Last Saturday was the feast of San Marco, and we wanted to do something special. As this is Markipedia’s name day, and Saint Mark is the patron saint of Venice, my thoughts turned to Venetian culinary traditions. In Venice, the local tradition for Saint Mark’s day is risi e bisi (rice and peas). We definitely wanted to have the rice, but were not particularly in the mood for peas, as we’ve been having a lot lately. But, before we get to the recipe, let’s go back seven years to our two-week trip to Venice.
On a whim, as we were preparing for the trip, I checked the university alumni directory for any Venetian denizens. I found only two: Roque and Gabriella, and they are married to one another. I reached out via email, mentioned that I worked with alumni from the university, and suggested we meet. Roque agreed to meet us on our first morning for coffee. Mind you, my intention was not to discuss work, but to learn about life in Venice from a Venetian.
Within minutes of meeting, we discovered that our mutual passion was food. (You knew that was coming…) After coffee and a lot of excited culinary conversation, Roque suggested I meet him early the next morning at the foot of the Rialto Bridge for a tour of the market.
The next morning, upon meeting, our first order of business was stopping at All’Arco for a breakfast sandwich and an “ombre.” Following our snack, we plunged into the extensive market maze where he introduced me to his green grocer, fishmonger, cheese purveyor, and butcher. I didn’t buy anything at the time… It was just reconnaissance mission.
I fetched Mark from the apartment (he was finally awake), and we headed back to the market to do some damage. We bought vegetables, two types of sausages, meats, several cheeses, and then finished our shopping spree at the fish market. There is nothing I have ever seen that equals the fish market in Venice. Under red canvas awnings and gothic arches are many vendors with the most beautiful fresh fish and seafood I have ever seen.
At a small shop nearby, I bought some squid ink to bring back to Tucson in order to make pasta al nero di seppia. I’ve made it a couple times for the blog — here with tuna and here with crab. Both are wonderful. However, I have never had the chance to make squid ink risotto.
We saw Roque and Gabriella several times during our two-week stay. They invited us to their home for dinner on our last evening in Venice. Along with their daughter Stephanie, we feasted on Venetian classics — one of them was Roque’s recipe for squid ink risotto. It was sublime.
Once home in Tucson, Roque was kind enough to send me his instructions on how to make Risotto al Nero di Seppia at home. When making risotto, there are generally four parts: brodo, soffritto, riso, condimenti (broth, vegetables for frying, rice, and “add ins”). Roque’s recipe starts with the condimenti — and, in addition to being the key ingredients of our risotto, it can also be used as a topping for pasta or white polenta. It is versatile to say the least.
In preparation for this post, the question I have received most from friends is, “What does squid ink taste like? Is it really fishy? Is it salty?” Squid ink adds a very pleasant briny quality to the dish — it tastes lightly of salt and the sea but not fishy. The two ingredients that make this particular risotto Venetian are crushed tomatoes and lemon zest. It’s a small amount of each, but I can’t impress enough what a difference each makes in the final dish.
I paired this truly special dish with a very unique Côtes de Provence rosé: a 2019 Château Sainte Roseline Lampe de Méduse Cru Classé. This is not a typical Provence rosé but it went beautifully with the briny, seductive squid ink risotto. To read more about the pairing, head over to the Provence WineZine.
Buon appetito!
~ David
Developed and maintained by Inspiratech LLC.
Design by Themeshift.
Susan Manfull
May 2, 2020 at 7:46 amI (still) have never cooked with calamari— it intimates me! Maybe this is a good place to start as the Risotto sounds soooo good! It would be lovely to have a bit of Venice at the table these days, too!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:43 pmDon’t be intimidated, Susan! You will love this. I wonder if Sanders’ carries the squid ink?
Fran @ G'day Souffle'
May 2, 2020 at 7:50 amOh, that fish market in Venice sounds great- I would be in Seventh Heaven if I could go there! Most seafood stores near me in San Diego already have the fish de-boned and be-headed so they don’t look much like real fish any more. I have always steered clear of squid ink for some reason- maybe I should go out of my comfort zone and try it!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:44 pmYou would love the markets in Venice, Fran. I agree… The fish markets here are nothing compared to what we find there. I hope that my post has convinced you not to be afraid of squid ink!
