An Homage.
When in Zürich, we were hosted by our friends Pauline and Alex for an exquisite dinner at the two Michelin star Widder Restaurant. The atmosphere was warm, inviting, the room quiet, and the tables well-spaced, making conversation easy. Once we were seated at our table, Chef Stefan Heilemann came out to greet us; he was incredibly gracious and welcoming.
The six-course meal started with a trio of duck appetizers: bao bun, duck liver, and crispy skin (like a taco, but not). Then came an additional amuse gueule of beef tartare (beef from their own ranch) with a Thai salsa and mint. This was followed — but never hurriedly — with Balfegó tuna from Spain and gamba blanca from Portugal. Then the langoustine with white asparagus, peas, and a Béarnaise. Continuing in the seafood mode, our server brought out a beautiful fillet of Brüggli Char in a nage of beetroot, bits of horseradish, topped with Osetra caviar. Alex opted for the sea urchin with Osetra caviar instead of the char. The main course was a Mieral dove with seared duck liver, Périgord truffles, and morels. As is often the case in European meals, the main was followed with a cheese course; ours was creamy foam of Brin d’Amour with speck and lemon thyme.
Then came the sweet part of the meal: rhubarb and wild strawberries with custard, pecans, and champagne. And, as if that weren’t enough, they surprised us with a two-bite lemon cheesecake, before ending with a trio of little jewels: a mini canelé with tonka bean and passion fruit; a small cake of pistachio, marzipan, and plum; and then the specialty of pastry chef André Siedl, his banana split bonbon. (Thanks to Pauline for all these photos!)
Of all these little marvels that arrived on our plates, the one I could not get out of my mind was the amuse gueule of the Tartare de Bœuf. Here is my version, as a first course for two
~ David
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Eha Carr
July 25, 2026 at 4:20 amDavid – methinks you are aware of my ‘weakness’ for degustation meals . . . I would have been delighted to try this. A small matter but I am glad you presented the meal as a totality as far as the photos go . . . the total look is so much easier to understand with one’s eyes travelling dish to dish. Here the variety in colour and form is pronounced and interesting as is your recipe . . . I have always been ‘crazy’ about beef tartare . . . yours is considerably different from my usual modes and just asks to be made . . . thank you 🙂 !
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 7:33 amHe’s — I didn’t know that you enjoyed degustation meals. They are fun and you get to Roy so many more flavors this way. At restaurants that don’t do a tasting menu, I simply order four or five small starters to create my own. Much more fun. This tartare was outstanding and I hope I did the chef proud in my recreation.
Eha Carr
July 25, 2026 at 3:06 pmOh, David . . . I thought I was the ‘only one’ to do that 🙂 ! Thinking back decades we did not have degustation menus, did we, and ordering 3-5 first courses (with a smile) at interesting restaurants did not always make me ‘popular’ with husbands and beaus! But – main courses can oft be ‘boring’ in comparison . . . 🙂 !
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 10:45 pmI agree one hundred percent! Main courses are often dull in comparison to the starters. Waiters used to think I trying to save money until I proved to them I’d spend almost double the money on my starters! It will always be my favorite way to dine!
Mad Dog
July 25, 2026 at 5:47 amThat looks like a stunning meal at the Widder Restaurant. Your Tartare de Bœuf sounds amazing – what a fabulous sauce too! I will have to make this!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 7:34 amThanks, Mad Dog — it was an amazing meal. The sauce on the tartare really made it stand out from all the others I have had in my life.
Barb
July 25, 2026 at 6:26 amWhat a fabulous feast! I’m not sure I could eat that much food, but I would definitely try! Each course looks exquisite! The Tartare de Boeuf will bring back memories every time you make it. Are you going to recreate any of the other dishes?
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 7:35 amI was surprised, Barb — each portion was so small that I had just the right amount of food by the end of the evening. I may try to recreate the dove dish using quail. Stay tuned!
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
July 25, 2026 at 8:04 amLike some people, I can’t get my head around eating raw meat, however the other dishes look fantastic; giving me ideas for new recipes to try. It’s hard to believe that all that food was for one person! (Regarding the French, I’m familiar with the term ‘amuse bouche’ but not ‘amuse gueule’; learning new things all the time)!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 8:42 amIt’s funny, Fran — I know people who will happily eat beef carpaccio but not tartare. It makes e laugh. Before going, I always used «amuse bouche» but «amuse gueule» seems to be used more these days.
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
July 25, 2026 at 1:21 pmI always associate the word “gueule” with the phrase “ferme ta gueule” (shut your mouth). Anyway, just getting a bit ‘nit-picky’ here (ha ha)!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 1:24 pmThat’s how I knew the word, too. It was not — and still is not — nice to say «ferme ta gueule.» But I will trust the restaurant when they use amuse gueule, as well as my friends! 🙂
angiesrecipes
July 25, 2026 at 10:35 amI am all for raw beef! But that six-course meal looks to die for too :-))
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 12:30 pmThanks, Angie — it was a stunning meal!
