Palacio de los Marqueses de Viana (Palacio de Viana)
The structure was built in the 1300s and is set around and among a dozen patios. It is one of the most important and best-preserved houses in Córdoba. The family’s collections include paintings, sculpture, furnishings, pottery, tiles, leather works (Cordovan leather is well-known throughout the world), and a significant library — all collected over the almost-six centuries since it was built.
When I think of how much work our own two little patios require, I am stunned when I think of Palacio’s 12 patios. The significance of these patios in no way negates the value of Los Patios de Córdoba, about which I wrote previously. Here I share several different views of the palacio’s patios and their different styles.
The house has been open to the public since 1980; no advance reservations are needed. When visiting the Palacio de Viana, there are three tickets possible: just the gardens; the gardens plus palacio; and the gardens plus palacio plus the upstairs rooms. The latter is a guided tour, as these quarters are still used by the family. Naturally, we opted for the fullest experience. No photos were allowed for the upstairs portion, so what you see above shows the gardens and ground floor interiors.
Real Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
This Palace for the Christian Monarchs, in the Judería neighborhood of Córdoba, was built starting in 1328 on the site of several older structures. The “new” construction was ordered by King Alfonso XI of Castile, a century after his ancestors’ Castilian kingdom had seized the city from an earlier emirate. It was still a period of shifting alliances, warfare and conquest, so the palace is fortified and forbidding on the exterior. Over time, it accrued four distinct towers (Towers of Homage, the Lions, the Inquisition, and the Dove). These hide it’s much more interesting interior.
The interior has several areas of interest — Hall of mosaics, the Courtyard of the Women, Mudéjar Courtyard, Reception Hall, and the Royal Baths. As you can tell from my photos, my focus was on the mosaics, but I also have a few shots of the Courtyard of the Women, and (thanks to Markipedia) several of the Mudéjar Courtyard.
But, honestly, most people go to visit the immense gardens on the west side of the Alcázar. While there have been gardens there since the palace’s inception, the ones we visit today are from an extensive mid-20th century revivalist remodel. The pools and fountains are seriously beautiful and, at times, reminded me of a mini Versailles. The gardens are structured on three terraced levels, with contrasting shade and sun, pools, fountains, and hedges.
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Donn Poll and Eric Nelson
January 11, 2023 at 8:31 am…ah, ah, ah…. we were there yesterday and it was a day we will not forget. Thanks again for amazing images…
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:39 amI imagine you might go back to Córdoba at least one more time? I hope you’re having such a great time over there.
Fran @ G'day Souffle
January 11, 2023 at 1:59 pmOh, I would die for one of those copper pans in the kitchen!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:39 amI felt exactly the same way, Fran. They are so beautiful, and I love how they are stamped with the house name.
Eha
January 11, 2023 at 3:04 pmHave just ‘booked’ my Saturday afternoon with Mr Google . . . I do want to look and learn a great deal more about the wonders you discovered and enjoyed in Cordoba and its sister cities . . . thank you ! The Viana Palace especially fascinates . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:38 amThe Viana palace was truly amazing. And, before we went to Córdoba, it wasn’t even on our radar. We found it accidentally by paging through a book that was in our apartment. Enjoy your time with Mr. Google!
Sherry M
January 12, 2023 at 12:43 amit’s all so incredibly ancient and beautiful, isn’t it? thanks for sharing these wonderful photos.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:37 amIt is, indeed, a wonderful romp in the ancient world, Sherry.
Jean | DelightfulRepast.com
January 12, 2023 at 10:23 amDavid, with no travel on the calendar again this year, I especially appreciate going along on your travels on your beautiful blog! And vicariously enjoying the wonderful meals as well!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:36 amThanks, Jean. It was great to be able to relive our travels and share them with you. Maybe this year you will be able to go someplace wonderful!
Mad Dog
January 12, 2023 at 1:14 pmMore fabulous pictures!
I love the poetry in the Ladies Patio – “Suffer to live”.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:36 amI know, Mad Dog, isn’t it fantastic? I probably should’ve put in the entire translation.
Raymund
January 12, 2023 at 3:46 pmFor something built in 1300s this looks stunning! Definitely stood the test of time
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:35 amI know — I can only imagine how the house I live in will look after 700 years!
Velva
January 12, 2023 at 5:20 pmThese are beautiful photos! I’ve been enjoying them on instagram too. I have a love affair with Spain and Córdoba is a fantastic place. A few years back, we visited Córdoba when the residents were competing against each other with their pots of flowers-It was stunning to visit the patios and courtyards.
Happy travels.
Velva
Cocoa & Lavender
January 13, 2023 at 7:29 amHow wonderful that you were there for the competition! It must have been amazing. I’m so glad you have been enjoying the posts, Velva — they have been a wonderful way for me to extend our time there, even if virtually. One more short post to go!
Christina Conte
January 14, 2023 at 9:36 amAbsolutely stunning, David. Just had a friend come back from a 3 week trip to Spain, and now seeing your photos, I am dying to go back! Thanks for sharing, I keep adding to my google map!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 16, 2023 at 1:38 pmIf your Google map is anything like mine, we will both need an additional lifetime to accomplish our travel goals.
Marcelle Bolton
January 14, 2023 at 10:02 amThose gardens looked magical, David! What an amazing place, thanks so much for all the beautiful pictures you are sharing with us!!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 16, 2023 at 1:36 pmI am glad you and others are enjoying the photos — one more short post to come!
Valentina
January 14, 2023 at 2:59 pmIncredible patios! Incredible everything. The copper pots are calling to me — to cook a beautiful Spanish meal in. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
January 16, 2023 at 1:33 pmIt is a good thing I have an induction stove, lest I might have risked theft and jail when I came across those pots!
Pauline McNee
January 26, 2023 at 4:21 amThe mosaics in that part of the world are incredibly beautiful, and intricate. The gardens are so well cared for as well. Your photos are beautiful David, they take a lot of management don’t they. Thanks for sharing your wonderful journey.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 31, 2023 at 9:32 amI was so pleased to see how well the gardens were cared for in Spain. They were really some of the nicest things we saw while we were there.