Note: At the end of this interview, I share four appetizer recipes using artisanal toast or bread.
Tucson, Arizona, is the first city in the United States to be named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. Why Tucson? Because we have a continuous culinary history that goes back 4,000 years. Our heritage is one that is a blend of Native American and Mexican traditional cuisines. We have a lot to be proud of on many fronts, and I look forward to sharing Tucson’s best with you from time to time. Today, I introduce you to our Bread Winner.
Don Guerra, the founder and owner of Barrio Bread, has just received the internationally acclaimed James Beard Foundation Outstanding Baker Award of 2022. When I met with him last month, I asked him about the award, he shared, “I’m excited, it’s pretty neat. And it’s kind of a shock — it hasn’t totally settled in yet.” Heartfelt and much deserved congratulations to Don.
Don’s career didn’t begin here in Tucson. His passion for bread goes back to his early 20s when he worked at Sundance Bakery in Flagstaff, Arizona. He describes how it was a small operation with convection ovens that produced standard fare: whole wheat yeasted bread, bagels, hoagie rolls, and the like. “That’s where I fell in love with what I do. It was pretty much the first day in the job.” He was told he wouldn’t last long – but he loved it, and told himself, “I [am] going to outlast them, I’m going to make a life out this.” That’s when the dream started.
“I’ve always been a bread baker. The funny thing is I haven’t really dabbled in anything else. I made pies for one afternoon and I think the bakery owner was ready to fire me. ‘You’re terrible at this.’ Yes, I know.” This is a great reminder to stick to your passions. And Don’s passion is bread. “Watching food come alive and being transformed… just grain and water. It was mind blowing for me. It’s a beautiful food. It’s alchemy.”
In addition to Sundance Bakery, Don has worked in in some high profile places, including The Boulders Resort in Cave Creek, Arizona, as well as getting in on the ground floor of Arizona Bread Company, where he made European-style breads. He returned to Flagstaff and started his own bakery, The Village Baker, and soon opened another branch in — and then moved to — Ashton, Oregon. Feeling stretched and a bit overwhelmed after a while, Don sold the The Village Baker and he moved to Tucson.
In Tucson, Don enrolled in the University of Arizona College of Education. He wanted to teach yet not be in a classroom. He got his degree in physical education with a minor in exercise physiology, and upon graduation had a job waiting for him at the Miles Exploratory Learning Center, where he taught for seven years.
Toward the end of those seven years, Don cleaned out his garage from top to bottom, ordered a deck oven from Italy, and resumed baking while teaching. He would feed his starters before going to school on Fridays, come home after work, start mixing doughs, and stay up until 2:00 pm the next day. He sold his bread at school and at a few other neighborhood schools, then later sold bread at the Saturday farmers’ market.
The popularity of Don’s breads started what the local newspaper referred to as a cult following. “‘Why would someone bake bread out of their garage and drive around in their car, and sell it?’ And do you know what’s happening around the world now? This! Garage bakeries all over the world.” Tucson now boasts several garage baking businesses, thanks to Don’s pioneering example. He “developed a crazy model for doing things differently. It’s kind of my style. I don’t really like to have a traditional path. It’s not because I don’t believe in traditional models, I just have to base it on my life, and what’s happening at that time. It’s part of my agility as an entrepreneur.”
While running his business from his garage, Don was approached by Gary Paul Nabhan, an ethnobotanist at the University of Arizona, who had been growing some heritage wheat and suggested Don try it in his breads. Gary brought him wheat berries, whole kernels of wheat — “What the heck do I do with wheat berries?” He got a tabletop mill, made flour, and turned it into bread. “I pulled it out of the oven and it was like, ‘Wow!’. I saw my life 10 years ahead. I dropped to my knees and I’m like, ‘Yes – this is it!’ I knew right then that this is going to be the future. I’m going to be baking bread with heritage wheats, and my entire community is going to know about it. It’s going to take me places.”
Don baked for seven years out of his garage and then, in late 2015, he opened Barrio Bread (18 S. Eastbourne Ave, Tucson, Arizona, 85716, https://www.barriobread.com, (520) 327-1292). He gets to the bakery at 4:00am each day (Tuesday through Saturday) and five hours later, lines of bread lovers greet him as the doors open and the still-hot-from-the-oven breads begin to sell. It goes fast. Really fast. More than once I got there too late and left with only the memory of the delicious scent to take home.
