As we near the autumnal equinox, the weather will cool down (north of the equator, anyway) and produce in the markets will change. Pumpkins, squash, eggplant, and peppers will reign. Among my autumn favorites is the variety of mushrooms that become available. Which brings me to today’s subject, a new cookbook by Krista Towns: Mushroom Gastronomy, published by Gibbs Smith in June 2024. (Photos above by Krista Towns.)
Towns starts with the basic cookbook format, which I find helpful: food safety, pantry basics, cooking methods, followed by a section about cultivated versus foraged mushrooms. She makes a very important point: “If you’re new to foraging, the best idea, of course, is to go with an experienced guide.” To that point, in the words you might find in an etiquette book, “One does hate to kill one’s guests at the dinner table.”
While no single cookbook could cover every type of mushroom, Towns does a great job of presenting a wide variety that are both readily available and hard-to-source. Some are particularly seasonal (porcini and truffles), and others found in just about every grocery store year-round (button, cremini, portobello, shiitake, and a variety of oyster mushrooms).
Mushroom by mushroom, Towns writes about the character of each, how it is best used, its nutritional value, proper storage, cooking methods, and any additional culinary tips you might want to know. Her inclusion of flavor pairings for each variety is most helpful for inventing a recipe of your own (which she encourages). She includes creative recipes for each variety — including desserts and beverages — that are beautiful, and very flavorful; the photography in the book is stunning, making me want to eat every recipe within.
As always, when I review a cookbook, I make at least three distinctly different recipes from the book. This time, I made Orecchiette with Cremini and Cherry Tomatoes, Beech Mushroom and Green Bean Casserole, and the Crispy Lion’s Mane Fried “Fish” Sandwich. I loved all three and will not stop with just these. Now that mushroom season is soon upon us, I’ll be working my way through each section of the book. The diversity of recipes is fantastic — there is something for everyone, perhaps even for a mushroom hater.
I chose the three dishes based on availability at the time. The orecchiette dish because it uses ingredients you may normally have in the house. The recipe for beech mushroom and green bean casserole — a Spanish twist on the traditional — is definitely not the traditional Thanksgiving green bean and mushroom casserole: it likely will become a holiday tradition in our home. It calls for brown beech mushrooms — or Buna-shimeji — which are readily available at most Asian grocery, and also sometimes at Trader Joe’s.
And then there is the recipe I’ve chosen to share with you today for Crispy Lion’s Mane Fried “Fish” Sandwich. I got my mushrooms at our local farmers market from Desert Pearl Mushrooms, and I have seen them in some grocery stores, as well. It is said that lion’s mane mushrooms have a seafood taste to them, and that they pair well with seafood. While I didn’t think it tasted like seafood, I can easily see how they would pair well because of their meaty texture. This sandwich was excellent. It is honestly the most amazing mushroom sandwich I’ve had, and I highly recommend trying it. Towns’ use of buttermilk for marinating the mushrooms made for a perfectly textured interior; the panko crusted exterior provided an excellent contrast. Note: For the tartar sauce, I include Towns’ recipe below, but made my own version mixing some chopped capers and a chopped quarter of a preserved lemon (both home-preserved) with some mayonnaise along with a dash each of salt and chile powder.
One note Towns makes is that people these days are turning to mushrooms as a meat substitute. While this is not a vegetarian cookbook, it is very vegetable-forward. There are many nutritional benefits to mushrooms that make them an excellent choice for everyone’s kitchen.
I highly recommend Mushroom Gastronomy. It is currently available in a hardback edition.
~ David
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Carolyne
August 10, 2024 at 5:01 amI need to buy that book. I love mushrooms, and oh my, that burger looks amazing.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 8:35 amThere are so many delicious recipes within, Carolyne — you will love this!
Mad Dog
August 10, 2024 at 6:11 amThat looks delicious! I’ve got some Shitake and Oyster spores embeded in a couple of logs and was thinking of trying lion’s mane mushrooms next time. I’ve also got magic mushrooms which keep popping up in my Geraniums, but I didn’t cultivate them and there are two types which can cause kidney failure! I think the spores must have been in the compost…
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 8:36 amI have wanted to cultivate my own mushrooms but it is really hard here in the desert without a lot of space to give the spires the right atmosphere. I am so glad others are doing it so I can buy mushrooms from them!
