Gardens.

Paris is filled with gardens — big and small, public and private. Their greenery and blossom take on extra importance in the dense urban center, and offer residents places of relaxation. Though not generally on the tourist itinerary, bustling Paris has its share to please. 

After visiting the Musée de Nissim de Camondo, we strolled through Parc Monceau which borders the museum property. The park was filled with visitors that Saturday afternoon. They picnicked, played games, read on benches, rode ponies or the carrousel, or simply strolled arm in arm. We came across a sculpture and, judging from the symbols used, we knew it was in honor of a musician. Once home, we were able to identify it as monument to the French romantic composer Charles Gounod. Park Monceau is laid out in a British style of meandering paths and irregularly-shaped ponds, with lush plantings in clumps among lawns. It also had several bridges and architectural follies, such as fake ruins.

On May Day, following chocolat chaud and pastries at Café de Flore, Marie-Lise walked us over to the Jardin de Luxembourg. It is as formal and Italianate as Parc Monceau was self-consciously informal. The Italian influence is no surprise, given the palace and garden’s origins as residence for Maria de’ Medici. Originally from Tuscany, she was a widow of France’s King Henri IV, and regent for her little son Louis XIII. As our visit fell on a national holiday, the garden was filled with people — families, young couples, groups of friends, and — of course — many tourists. But is is large enough to absorb large numbers with elegant ease. You can bring toy sailboats, or rent them there, to cross the high seas of the main fountain. The rental boats sported the flags of many countries. NB: Do not walk on the grass in French parks and gardens unless there are signs saying it is permitted. The Jardin de Luxembourg has several specific areas where visitors are welcome to déjeuner sur l’herbe. It was truly a joyful scene on a sunny holiday.

Mark had been wanting to visit the Jardin des Plantes during this visit to Paris, so off we went. There, we found many people strolling and enjoying the beautiful flowerbeds, roses, and the educational garden with culinary herbs and medicinal plants. In hindsight, I wish we had gone into the Grande Galerie de l’Évolution, not solely for the exhibition but to see the grand limestone building’s glass and metal interiors. It looks amazing. Next time…

If you need a break from the Louvre and its crowds, I definitely recommend the formal garden at the Palais Royal across the Rue de Rivoli. It is elegantly laid out and a very nice place to get some shade and enjoy the flowers. Both sides are lined with arcades that shelter boutiques, bakeries, and restaurants (one of which will feature in an upcoming recipe post).

For our last and most colorful garden, we headed northwest of Paris to the little town of Giverny in the department of Eure (Normandy), for a visit to the home and legendary gardens of artist Claude Monet. No matter the times of year I have visited Monet’s gardens, they have been magical. This year was no exception; the formal house gardens were ablaze with tulips and a variety of spring bulbs, along with many different annuals and perennials, tree peonies, and azaleas. A walk through the house started in his studio, then through both floors, where we could see Monet’s love of Japanese prints, and his welcoming dining room and kitchen.

From the house garden, we went to the pond area, a great contrast with its meandering paths, bamboo groves, long irregular pond with water lilies and Japanesque bridge. The latter feature in many of Monet’s paintings. We were too early in the season for water lily blossoms, but were thrilled to find the wisteria and azaleas in full bloom. They created magical views. If we squinted (or took off our glasses) we could get the full impressionist effect.

Next up? What to see when NOT in Paris.

~ David