Churches and Cemeteries.
When Mark and I were talking with a friend about our recent time in Paris, they asked what we had seen. At one point in the conversation I added, “Lots of churches.” It wasn’t a negative comment, but Mark looked at me and said defensively, “We didn’t go to that many churches.” Churches are a favorite for both of us. In Europe, the church is – or once was – the center of the community, an object of patronage, and the decoration can be stunning. One of the best examples we saw was the Abbey church of Saint-Germain des Prés. We visited it in 2016, when it was drab and in disrepair. If there was a bright side to lock-down in 2020, it was that closure povided an opportunity to do badly-needed repair and restoration of the 1860s painted décor. What a difference! Note that in the second row (first photo), the Red Sea is closing on the Egyptians while Moses looks toward what seems to be the Montparnasse Tower. Mark assures me it’s the pillar of cloud that guided the fleeing Israelites. But, really? Look at it…
One Sunday morning, Mark and I ventured off to Saint-Sulpice to hear the 10:00am weekly organ recital. This isn’t any organ; it is one of several in Paris constructed by the 19th-century builder Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, who revolutionized the instrument by using new technologies, which in turn revolutionized the music composed for organ. The program was French romantic; Mark was in seventh heaven. The church is near Les Deux Magots, where, after the concert, we stopped in to sip some of their chocolat chaud and people watch. Coincidentally, and I’m jumping ahead a bit, we came across the organ builder’s grave while touring the Montparnasse Cemetery later that week.
On May Day, a national holiday in France, we had another round of chocolat chaud at Café de Flore (next door to Les Deux Magots), and then walked along the Left Bank ridge to Saint-Étienne du Mont. I just love the purple doors. Construction on the church lasted from 1494 to 1624, and it is (or, before the Revolution, was) the resting place for Sainte-Geneviève, patron saint of Paris, as well as mathematician and physicist Blaise Pascal, and playwright Jean Racine.
Notre-Dame remains closed for restoration, but we wanted Barbara to get a sense of its immensity, so we took her to a little-visited favorite of ours, Saint-Eustache — just a few doors away from the well-known kitchen store, E. Dehillerin. Saint-Eustache is the same length and width as Notre-Dame, but is taller. It has a beautiful interior which is undergoing some restoration at the moment thanks to the World Monuments Fund. It houses a beautiful triptych by American artist Keith Haring, memorializing that church’s place in the history of HIV/AIDS activism in Paris.
Our final church for this post is the one that can be seen from almost anywhere in Paris: Sacré-Coeur. Every morning, we stepped out on our balcony to check the light on this iconic church. It was built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in a somewhat imaginary Romanesque-Byzantine style, and is partially decorated with immense mosaics of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, also ostensibly in Byzantine style. It is truly worth going in and spending some time to marvel at the artistry.
We visited two major cemeteries while in Paris, the first being the Montparnasse Cemetery, to which we were introduced by our friend Marie-Lise. The cemetery was beautiful and included tombs of authors Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre (I had no idea they were a couple!), playwright Marguerite Duras, and the aforementioned organ builder Aristide Cavaillé-Coll. There is a beautiful mirrored sculpture of a bird by Niki de Saint Phalle memorializing her friend: “A mon Ami Jean-Jacques un oiseau qui s’est envolé trop tôt” (To my friend Jean-Jacques who flew away too early).
The most famous, though little-visited, cemetery in Paris is Père Lachaise, a beautiful shady cemetery with undulating paths on its steep slopes. There we found the tombs of composer Gioachino Rossini (though I learned his remains were later moved to Santa Croce in Florence), Georges-Eugène Haussmann (the man responsible for the renovation of Paris under Napoleon III), artist Théodore Géricault (known for The Raft of the Medusa in the Louvre), and — my favorite — chemist Antoine Augustin Parmentier (who convinced France that potatoes are a worthy food). The soup, Potage Parmentier, bears his name and will be here on the pages of Cocoa & Lavender soon. Note the carved stone potatoes that have been left on his tomb by admirers.
Till next week, when we look at a few Museums and some wonderful Street Art. And thanks to Markipedia, who let me use several of his photos in this post!
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Mimi Rippee
June 19, 2024 at 5:46 amBeautiful photos! No food photos??!!
David Scott Allen
June 20, 2024 at 9:31 amI might squeeze in a few photos of food that I cooked, but I never took any pictures when we dined out. Go figure!
Chris
June 19, 2024 at 6:11 amThanks so much for sharing! Incredibly stunning in so many ways.
I marvel at your knowledge and retention of knowledge.
I have taken hundreds of Governor Mifflin students to see Keith Haring’s alter piece at The Cathedral of St John the Devine, where his memorial service was held, in NYC. (Keith was from Berks County and his Uncle taught where I taught art at GM.)
Until now, I didn’t know there were multiples of his final artwork, the alter piece.