Don’s love of food can be traced back to his paternal grandmother, though both grandmothers were the family cooks. “My nana was always cooking beautiful food. I loved her food, you know, my grandmother loved feeding people. We always had big gatherings. And, as far as feeding people, that feeling of community celebration part of me comes from them.” Asked what are his favorite foods? “Beans. Straight up. Pinto beans on the stove. Walking in the door, if there are beans on the stove, it’s home. … Bread of course. Tortillas. Posole is my favorite soup.”
What about using his bread? “I love salad with croutons; I make the croutons in a skillet. Love panzanella. Toast. Avocado toast. Or a little bit of peanut butter. And I eat the whole wheat walnut plain.” Following his lead, today’s recipes all center on toast: Pan con Tomate, a Spanish tapa; Grilled Bread with Chèvre and Peach Jam; and Avocado Toast — all made from Don’s Barrio Bread, of course!
If you live in Tucson, or are visiting, find your way to Barrio Bread for a loaf of heavenly bread. And, once again, congratulations and a toast to Don Guerra, our Bread Winner!
~ David
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Carolyne
August 13, 2022 at 5:23 amI love the Barrio Bread story and your recipes always!
xo
C
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:17 pmThanks, Carolyne! The recipes’ simplicity makes them perfect for apéro en Provence!
Chef Mimi
August 13, 2022 at 5:41 amOhhhhh that baguette looks like perfection. They all do, actually. And with peach jam? Outstanding. Lucky you. I loved Mark Miller’s old cookbook/storybook called Red Sage. So many stories about how the old west merged with Mexican influences and indigenous foods. So I’m not surprised about Tucson.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:18 pmThank you, Mimi — we did a lot of research about Tucson when we moved here 17 years ago… but we really had no idea it was going to be a food haven!
Mark Nelson
August 13, 2022 at 6:56 amDavid, these are wonderful recipes and a great write up. I may try all of these recipes for an event coming up. How much time can there be between making and serving these? (Thought of you driving by Kittery on our way to Brooksville last week!)
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:23 pmThanks so much, Mark! If your bread is grilled well, the avocado toast and chèvre with peach jam can be fine made ahead. The butter/anchovy can be on either toast or bread and can be done in advance. (In all three cases, too far in advance could make them a bit soggy… maybe an hour tops?) The tomatoes should be “grated” onto the toast just before serving — or, as we do, let our guests grate on the tomatoes themselves. Let me know how they come out.
Mark
August 14, 2022 at 12:39 pmAnchovy & buttered bread, and Avocado toast were big hits last night. They were preceded by Tuscan Figs. The jam and basil was made with Orange marmalade made with 10 year single malt (Blake Hill: The Cheese Pairing Collection developed with Jasper Hill Farm) using JHF’s Von Trapp Oma. It was great. It was great! Some sushi and potstickers completed a lovely coolish outdoor wine night with friends. Tomato toast tonight! Thanks
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 4:35 pmIsn’t the butter with anchovies a wonderful surprise? Taught to us by a friend in Venice. Glad you are having fun with the recipes —my Hanks for letting me know!
Diana Gordon
August 13, 2022 at 7:39 amHello, gorgeous! I, too, grow weak-kneed at the aroma and first bite of bread looking like this. I have one of those inexpensive metal Italian stove top grill pans sold in hardware stores that gives me the perfect amount of toasting marks and crunchiness. And great interview – Jeff forwarded to Tucson friends ICTMI.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:25 pmThere is nothing like fresh bread, hot from the over, with either European butter or the best olive oil. I know you and Jeff will love these! And that stovetop grill pan is the best for these!
John / Kitchen Riffs
August 13, 2022 at 8:30 amWhat an outstanding post! Really nice interview. I love good bread — I could (and have!_ make a meal out of it. And butter. Or jam. Or olive oil. But I’d much rather make a meal out of one of the fun recipes you’ve given us. Goat cheese, peach jam, and basil? Yes, please. And our basil is going nuts at the moment and is begging to be used. Super read — thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:26 pmThanks so much, John — I would love to know what cocktail you might pair with the butter/anchovy recipe. Good bread is good eating!
