Le Signore delle Verdure.
Mark and I are just back from Rome… literally yesterday. We spent three weeks in the Eternal City and, like our three weeks prior in France and Switzerland, it is never enough. But we have to come home sometime, right? And we will go back…
When choosing the locations for the apartments we rent, the first criteria is that it must be near a market. In Paris, we were just steps from the Marché de la Bastille. In Zürich, we were a couple of blocks from the market in Oerlikon, where our friends live. And, of course, in Rome we chose to be half a block from the historic Campo de’ Fiori market — daily except Sunday. We have chosen this neighborhood the three times we have been here — it’s not just close to the market but also near many things we want to see: museums, churches, historic sights.
Fifteen years ago, at the market, we met produce vendors Franca, now 92, and her daughter Sonia: I call them Le Signore delle Verdure (the Vegetable Ladies). That was an autumnal visit — we bought porcini several times and I wrote about it then in my post, Arrivederci Roma. I visited them every day. Years later, we had another fall visit, and I bought more porcini, plus pears, apples, small green tomatoes, and squash. This year’s trip was a spring visit: peas, spring onions, fava beans, artichokes, strawberries, cherries, apricots, loquats, and lettuces for salads. Their selection is wonderful.
Whenever I tell them what I’m going to make, without hesitation they put together all the vegetables I needed for my intended recipe. They are literally handing me the recipe as they gather the ingredients. No need to measure or weigh — they just know. If you ever need vegetables or fruit when in Rome, please visit them — they are the best!
When I told them I had bought coda di manzo (oxtail) at the butcher shop to make Coda di Vaccinara, a traditional Roman oxtail stew — Franca immediately asked, «Arrosto o in umido?» (roasted or braised). As our apartment had no oven, I told her I’d make them on the stove top. Within seconds, Sonia started putting together my recipe: two small onions, three ribs of celery, two medium carrots, a branch of Roma tomatoes, and, of course, potatoes to mash for serving. No instructions from her but a brief affirmation: “You know what to do.”
That said, I checked several recipes online. My innovation has one thing that I didn’t see in any other: diced guanciale. We had bought a fairly large piece of it when we first got to Rome to make carbonara, amatriciana, and gricia — three of the traditional Roman pastas. We needed to use it up, so I put it in the stew; you could use pancetta instead, or skip it completely. The final addition to this recipe is dark chocolate. I did see that in a couple of recipes, and thought it was a nice idea, especially as we had a really good bean-to-bar chocolate shop (Amir Roma) just down the street. It adds a silky depth to the stew.
This is another dish that doesn’t exactly scream “summer“ but, as you know from my risotto post a couple of weeks ago, hot weather doesn’t stop me from good food. One of the delights of this recipe is that there will be plenty of sumptuous leftover sauce to serve over pasta the next day, perfect with just a grating of fresh cheese on top.
~ David
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angiesrecipes
May 30, 2026 at 3:45 amSonia sounds like a great cook! The produce at the market looks great, but what a price! I love oxtails..well, I LOVE the whole cow :-)) Your braised oxtails look fanfreakingtastic, David.
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:21 amThanks, Angie!
Yvonne Rolston
May 30, 2026 at 8:50 amLoved your description of the vendors!
When I first started to cook oxtail as a young woman, it was very cheap to buy – perfect for twenty-somethings getting started in life. Lately I am astounded at the high price and therefore rarely buy it. This recipe and your lovely story has given me extra reason to open my purse.
Thank you David and Mark!
Yvonne
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 10:23 amThanks, Yvonne — they are so delightful! The oxtails were very reasonable in Rome—I’ll need to check out the price at Albertsons! Hugs to you both,
David
Eha Carr
May 30, 2026 at 4:55 amWhat a wonderful story and a great but totally ‘doable’ recipe and absolutely terrific photos of your Rome market ladies – what fabulous spring vegetables on show – and my compliments to Franca for her very elegant glasses . . . not just being close to the fresh produce she sells keeping her young but, looking at her smile, her attitude to life . . . Meanwhile glad you are back safe and sound and with a new lot of memories . . . be well . . .
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:20 amThanks, Eha — yes, this is totally doable. No real big work at all! Just lots of time, which is good. I wish you could meet Franca and Sonia — they are the best. And yes, both their glasses are quite stylish. Their vegetable stand is truly an institution in Rome.
Mad Dog
May 30, 2026 at 4:57 amWhat a fabulous trip and beautiful market! I love oxtail and like you, the hot weather never puts me off cooking!
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:16 amWe die-hards just need to have good food all year long, Mad Dog.
FEL!X
May 30, 2026 at 5:45 amJust like it! No more to comment!!!
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:15 amThanks, Felix.
Susan Manfull
May 30, 2026 at 6:02 amA wonderful story about your love of food and all the people and places associated with it! What wine did you choose?
À table!
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:15 amExcellent question, Susan! We served with with a Primitivo (Zinfandel) that was excellent as a pairing. You and Tony have to try this!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
May 30, 2026 at 6:06 amI agree…we too believe that weather doesn’t stop us from enjoying good food anytime of the year. Oxtail is one of my husband’s favorite dishes and he would love your creation.
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:12 amThanks, Karen — I hope you do get to make this for him. I think it’s a very special version. We are planning to make your fish tacos this week! They look fabulous.
Barb
May 30, 2026 at 7:21 amGlad you and Mark had a wonderful trip and are back home! This stew sounds fabulous! The vegetable ladies are remarkable in that they just gather everything you need by telling them the name of the recipe. I’ve never added chocolate to savory food but you’ve convinced me to try it. I cook hearty recipes all year — that’s why we have A/C!
