An Unexpected Jewel.
I think Tours is going to take at least two posts. How can I be brief about a small city that captured our hearts?
When we travel, the apartments we rent make a huge difference in our experience. The one we found in Tours was situated on an historic plaza — Place de Châteauneuf — in a building with a 13th century core and later French doors and a balcony overlooking the lovely square. Our apartment was up on the first floor (American 2nd floor) in the shorter of the two limestone buildings in the first photo. Our host, Emmanuelle, gifted us with a very nice bottle of crémant (sparkling wine) and madeleines, which we enjoyed our first evening. Coming home to this space was a pleasure; we would sit on the balcony, have our apéro, and take in the view, whether it was people watching or historic architecture.
Why Tours? It was pretty much a dart throw. I looked on the map at cities in the Loire Valley that seemed to have good rail service — whence we could easily hop on trains to visit the châteaux of the Loire Valley. (Note: we loved Tours so much that we never hopped any trains elsewhere!). On the maps app, I saw some photos of Place Plumereau and that was all it took for me to say; That’s our city. Place Plumereau filled with people every afternoon and evening, which added to its charm. The city is historic, elegant, and lively, but not over-touristy. In fact, we didn’t hear any American English spoken at all — just one British couple – so I got to exercise my French language skills some more. Our first two days in Tours were national holidays (May 8 to mark victory in World War II, and May 9, Ascension Day) so the town was particularly lively for that long weekend.
While the photos of Place Plumerau caught my attention at first, I was truly enthralled by so many of the buildings and streets throughout Tours that are built in the medieval style, using timbers with bricks filling in the space in between. These buildings were mixed in with the traditional limestone buildings characteristic of the region. Many were built in the 16th and 17th centuries, and we found the two oldest houses in the city (15th and 16th centuries) in one neighborhood – shown in the last two photos. As you can see, it is a very elegant city with the main Beaux Arts boulevard lined with trees on either side of the Hôtel de Ville. Sadly, a chunk of the historic center of Tours was destroyed in World War II, but rebuilt in the same scale and ivory colors, so the modern detailing has a seamless feel with the original.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Tours (Fine Arts Museum) is housed in what used to be the archbishop’s palace. It’s an elegant eighteenth-century building, with beautiful gardens — both formal and informal — with many benches in the shade for sitting to read, cogitate, or dream. There is even a kiosk at which you can purchase a snack and beverage to enjoy at the café tables in a woodsy corner of the garden. When Mark and I visit an art museum, we both love to focus on the details in a painting, though we appreciate the whole of the works. Below, I share with you garden views, some painting details, and a few full paintings including a Rembrandt of the Flight into Egypt, a detail from a Delacroix showing Arab Comedians or Jesters in Morocco, a 1787 view of the city by Demachy, the cathedral, a portrait of Sarah Bernhardt, plus a Mona Lisa copy with Mona Markipdeia in real life.
The Musée du Compagnonnage is a fascinating museum that showcases the work of tradesmen (and women???) whose work is seen throughout France. A type of journeymen’s union existed in France for these artisans which included saddlers, carpenters, plasterers, leather workers, stained glass artists, stone carvers, iron workers, ceramicists, and even culinary artists (the final photo is a châtea made entirely of pasta). To see the works they created is amazing. The museum has a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation.
One afternoon, we wandered to the western end of the city to visit Le Jardin Botanique de Tours — the citiy’s oldest botanical garden founded in early 1840s. It was lovely way to pass an afternoon. The spring gardens were in full bloom, and the park-like setting was quite romantic. And, of course, they had kangaroos wallabies (with little ones in their pouches)! They were part of a small zoo in the middle of the gardens, which also had peacocks, goats, ducks, and a few other animals and birds. It was fun to see multiple generations enjoying the gardens and zoo. I can easily imagine going back with a book to sit on a bench in the shade and while away the day.
While the street art scene is nothing like we saw in Paris, there were several that struck my eye, including two that mimic the digital tile artist known as Invader. They are both very clever, giving a visual representation of the street names where I found them.
Next up? A few more churches, a fun way to an evening in Tours, and — finally — a couple of food photos!
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Ginny Healy
July 25, 2024 at 4:47 amYou write so beautifully and the pictures add to the experience of reading your description of Tours. It sounds like you and Mark found a very special place.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 25, 2024 at 7:54 amThank you so much, Ginny — I am glad you enjoyed this so much. I will have one more post on Tours and then no more till the next trip!
