Art: in Museums and on the Streets.
Philistines that we are, we went to very few museums during our two weeks in Paris. All right, we aren’t philistines. But we are true believers that art and culture are not represented solely by objects on the walls and in glass cases in museums. The people, café life, gardens, food, architecture, street art, concerts: many different aspects tell of a culture, and what denizens value.
Our first museum visit was to the Musée de Cluny, also know as the Musée National du Moyen Age. We were excited to return and see the newly restored tapestries: La Dame à la Licorne (The Lady and the Unicorn). There are six tapestries, five depicting the obvious five senses (sight, touch, hearing, smell, sight) and the sixth a conundrum: it depicts a lady with her unicorn contemplating a chest of jewels. Woven above is the motto, “À mon seul desir.” (My only desire) Is it wealth? Is it love? (I prefer the latter.) Its meaning will always remain a mystery. The museum suggests that interpretation could her renunciation of wealth, for freedom was her sole desire. I share all six plus some closeups of details.
There is much other amazing art in the Cluny museum; here are a few favorites including a crucifixion in which Christ seems to have breasts and a feminine body. Any thoughts? I paired it with a statue that seems to be saying, “I don’t know why.”
We found ourselves at the Musée de Nissim de Camondo … twice. The first time we went it was closed (always check open/close dates and times). Someone told us that if you didn’t want to cope with the throngs at Versailles, this museum is a crowd-free alternative. True! I think there were four other people in the entire place, the staff outnumbering the visitors by three to one. It is a truly elegant hôtel particulière, with four floors of decorated rooms. Definitely put this on your list for a visit.
Our next visit in a museum was the Musée de Montmartre. We had heard it was nothing special but that is exactly why we ignored reviews. What is “nothing special” to one person can be fascinating and a treasure trove to another. I did love their minuscule Renoir because: a) it’s a Renoir, and, b) it depicted food. They had several beautiful Raoul Dufy works including woodcuts of his, a medium I was unaware he worked in. Much of the collection is very specific to Montmartre, giving us a true sense of place for the artists’ environment and the community in which many artists, composers, and writers gathered. The museum was set in its own charming garden, and told its story through historic engravings and photographs, artifacts, and, of course, paintings. The back side of Montmartre boasts the only working vineyard in Paris; you can see it from the museum but visitation has to be arranged privately.
We wanted to see the exhibition Paris 1874: Inventing Impressionism at the Musée d’Orsay, so bought timed tickets. The year 1874 saw the first Impressionist exhibition in Paris in an unjuried show in a commercial gallery. The until-then-unnamed movement was in contrast to the traditional artistic values of the annual juried Salon show that was in progress at the exact same time. The exhibition included works displayed at both those 1874 shows. It was a fascinating and beautiful show, but a bit of a cattle call (see the final photo)… pushing through with the hoards, with little or no space to see anything in peace. There were, however some highlights we enjoyed seeing, including the Monet work from which the Impressionist movement got its name: Impression, Sunrise. The second and third to last photos are representative of the Salon show.
We then walked around a bit and saw a few other wonderful works without the crowds… the final one looks (to me) to be Jesus speaking to twelve naked men. Markipedia tells me it is The School of Plato be Jean Delville… but how would you caption it?
Outside museums, there is the street art — passionate, clever, thoughtful, and fun. I get such a kick from it and I hope you do, as well. The first little bit — respectaimer — a combination of respect and love is quite a beautiful concept.
Mark took some really fun Métro shots. Paris is getting ready for the Olympics and the photography for the billboards is genius.
And perhaps the most poignant and important “street art” we saw, were the posters surrounding Notre-Dame, showing the repair and restoration work on this world treasure.
Next up? Gardens and some miscellany.
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Barb
June 26, 2024 at 5:49 amFascinating!! As usual, you and Mark have captured everything beautifully and you created an incredible montage for this post. Thank you both!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 6:46 amThank you so much, Barb! I am really enjoying putting these posts together — they bring back some wonderful memories.