David Scott Allen
May 30, 2026 at 8:11 amThey are always our first visit when we get to Rome. They are very special people — and Sonia wrote this morning that she loved the blog post. 🩵 This is a great dish and the chocolate really just makes for a very rich and dark sauce — not at all “chocolate-y.” It’s funny — I always say that I cook this way because I have A/C, too. Great minds think alike.
Ronit Penso
May 30, 2026 at 4:32 pmThanks for sharing your heart warming experience with the “vegetable ladies” and their beautiful produce.
The dish looks SO good! I always add chocolate to my chili con carne, and to some other stews. A small amount indeed makes such a big difference. 🙂
David Scott Allen
May 31, 2026 at 4:35 amThanks, my friend. Chocolate is a nice ingredient to give a dish warmth and texture, without making it sweet. Glad to hear we are together on that, Ronit!
Camille Pons
May 30, 2026 at 9:42 pmWell now I need to book my tickets to Roma! I love the way you and Mark travel – in the heart of the city, steeped in culture and savoring your way through adventures. Are you the planner and the chef?
David Scott Allen
May 31, 2026 at 4:39 amDefinitely book your tickets, Camille! It is magical. On our last day we both said, “Could we stay another week?” I am the overall planner, making sure tickets (flights, trains, apartments) are booked, for the right dates and times, and I am most definitely the chef. Mark looks at all the marvels of a city and tells me about them, then we decide where to go, and i book the tickets. All the planning harkens back to development work, but in a good way!
Mimi Rippee
May 30, 2026 at 11:28 pmFantastic! I love that you have vegetable lady friends! Such beautiful produce. Well welcome home. I’m in France now and it’s perfect weather. I have many dinner reservations! I’ve already enjoyed foie gras for yesterday’s lunch!
David Scott Allen
May 31, 2026 at 4:41 amI am so glad you are having good weather — my friend who lives in Paris said it has been brutally hot and humid. I assume where yo are has air conditioning? We had foie gras only twice out and then once at the apartment with a blackcurrant glaze. Have a wonderful time! Profitez bien!
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
May 31, 2026 at 4:25 pmWhat a wonderful classic, David! Coda alla vaccinara is one of those deeply comforting dishes, and your version looks rich, hearty, and full of flavour.
David Scott Allen
May 31, 2026 at 4:46 pmThanks, Ben — it really is one of the most comforting dishes I know.
valentina
June 1, 2026 at 11:50 pmI love everything about this post! The ladies at the market over the years, the gorgeous produce, finishing the recipe with chocolate, the story … and your photo of the finished dish is so beautifully composed with the window across the way. I love this kind of meal any time of year. 🙂 ~Valentina
David Scott Allen
June 2, 2026 at 4:43 pmEvery time we visit that market, it makes Rome feel like home. I don’t think I have a connection like that with anyone else in other cities. I’m glad you like the recipe, and that you would have it anytime in the summer.
Carolyne
June 2, 2026 at 10:16 amAnother amazing recipe. I can’t wait to try it.
David Scott Allen
June 2, 2026 at 4:43 pmThanks, Carolyne. It’s quickly become a new favorite of ours.
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
June 3, 2026 at 12:57 pmYou’ve done well to cultivate a relationship with le signore. That’s the way things work in Italy as I’m sure you know. I had my signora as well back in the day, when we lived close to Campo de’ fiori. Funny how after I became a regular the prices went down. And the attention went up!
David Scott Allen
June 4, 2026 at 2:53 pmIt really is the way things work, Frank. When we first met them, I asked for porcini mushrooms. Franca preferably looked around, then took out a small box from below the counter and let me buy one mushroom. And, not the best looking one at that. The next day when I came back, she brought the box out and picked two of the most beautiful ones for me. It’s an amazing feeling to know that you are “in.“ i’m terrible that I don’t pay attention to the prices, but I do know that we got an extra tomato or artichoke here there. And, honestly, I love that she called us “ragazzi.”
Raymund
June 4, 2026 at 4:08 pmI love this Coda alla Vaccinaria is something I actually recognise because I’ve made it before, thanks to an over enthusiastic bunch of celery sitting in my fridge. Your version looks so much brighter and more elegant than mine ever did, and it reminded me how satisfying it is to turn a humble “leftover vegetable situation” into something genuinely delicious. Such a simple, clever dish, and you make it look beautiful.
David Scott Allen
June 5, 2026 at 9:16 amWow – thank you so much, Raymund. I love how your celery drove the recipe for you!
Gerlinde
June 8, 2026 at 6:51 amWhat a fun post to read. I love the European markets. They tell you so much about their culture and lifestyle. I wish I could cook all your delicious dishes. Unfortunately, my husband still can’t have anything acidic, that includes pinions and tomatoes. Adding chocolate sounds interesting.
David Scott Allen
June 9, 2026 at 9:45 pmI’m so sorry your husband has so many restrictions — but I know you are uo to the challenge to make him excellent food he can eat!
Inger
June 9, 2026 at 8:25 pmWhat a delightful relationship David! And I happen to have oxtails in my freezer right now so really excited!
David Scott Allen
June 9, 2026 at 9:42 pmI think you would love this recipe, Inger. It’s so rich and comforting.
2pots2cook
June 10, 2026 at 12:09 amHeaven! With all domestic grown vegetables, it is just heaven!!!!!
David Scott Allen
June 10, 2026 at 11:05 amIt was, indeed! I love that market!
Sherry M
June 18, 2026 at 2:22 pmthis all sounds so wonderful David. I think hubby and i tried to go to that market many years ago but we got there waaaay too late and it was all shutting down for the day.
sherry