There is artistry everywhere in Córdoba — in the city’s architecture, in pots hanging on walls, in gardens, and in religious expression. There are also art museums, street art, and – you know me – culinary art.
Thank you all for joining me on this journey. What’s next? Morocco! Stay tuned…
Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba | Museo Julio Romero de Torres
These two museums are situated in a courtyard off the north end of Plaza de Potro, each a gem. Both are housed in the former Antiguo Hospital de la Caridad. The Museo de Bellas Artes is primarily focused on Cordobese works from the 14th century onward, but also boasts a very fine collection of modern art. The images above are all from this museum. The opening photo for this post is Bodegón de Naranjas (Still Life with Oranges) by Rafael Romero Barros. Above are Vista de Córdoba by François Antonie Bossuet, Torero Gitano (Gypsy Bullfighter) by Miguel del Moral Gómez, and Coquetry, from Las Tres Edades de la Mujer (Three Ages of Woman) by Mateo Inurria Lainosa. (Is that a cell phone in her hand??) The Museo Julio Romero de Torres did not allow photography, but on their website are many nice images that showcase the collection. Romero de Torres died in 1930 and his widow and her children created the museum in his memory.
Street Art
These several images speak for themselves. I did a direct translation of the music/lyrics of the children’s song we found on the wall in the Judería, but if anyone knows anything more about it, please let me know. (Possible translation: I don’t want the Count of Cabra, sad I am. I only want you.)
Restaurants and Local Specialties
I start this section with our favorite restaurant: Regadera (Spanish for watering can). We feel so fortunate this was recommended to us, and we went twice. Chef Adrián Caballero is a true artist. His combination of flavors and textures are inventive, and his attention to color and presentation are painterly and even sculptural, as you can see from the photos. We enjoyed every dish we tasted; the mazamorra (a chilled almond soup) with green apple sorbet, Jamón Ibérico, and caviar garnishes; tempura hake with red curry; and All About the Lemon — five-ways-in-one to enjoy the bright citrus (the lemon itself is a paper-thin confection of sugar filled with heavenly lemon foam). The staff is incredibly knowledgeable and kind, making each diner feel at home in the cheerful dining room. Reservations recommended. (Regadera: Calle Ronda de Isasa, 10)
A meal we enjoyed thoroughly, at the recommendation of our host, was one at Casa Pepe de la Judería. This restaurant has been in business since 1920. We started our meal with the mazamorra (garnished with membrillo and sliced almonds), and followed that with the Rabo de Toro — oxtail stew on mashed potatoes — every bit delicious and comforting. Don’t take the quality of the photos as a sign of the restaurant quality! It is definitely worth visiting. Reservations recommended. (Casa Pepe de la Judería: Calle Romero, 1)
Our very first taste of Córdoba was with our Airbnb host; he took us out for a slice of tortilla and a glass of the local wine. I’m my prior experience, a tortilla was the Spanish equivalent of an Italian frittata… a fairly thin egg dish. The one we had at Bar Santos was at least 5, if not 6, inches high, the pride of the small establishment. It was pretty amazing. And I ate it too quickly, forgetting to take a photo, but plenty are available online. (Taberna Bar Santos: Calle Magistral González Francés, 3)
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Diana Gordon
January 17, 2023 at 8:08 amThanks for this Córdoba adventure. Loved that city and you found things new to us. We, too, found a wondrous tortilla española at a bar in the Plaza del Sol (we declined it, the owner insisted) and we went back every morning thereafter for another slice. His wife made them but the last morning it was delayed until after our train left. Que lástima! We’ve made it as an hors d’oeuvres for parties but it’s never been quite as perfect. Maybe the experience infuses the taste.
Donn Poll
January 17, 2023 at 8:11 amO David and Mark you are san Perfecto. What a delightful visual visit to Cordoba… thank you again – keep posting.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:48 amYou are very kind, Donn. Glad you were getting a chance to enjoy all the beautiful sites in Spain, this winter!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:50 amBefore we went to Spain, I had a lot of good luck, making tortilla Española in our kitchen. I haven’t tried it since we returned, but you are convincing me that I should do that now. I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the adventure, Diana — we left all three cities so much and look forward to going back.
Mad Dog
January 17, 2023 at 12:40 pmMost of Spain is a huge artistic inspiration!
