A Market Tour of Tours.
We are just back from a long-anticipated trip to France — two weeks in Paris and a final week in Tours, a beautiful city in the Loire Valley. I will, of course, write about both cities in the future but, for now, I wanted to give you a little glimpse into the market scene in Tours.
In brief, it is phenomenal. Les Halles (lay ahl) is a modern market house in the old part of the city, and it was just a few minutes’ walk from the apartment we rented. In addition, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, the indoor market is augmented by an outdoor market right outside its doors. It’s all heaven to me. I started every day there, deciding what we would have for dinner.
Les Halles is filled with three aisles of meats, cheeses, vegetables, charcuterie, fish & seafood, prepared foods, breads, pastries, and chocolates. They even have a wonderful wine store and an exceptional spice shop. I quickly fell in love with the place. They are open every day, though on Sundays and Mondays some vendors are closed or open only half a day. It is a must see/buy/cook place if you are in Tours!
For today’s recipe that I created during our trip, I used three vendors: Poissonnerie Chez Miguel for the excellent shrimp — their array of seafood was so fresh and beautiful (with thanks for allowing me to use the photo above of the shrimp); I bought my sweet paprika, Herbes de Provence, and fleur de sel from Le Palais des Épices — their selection of spices and herbs is exceptional, and the staff are so helpful; and I finished my shopping at Les Belles Caves — the owners are incredibly knowledgeable and worked with me to pair my dish with a wine from the Loire Valley. You can read more about the wine selection on the Provence WineZine.
~ David
Developed and maintained by Inspiratech LLC.
Design by Themeshift.
Barb
June 1, 2024 at 5:32 amLes Halles is phenomenal!! I can understand that it was heaven for you. Shrimp recipe sounds excellent. Thanks for sharing, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 7:30 amIt is, Barb — have you been there? Glad you like the shrimp — nice and easy!
Barb
June 1, 2024 at 8:30 amNot yet, but it’s now on my bucket list, thanks to you!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
June 1, 2024 at 5:52 amThe market places that are found in Europe are absolutely wonderful, Tours’ market looks as though it provided you with inspiration for a delicious meal.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 7:29 amHave you been to Les Halles in Tours, Karen? I know you would love it. Thanks for your comment.
Mad Dog
June 1, 2024 at 6:07 amThose crevettes look divine – I’m sure you know how much I love paprika!
Fabulous market pictures too.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 7:28 amThanks, Mad Dog. I have to admit that my collection of paprikas is like gold to me — couldn’t cook without them! Okay, I could, but wouldn’t want to!
Mimi Rippee
June 1, 2024 at 7:03 amOhhh my. That market. What fun!!! And such a lovely recipe. I have a question. I grew up speaking French, and can still read it. Why is it not lay-Zall. With the “s” at the end of Les and the “H” at the beginning of Halles? I know you’re right because I’ve heard Anthony Bourdain say it. It’s just confusing to me.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 7:26 amI am with you! Also speaking French I pronounced it with the Z sound until this trip, when we were corrected and told not to pronounce it. No real explanation as to why, though, and I am still trying to train Mark to leave off the z. Like English, there are some grammar and pronunciation rules that make no sense. Glad you like the recipe — so simple — and I know you would go bonkers in the market!
Melissa
June 1, 2024 at 7:56 amThis sounds fantastic, as does Les Halles in Tours–I’ve never been, but it’s going on the list for my next trip to France. I’ll be picking up some shrimp and checking on my paprika supply soon! Bienvenue à la maison!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 2:13 pmOh, Melissa — you will love the market in Tours. Lovely small city, too. I hope you like the shrimp!
Jane Sanders
June 1, 2024 at 8:16 amDavid – My husband is allergic to shrimp. Would cod be a good substitute and what cooking adjustment
do you think I would need to make? The photos were wonderful – thanks for sharing.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 2:15 pmHi Jane — I would make this using black cod — it has a scallop-like taste. Or with monkfish. The cooking instructions would be the same —but black cod cooks very quickly, and monkfish takes longer. Glad you like the recipe!
Carolyn Niethammer
June 1, 2024 at 8:38 amFirst the scallops, now the shrimp. Both perfect for the long summer we now face.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 2:15 pmThanks, Carolyn! I do love seafood and fish in the summer months! Stay cool!
Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food Voulez-Vous Vouvray? - Provence WineZine
June 1, 2024 at 9:41 am[…] A recipe I created the week before in Paris, Crevettes au Paprika Doux, needed a good wine pairing. I made it several times during out three-week trip and everyone for whom I made it loved it. It is a wonderful and easy-to-prepare first course, or can be doubled as a main course. The recipe is on Cocoa & Lavender. […]
Gerlinde de Broekert
June 1, 2024 at 1:46 pmWhat a treat , I like Les Halles in Paris but I have never been in Tours. I like be the markets in Europe. They are phenomenal.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 1, 2024 at 2:16 pmThey are incredible, Gerlinde — the Tours market is just beautiful!
sherry
June 1, 2024 at 7:17 pmoh yes i too was wondering why the s on the end of les was not pronounced? seems that it should be, doesn’t it? if you go along with other French words and phrases. anyways i am drooling over those prawns! they look the business! That produce all looks so fabulous. Must have been a great trip.
cheers
sherry
Cocoa & Lavender
June 4, 2024 at 8:32 amIt was a fantastic trip, Sherry, and we can’t wait to go back. I know it will be a long time, but it will give us good dreams in the meantime. And that market? Just fabulous! I asked my French friends about the “S“ and none of them had a good explanation. So I just looked it up on the Internet… Apparently, in French, the H is never aspirated. So you would never hear it with Halles, Homards (lobster), or Hôtels. At least now we know.
angiesrecipes
June 1, 2024 at 8:10 pmThat market will be my happy place 🙂 Those jumbo shrimp look so tempting.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 4, 2024 at 8:32 amDitto to that, Angie! Just amazing.
Ronit Penso
June 2, 2024 at 9:40 amMy kind of dish – full of flavors, yet quick and easy to make.
I also opted for a shrimp dish this week. Maybe it’s something in the air! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
June 4, 2024 at 8:32 amI have your dish on the menu for next week and I even have the Angel hair… I will work on no overcooking it!
Inger
June 3, 2024 at 7:24 pmAll of my favorite things at this beautiful market. And of course, your shrimp may just manage to pull me out of my shrimp rut–especially if I get my act together and make some of your great French bread! Looking forward to hearing more about your trip!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 4, 2024 at 8:33 amIsn’t it funny how we, as food bloggers, get into specific food ruts? My biggest one is salad dressing… I never change my dressing…
Jeff the Chef
June 5, 2024 at 6:03 amI have a feeling I’d love that market! I’ve been to France, but when I travel, I so have never thought to do any cooking at all. This makes me realize that I’ve missed such an important slice of life in the places I’ve been!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 9, 2024 at 11:47 amHonestly, Jeff, I think my favorite part about traveling is going to the markets, finding produce we can’t get here, and cooking! Sounds crazy, eh?
Raymund
June 5, 2024 at 6:20 pmDavid, your tour of the markets in Tours has me yearning for a trip to France! Les Halles sounds like a food lover’s paradise, with its diverse array of vendors offering everything from fresh seafood to artisanal spices. It’s inspiring to hear how you incorporated ingredients from local vendors into your cooking during your stay. I can’t wait to read more about your culinary adventures in Paris and beyond!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 9, 2024 at 11:48 amit is really my favorite thing to do when I travel, Raymund. It’s funny how I choose the apartment based on how close it is to the market!
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
June 6, 2024 at 6:04 amWonderful! This post brought back such memories. I lived in Paris for two years and I was blown away by the food markets. Even the supermarkets. It was truly a foodie’s dream. I’m sure you had a blast. Looking forward to your upcoming posts!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 9, 2024 at 11:49 amI’m so glad that Paris is still a foodie’s dream, Frank. We were quite disappointed in Germany that the markets seem to have gone and have been replaced by supermarkets. As you say, the supermarkets in Paris are pretty good!
Marcelle
June 9, 2024 at 8:28 amI’m so happy you and Mark had a wonderful vacation in France. That market does look magical to me too 🙂 I can’t wait to see your photos from the rest of the trip, I love your travel posts! I shrimp dish looks so delicious, David. We have to try it this summer!! I’m visiting my mom this week, we have to pick up some fresh gulf shrimp for this.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 9, 2024 at 9:12 amThanks, Marcelle —- I would so love a daily market here, but am quite happy with our farmers market!
You will love this shrimp dish — especially with fresh shrimp from the Gulf!
Velva
June 13, 2024 at 7:37 amDavid, your recipe is being served up on Saturday paired with a bourboulenc from Acquiesce. I will share a photo this weekend.
Velva
2pots2cook
June 24, 2024 at 6:32 amSo with you all the way! My son had a semester of first year of collage preparatory (guess you say it this way) in Paris so we really enjoyed living close to the farmer’s market. What a pleasant memories! Will enjoy it once again when Olympics are over.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 24, 2024 at 9:21 amIt is going to be such a mess for the Olympics! I feel bad for all the people who are putting so much into it… So many details to be worked out. Definitely go afterwards.
Valentina
June 24, 2024 at 12:33 pmOne of my favorite things about traveling in Europe is the market scene. Like you, it’s heaven for me. The shrimp dish is perfection! I’m like a kid in a candy store. 🙂 ~Valentina