John / Kitchen Riffs
May 2, 2020 at 9:20 amVenice is wonderful! I’ve only been there for a couple of days total, and I’d love to go back. Although I frequently visit markets when we travel, I didn’t visit the Venice market. I need to rectify that! I’d particularly like to see the fish — Venice is seafood heaven. Anyway, although I’ve cooked with pasta made with squid ink, I’ve never used the ink itself. One of those things I really need to try, particularly now that I have this wonderful looking recipe. Thanks!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:44 pmJohn, I can’t imagine only having been to Venice for a couple of days. It would’ve driven me crazy! Two weeks wasn’t even close to enough for me. I hope you get to try the squid ink… It’s really quite wonderful, and I especially love it for the risotto and homemade pasta.
2pots2cook
May 2, 2020 at 9:24 amIt seems to me you have been Italian in your previous life ! The way you enjoy everything Italian makes us, Mediterraneans, so happy 🙂 Pinned absolutely !Enjoy your week end dear David 🙂
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:47 pmAfter watching the movie “a Fish Called Wanda,“ I have constantly quoted John Cleese when he says “Sono italiano in spirito!” I really do think I must’ve been Italian in a former life. Stay safe and well!
Jeff the Chef
May 2, 2020 at 11:09 amLooks like you had a great visit! What an exotic looking risotto!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:48 pmIt was a great trip, Jeff — and I hope to get back soon. I love that what is exotic to us is quotidian to others.
Gerlinde
May 2, 2020 at 11:32 amI love Venice and the Veneto, so many good memories . The only thing I regret is that I didn’t go a wedding I was invited to a couple of years ago. Thanks for sharing David. I long for the good old times.
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:49 pmI would someday love to attend a wedding in Italy. In Venice would even be better… I don’t blame you for regretting not being able to go. Take care, Gerlinde!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
May 2, 2020 at 11:36 amYour risotto looks great and would make any Venetian proud. The first thing my husband ordered on our first visit to Venice was pasta al nero di seppia. I will eat a bite or two but not much more. Not because I don’t like the taste…it is very good but it has a tendency to stain my teeth just like the wood spoon you mentioned. 😀
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:50 pmI had never even thought about it staining teeth! A good thing to be aware of when having guests, Karen. Thanks for your kind comment — I Hope Roque sees it and is happy with my results!
sippitysup
May 2, 2020 at 1:03 pmTo me, this dish is sooo Croatian. I’ve had some version of it along the Dalmatian coastline many times. Which makes sense because much of Croatia was either ruled or influenced by Venice for centuries. GREG
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:52 pmThat makes perfect sense, Greg. I hadn’t thought about it outside of Venice, but being that Croatia was under Venetian rule for so long, and that they share the same ocean, perhaps Venice got the idea from them!
John
May 2, 2020 at 3:08 pmI must agree with Greg. There’s so much in Croatian cuisine that is similar, thanks to Venetian rule that stretched across today’s Dalmatia. We (Croatians) even make riži biži (risi e bisi), which you mentioned early in your post.
This risotto you’ve made is a spitting image of crni rižot, which is one of my all-time favourite dishes. They even do it in Montenegro; yet they seem to put in a lot more squid ink there. I’m definitely must try this particular recipe!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:53 pmThis is so much fun learning about the Croatian side of this. As I said to Greg, maybe Venice got it from you!
Jill Becker
May 2, 2020 at 4:25 pmAs always the photos are stunning and the story so interesting. Enjoy
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:53 pmBut would you eat it, Ms. Becker? 😘 Thanks, as ever, for reading and commenting!
Eha
May 2, 2020 at 5:26 pmSome of the loveliest moments of my life have come about in Venice. For both my daughters it also is the most magical place in the world since their early childhood . . . both managed to get their future husbands to propose on its waterways . . . make a lot of risotto, could eat calamari most days of the week, use a fair amount of squid ink . . . have I put the three together . . . not until now, but thanks to you surely shall . . . thank you . . . be well . . .