Barb
August 10, 2024 at 7:45 amAll three recipes sound delicious! I have not yet eaten Lion’s Mane mushrooms, so you have presented the perfect opportunity to try them. I do know they provide medicinal benefits for brain health.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 8:36 amI like lion’s mane mushrooms a lot. They don’t necessarily remind me of seafood but they are really meaty and nice to sauté until crisp. Thanks, Barb — I think you will enjoy the book.
Mimi Rippee
August 10, 2024 at 8:34 amI love your blog! You always make something unique, which is what I love doing as well. I have no access to anything other than your basic buttons, unfortunately, unless I venture to Whole Foods. So I probably won’t get this cookbook, but it’s fascinating!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 8:37 amThank you for that lovely compliment, Mimi — it’s mutual. While Foods is a help when searching for mushrooms. I wish you had an Asian grocer near you — they have so many wonderful varieties!
Barb
August 10, 2024 at 10:24 amhttps://www.oregonmushrooms.com/c-2-fresh-mushrooms.aspx
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 10:29 amThanks!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
August 10, 2024 at 9:10 amI’m like Mimi, about as exotic of a mushroom I have available is Shitake. However, the book sounds like an interesting one to read.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 9:48 amI feel very fortunate, Karen — between our farmers market, Asian grocer, and Whole Foods, I have so much choice. Still, shiitakes are a wonder mushroom!
Melissa
August 10, 2024 at 11:40 amWe love mushrooms, so I’m definitely going to buy this book! All the recipes you discussed sound wonderful and happily, I have very reliable sources of all sorts of mushrooms here. Thanks, David!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 12:56 pmThanks, Missy — I love all the places there to buy mushrooms! Such a choice! I love this bok — so creative!
Jill W Becker
August 10, 2024 at 9:51 pmA new food group (other than button or portobello) for us. Must try.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 11, 2024 at 6:51 amThere is so much fun out there to be had, Jill!
Jeff the Chef
August 11, 2024 at 5:00 amI don’t think I’ve ever seen a lion’s mane mushroom! But I have to confess to not knowing a whole lot about mushrooms. I do know a fish sandwich when I see one, though, and yours looks absolutely delicious even if it’s not actual fish!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 11, 2024 at 6:52 amThanks, Jeff. Lion’s mane mushrooms are in the first photo bottom right and in the third photo on the right. They are quite beautiful.
Jean | DelightfulRepast.com
August 11, 2024 at 7:44 amThis looks like a book, and a recipe, I’d definitely enjoy! I don’t eat a lot of fried foods but I’d definitely try one of these gorgeous sandwiches. I still remember well a woman my mother considered a “friend” when I was a little girl. I always had bad vibes about the woman, so when my mother mentioned that the woman foraged for mushrooms, I blurted out, “Don’t eat them!” My mother assured me that the woman knew what she was doing and thought I was being a silly little girl, but I did not believe that woman had any love for us and said, “Yeah, that’s what I’m afraid of!”
Ronit Penso
August 11, 2024 at 9:27 amThough I’m not such a mushrooms connoisseur, I do enjoy the ones that are easily available. I don’t recall seeing lion’s mane mushrooms, but am very intrigued by them, and the recipe. I’ll definitely be looking for them! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
August 11, 2024 at 9:38 amRonit — they seem to be one of the more prevalent of cultivated mushrooms, often available at places like Whole Foods. I wonder if your farmers market might have them?
Ronit Penso
August 13, 2024 at 12:02 pmYes, I’ve found them at Whole Foods today. Funny how I haven’t noticed them so far, as I do buy other types of mushrooms there. Though I didn’t buy them, as I have other cooking plans for this weekend, it’s good to know they are more easily available than I thought. Thanks for pointing them out! 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
August 18, 2024 at 9:07 amWhole Foods has really upped their mushroom game in the past year — glad you found them. When you try them, I’ll be curious to know how you like them!