Mimi Rippee
July 25, 2026 at 2:52 pmThat “jus” sounds wonderful!!! And it’s so pretty.
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 10:46 pmIt works so well. Mimi — like a Thai beef salad.
Ronit Penso
July 25, 2026 at 6:31 pmThis is a great take on traditional beef tartare. No wonder you wanted to recreate the dish, with its’ unique seasoning.
The rest of the menu looks amazing as well! 🙂
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 10:43 pmEverything was perfect that evening, Ronit! The meal was magical.
FEL!X
July 25, 2026 at 6:38 pmBeefsteak tatar (original without «r»!) I appreciate very much and the idea to combine it with Thai flavours can really inspire me! Cutting the meat up yourself with a knife is an absolute must.
Unfortunately, I don’t dare eat raw beef here in Thailand!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 10:41 pmTonight, I had a friend ask me why I didn’t chop it in the food processor! I told him hand chopped is the only way. Sorry you can’t get the beef there — the Thai flavors work so well with beef! While this dish may have started with the Tatars, what we eat is more similar to the Escoffier version.
Valentina
July 26, 2026 at 7:41 pmI agree with you and Eha about starters. 🙂 Can I just say, what a meal!? That must have been so much fun! Your Tartare de Boeuf is absolutely stunning. I just love how vibrant the colors are on the plate – both the food and plate together are a knockout. ~Valentina
P.S. Love that you use the cilantro stems!
David Scott Allen
July 28, 2026 at 12:30 pmIt is funny, Valentina — the size of starters has gotten much bigger over the year. I used to be able ot order 4 or 5, but now I can only manage three. As for the cilantro — there is so much flavor in the stems and I try to use them as much as possible.
Christina
July 26, 2026 at 8:27 pmWhat a gorgeous meal! Sounds like everything from start to finish was absolutely outstanding! My standout is of course the rhubarb and wild strawberry dessert! Oh you lucky thing! I can only imagine how good those flavors were in Zurich!
Thanks for sharing with us, David!
David Scott Allen
July 28, 2026 at 12:28 pmYou do have the most passionate love of rhubarb, Christina!! The whole meal was amazing.
Frank | Memorie di Angelina
July 27, 2026 at 1:21 pmWhat a meal! It’s one that I’m sure you’ll be remembering for a very long time. I must say you have very good taste in friends! And the tartare? That sounds amazing. I love tartare even if sadly I’m the only one I know who does so I only get to eat it out once in a while.
David Scott Allen
July 28, 2026 at 12:27 pmI am sorry you won’t get to try this tartare, Frank — with you love of traditional steak tartare and Thai food, this would definitely tickle your taste buds.
Pauline & Alex
July 27, 2026 at 10:25 pmWe humans are certainly not the only species that connect through food. Yet there is something uniquely human about the way we gather, celebrate, and deepen our bonds around a great meal. Friendship seems somehow amplified by the pleasure of wonderful food and exceptional wine shared in the right setting.
David’s mastery, both in creating and appreciating great food, is in a class of its own. Your poetic ability to transform meals into lasting memories, whether through vivid descriptions or beautiful photography, feels almost superhuman, unequalled even by the madeleine de Proust!
We will always cherish those moments shared with You and Mark, and we are already looking forward to the next memorable meal with both of you – or simply by returning to the Widder to awaken these wonderful memories – the anticipation is real.
Fondly,
Pauline & Alex
David Scott Allen
July 28, 2026 at 12:26 pmPauline and Alex _ this is by farm the kindest and sweetest comment I have ever received. It ws such a pleasure to share this incredible meal with you both, adn we definitely look forward to seeing you again soon. Love from David and mark
Ben | Havocinthekitchen
August 2, 2026 at 4:01 pmWhat an intriguing take on beef tartare, David! I’ve never thought of pairing Thai flavours with it, but it sounds fresh, vibrant, and absolutely delicious.
David Scott Allen
August 3, 2026 at 4:35 pmThanks, Ben — I love recreating things made by great chefs. Not only does it inspire these specific dishes but it gives me great ideas for other things!
2pots2cook
August 6, 2026 at 4:20 am>You are so lucky having friends like these….
David Scott Allen
August 12, 2026 at 3:21 pmOh, I am indeed, Davorka!
Raymund
August 6, 2026 at 6:42 pmThs is such a fun twist on a classic that I’m already tempted to try it myself.
David Scott Allen
August 12, 2026 at 3:21 pmI would love it if you tried it Raymund — it would be great to hear what you think.
Jeff the Chef
August 12, 2026 at 8:21 pmThat sounds like a life changing meal!
David Scott Allen
August 12, 2026 at 11:01 pmIt certainly changed the way I think about flavor combinations and presentation!