When I was asked by a Murdoch Books’ representative if I would like to review a new cookbook by Tessa Kiros. I was quite interested, as her cookbook Falling Cloudberries is a favorite, and I was excited to see what her new book, Now & Then, would bring. (Murdoch Books, October 2023, US $50.00).
For me to love a cookbook, it needs to meet three requirements: visual beauty, recipes that appeal, and (most important) recipes that work perfectly with no tinkering needed from the user. I don’t think I’m asking too much, do you? I’m delighted to report — spoiler alert — that this book exceeds all expectations.
As with Kiros’ other cookbooks, this one is a work of art — the photography is stunning, the food styling exquisite, and the design clean and easily used. One of my favorite aspects of the design are the collages of memories she puts together for each chapter heading page, and sprinkled throughout the book.
In this book, Kiros takes us on her life journey, through recipes and photographs. The book is in sections that showcase the places she lived and visited, the ancestry she prizes, and friendships she has forged. All the diversity holds together as one beautiful and enchanted life. The recipes she shares are the sum of her parts, the flavors she loves, her history, her stories, her friends, her inspirations. There is no recipe in this book I would not want to make.
Her recipes work. I chose four to test for the review and each was a gem. I started with one from her husband’s family: Nonno Mario’s Red Wine Risotto. Mario is her husband Giovanni’s father. Mario is a chef and sommelier in his own right. Like the risotti I have had in Italy, its flavors are subtle and perfectly balanced. It is simple, too, as it should be. Kiros states, “There are very few ingredients in here, so what you use has to be great.” That is the true Italian ethos: few ingredients of the best quality.
In the section of the book called “Nowadays,” Kiros shares some of her everyday favorites, one being a simple Mung Dal which she eats on its own, or includes in her Mung Bean Bowl, that augments the hearty dal with cardamom rice, spinach with tamarind, roasted potatoes, sweet potatoes and carrots, mango pickle, and coriander chutney. Honestly, the Mung Dal by itself is a wonderful light meal — we ate it for lunch several days.
For a small neighborhood gathering, I made Kiros’ Crawfish Pies — small, hors d’œuvres-sized hand pies filled with New Orleans goodness. Given that we live in the middle of a desert, I had to substitute langoustines, which worked perfectly. And they were a hit, too. Kiros’ reminiscence of her time in NOLA in 1991 is quite magical. Her crawfish pies are equally magical. The crust was flaky and tender, unlike any other I have ever had. She serves the leftover filling on rice; we opted to put it inside an egg-white omelet. Rice next time (as there will be a nex time).
Finally, an exquisite dessert — her Sugar Lemon Tart, a recipe she got from her friend Rebecca. When I first read through the recipe, I thought it might simply be lemon squares made in round cake pans. But it’s not. Somehow — is it the technique? — it is so much more. Granted, mine didn’t brown as much as hers, but who cares? I didn’t make it because it was brown; I made it because lemon is my favorite dessert flavor.
This book — Now & Then — is a perfect holiday book in many ways. There are lots of recipes you could make for your holiday table (so many great desserts!), and as a gift book this is far more than merely pretty. It could be given for any holiday, or birthday, or because-you-love-your-friend day.
Of these four, today I am sharing the recipe for the Sugar Lemon Tart; over time you will see the others here on the blog, too.
~ David
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chef mimi
October 14, 2023 at 6:18 amThe book really does look beautiful. I’ll have to check it out!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 12:52 pmI love her work, Mimi – and this book does not disappoint,
Mad Dog
October 14, 2023 at 6:35 amThat’s a beautiful looking tart and lemon is always appealing, so the book is definitely worth a read!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 12:53 pmI really enjoyed both reading and looking over the recipes, Mad Dog. I think you will, as well.
Jeff the Chef
October 14, 2023 at 8:23 amI always love a good cookbook recommendation, so thank you! I agree with your criteria. Obviously, you want recipes that seem like ones you’d like to try, it’s very important to see what the finished dish is supposed to look like, and you want a recipe that’s been thoroughly tested in a home kitchen. When a publisher is involved, you can at least hope that their involvement will come with a requirement for good editing and thorough testing. Even so, that’s not always the case, so when an endorsement like yours comes a long, that means a lot!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 12:56 pmI find nothing more disappointing, frustrating, and annoying than getting a cookbook with recipes that obviously have not been tested and, when the photos don’t match the recipe? That is infuriating. I once got a cookbook that had photos finished dishes showing major ingredients that weren’t in recipes. I wrote to the author and her response? Oh, we were busy and didn’t have time for new photos… I just used ones that were close.
angiesrecipes
October 14, 2023 at 10:36 amThe lemon tart does look very appealing and the filling is for sure different from the regular lemon bars. It might be a simple dessert, but for sure an impressive one. The review is well-written, David. I look forward to the remaining 3 recipes.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 12:57 pmThank you so much, Angie. I really appreciate your kind words. The lemon tarts ( Love that the recipe makes two!) are so good and perfect for a large dinner party.
