While I work on some more Spanish recipes to post, I thought we could go back to my favorite: Italy. Back in 1974, Mark spent his spring semester of college studying art history in Rome. To say that such an experience was pivotal for him — especially at that age and era — is an understatement. I still enjoy hearing the stories of things that happened to him and his peers back then. My favorite is probably the tale of some students who got arrested for streaking (lo streak) at the Vatican. Ever-staid Mark was, of course, safely ensconced in bed asleep when it happened.
At the time of his trip, there was a cholera outbreak, and the kidnapping of J. Paul Getty’s grandson had just happened. He went abroad with a warning from his parents: don’t drink the water and don’t eat seafood (cholera), and avoid Piazza Farnese (site of the Getty kidnapping). So where did Mark find himself on that first night for dinner? Piazza Farnese. And what did he have? Pasta with clams. And with what did he brush his teeth that night? Tap water. But he is still here to tell the story, so…
He also reminisces about his adventures in dining. Among the national scandals of the moment, there was a countrywide shortage of dried pasta forms. The nuns in the convent where he stayed were embarrassed to serve only twenty — twenty! —pasta forms before they were forced to repeat. Can you imagine? When dining out, Mark made a point to try something he didn’t recognize at each meal — something that wasn’t in his pocket dictionary. Brave and brilliant, really — and quite fun!
One of his fondest culinary memories is of Pizza Bianca Romana. On our more recent visits to Rome, we never saw this particular snack food. It has been overwhelmed by the relatively recent introduction of standard pizza with all variety of toppings, from Naples to America, and beyond. When we returned from our most recent trip, Mark did some research and found several recipes online for that which he remembered. When we think “pizza” we tend to think of toppings. But this is not that kind of pizza; it has no topping except salt, and sometimes rosemary. Pizza Bianca Romana is similar to a focaccia, yet different. It is a thin crunchy bread, not a cracker but not soft either. It is traditional to eat it as is, right out of the oven and cut into rectangles. For a heartier snack, it is sometimes cut in half horizontally with thin slices of mortadella placed inside, which is oh, so good! (Some photos of our trip to Rome following the recipe.)
~ David
The incredible ceiling of the Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di Loyola.
Frescoes from the Villa Farnesina at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (National Roman Museum).
The stunning frescoes (1st and 2nd Century) of the triclinium in the Villa Livia. Livia was the wife of Emperor Augustus at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (National Roman Museum).
La Galleria at the Palazzo Colonna – the setting for the final scene of Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.
A detail from the room of maquetes at La Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna.
The mosaic apse in Santa Maria in Trastevere.
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Lisa Salati
November 19, 2022 at 4:34 amWhen do you add the rosemary?
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 6:47 amThanks for noticing that, Lisa! I have amended the recipe now. Have a great day!
2pots2cook
November 19, 2022 at 6:58 amThank you for another ” storia Mediterranea¨. Have you ever thought about writing a printed recipe book that would include all of your stories?
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 10:52 amThanks, Davorka – what a compliment! I would love to write a book but fear no one would want to publish it! 🙂
Jeff t
November 19, 2022 at 7:48 amWhat a great read, fantastic pictures, and a recipe that sounds irresistable! I’m such an avid bread baker – I’ll be exicited to give this one a try!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 10:53 amI thin you will like this, Jeff – and I am glad you enjoyed the photos and story!
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
November 19, 2022 at 8:58 amStreaking at the Vatican? Oh my… ! My mom was a little like Mark’s I think. When I used to travel as a young adult (even to places in Europe) she used to tell me to pack my own toilet paper, just in case…
Anyway, this pizza bianca looks fabulous! Brings back memories. There was (is?) a fabulous place on Campo de’ fiori (next to pizza Farnese, as you probably know) where you can get all kinds of pizza bianca. Used to love that place… we lived only a couple of blocks away.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 10:56 amI know – who the heck would thin kof streaking there? Crazy! You know, the toilet paper is a Mark thing too – as soon as we arrive in a city – often on the way to our apartment – he insists we stop for TP.
That bakery is still there, Frank – and we go every time we are in Roma – for that and the rosette. Though we didn’t see the pizza bianca this time. Too late, we discovered they have a side window now for selling that,
Jill Jill
November 19, 2022 at 9:51 amAs I have Pies and Your Mother’s Family Recipes I am intrigued by a travel/recipe book. The names maybe wrong but they are still packed so can’t check.
Have a lovely weekend xoxo
Cocoa & Lavender
November 19, 2022 at 10:57 amI love that you think of it as a pie cookbooks – it was just desserts and called Pretty Sweet. I had fun with that one!
Mad Dog
November 19, 2022 at 12:01 pmThat Pizza Bianca Romana looks delicious – I will have to make it!
Great pictures yet again.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 20, 2022 at 2:18 pmThanks, Mad Dog — I really enjoy making it as long as I remember to start it three days in advance!
