cool book to have in your collection. And the recipe — well, delicious! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
September 12, 2021 at 9:57 amThe book cover it, by now, it is absolutely torn to shreds! Probably because I actually use this cookbook on a regular basis. And it was old to begin with… 🤷🏼♂️ Valentina, if you can get your hands on a copy, it is very much worth reading. To hear the stories of their times with all those famous people is a fabulous peek into another time.
Valentina
September 26, 2021 at 8:50 pmI will try to find one! 🙂
John
September 12, 2021 at 4:04 pmAs Frank mentioned earlier, I also thought the chicken was going to be cooked in the bread. The sauce sure has a unique combination of ingredients which I really want to try. I love your hero photo, too!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 15, 2021 at 7:36 amIt is a really strange combination of ingredients, but it worked so beautifully! Friends of mine made it over the weekend and raved about it… And made it again a second time! I guess that’s a good sign!
Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodLe Pique-Nique - Provence WineZine
October 1, 2021 at 9:10 pm[…] This week, we are headed on un pique-nique of literary proportions. Literally, it’s literary. I made Alice B. Toklas’ Roast Chicken, placed it in a bread boule, and wrapped it in tea towels to take on the road. Is it her recipe? Did she take it on a picnic? Who knows. What I do know is that it is good and you should make it whether for your picnic or dining room table. You can find the recipe on Cocoa & Lavender. […]
Keira Ball
October 4, 2021 at 6:23 amI like the combination. Will surely try it.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 4, 2021 at 6:28 amThanks, Keira — I hope you enjoy it!
Susan Manfull
October 11, 2021 at 9:17 amAs you know, we made this dish with great success! We didn’t go on a picnic so we served it with rice — and it was excellent! Nor did we have the cans of Léoube rosé (grrr!) but we found a worthy substitute and thoroughly enjoyed the meal and ensuing conversation about its origin!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 11, 2021 at 11:28 amMaybe we need to make this again when the weather gets cooler! I like your idea of serving it with rice, Susan!