Eha Carr
October 14, 2023 at 4:10 pmNow look what you have done, David – I thought this was going to be a 5-minute pleasant read until I said hello to my bookstore Booktopia! It absolutely raves about this ‘memoir, travel guide and food odyssey’ which ‘excites and nourishes’! A Finnish mother (my ears pricked natturally!) and a Greek-Cypriot father !!! And lighter food . . . an example of which you have made and photographed with your usual skill! Ooh, I am tempted in spite of a rather wicked price! THANK YOU for the introduction !!!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 12:58 pmEha – it is truly one of the most beautifully written works. It is like a novel that has you on the edge of your seat. I think you will enjoy it immensely.
Marcelle
October 15, 2023 at 7:26 amOh, I love the personal collages in the book. I’m sure it gives turning the pages a personal feel, it sounds like a great cookbook! This tart look delicious too, thanks for sharing about the recipe and for this wonderful review of the book, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 12:59 pmI really think the personal touches in this book — both the stories and the collages — make it so incredibly special, Marcelle.
sherry
October 15, 2023 at 5:20 pmoh yes her books are so beautiful. Mmm I think you’ve persuaded me to buy this one David! And I adore lemon desserts – the tangier the better!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 1:00 pmHers are the kind of books where you find such a beautiful variety of recipes, Sherry – that is what I like most.
Karen (Back Road Journal)
October 16, 2023 at 10:03 amI’m with you about lemon being my favorite dessert flavor and this tart sounds perfect.
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 1:01 pmLemon gives perfect closure to a meal, Karen — everyone assumes I would want chocolate but lemon is first and almond is second.
Pauline McNee
October 17, 2023 at 1:13 amYou have written an excellent review David and I agree with your selection criteria. Cookbooks are an investment of time and money, and this one sounds just wonderful. I’ll be on the lookout for it. The lemon tart also sounds exquisite and quite achievable. Well done on all levels. I wish I had a slice of the tart for dessert tonight……
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 1:02 pmI didn’t think of this from the “investment” side, Pauline — but you are absolutely right. They are getting more and more expensive, mostly because we all want those beautiful photos. But I don’t mind the expense if it is worth it!
Ronit
October 17, 2023 at 6:13 amI can never say no to any lemony dessert, so I would no doubt love this cake. 🙂
(By the way, 180C is 355F, not 350.)
Cocoa & Lavender
October 17, 2023 at 1:06 pmI think you would, too, Ronit! I copied her temperatures (and all her instructions) word for word from the book. Yes, 180°C is 355°F but 350°F worked very well. I don’t think the 5°F would have made any difference.
Ron
October 18, 2023 at 2:35 amIf she hasn’t already, I’m sure Tessa Kiros will thank you for this fantastic review and cook. I don’t do desserts, but I think even I can handle this one. I’ll look forward to the other three dishes…
Cocoa & Lavender
October 21, 2023 at 3:11 pmI hope Ms. Kiros liked the review — I really did love it.
I know you can make this, Ron — the easiest!
Raymund
October 18, 2023 at 2:42 pmWow, Tessa Kiros’ new cookbook, “Now & Then,” sounds like a real treasure trove! I’m a huge fan of cookbooks that not only offer delectable recipes but also tell a story. That Sugar Lemon Tart sounds like a delightful treat!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 21, 2023 at 3:10 pmIt is a wonderful bok, Raymund — do you know her other books? I know she is popular in Australia but not sure about New Zealand.
Davorka
October 25, 2023 at 5:58 amYou got me with the cover photo! Beautiful!
Cocoa & Lavender
October 29, 2023 at 6:18 amAll her books are so beautiful!
Valentina
October 26, 2023 at 2:41 pmGreat review, David. You’ve peaked my interest and I want the book. It looks beautiful. I love cookbooks that feel personal, with life experiences, family, etc. And the tart . . . I want that too. 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
October 29, 2023 at 6:17 amThe personal nature of this book really made it special.
Christina Conte
November 20, 2023 at 4:22 pmThe cookbook checks all the boxes for sure! What a delightful tart! I’d like to be that friend! haha!
Cocoa & Lavender
December 5, 2023 at 3:52 pmI have a love-hate relationship with all my neighbors! They love me because I give them goodies, and they hate me because I make them fat. 🤣
Recipe for Crawfish Pies – Cocoa & Lavender
January 27, 2024 at 3:07 am[…] while back, I reviewed Tessa Kiros’ most recent book, Now & Then (click HERE for the review and Sugar Lemon Tart recipe). I have really enjoyed cooking my way through the book; […]