WOW! Thanks again for sharing!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 20, 2024 at 9:33 amThanks so much, Chris! We had an incredible time, there was so much beauty in every direction. I did not know that there was a Keith Herring at St. John the Divine! It’s a stunning piece of art, isn’t it?
PS, I have to give credit to Markipedia for helping with all the details!
Mad Dog
June 19, 2024 at 7:04 amI’m not in the least bit religious, but I always like to look around churches. The Cimetière de Montmartre is also worth visiting and is just behind the Moulin Rouge. I was half expecting to see a picture of Victor Noir’s tomb, in Père Lachaise.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 20, 2024 at 9:35 amI’m really not religious either, Mad Dog, but I love going in and seeing the incredible architecture and art in churches. Until you mentioned him, I had no idea who Victor Noir was. I did look him up… I was so excited to see Parmentier’s tomb, with all the carved potatoes.
Barb
June 19, 2024 at 7:39 amStunning pictures of incredible architecture! Thank you and Mark for sharing them.
Looking forward to the Potage Parmentier recipe.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 20, 2024 at 9:35 amI’m so glad you enjoyed it, Barb. I’m having so much fun putting these posts together… They bring back so many wonderful memories.
Jill W Becker
June 19, 2024 at 10:04 amAs always, stunning photos and so much information. Thanks
Cocoa & Lavender
June 20, 2024 at 9:35 amI think Markipedia for the information! He helped me get through all the details.
sherry
June 19, 2024 at 12:01 pmglorious photos David. the churches are so beautiful. I love a good cemetery! And i like to sit in churches and enjoy the peace. It gets harder these days as so many are locked now against vandals. I think it was a religious thing to allow people to wander in and sit and contemplate but no longer …
cheers
sherry
Cocoa & Lavender
June 20, 2024 at 9:36 amit was incredibly peaceful and almost all the churches we visited. Very rarely were they’re more than 10 people with us. That makes the visit incredibly, Sherry. And, we didn’t find one single church with its doors closed in France. That was very haartening. .
Marian Jensen
June 19, 2024 at 1:00 pmWonderful photos and commentary, David. Thanks for taking us along on this trip!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 20, 2024 at 9:37 amI’m glad you’re enjoying seeing friends with us virtually, Marian.
angiesrecipes
June 20, 2024 at 10:39 amThe churches look magnificent! You took some beautiful pictures, David.
Cocoa & Lavender
June 21, 2024 at 8:47 amThanks, Angie! It is fun putting these photos together, as they bring back such wonderful memories.
Jean | DelightfulRepast.com
June 21, 2024 at 7:03 amDavid, what a fabulous trip you’re taking us all on with your beautiful commentary and your and Markipedia’s outstanding photography!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 21, 2024 at 8:45 amThank you, Jean, I really appreciate your warm and kind comments. We had a wonderful trip and it’s nice to have you along with us, even if it’s virtually.
Carolyn Niethammer
June 21, 2024 at 11:04 amNo matter how many times one goes to Paris, it can always be new!
Cocoa & Lavender
June 22, 2024 at 7:25 amThat is the absolute truth, Carolyn. There is always something new around every corner, and maybe it was always there… and this was the first time you looked up to see it!
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
June 21, 2024 at 12:35 pmA tour of churches and a cemetery? Sounds like my kind of day. 🙂 We’re about to take off for LIsbon, Naples and Rome, and you know that there’ll be many churches on the agenda. Especially in Rome.
I must say, Saint-German is looking anything but drab now. Those murals are spectacular. Funny I don’t think I went in in all the time I spent in Paris…
I was curious what you thought of Notre Dame from the outside. Is it looking “normal” now?
Cocoa & Lavender
June 22, 2024 at 7:29 amFrank – Notre Dame isn’t looking normal quite yet but it seems every day a bit more scaffolding comes down reveal its beauty. They say by December it should be open but I think scaffolding still might be there for a bit. It was so profoundly poignant to see the passion with which the workers are restoring it. Both of us cried a bit when we were there…
You must go to Saint-Germain next trip. It’s an amazing sight.
Ah well, the churches in Rome… yes, they are something to behold. I think my favorite will always be Sant’Ignazio. It lays takes my breath away.
Karen (Back Road Journal)
June 23, 2024 at 1:58 pmChurches and cemeteries are true works of art in themselves and your wonderful photos prove that. My husband always jokes that he has seen more churches and castles than he cares to remember but he is always up to see one more. 😊
Cocoa & Lavender
June 24, 2024 at 9:23 amLike your husband, I always say the same thing. And, yet, I’m enchanted every time I’m in a new castle or church. I love cemeteries here in the States, as well. There’s so many wonderful old ones, especially in New England, where you and I both used to live.
Valentina
June 24, 2024 at 12:44 pmSuch stunning art and architecture — breathtaking! Your travel posts never fail to make me want to hop on a plane. I learned so my interesting things in your post. So informative, and I love this tour through you images (and Mark’s). 🙂 ~Valentina