An Homage.
When in Zürich, we were hosted by our friends Pauline and Alex for an exquisite dinner at the two Michelin star Widder Restaurant. The atmosphere was warm, inviting, the room quiet, and the tables well-spaced, making conversation easy. Once we were seated at our table, Chef Stefan Heilemann came out to greet us; he was incredibly gracious and welcoming.
The six-course meal started with a trio of duck appetizers: bao bun, duck liver, and crispy skin (like a taco, but not). Then came an additional amuse gueule of beef tartare (beef from their own ranch) with a Thai salsa and mint. This was followed — but never hurriedly — with Balfegó tuna from Spain and gamba blanca from Portugal. Then the langoustine with white asparagus, peas, and a Béarnaise. Continuing in the seafood mode, our server brought out a beautiful fillet of Brüggli Char in a nage of beetroot, bits of horseradish, topped with Osetra caviar. Alex opted for the sea urchin with Osetra caviar instead of the char. The main course was a Mieral dove with seared duck liver, Périgord truffles, and morels. As is often the case in European meals, the main was followed with a cheese course; ours was creamy foam of Brin d’Amour with speck and lemon thyme.
Then came the sweet part of the meal: rhubarb and wild strawberries with custard, pecans, and champagne. And, as if that weren’t enough, they surprised us with a two-bite lemon cheesecake, before ending with a trio of little jewels: a mini canelé with tonka bean and passion fruit; a small cake of pistachio, marzipan, and plum; and then the specialty of pastry chef André Siedl, his banana split bonbon. (Thanks to Pauline for all these photos!)
Of all these little marvels that arrived on our plates, the one I could not get out of my mind was the amuse gueule of the Tartare de Bœuf. Here is my version, as a first course for two
~ David
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Eha Carr
July 25, 2026 at 4:20 amDavid – methinks you are aware of my ‘weakness’ for degustation meals . . . I would have been delighted to try this. A small matter but I am glad you presented the meal as a totality as far as the photos go . . . the total look is so much easier to understand with one’s eyes travelling dish to dish. Here the variety in colour and form is pronounced and interesting as is your recipe . . . I have always been ‘crazy’ about beef tartare . . . yours is considerably different from my usual modes and just asks to be made . . . thank you 🙂 !
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 7:33 amHe’s — I didn’t know that you enjoyed degustation meals. They are fun and you get to Roy so many more flavors this way. At restaurants that don’t do a tasting menu, I simply order four or five small starters to create my own. Much more fun. This tartare was outstanding and I hope I did the chef proud in my recreation.
Mad Dog
July 25, 2026 at 5:47 amThat looks like a stunning meal at the Widder Restaurant. Your Tartare de Bœuf sounds amazing – what a fabulous sauce too! I will have to make this!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 7:34 amThanks, Mad Dog — it was an amazing meal. The sauce on the tartare really made it stand out from all the others I have had in my life.
Barb
July 25, 2026 at 6:26 amWhat a fabulous feast! I’m not sure I could eat that much food, but I would definitely try! Each course looks exquisite! The Tartare de Boeuf will bring back memories every time you make it. Are you going to recreate any of the other dishes?
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 7:35 amI was surprised, Barb — each portion was so small that I had just the right amount of food by the end of the evening. I may try to recreate the dove dish using quail. Stay tuned!
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
July 25, 2026 at 8:04 amLike some people, I can’t get my head around eating raw meat, however the other dishes look fantastic; giving me ideas for new recipes to try. It’s hard to believe that all that food was for one person! (Regarding the French, I’m familiar with the term ‘amuse bouche’ but not ‘amuse gueule’; learning new things all the time)!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 8:42 amIt’s funny, Fran — I know people who will happily eat beef carpaccio but not tartare. It makes e laugh. Before going, I always used «amuse bouche» but «amuse gueule» seems to be used more these days.
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
July 25, 2026 at 1:21 pmI always associate the word “gueule” with the phrase “ferme ta gueule” (shut your mouth). Anyway, just getting a bit ‘nit-picky’ here (ha ha)!
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 1:24 pmThat’s how I knew the word, too. It was not — and still is not — nice to say «ferme ta gueule.» But I will trust the restaurant when they use amuse gueule, as well as my friends! 🙂
angiesrecipes
July 25, 2026 at 10:35 amI am all for raw beef! But that six-course meal looks to die for too :-))
David Scott Allen
July 25, 2026 at 12:30 pmThanks, Angie — it was a stunning meal!
Mimi Rippee
July 25, 2026 at 2:52 pmThat “jus” sounds wonderful!!! And it’s so pretty.