Jill
August 13, 2022 at 9:10 amWhat a wonderful post. I will have to try both the bread and these recipes. New next door neighbors are from Paris and the husband Dave I hear is an excellent chef. Just waiting for the remodel to be finished to have them over.
Thanks again for this great post.
Jill
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:28 pmYou haven’t been to Barrio Bread yet? You definitely need to get down the hill for his bread. I love that you have neighbors from Paris!
Ron
August 13, 2022 at 9:41 amDavid what a good post, I love the story and know I would love the bread. As summer ends for us (hopefully after this current hot spell) my mind is already thinking of bread-making. So you’ve inspired me even more. You and Don Guerra have also inspired me to seek out some heritage wheat berries and make my own flour.
As for your outstanding use of his bread, I’d love any of them. But, the Chèvre, Peach Jam, and Basil Toasts intrigue me. A must-try!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 13, 2022 at 2:32 pmThanks, Ron. I completely forgot to mention in this article that, 5 years ago, I ground myself own flour to make this beautiful loaf of bread: http://cocoaandlavender.com/2017/06/its-grind.html – so, you definitely need to try grinding your own. Do you and Eva have a mill? I hope you like all these recipes — I really can’t decide which is my favorite!
Ron
August 13, 2022 at 10:35 pmDavid, we do have a mill attachment for our Ankarsrum mixing machine, but it has been little used. I’ve been sourcing whole wheat this morning and found some Anniina wheatberry. It is Finnish wheat that is high in protein, and thus good for baking. Thanks for the link, I’ll give it a good read over my mid-morning fika…
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 6:22 amI’m so glad you have a mill attachment AND that you were able to locate some wheat berries! Can’t wait to hear about the results!
Eha
August 13, 2022 at 4:18 pmWhat an unexpected but wonderful story to begin my Sunday ! Yes my reading on Tucson had told me about it being a UNESCO City of Gastronomy so you story has been an interesting tale of expansion ! Thank you – shall go learn more being just a tad envious I lack such a place in my vicinity. As fate would have it I enjoyed an egg and anchovy open sandwich for breakfast just an hour ago tho’ the fishies were pickled Scandinavian style . . . and avocado on bread at the moment is a daily pleasure here. But peach jam is a newbie for sandwiches for me . . . I doubt there ever having been any in the house . . . don’t think many here would have tasted . . .
Eha
August 13, 2022 at 4:29 pm*smile* Just ‘been’ to the bakery – my day would be Friday for all the rye and spelt !
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 6:16 amFridays are amazing at the bakery —- and it’s worth standing in line for all the options!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 6:16 amScrambled egg and anchovy on toast (Scottish Eggs) is a family favorite. The peach jam with chèvre and basil is quite special!
Doreen
August 13, 2022 at 6:46 pmDavid, this is a wonderful and informative post. I loved reading about Don’s baking journey and Tucson’s food history. The peach jam and basil toasts would make a delicious breakfast with a hot cup of coffee, IMO 😊
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 6:17 amI think the chèvre, peach, and basil is perfect any times of day. I loved it with the rosé! So glad you enjoyed the post! 💖
Cita
August 13, 2022 at 7:37 pmWhat a delicious post, David! You and Don are both Tucson treasures 🙂 Lovely to read this interview–and add to Don’s accolades! He has created a remarkable spotlight and legacy for Tucson. Two thoughts to add: 1. if you’re out of luck waiting in line, and leave empty handed at Barrio Bread itself, some Barrio bread is available for sale at La Monica (downtown), and is also used for sandwiches at Barrio Charro (Prince and Campbell). Truly an edible art form:-)
and..2., as one who was introduced to pa amb tomaquet at the age of five, in a Catalan fishing village, let me suggest rubbing a raw garlic clove FIRST on the toasted bread, before adding the olive oil, smushing the tomato and adding a touch of salt. So good with some Jamon Serrano, Spanish chorizo or prosciutto. mmmmmmmm!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 6:21 amYou are so sweet, Cita! Yes — I have bought the bread at The Monica, too — but my favorite is still first thing when it’s warm from the oven! The garlic rub is, indeed, traditional but, as I’m allergic, I do it without. What’s nice about the non-garlic version is getting to taste the purity of a perfectly ripe tomato. And you are right — a slice or two of Jamón Serrano is a perfect addition!