Mad Dog
July 25, 2024 at 6:35 amThat’s a fabulous holiday and great pictures yet again!
They say there are many copies of the Mona Lisa, some possibly painted by Leonardo himself.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 25, 2024 at 7:56 amThanks, Mad Dog. It is really fun to relive our days by putting together these posts. This particular Mona Lisa was not painted by DaVinci but by a Tourangeu. It matters not— it was fun to see with our a crowd!
Donn Poll
July 25, 2024 at 7:01 amAll magnificent images, but none better that Mark with a class of crisp white! Thanks.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 25, 2024 at 7:56 amThanks, Donn — we enjoyed our little balcony every evening. The people watching was stellar!
Marie Lopez
July 25, 2024 at 7:27 amReading … I was transported…. Immersed even….in this beautiful and historic place….like walking the streets of Tours myself. Thank you for sharing!
Cocoa & Lavender
July 25, 2024 at 7:57 amThank you so much, Marie! I know you would enjoy being there — it’s such a special city.
Carolyn Niethammer
July 25, 2024 at 7:41 amWhat a lovely post. I enjoyed it immensely.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 25, 2024 at 7:58 amThank you Carolyn. I a, so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Barb
July 25, 2024 at 8:02 amYou have captured the essence of this enchanting city perfectly! Thanks for sharing! I’m so glad you and Mark had such an incredible vacation.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 25, 2024 at 9:16 amThanks, Barb — we did have a wonderful time. I think we always do! I’m so glad you enjoyed this!
Inger
July 27, 2024 at 3:01 pmI am watching the Olympics–which is giving me the travel bug again. So I knew I had to pop right over here and check out your visit to Tours. It looks like you considered it a fine place to stay without a car–which I like, since I’m not quite ready for that yet. Good tip on the lack of English–Paris and Strasbourg were so easy, but I’ll start brushing up on my French now! Amazing photos as usual!
Cocoa & Lavender
July 28, 2024 at 7:55 amI’m glad you enjoyed the tour, Inger!
sherry
July 27, 2024 at 5:37 pmThat kangaroo is a wallaby I’m pretty sure 🙂 What a gorgeous city – and those buildings!! And the art and the flowers – and that lovely photo of you both. It all looks wonderful David. I don’t think I’ll do a big overseas trip again (I mean, it’s 24 hours flight at least!) so it was lovely to see your trip here!
cheers
sherry
Cocoa & Lavender
July 28, 2024 at 11:45 amThank you Sherry! There were no labels at the zoo so we just assumed kangaroos. I’ll change that in the post!
So glad I was able to take you on a tour! 24 hours is a long flight. We feel the same about much overseas travel so we are doing it while we can!
Jill W Becker
July 28, 2024 at 3:49 pmCharming….thanks for taking us with you and Mark.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 31, 2024 at 12:47 pmThanks, Jill. There’s one more post that you might enjoy.
angiesrecipes
July 28, 2024 at 10:03 pmThank you for taking us to Loire Valley! Gorgeous photos and you and Mark make such a sweet couple! p.s I am surprised that the museum allowed the visitors to take the pictures.
Cocoa & Lavender
July 31, 2024 at 12:46 pmPictures were allowed in all the museums we visited. There were only a few occasions where certain exhibits were not photographable, but that was rare. I’m glad you like this little town that we visited, Angie, and that maybe you’ll get there someday.
Raymund
July 31, 2024 at 11:02 pmTours truly seems to have won your hearts with its historic charm and vibrant life! Your apartment on Place de Chateauneuf sounds like the perfect base for exploring the city. From the medieval buildings and the elegant Beaux Arts boulevard to the delightful Musee des Beaux-Arts and the fascinating Musee du Compagnonnage, it’s clear Tours offers a rich tapestry of history and culture.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 1, 2024 at 8:18 amTours was an easy city in which to spend a week. And, with that market, I could spend a lot more time there.
Pauline McNee
August 8, 2024 at 7:53 pmBeautiful photos David, and I felt like I was actually there. I haven’t been to Tours, but it’s on my list now if I return to France. Love the medieval buildings, and the gardens look superb. Mona Lisa is looking straight at Mark, as she does, great photo. This place would capture my heart as well.
Cocoa & Lavender
August 10, 2024 at 1:01 pmIt’s a really wonderful city, Pauline — I know you would love it (and its market)! Thanks for taking the time t9 comment — I know you are pretty busy.