Ninette Reis
June 26, 2024 at 6:09 amThank you for sharing Paris with us. It makes me feel as if I am vicariously visiting myself plus you have given me ideas of places to see when I do go.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 6:48 amThank you so much, Ninette — your comment does my heart good, as it is my hope that these posts will take you on a virtual tour of this beautiful city.
angiesrecipes
June 26, 2024 at 6:13 amI love the street art more than the museums! You surely had a great time in Paris.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 6:48 amThe street art is so expressive of the thoughts and hopes of the artists — I love it, too.
Mimi Rippee
June 26, 2024 at 6:16 amWhat fun! I love your first paragraph. Great photos.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 6:49 amThanks, Mimi — it’s absolutely true. And probably true of any city.
Donn Poll
June 26, 2024 at 6:18 amThanks for the fabulous tour… nice to be in and out before the Olympics deluge.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 6:50 amOh boy, Donn — we are so glad to miss the Olympic mess! I think most Parisians will be getting out of town, too.
Mad Dog
June 26, 2024 at 6:33 amIt’s hard to believe that the Impressionists were completely rejected and ridiculed by the art establishment to begin with. Back in the 70s, there was a huge collection of Impressionist paintings at the Orangerie (Jardin des Tuileries). I believe they are the paintings now housed in the Musée d’Orsay. Monet’s garden at Giverny is quite stunning, if you ever get the chance to visit. I was a bit disappointed by Palace of Versailles – it was empty when I was there in the 90s, though the gardens were beautiful.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 6:55 amI know, Mad Dog. The Impressionists were pariahs in the art world at the time but so revered now. Yes, the Orangerie collection is now on the top floor of the Musée d’Orsay. We went up for a look and the crowd was so large we only were able to see a few paintings (Van Gogh’s bedroom in Arles, for example) before we felt we needed to get out. Next week you will see Giverny — a magical place. And, as for Versailles? Our traveling companions went and reported great disappointment at the crowds — they said it was impossible to see anything. I have been (many years ago — probably about the same time as you) and am glad I saw it, but needn’t go again.
Melissa
June 26, 2024 at 7:53 amFour museums sounds like a respectable number, despite your disclaimer at the top! I’m with you in preferring Paris’s smaller, more offbeat ones to the big dogs–who needs the crowds at the Louvre?–and the Cluny has always been a favorite for the tapestry collection. It was nice to “travel” there again through your pictures.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 26, 2024 at 8:19 amWe have been avoiding the blockbuster museums since the 90s. The crowds have only gotten worse, too. The Cluny is one of our favorites, too. Always so much to see there, and no crowds. Sadly, we didn’t understand how hard it was to reserve tickets for exhibitions, so we missed out on the Iris Van Herpen and places like Sainte-Chapelle. Glad you have been enjoying the tour, Missy!
Carolyn Niethammer
June 26, 2024 at 6:31 pmI love house museums. If we ever return to Paris, I’ll be sure to go to the one you mention. We did most of our European travel in the mid to late-eighties and we so lucky that we didn’t encounter the overwhelming crowds swarming Paris and Rome today. I’ve heard that one trick these days is to book tickets on opening while others are lingering over cafe and croissants.
sherry
June 27, 2024 at 1:33 amI love museums and galleries and street art! Interesting that you mention Iris van Herpen. Her exhibition is starting here tomorrow in Brisbane! Am looking forward to seeing it.
cheers
sherry
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
June 28, 2024 at 3:16 pmI’m embarrassed to admit that during our nearly-three-week trip we didn’t visit many museums. And we were aiming the unusual kinds, e.g., old windmill, former castles, etc – nothing really with a focus on art 🙂
Paris surely can offer some great options for art lovers, and its street art is quite beautiful, too!
Inger
June 28, 2024 at 5:56 pmSo beautiful–right down to the street art!