Pauline McNee
August 11, 2024 at 7:16 pmLion’s Mane Mushrooms is such a fascinating name for mushrooms, and the name of the dish that emanates from the mushroom is also. I adore mushrooms, however our choice is fairly limited, I must check out the Asian grocery though. You’ve written a great review David, sounds like such an a interesting book.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 12, 2024 at 11:17 amLion’s mane mushrooms are so beautiful, and they slice beautifully for sautéing until crispy and golden-brown. Maybe they will show up there soon — they seem to be new here!
sherry
August 12, 2024 at 7:58 pmAs you probably know, that is a burger rather than a sandwich to an Aussie :=) But either way, it looks so bloody delicious, David. Of course i have to mention the mushroom murderer here. She is in jail for murdering 3 or is it 4 people? and then again there was that other death at a wellness retreat – a mushroom dish of some kind. Gotta watch out for those mushroom foragers…
cheers
sherry
David Scott Allen
August 13, 2024 at 4:02 pmOh, believe me, I remember you mentioning this crazy woman before! It sounds like an Agatha Christie book. The one with the wellness retreat? Well that’s just perverse… As for fish sandwich versus burger, I think a fish burger is very different from a piece of deep-fried fish in a sandwich. If you put your fish from fish and chips in a bun with tartar sauce, would you call it a burger? Differences like this around the world amuse me!
velva-evening With A Sandwich
August 14, 2024 at 7:11 amFantastic fried fish sandwich with Lion Mane’s mushrooms. This is a clever flavor, texture combination.
I am a lover of mushrooms. Only recently at the Farmers market have I really stepped up my mushroom game.
Looks like a great cookbook.
Velva
Cocoa & Lavender
August 14, 2024 at 7:49 amI love mushrooms, too, Velva, and am always amazined by the haters. Usually, it’s a texture thing but each mushroom is so different. I love this cookbook and plan to use it often!
angiesrecipes
August 14, 2024 at 8:06 pmMushrooms are one of very few vegetables I am willing and can eat without stomach issues. And wow..look at all those exotic fungi! I am adding this to my X’mas list :-)) Thank you David, for the wonderful and honest review.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 16, 2024 at 7:57 amThat is great to know, Angie — I’m so sorry veggies are such a challenge for you.
2pots2cook
August 16, 2024 at 5:04 amWow ! Intrigued by desserts! Must buy! Thank you!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 16, 2024 at 7:56 amI am curious about the dessert recipes, too!
Valentina
August 16, 2024 at 5:42 pmWowza! I love everything about this recipe. Actually, truth be told, I’ve never eaten a lions mane mushroom, but the the way it’s marinated, coated and fried is calling to me. So cool, and yes it’s on my to cook list. Thinking our local Farmer’s Market might have them on Sunday. 🙂 ~Valentina
And what a beautiful book!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 17, 2024 at 9:22 amIt’s definitely a great recipe and I hope you make it. We both enjoyed it thoroughly, and the book is amazing!
Valentina
August 18, 2024 at 4:02 pmI was so happy to find the mushrooms at the farmers market this morning. The sandwich was incredible! My mushrooms must have been a bit smaller than yours because two or three filled each sandwich. The tartar sauce was delicious. The only thing I did differently was skip the cheese. Everyone absolutely loved it! Thank you!
Cocoa & Lavender
August 22, 2024 at 3:54 pmI’m so pleased you liked this — and Krista Towns was, too. I know you would love this cookbook, Valentina! Thanks for letting me know you made it and that everyone enjoyed it.
Raymund
August 28, 2024 at 4:05 pmMushroom Gastronomy sounds like a must-have for any fungi fan like me! s. The Crispy Lion’s Mane Fried “Fish” Sandwich you tried sounds absolutely divine, and it’s great to hear that it lived up to your expectations. I’m definitely adding this cookbook to my list
Cocoa & Lavender
August 28, 2024 at 10:36 pmIt’s a wonderful book, and I hope you enjoy it. I’m also glad that you liked my version of the crispy fish sandwich.
Inger
August 30, 2024 at 8:56 pmMy husband’s a huge mushroom fanatic and would be head-over-heels for this. I’ll have to see what mushrooms the next farmer’s market has!