Back to the Maghreb.
As we we prepare for our return to Morocco, I keep myself happy by recreating the recipes we tasted while there last visit. Today, for example, I am making some Briwats bil J’ben, an appetizer we enjoyed thoroughly at Café Clock in Fez. J’ben is a spreadable goat cheese from the Rif Mountains of Morocco; while I tried my best to make it from scratch, I just could not get the right texture. Perhaps I will learn when we are back in Morocco.
For my recipe, I used homemade goat milk ricotta and added some finely grated lemon zest and fresh thyme. It worked very well. When buying your phyllo dough, make sure you get the best quality available and pay attention to the manufacture and expiration dates. I’ve been disappointed by old, dry, and flaky phyllo. The rest of the ingredients are easy, and I share my recipe for the Chermoula spice blend below in the notes.
Onward to the Maghreb!
~ David
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 5 large plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
- 1 teaspoon chermoula (see notes)
- 1/4 teaspoon hot paprika
- 2-3 tablespoons water
- 3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup j’ben (see notes)
- 1 egg
- large pinch salt
- 8 sheets phyllo dough (see notes)
Instructions
- Start by making the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped tomatoes, chermoula, paprika, and a pinch of salt. Cook until the tomatoes have melted. Add the water and cook a few moments longer. Purée the mixture and set aside (or you can leave it somewhat chunky).
- Preheat oven to 350°F. Place rack in the center of the oven.
- Mix together the j’ben, egg, and salt.
- Working with one sheet of phyllo dough (keep the others covered with a damp cloth), cut it into four strips, each 3-inches wide and 8-inches long. Brush all four strips with melted butter and take two strips and add to the other two to double their strength. Place one teaspoon of the cheese at the end closest to you. Fold over into a triangle, then fold the triangle over again, like folding a flag, until you have used up the strip. Repeat with teh second doubled strip of phyllo. The butter should keep them sealed. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining phyllo dough sheets until you have used up both the phyllo and the cheese. Brush all the briwats with butter.
- Bake the briwats for 18 minutes, until golden. Divide the sauce between four small ramekins and place a ramekin on each of four plates. Arrange four pastries around each ramekin, garnish with parsley, and serve. Diners can dip their pastries in the sauce as they nibble.
- Makes 16 briwats, serving 4 people.
- Notes:
- — Make chermoula by mixing 2 tablespoons sweet paprika, 1 tablespoon medium-hot paprika, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, and 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads. This makes about 1/4 cup. Label and store leftover in a tightly-sealed jar. It is a great seasoning for fish and seafood dishes.
- — J’ben is a soft fresh goat cheese. I used drained fresh goat ricotta mixed with lemon zest and thyme in this recipe. Or you can mix regular ricotta with goat cheese — about 50/50.
- — If you make your own goat ricotta, don’t let it strain too long — you don’t want it too firm.
- — You will have leftover phyllo dough. Use it to wrap fish filets before sautéing/baking, make small hors d’œuvres shells, or a make a b’stilla.
- — Briwats are also spelled using the French: briouats.
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Eha Carr
January 18, 2025 at 4:21 amWonderful! I only knew these beauties as briouats! And you chermoula recipe is simpler than mine and I know there is fresh goat ricotta around . . . oh, your plate looks so inviting . . . and lucky, lucky you about returning to Morocco . . . I wish >
Mad Dog
January 18, 2025 at 6:02 amThey look delicious! I bet you can find incredible hand made phyllo dough in Morocco.