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
August 14, 2022 at 9:39 amWow, I had no idea that Tucson had been named a City of Gastronomy. That’s really impressive! Makes me want to take a trip … And kudos to Don. You’re so lucky to have such wonderful bread where you live. There are some decent bakeries around here, but if you want the good stuff you need to make itself yourself.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 4:33 pmI hope you both will make a trip in retirement! We really are so fortunate to have Don and Barrio Bread — he is so deserving of the award!
Ronit
August 14, 2022 at 9:44 amHow lucky you are, to have such an amazing bakery nearby.
The tapas are fabulous and brought a very tasty trip to Spain to mind! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 4:34 pmThanks, Ronit! I do have tapas on the brain these days (as you will see in several upcoming posts) because we are preparing for a trip to Spain!
Fran @ G'day Souffle
August 14, 2022 at 3:20 pmWell-written interview- really brings to life this baker’s talents! I sometimes wonder about placing a commercial sized convection oven in my garage to bake macarons, etc but thought there might be some issues with the health department about baking goods for sale in my garage (next to my car). Hmm, but maybe my condo HOA might not like it!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2022 at 4:36 pmThanks so much. Fran! I do think Don needed to get rid of the car before the health department gave an okay to sell bread from his garage!
Sherry M
August 14, 2022 at 8:13 pmit all looks so tasty david. but i’m a bit far away to go to barrio bread:-) Then again i rarely eat bread but hubby loves it!!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 15, 2022 at 8:13 amThanks, Sherry!
2pots2cook
August 17, 2022 at 6:14 amHeaven! Beautiful post indeed David! Everything so tasty and it’s amazing to have such a bakery in your town! Don’s happy face says it all! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
August 18, 2022 at 5:54 amWe are very fortunate, indeed, Davorka!
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
August 17, 2022 at 5:32 pmWho doesn’t like some good crusty rustic bread, right? All varieties from the bakery look phenomenal, especially the baguette (That crust!) And I’m into all possible toasts and bruschettas. All sound great, but my favourite would be with peach jam.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 18, 2022 at 5:54 amI know – the breads are addictive, Ben! There are so many different breads at his store – I want them all!
Jean | DelightfulRepast.com
August 18, 2022 at 6:32 amDavid, thank you for introducing us to Don Guerra. Fascinating story! If I ever make it to Tucson, I will definitely visit Barrio Bread. And make him a pie! 😁 Much as I love making bread, if I lived near Barrio Bread I’d probably get very lazy and just buy Don’s most of the time.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 20, 2022 at 12:23 pmAs you know, I love baking bread, too — from simple no-knead to “let’s get serious” brioche and French bread. But having Don here makes life so much easier and better!
sippitysup
August 19, 2022 at 3:04 pmMarvelous interview. Anchovies on toast with great butter is true living for me. It’s so Roman, but now thanks to you (and Don) it so Tucsonan (Tusconan? Is that right?) GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
August 20, 2022 at 12:22 pmFunny — I think of anchovies on bread with butter as Venetian because that is where I learned it. I need to do some research. Butter, to me suggests northern Italy, but I just don’t know. Thanks for giving me a bit of e search to do, Greg!
Raymund
August 23, 2022 at 3:30 pmNothing goes well with artisinal bread but only with a nice and simple EVOO, it brings out the greatness of that baked goodie.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 27, 2022 at 8:53 amTrue. Absolutely true. Except think good butter does the same!
Valentina
August 27, 2022 at 8:14 amClearly a visit to Tuscon is in order! The breads looks absolutely incredible, and each of your variations in calling to me — I can’t decide which one I want because they’re equally enticing. I’d “order” one of each. What an excellent write up. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
August 27, 2022 at 8:25 amAw, thank you so much! It would be great to have you visit, Valentina – I would serve you all four plus some other favorites! 🙂
John
September 3, 2022 at 4:00 pmOne day I’ll make it to Tucson. One day! It seems such a melting pot of cultures and influences, and so much more. This bakery is one I’d definitely be lining up for. That bread!
Cocoa & Lavender
September 4, 2022 at 7:35 amWe can’t wait for your visit — I know we’d have fun exploring! And it would be fun to introduce you to Don and his bread!