There’s an affable bodega owner in Sant Antoni (Barcelona) called Oscar. When I make rabo de toro, I usually take some round to him (with mashed potato) and he swaps it for several litres of vermut! Last time one of them was an expensive bottle from Pais Vasco. It’s a great intercambio.
IMHO, the differentiation between tortillas and the frittatas is frying and baking. I believe tortillas should be fried and flipped over – the taste and texture is different to a baked frittata, though some do bake their tortillas. I’m also a fan of tortillas with a runny centre.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:48 amI heartily agree with you on several points, Mad Dog. There is so much artistic inspiration in Spain… I wish I had visited sooner! Also, I really like frying my tortillas as you also prefer. There is something very different about it, and you have to make sure you use enough olive oil, so that the flavor of the oil permeates the entire thing. The huge tortilla we sampled in Córdoba was really tasty and not dry at all, but I think I prefer a thinner fried version.
I love your exchange with the bodega owner… I wish I had something to trade with you, because I would love to try your rabo de toro.
Eha
January 17, 2023 at 4:09 pmJust perfect . . . a place where even the street art is elegant ! And that gorgeous photo of Markipedia and you shows just how relaxed you were . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:44 amYes, a rare photo of me on the blog! Still, it was fun to show that we were having a good time in Córdoba!
Marian Jensen
January 17, 2023 at 4:53 pmMany thanks for taking me along on this trip. So much beauty, including all that amazing food. I’d love the Bodegón de Naranjas painting for my house!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:42 amIt was a pleasure to have you along for the ride, Marian! As for the painting, you’ll have to fight me for it! I already have a space for it picked out.
sherry
January 17, 2023 at 9:27 pmoh that lemon dish sounds marvellous! love the art too. yep never heard of a 6 inch tortilla – sounds intriguing and tasty.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:41 amI always think of you when I look at street art, Sherry. I knew you have a really discerning eye for artists.
sherry
January 17, 2023 at 9:28 pmjust checked the photo of that tortilla! holy moley. that is huge.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 18, 2023 at 9:41 amI know! I couldn’t believe it. And, I assumed it would be dry… But it was not!
Ron
January 19, 2023 at 1:14 amAnother great travel post. I love the street art and the food art looks too good to eat. My plating skills have long since left me, but I do enjoy eating occasionally with my eyes…
Cocoa & Lavender
January 19, 2023 at 8:42 amThanks, Ron — so glad you enjoyed the post. I actually enjoy the plating — IF I have a good idea. Sometimes, my plating is right up there with a frozen tv dinner!
Chef Mimi
January 19, 2023 at 7:36 amAhhhh such beautiful photos, of the food and otherwise. What a lovely trip you had. All trips should be that fulfilling. We have a trip coming up that involves Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, and South Korea. We usually go the other direction! It will be very interesting.
Cocoa & Lavender
January 19, 2023 at 8:41 amYour trip sounds amazing and very exciting, Mimi — how long will you be on the road? Travel is such an important part of learning — culture, people, food.
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
January 24, 2023 at 12:40 pmWow, wonderful food, beautiful gardens, fine art.. Cordoba sounds like my kind of place!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 31, 2023 at 9:34 amI know you would love Córdoba, Frank! It was the city that felt most like home to me.
2pots2cook
January 25, 2023 at 5:42 amAbsolutely perfect!
Cocoa & Lavender
January 31, 2023 at 9:33 amIt was!
Raymund
January 26, 2023 at 1:49 pmThanks for sharing these lovely photos, as usual another great travel post
Cocoa & Lavender
January 31, 2023 at 9:31 amThanks, Raymund. I can’t wait to go back!
Valentina
January 30, 2023 at 10:48 amSuch stunning art! All around. I love, love the top image of the oranges. It’s so realistic. So happy your travels in Spain were so perfect. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
January 31, 2023 at 9:18 amThat painting of the oranges is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. I felt as if I could just reach into the painting and pick one.
Inger
February 2, 2023 at 6:22 amI knew you’d be posting lots of great travel posts after retirement! One of my friends moved to Madiera and not mainland Portugal, but she said that she loved Spain too and it was definitely on her short list.
Cocoa & Lavender
February 6, 2023 at 8:15 amWe have friends who recently moved to Madrid and love it. Others to Portugal and feel the same way. We can always dream, right?