Pauline McNee
November 19, 2022 at 2:14 pmThis pizza looks incredible and straight out of the oven with a glass of red it would be memorable. I love foccaccia and pizza so this is perfect. I remember being very surprised at all of the trays of pizza for sale in Rome, not what I expected at all, but fast food pizza I suppose. Great photos here too David, thanks, really enjoyed your post.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 20, 2022 at 2:21 pmAs a matter of fact, Pauline, I do believe we had thus with a glass of red! The trays of pizza are actually very good — well, depending on which shop you go to. We were pleasantly surprised! Glad you enjoyed the photos!
Eha Carr
November 19, 2022 at 3:20 pmAh ! What glorious, glorious memories !!! I too was there that year but only for a week . . . and I have seen the film about Mrs Stone !! The ‘Hassler’ was our pub !The photos are fabulous . . . my daughters. when very small, had no hesitation in lying flat on the floor of the Sistine Chapel stating it was the only logical way to see !!!! Yes to the white pizza . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
November 20, 2022 at 2:23 pmI’m so glad they have put in the mirrors for many places, Eha. The Sistine Chapel doesn’t have them and I fear if your daughters would be trampled these days, considering the crowds. I’m glad you got the movie reference — so many are too young to remember.
sherry
November 20, 2022 at 12:02 amthe pizza/bread looks amazing. i like how plain it is; i mean that in a good way. and what about those photos? we went thru the vatican at a clip, as busloads of tourists had been allowed in before us. we had to wait for 2 hours while they went in first then we were rushed thru the sistine chapel at a rapid rate. phew, i wish i could remember what it looked like 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
November 20, 2022 at 2:24 pmThe Vatican is quite the tourist industry, isn’t it Sherry? Sorry you were so rushed. The pizza is delicious, and I’m glad you enjoyed the post!
sherry
November 20, 2022 at 12:05 amoh and how lucky for Mark to have that experience!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 20, 2022 at 2:25 pmHe was very need. And I’m glad he didn’t streak!
Ronit
November 20, 2022 at 1:23 pmThis is such a lovely background story for the recipe.
This pizza looks great! Hope to try it soon. 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
November 20, 2022 at 2:26 pmThanks, Ronit! I’ve been concentrating so hard on Spain that I almost forgot about Rome!
Chef Mimi
November 20, 2022 at 3:21 pmOh how funny! I’d forgotten about streaking! It’s so good to know about this bread. Thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 22, 2022 at 2:35 amThanks, Mimi — it dies make me wonder who was the first person to streak!
Jean | Delightful Repast
November 23, 2022 at 5:05 pmDavid, what a delightful post! I’m a breadie, and the pizza bianca would be addictive, I’m sure. Your photos of the bread are outstanding—worthy of the best professional food stylists.
Cocoa & Lavender
November 26, 2022 at 10:48 amYou are so kind, Jean — I really appreciate your kind words!
Valentina
November 27, 2022 at 11:25 pmThe pizza bianca looks fantastic. I love rosemary focaccia so I know this would be a favorite. Mark’s stories are equally as fantastic! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:09 amMarkipedia has many stories… I’m sure more of them will come out as time goes on. I hope you do like this, Valentina… It’s really a very special version of focaccia.
Raymund
November 28, 2022 at 3:48 pmAnother set of breathtaking photos, love the wall paintings, so beautiful
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:14 amIt was fun sharing the wall paintings… There’s so much great street art in Rome (and other cities, I’m short). Creativity abounds!
Marian Jensen
November 28, 2022 at 6:29 pmI missed this post till just now! Great stories and beautiful photos of some of our favorite places in our favorite city. And your bread looks fantastic.
I’m sure you’re referring to Forno Campo de’ Fiori. I’m sorry you missed their pizza bianca this last trip. We love it and have big slices almost daily on our visits–many consider it to be the best in Rome. Next door (separated by a wee street) they have a small shop selling delicious sandwiches. Did you see it?
On your next Rome trip, make sure to visit the small Antico Forno Roscioli (not the Roscioli Salumeria–also amazing) on Via dei Chiavari, 34, very near the Campo. But maybe you’ve already been there? Their pizza bianca with that thin slice of mortadella you describe is one of our favorite bites in town.
Ohhhhhhh….my mouth is watering!
Cocoa & Lavender
November 29, 2022 at 7:15 amI thought of you when I wrote this post, Marian. I knew you would like it, and no… We did not get to either place. Next time! (And, of course, there will be a next time!)
John
December 7, 2022 at 10:20 pmSuch a brilliant story filled with insight and intrigue. You know, I remember seeing Pizza Bianca Romana on our last trip to Italy. I’m not quite sure where we were, but I remember seeing it at a market or bakery. Did I try it? Unfortunately not. Now I want to try it, stuffed with mortadella and cheese. Gorgeous photos, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 9, 2022 at 9:42 amWhat’s a good reason to go back to Rome, John… eh?
Inger
December 9, 2022 at 10:00 pmI spent a semester in college in Dublin. Such a great experience!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 10, 2022 at 6:45 amStudy abroad is such an incredible opportunity.