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:55 pmHow lovely to hear your memories of Venice, and to know of your daughters’ engagements. That is supremely romantic! I do hope you make this sometime, and please feel free to share any good recipes that use squid ink!
Christina Conte
May 2, 2020 at 5:43 pmI loved the fish market in Venice and got so excited when I saw the pesce di San Pietro that we’d eaten at Harry’s Bar that I called my mother over to see it and the next thing we knew, we’d lost our tour guide! It was a comedy of errors after that, and we missed a part of the tour, but did end up with the group at the end! At least there’s a story to tell!
I ordered and enjoyed the squid ink risotto at Harry’s Bar, too, and I LOVED it! First time trying it! Love that you’re sharing Roque’s authentic Venetian recipe! Let’s hope we can travel again and make more food memories very soon!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 3, 2020 at 4:56 pmOh, Christina, what a wonderful place to get lost without your guide! I can’t imagine being lost any place better… I’m glad you tried the risotto at Harry’s Bar, and I hope you get to try Roque’s recipe, as well.
Wanda Porter
May 3, 2020 at 1:43 pmWonderful memories of Venice. We’ve spent a total of 184 days in Venice over the last 15 years. We stay in an apartment near the Rialto Market and go there to shop almost daily. We were scheduled to be in Venice for two weeks in April – sadly. COVID19 forced us to cancel that trip. We hope to return in the fall to La Serenissima.
David Scott Allen
May 3, 2020 at 4:39 pmWanda — your life sounds like one of my best dreams! That many days in Venice may just be enough… I’m sorry your trip the spring was canceled, but I hope you make it back soon. The apartment we rented was not terribly far from the Rialto Bridge… It was closer to Santa Maria dei Miracoli. I cannot wait to go back… thanks so much for stopping by and leaving a comment! Stay safe and healthy.
priya
May 4, 2020 at 3:20 pmSounds like you had an amazing day. risotto looks amazing david.
Cocoa & Lavender
May 5, 2020 at 7:19 amThanks so much, Priya! These days we try to celebrate everything we can!
Valentina
May 5, 2020 at 4:37 pmI love Venice. For me it’s been much longer than 7 years, and I can’t wait to make it back one day with my family. What great photos, memories and food! This dish is beautiful! 🙂 ~Valentina
Cocoa & Lavender
May 9, 2020 at 10:07 amThanks, Valentina! It is such a special place… we can’t wait to go back.
Jean | Delightful Repast
May 7, 2020 at 7:26 amDavid, how wonderful to have had a resident who happened to share your interest in food to show you Venice. And to have a recipe to stir up those memories! I agree, don’t leave out the lemon zest and crushed tomatoes, just because it’s a small amount. AND don’t increase the amounts, thinking if a little is good a lot would be better. I love that you appreciate subtlety!
Cocoa & Lavender
May 9, 2020 at 10:09 amOne thing that I have learned, Jean, is the American obsession that “more is always better” is so false. We all need to pay attention to traditional foodways and respect that knowledge.
Inger @ Art of Natural Living
May 7, 2020 at 11:12 amIsn’t it nice to be able to pull travels out of one’s past now? I wish I hadn’t gotten wriggling stuck in my head on Instagram though. That is just hard to shake…
Cocoa & Lavender
May 9, 2020 at 10:10 amSo funny, Inger — the wriggling is very funny! It’s delicious and I hope you try it!
Ron
May 15, 2020 at 5:51 amA wonderful post and a dish I would love to taste. I’ve filed this away for a later cook when things normalize and we can go to a proper market for the ingredients. Man, I’m with you guys when it comes to peas…
We’ve not been to Venice, but it’s on our bucket list. Thanks for a great post.
David Scott Allen
May 17, 2020 at 7:52 amLet’s hope things normalize soon, Ron, but I think we are in for a long haul. I hope you get to make this dish — it is really special.
Vrishen Kumar
June 2, 2020 at 3:38 amVery Helpful Article